Entries By jess matthews

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

June 9, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 20,310'

Saturday, June 9, 2018 1:04 AM The couple weeks of hauling massive loads, sitting through snow storms, sunburns, and eating way too much bacon culminated in that fleeting joy of standing on the summit of Denali this afternoon! Our forecasts have been a bit vague, and sometimes less than confidence inspiring, but we woke up this morning to stellar conditions. It was clear, calm as a koala with a full belly of eucalyptus, and the sun promised to warm things from the forecasted overnight temp of -25. We made our way across the autobahn, glad to see the sun part way across. We ticked off the stretches: zebra rocks, arch deacons tower, the football field, pig hill, and the iconic summit ridge. After 8.5 hours of climbing, we were standing on the summit! It was a warm, beautiful day, with an intense sky of clouds that had built at all levels, making surrounding Alaska incredibly dramatic. After our photos and some time, it was time to head home. We are safely back in camp working on a late dinner. Tomorrow we hope to descend to the land of oxygen and warmer temps, hopefully 11,000' or 7600' camp. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and Team

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Way to go Henry and Caleb! Awesome achievement. Look forward to hearing details when you get back.

Posted by: Charles Platt on 6/11/2018 at 1:53 pm

MANY congratulations to the whole TEAM!! That’s an awesome effort by one and all - look forward to hearing details from Henry and Caleb and seeing lots of pictures. Thank you to the guides!!
Gran/Mom

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 6/11/2018 at 1:30 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to High Camp, 17,000’

June 8, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 17,000'

Friday, June 8, 2018 - 9:27 AM PT It's been a long day so this will be short, but we woke up to calm conditions above and decided to pull the trigger on our move to High Camp at 17,000'. As we got out of camp, it started to snow and had us a bit nervous about conditions on the Buttress, but as we crested the fixed lines, winds were calm. We walked through snow for the whole day, but it stayed warm and calm, and we rolled into 17,000ft, set up camp, and are ready to go for the summit tomorrow should the opportunity present! RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Raj, did you get any summit pics? Hope you didn’t forget to snap a few. -E.

Posted by: erik dietz on 6/9/2018 at 11:53 am

Can’t believe you are so close to the Summit. Scott, here’s to great success, joy beyond belief when you get there and a safe journey down. Congrats to you and all the other climbers and guides.

Glenda Bemis

Posted by: Glenda Bemis on 6/9/2018 at 5:23 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait Out the Weather

June 7, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 6, 2018 - 10:39 PM PT The wolf huffed and puffed, but not on our house today. We woke up early after a short, but intense burst of snow last night, and things looked great. By the time we were done with breakfast though, we were watching huge plumes of snow sail off Denali's upper mountain, which gave us pause. We slowed our roll, and spent the morning watching to see if winds would abate. They did finally, but not until 4 pm or so, way too late for us. We'll try again tomorrow and hope for a different outcome. In the meantime, we are sitting through another intense bout of snow, turning everything white. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

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Rich and Team…congrats to you all for an amazing journey!! We have kept you all in our thoughts and prayers for a successful and safe climb. Can’t wait to hear all about it and see the amazing pictures! Love Mom and Dad

Posted by: Richard Lewis on 6/9/2018 at 6:01 am

I seriously refresh this page every single morning to see the latest updates. I appreciate the blog and am so happy to see everyone is doing well. Wishing for some good weather and that everyone makes it to summit!!!
Steve- I love and miss you so much. Chika, Lloyd and I can’t wait for you to come home.
Xoxoxo
-Cookie

Posted by: Misty on 6/7/2018 at 9:34 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait One more Day at 14,000’, Ready for Move

June 6, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday, June 5, 2018 - 10:46 PM PT So there we were, standing in our cook tent on Mount Denali. This morning was a beautiful morning, and it really doesn't get much better here in Alaska, but tomorrow's forecast had been showing elevated winds for some time. With that stability of forecast, it didn't look like a summit day tomorrow, so we decided to drag our feet at 14,000' for one more day. It was a beautiful rest day, well enjoyed by the whole team. The cook tent was humming this evening with the energy of expectation of a move to 17,000 ft Camp tomorrow. We are all excited and ready, and can't wait to give high fives to RMI's Denali Team led by Mike Walter as we pass them on Denali's West Buttress. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Hope you are taking it all in, warm and comfy. Did you bring smores?

Posted by: Tim on 6/7/2018 at 3:48 am

Good luck tomorrow John and Raj…i know you’ll summit! Anxious to see your push become reality!
MUSH

Posted by: Sue Mamer on 6/6/2018 at 2:13 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team View Winds Moving Up HIgh

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,200'

The winds up high were moving. Snow trails off the mountain into the air. We're snug and cozy at 14K with plenty of food and fuel, So we sit and watch the tails of a mare. This small verse sums up our day. We looked up, saw winds moving snow around up high, and decided to do the prudent thing and sit tight at 14K Camp. We're ready to crack when conditions line up, but until then, some igloo building, heads up, and sunbathing are plenty to keep us happy and occupied. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford and team

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Rich, we are with you all the way!!! Enjoy the climb::)) Love mom and dad

Posted by: Richard Lewis on 6/7/2018 at 4:40 am

Hope you guys get some good weather and a nice clear day. John, Raj & team best of luck and safe return from the top! -waiting for an update…... Erik

Posted by: Erik on 6/6/2018 at 1:52 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

June 3, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Sunday, June 3, 2018 - 7:26 PM PT Our acclimatization at 14,000ft continues, and we took today to rest, get ready for our summit push, and took a stroll out to the Edge of the World, where Genet Basin that 14,000ft Camp sits on falls away almost 7,000 feet to the Northeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. It's the perfect photo opportunity, and our team took advantage. Our focus shifts up now, and if the weather looks good in the morning, we'll make our move to 17,000' Camp and keep moving towards the summit! RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Magnus and Team!
Following with interest.
Best of luck with the summit attempt.
Johan w family

Posted by: Johan Blechert on 6/5/2018 at 2:00 am

Wishing the team and guides a safe climb and good weather. Can’t wait to see the pics Magnus - all the best!! Stay focused, warm and motivated….

Posted by: Adelle on 6/5/2018 at 12:05 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make a Run up the Fixed Lines

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 6:56 pm PT We decided that the perfect weather this morning demanded that we go take a run up the fixed lines to check them out, and finally gain the West Buttress. We're sitting through a spell of fantastic weather, warm, calm, and sunny, and the views back over camp were stunning. The fixed lines are often a point of uncertainty, nervousness, and apprehension, right up until we clip in to them and everyone realizes that's it's just the same old climbing that we are all used to. Everyone did a fantastic job and we cruised to the top, took a bit to enjoy the views and breathe some thin air, then headed back down to camp for an afternoon siesta. Tomorrow we'll take one more rest day before we look to make our move to 17K Camp and get our summit push underway. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

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Hey Rich and all your teammates…great pictures have been coming our way and we are so pleased you all have had such great weather. Can’t wait to see more!!! Love mom and dad

Posted by: Richard lewis on 6/3/2018 at 2:12 pm

Thinking of you all every day and enjoying these updates! Happy Birthday yesterday to Henry - love to him and Caleb from Gran/Mom (and of course to the rest of the group!)

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 6/3/2018 at 8:17 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 10:30 PM PT We're falling into the rhythm of Denali. After a big day yesterday, it seemed appropriate to take a rest day and avail ourselves of the comforts of 14,000' Camp. It was a stellar, beautiful day and we rested for most, taking a brief reprieve to practice and train for the fixed lines tomorrow. We'll take our first spin on those and everyone is excited to get on the West Buttress and some exciting terrain! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Happy Birthday to your mate on the mountain!

Rich hope all is going well! Can’t wait to hear all about your trip when you get back home

Posted by: Susie and the kids on 6/2/2018 at 7:51 pm

Happy birthday to Hank Huntington! -Thomas

Posted by: Thomas Huntington on 6/2/2018 at 11:38 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 1, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 12:00 AM PT Basically today could be summed up as everything went exactly as planned. It was incredibly calm this morning with a thin cloud hanging across the Polo Field, that suggested things would get warm. We rocked out of camp, and just kept rolling until we walked into 14,000' Camp around 5.30 to see our friends on Mike Walter's team. We set up camp nearby, a compound of sorts, and now we're diving into sleeping bags, hurried there by the chill air of 14,000' and the sudden departure of the sun behind a ridge. Tomorrow we plan to rest. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Happy Birthday Henry Huntington! You make it harder and harder for me to wish you a happy birthday, but as you learned long ago, I will track you to the ends of the Earth (and pay $6.00/min—which is $15.75 today) just to wish you a happy birthday! (OK, it was yesterday - but there is the surprise!)—Michael

Posted by: Michael Goldstein on 6/3/2018 at 6:31 pm

Happy birthday Henry. Best wishes for a smooth climb.

Posted by: Matthew burek on 6/2/2018 at 12:26 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take Full Rest Day at 11,000’ Camp

May 31, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 11,200'

Wednesday, May 30, 2018 - 10:53 PM PT After yesterday's big effort, it took some snow and evidence of wind at Windy Corner to decide to take a full chill day at our 11,000' Camp today. Food, movies, books, and naps filled the time, and left little room for anything else. We are feeling good about a move to 14,000 ft Camp tomorrow, and after today, everyone is excited for a change in scenery. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Rich aka dad,

You’re almost there! Keep it up. Been enjoying watching the blog and your climb. Love you and can’t wait to hear all about it!!

Posted by: Eleni Lewis on 6/5/2018 at 6:13 am

Way to go Rich and team-have a good rest and safe ascent!

Posted by: Keith Salzman on 6/1/2018 at 4:53 pm

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Entries By jess matthews

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to High Camp, 17,000’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait Out the Weather

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait One more Day at 14,000’, Ready for Move

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team View Winds Moving Up HIgh

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make a Run up the Fixed Lines

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make Move to 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take Full Rest Day at 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

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