RMI Expeditions Blog
Hello again everyone
Today we had a very nice hike to help with our acclimatization on a nearby peak called Pichincha. It is one of the many local peaks that is situated above Quito and is used by many climbers to help adjust to the higher altitude here in Ecuador. We made use of the gondolas to help us gain access to around 13,000 ft then hiked the additional 2,500 ft to the summit. It took our team roughly 3 hours to gain the top after a little scrambling up the final bit to reach our high point thus far. It was a personal high point for a few of us, and the entire team did a fantastic job. After spending a bit of time on the summit and getting are photos we descended all the back to our hotel for a brief nap before dinner.
Everyone is in good spirits and looking forward to tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
On The Map
Posted by: Christina Dale, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 14,000'
Hello -
Our team has officially arrived at Aconcagua Base Camp, Plaza Argentina at 14,000 feet. It was a beautiful day trekking today. Actually, it was our nicest day so far as we lathered up in sunscreen.
Everyone is doing well. Base Camp is quiet. It almost feels like we are the only ones here. Gotta love that! We have set up personal tents and we are now being spoiled with delicious snacks from our Base Camp staff.
Everyone deserves a break so stay tuned to find out what we are up to tomorrow here at Plaza Argentina!
RMI Guides JJ Justman and Christina von Mertens
On The Map
Hola from Ecuador!
After some very long flights and a little bit of sleep the team is doing well. We started our day with a team meeting where we did our usual round of introductions and discussed the game plan for our upcoming adventure.
After the meeting we headed out on the town to explore this beautiful historical city with our tour guide Foulsto. We first headed north to visit the Equator from which Ecuador gets its name, then headed to the older part of town where we visited several old cathedrals, and the colonial town square. Next we headed up to a small hill called La Panacia that over looks this beautiful city before returning to the hotel for a little break.
We wrapped up the day with a quick gear check to make sure everyone has all the gear needed for our climbs. Then it was off to dinner at a nice restaurant where we enjoyed getting to know each other better.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Danny and Team:
Be Calm and Climb On!
Posted by: Rob on 12/10/2015 at 8:36 pm
Go Danny and Team! Wishing you all safety and success.
Posted by: Virginia on 12/10/2015 at 8:22 am
Posted by: JJ Justman, Christina Dale
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 10,550'
Hey, everyone. This is the Aconcagua team with Christina and JJ. Everyone's doing great. We woke up early this morning and began our hike to our second trekking camp, which is Casa de Piedra. We're in a little bit of an argument as to what Casa de Piedra means. I said it means house of Piedra, but they don't believe me. If any of you know what Casa de Piedra means, if you could, just write in the comment section what it means so I can settle this with the team. Other than that, we're doing great. Good walk up to about 11,000 feet. We set up camp. We weren't able to get a look at Aconcagua. It was a little cloudy today, but down here the weather is really nice. So we're just relaxing, acclimatizing, drinking water and just hanging out. Tomorrow we will be trekking to Base Camp of Aconcagua at 14,000 feet. We're hoping for a good day. It was definitely a littler blustery up at Base Camp today. We're glad we're down a little lower. The team says hi to all their family and friends. Stay tuned and we'll touch base from Base Camp tomorrow.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
RMI Guide JJ Justman from Casa de Piedra.
Casa de Piedra means House of Stone; sounds like everyone had a great trip!
Posted by: John Boicourt on 12/10/2015 at 5:35 am
I bet you guys all wish you had your cell phones to ponder over the meaning of “Casa de Piedra”. The internet came of no help after 20 minutes of searching. Only the lonely planet had a snippet saying that it was a beautiful stone….something since the page no longer existed. Perhaps you will find the answer down the road or more like up the road.
Hoping you guys are having a blast and absorbing all the beauties of mother nature.
Ava saw Tibor’s photos and says “That’s my Daddy!” She, myself, and the entire Kelemen Clan is very happy to see these post. We miss you Aps and be safe!
Kisses from California,
Tam & Ava
Posted by: Tam & Ava on 12/9/2015 at 10:01 pm
Hey everyone this is JJ Justman and Christina. We are at Pampa de Las Lenas, our first trekking camp. Today, was one heck of an adventure. Everything's great, the team is great. Everyone's doing well. But the rain fall and the snow accumulation that they had in this area was definitely prevalent today. There was a lot of water that we never encountered here before. Typically you can step across these tiny little creeks and today we had to full on wade through them almost to our waists. it was actually a lot of fun, but it was a big surprise and it took a little longer than normal. We had a great asado dinner with the cowboys here and we're enjoying the first evening out on the trail. It's a beautiful evening. As I mentioned the entire team is doing really great and having a lot of fun. So stay tuned tomorrow. We're going to see what's in store for us. I hope it's not as interesting as it was today. But, if it is, that's why we're here to have a great adventure. So stay tuned, and we'll see how things go tomorrow. Take care from Argentina. Bye.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
RMI Guide JJ Justman checks in after reaching Pampa de Las Lenas at 9,000 ft en route to Aconcagua Base Camp.
On The Map
Posted by: JJ Justman
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
It is that time of year. Here in Ashford, my hometown, it seems like the rain never ends. While that means snow—a lot of snow on Mount Rainier—and I really should be heading on up and take advantage of some amazing backcountry skiing, there are three things I am absolutely passionate about: one is high altitude mountaineering; two is road cycling; and three goes hand in hand with the first two: suffering! If I cannot ride my bike outside, I ride indoors on my trainer. Today, I want to share with you my epic, indoor, high intensity interval-training workout that pushes my anaerobic and aerobic capacity to the max.
To start, many people see my BMC road bike and ask me, “What does BMC stand for?” The Bicycle Manufacturing Company or BMC as it is known is a Swiss company that builds what I believe are the best bikes in the world. However, I refer to my BMC as my Big Mountain Climbing Machine! So here is my “go-to” indoor cycling workout.
Before you get started:
• Make sure you have one, or more realistically, two water bottles.
• Have a towel at hand. You are gonna sweat!
• A television will help. I’ll explain later.
• Obviously your own Big Mountain Climbing Machine, a.k.a. a bicycle and an indoor trainer
This interval session takes about 40 minutes total and is extremely simple, yet so powerful. To help motivate me, I cycle in front of the television on which I play a recorded stage of The Tour de France. That way I can pretend I am beating Philippe Gilbert (one of the pro peloton’s strongest cyclists). Yes, I beat him every time!
The Workout:
Pain Scale: Use a subjective pain scale. 1 is Super Easy; 10 is “oh my gosh, I can’t take this!”
6:00 warm up (Pain Scale: 6): Pedal at an easy and fast cadence
15 Intervals as follows:
1 minute all out interval (Pain Scale: 9 to 10): Place your bike’s gearing so that you are pushing hard and fast!
1 minute rest (Pain Scale: 3): Spin easily and recover.
Do 15 intervals: One minute all out hard and fast followed by one minute of recovery and repeat it 15 times totaling 30 minutes.
4:00 Cool Down (Pain Scale: 3): With all 15 intervals complete, spin easily to move lactic acid out of your tired legs. If you are like me, your last or 15th interval will include that sprint where you beat Philippe Gilbert at the finish line of the Champs Elysees in Paris! Remember: beat him every time!
Fast, hard intervals like these serve to increase your anaerobic threshold. There are times in the mountains, say the fixed line section on Denali above 14,000 feet, where it gets steep and the climbing becomes very demanding at times. Interval workouts like these give me an extra gear to push with before I redline and become anaerobic, which at altitude is unsustainable. Mentally, I need to dig deep and push it to the top where I know the terrain mellows out again and I can relax, and the challenge of pushing through 15 sets of intervals helps me develop that frame of mind as well. Climbing isn’t always easy and at times you have to suffer a little bit before it gets easier. This interval training session not only allows you to push physically harder, but also develops the mental ability to push harder.
Incorporate this workout into your training plan, and you will begin pushing through those physical and mental barriers where you stop saying, “I think I can” to “I KNOW I CAN!” Now go out…or in this case in, and jump on your Big Mountain Climbing Machine and break through those barriers!
_____
JJ Justman is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. He guides expeditions to some of the highest mountains around the World. JJ just arrived in Mendoza to lead an Aconcagua climb (the first of the season), and will head north in May to Denali's West Buttress. Based in Ashford, WA, JJ is a passionate road cyclist and can be seen on his "Big Mountain Climbing Machine" pushing the pace to Paradise and back down.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
See! I told you so! Good news from Aconcagua. Our team member's missing bags are here! We left Mendoza early this afternoon and are now in "The Aspen" of the Mendoza region, named Penitentes.
We had to stop at Estancia de Elias, a great restaurant for their famous empanadas. The team organized our gear while Christina and I packed all the expedition food and gear. We are lucky that we get to have the cowboys help by packing the majority of gear on mules.
However, it's getting late, we are having dinner and one of the team members is eyeing my bacon and cheese stuffed chicken so I need to go before Stephanie takes a bite!
Chau from Argentina,
RMI Guides JJ Justman and Christina von Mertens
A big hooray for the lost luggage fairies! This looks like my idea of climbing, btw. A nice dinner, great company and BACON!
Posted by: Lori Welch Brown on 12/9/2015 at 6:43 am
Everyone looks relaxed and comfortable. Nice way to start. Good luck.
Posted by: Dudley Macfarlane on 12/8/2015 at 4:01 pm
Posted by: JJ Justman, Christina Dale
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Team Aconcagua signing in from Mendoza, Argentina. Our first team has arrived and I have said it many times, the hardest part of the trip is getting started.
We have missing bags and other adversities. However, that's not getting us down or holding us back. After all, we are in Argentina! Its time to relax, enjoy and everything will come together.
So as we solve these roadblocks today, we are reliving a great dinner last night. The team is getting to know one another and its all smiles in the land of sun!
Stay tuned as our adventure unfolds. Will the bags show up? Will JJ actually grow hair only to have it go grey? Which team member will finish the 96-ounce steak challenge?
RMI Guides JJ Justman and Christina von Mertens
See you all at basecamp in a few days!
Posted by: Dave Vee on 12/7/2015 at 9:08 pm
Looks like one heck of a game crew - not sure the mountain is ready for all that energy. Wishing you perfect weather and friendly mules. And save room for pizza at base camp!
Posted by: Peter Rogers on 12/7/2015 at 4:24 pm
We made it!
It was a tough day on Cayambe today to say the least. We managed to hit the trail shortly after midnight as planned. Unfortunately the wind had picked up through the night and made the hour climb to the start of the glacier a chilly one. The team did a great job of keeping themselves protected from the wind as we climbed higher up the mountain. About two hours into the climb the weather slowly turned from clear skies with nice views of the towns below, into a think cloud obscuring nearly everything. Luckily for us the route was still visible and we continued upward. It wasn't long before we were fully enveloped in this wet cloud and had to put on nearly all of our clothing to stay dry. Sadly the weather didn't change for the remainder of the climb, but everyone remained positive and we eventually made it to the summit. There were no beautiful views as we had hoped, and we only stayed at the summit for a few minutes before descending back down the mountain.
All in all it was a great adventure and we are now all smiling after hot showers and a warm meal. We are currently relaxing at the oldest Hacienda in Ecuador, Guachala.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Cayambe crew
On The Map
Way to stick with tough conditions! Prayers for safe travels!
Jen and Dave Porter
Posted by: Jen Porter on 12/6/2015 at 7:57 am
Congrats you guys. Way to go! Can you say hot tub:-)
Posted by: Jim Sheedy on 12/5/2015 at 9:59 am
Hello everyone.
All is well here in Ecuador.
The team got a decent night of sleep here on Cayambe at 15,000'. We got up at 6 am and had a nice breakfast before hiking up to the start of the glacier. We took our time on the hike and enjoyed the beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. It was pretty windy this morning so we kept things brief on our review of glacier travel, then made our way back to the hut for a nice lunch.
Currently the team is taking naps or resting outside in the always warming Ecuadorian sun. Our plan is to have an early dinner tonight and try to get a little more shut-eye before our alpine start. We'll most likely get up at 11pm, have a quick breakfast and coffee, then start climbing around midnight to make use of the cooler temps. If all goes according to plan we hope to summit around 7 am give or take a few.
As per usual, I'm going to have a mountain trivia challenge where one lucky winner will receive a summit phone call from the Satellite phone. So everyone back home keep your phones nearby, you might be receiving a call from a strange number.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Cayambe crew
On The Map
Mark and Shawn,
Hey guys hope your climb was awesome!!! Can’t wait to see some photos and hear a few stories.
All my best,
Jimmy
Posted by: Jimmy Sheedy on 12/4/2015 at 8:37 am
Tom - I’ll use your call as my wake-up alarm…be safe!!
Posted by: Diane on 12/3/2015 at 9:39 pm
Good news - rest and recover for the big work ahead. Glad to hear the group is doing well.
Posted by: Peter Rogers on 12/10/2015 at 8:30 pm
Thanks for info from the Base Camp.Happy to know that you had a great day.
Wish you all the best!
Huge hug to our son,Tibor!
Katie Kelemen from California
Posted by: Katie Kelemen on 12/10/2015 at 3:15 pm
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