Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Wednesday, June 28, 2023 - 9:41 pm PT

We celebrated Tibor's birthday with a storm day and a no-bake cheesecake.  Familiar weather to us, clouds and snow with winds aloft kept us confined to 14,000ft Camp. We slept, we ate, we dug snow and cut snow blocks. We talked and we read... we passed time.  Looking forward to going climbing again when the storm quits.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz June 23 - 28, 2023 checked in this morning from the summit crater.  After two days of training at Rainier BaseCamp and Paradise the team headed onto the mountain.  With several days to train and ascend, the team launched their summit attempt this morning, reaching the crater before 7 am.  After enjoying some time on top, the team is now on their descent. RMI Guide Mike Haugen reported a beautiful day with light winds.  The team will return to Paradise later this afternoon and be transferred back to Rainier BaseCamp to complete their program.

Nice work team!

Tuesday, June 28, 2023 - 9:28 pm PT

We set out on our quest to get a load of supplies onto the West Buttress but the weather deteriorated steadily as we climbed. At 15,400 ft we decided to turn. We set a few personal altitude records, but it was just short of the fixed rope section we had been hoping to climb today. We returned to camp in light snowfall. The afternoon became a quiet napping contest in the tents. We'll try again when we get a break in the storm.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Tuesday, June 27, 2023 - 8:25 am PT

The morning started out cold, crisp, and clear. Excitement was in the air - today we were climbing.

We ascended the steep snow up to 15,700. For some, each step was a new highest altitude ever climbed, while for others the thin air was all too familiar. Looking up, we could see the two ropes poking out of a steep slope of blue ice and wind blown snow. Looking down, through the clouds that had rolled in, glimpses of our camp could be seen far below. One by one, we attached ourselves to the fixed lines with ascenders. Initially cautious and unsteady, we soon found our footing and got into the groove - one duck step after the other. Nearing the top, the wind had picked up, and it was decided around 16,100 to descend back to camp - our mission of acclimatizing and experiencing the fixed ropes accomplished. Heading down the lines was exhilarating; facing downhill with one arm ensnared around the rope, we leaned forward and let gravity do the work. Relaxing in camp the rest of the day, we all felt prepared and ready - hopefully awaiting our chance to climb higher in the coming days.

RMI Climber Alex Smith

Monday, June 26, 2023 - 10:47 pm PT

We continue to wait and be patient as less then ideal weather hangs onto Denali.  Another breakfast of bagels and locks was well received by the team and has helped to keep spirits high.  Waiting and being patient is an often overlooked skill necessary for expeditionary climbing. Our team is leaning wholeheartedly into this.  After more rest the afternoon was filled with fixed line training In preparation for our continued ascent.  Hopes are high for an opportunity to carry and climb above the fixed lines.

RMI Guide Seth Burns

Monday, June 26, 2023 - 9:44 pm PT

As expected, the weather was still a little "off" today, with lots of cloud and some wind up high, but it was definitely improving. We took it easy this morning but got in a training session in the afternoon, reviewing techniques we hope to employ tomorrow when we go for a carry, attempting to put supplies at 16,200 ft. This evening, some of the high cloud finally cleared out and the team got to see mountains Hunter and Foraker along with a magnificent view straight up at Denali. 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Sunday, June 25, 2023 - 10:07 pm PT

Storm day at 14k.  Snow and cloud all over camp and thankfully just an odd gust of wind every now and then. But all day long we could hear the wind ripping across the ridges up high, sounding like Niagara Falls. We ate long slow meals, took long naps, moved some snow blocks around and read some books.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Sunday, June 25, 2023 - 8:00 pm PT

After three consecutive days of carrying load up the mountain our sore limbs couldn't have been more grateful for the well earned rest day. We started the day late with eggs hash browns and bacon which could easily give local diners a run for their money. Most of the group relaxed in their tents enjoying their digital and analog ways of entertainment as we waited for dinner as we all know rest days come with a feast. We had pasta.

The chess pieces have been moved by us and mother nature and we have reached a stalemate. We have the three musketeers to help us reach the top in style. With Dom leading the wolf pack who would happily fall in the crevasse to save the rest of us; Seth always doing the needful without expecting anything in return and Dan lightening the mood of the group after a hard day with his cheeky one liners. All we need now is the good karma of 10 souls to give us a 72 hour window to summit the mountain. No matter what the future holds, our place will never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory nor defeat.

Marching to the summit, One step at a time.

Onwards and Upwards��

RMI Climber Saurabh Sharma

June 25, 2023 10:00am PT

It seems surreal that just 24 hours ago we were sitting on the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier with our fingers crossed for flyable weather. Kahiltna International Airport (KIA) could have just as easily been our home for the next week but instead we slept easily and comfortably on real mattresses for the first time in nearly 3 weeks. Today and only today the weather cooperated for us to make our escape. How did we get here? Let me tell you...

24 hours prior to the 24 hours that we just experienced...

We woke up to a mix of clouds and sunshine at 14k Camp and casually dismantled camp and packed up all our things. The weather and clouds mostly stayed below us with an occasional surge of precip and wind at camp. The walk down to 11k Camp was uneventful other than a quick reunion with Dominic Cifelli and Dave Hahn's respective RMI climbing teams. High fives were had but we kept moving, we had a timeline to meet.

Once at a 11k Camp again we located our cache, set up tents, made water and ate dinner. The clouds rolled in and out of 11 Camp like the tide on the shore. Like the tide, what was in the clouds was wet and gross. After "napping" for around 3 hours, we "woke up" at 9:30pm to get moving again to catch the lower glacier in its most stable and frozen condition. 

Sadly, the cloud we walked into below 11 Camp was hovering around 33 degrees and raining. The team was quickly covered in a layer of ice and rime. Everything - backpacks, trekking poles, goggles, jackets, pants, were incased in a 1/4 cm of ice. We trudged for several hours through this freezing rain. Eventually we got below the cloud, and everyone shed their icy armor that had accumulated. After a break at the bottom of Ski Hill to recover our cache (and thaw out), we resumed trudging on the lower Kahiltna.

A simple 3 more hours of trudging in what ended up being a fairly direct path across the Kahiltna glacier, we arrived at Heart Break Hill. It was time for the final hour of uphill that must be ascended to return to the airstrip. The team's morale stayed high, and hearts stayed unbroken. We made quick work of Heart Break Hill. Shortly after 5am, we were back at the airstrip; 19 days had elapsed since we were last here. It seemed surreal to be back. Even more surreal the weather continued to cooperate, the cloud ceiling stayed high, the sun showed itself briefly! Around 8:45am the drone of a K2 Turbo Otter was heard. 24 hours after leaving 14k Camp, we were picked up in the most wonderful red plane you've ever seen and whisked back to civilization, Talkeetna. 

Everyone has been awake for 24-36 hours at the time of writing this. There is still much clean up and packing to do before we can sleep.

The trip is over, but our memories and experiences will last a lifetime. This is the final blog from The Bond Girls. If you want to know more, contact your loved ones, they have service now! Even if they're pretending they don't...

Cheers,

The Bond Girls

The Five-Day climb led by RMI Guides, Brent Okita and Henry Coppolillo, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They enjoyed absolutely beautiful day on top this morning with a great route and enjoyable weather.

They will enjoy a casual walk back down to Camp Muir to do some more training this afternoon and tomorrow morning. The team will return to Basecamp tomorrow.

Nice work team!