Entries By geoff schellens
June 17, 2015
June 16, 2015 11:47 pm
It was cold this morning at 17,000’ Camp. I mean walking down the ridge in parkas and puffy pants cold. With light winds and a nip in the air we picked our way down the west buttress amongst throngs of other climbers seeking lower elevations. Once we started down the fixed lines the wind died and the solar began cooking us, we walked into 14,000’ Camp wishing we had shorts. After a few hours relaxing at our old home we loaded up and continued on to 11 Camp for the night. We had a custom order fry up for dinner, trying to cook all the remaining cheese, meat, tortillas and other heavy items before hitting the sack. Our plan is to wake up in the middle of the night and walk to the airstrip. If all goes as planned we should be back in Talkeetna by mid day. Thanks for following along on our Upper West Rib expedition.
On The Map
Happy birthday, Kimmy!! Hope you had a great day making your way back down! Your trip looks like it’s been absolutely incredible. So proud of you and can’t wait to hear your voice again soon!! xox
Posted by: Corey on 6/18/2015 at 1:18 pm
Hi Kim, GREAT! WOW ..We are so excited for you & the amazing RMI team!! Trish & I look forward to seeing you In ALASKA & telling you in person how proud we are of you & the entire team!!! See you real soon!! Travel safe & stay well! Love, Dad
Posted by: SHEL on 6/17/2015 at 8:53 am
June 16, 2015 - 2:01 am
Hey, this is the Upper West Rib team calling you to confirm that we made it back to High Camp. We are all tucked in for the night, in bed safe and sound.
RMI Guide Eric Frank checks in from High Camp after the team returns from the summit.
June 15, 2015
June 15, 2015 8:57 pm PT
Hello everybody this is Geoff Schellens with the Upper West Rib team calling from the summit of Denali. It’s been quite a long day and a lot of tired folks but we are happy to be here. We are about to start our descent and we will check in from 17 Camp. Thanks everybody for following along.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens calls from the summit of Mt. McKinley with the Upper West Rib Team.
Congrats Kim and happy belated bday!! I have been thinking of you constantly. You are my hero! Xoxo
Posted by: Steph on 6/20/2015 at 9:09 pm
Congratulations KIM!!!! What an accomplishment!
Posted by: Christa Huseby on 6/16/2015 at 12:53 pm
June 14, 2015
Sunday June 14th 8:20 pm PT
Hello, this is RMI Guide, Eric Frank, calling in from Alaska. I’m at the Balcony Camp on the Upper West Rib, here at 16,900 feet. Our team climbed up here today from our 14,000-foot camp. We’re doing great. It is about 7:20 PM, Alaska time. We have tents up and we are settling into dinner. It’s beautiful evening out here. We can see several hundred miles from our vantage all throughout the Alaska Range and into the tundra to the north, so we’re doing well. We anticipate great weather tomorrow.
RMI Guide Eric Frank calls in from Balcony Camp.
I am glad to see that our prayers cleared the weather for you. May God be with you all during your climb. I can not wait until I am able to climb this mountain sometime in the next couple of years or so.
Posted by: Kevin Stone on 6/16/2015 at 8:16 am
Kim- it’s me again- just wanted to give you a heads up that dad has been waiting for you on the summit- so act totally surprised when you see him- he brought a stuffed colobus monkey with him so you won’t be able to miss him!
Posted by: Lora on 6/15/2015 at 11:37 am
June 14, 2015
Sunday June 14th 12:00 a.m. PT
The weather has turned and things in the Alaska Range are looking up. All day we lounged under blue skies and made our final gear decisions.
It appears from the forecast that tomorrow and Monday will be our best opportunity to climb. We anticipate leaving in the morning and starting a 72-hour cycle of nearly continuous movement, punctuated with some periods of sleep, that will hopefully take us to the top and all the way back to our plane ride to Talkeetna.
Kim- in the immortal words of Diana Ross “way to go Kim & the rest of your group”!! Oops I mean, “ain’t no mountain high enough”- good luck on the big climb!!
Posted by: Michael on 6/14/2015 at 3:15 pm
Kimapotamus- exciting news about your trip!!! Good luck with the big climb-you will totally rock-it!!!!
Posted by: Lora on 6/14/2015 at 3:11 pm
June 13, 2015
Friday June 12th 10:30 pm PT
A blog post brought to you by Kim, Pete and Phillip:
We awoke to clear blue skies and stellar views of the Alaska Range. It was followed by an exquisite breakfast of fluffy blueberry and granola pancakes, topped with a wild cherry compote. Then we made a six-feet deep hole and went to “The Edge of the World”.
Weather is looking better and we are hopeful that we will move up the mountain this weekend.
We are looking forward to moving higher up on the mountain, since we are all rested up having slept more in the past few nights than we have in the last month. Clearly we are enjoying the mountain lifestyle, but ready for the next challenges.
Viele Grüße vom Berg, cheers
P.S. Hi Sophia! XO love Aunt Kim
Glad all is going well. We had dinner with the family tonight. We all are very excited for you.
Mom and Dad
Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 6/13/2015 at 6:47 pm
Hi Aunt Kim!!! Thanks for giving me a shout-out on the mountain- now I’m famous!! Good Luck with your big climb!!!
PS I wouldn’t want to be with a bunch of boys- they may have cooties!
Posted by: Sophia Rose on 6/13/2015 at 3:29 pm
June 12, 2015
June 11, 2015 10:02pm
With unsettled weather upon us we slept in this morning had a nice brunch and spent the afternoon reviewing some technical skills. We discussed some of the techniques we will use and practiced removing and stowing various types of gear as we climb. The team is anxious to get climbing but there is nothing we can do until the weather improves. For now we are enjoying long meals, funny stories, and some good naps. That’s all for now. Thanks for following along and keep your fingers crossed for some good weather up here on Denali.
RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens & Team
Hi Kim & Co.!!! I am no Al Roker but surely things must be getting better in your neck of the woods!!! Fingers crossed that the snow is done for the time being!!! Btw Sophia is auditioning for the role of Flounder on Monday (Ariel’s sidekick)...
Ron the Potato, Jerome, Adam Richman, Mark Klein & me
Posted by: Lora on 6/12/2015 at 7:30 pm
Hi Kim, I hope there is a dramatic improvement in the weather so that you & the team can move upward! Hopefully, tomorrow (Saturday) will be the “big’ day where the snow will stop,the sun will shine & the winds will be calm!!! I am sending positive weather vibes your way! Travel safe & stay well! Love, Dad
Posted by: SHEL on 6/12/2015 at 4:58 pm
June 10, 2015
All of the pieces are in place for an attempt on the Upper West Rib, now we are just waiting on the weather. With yesterday’s carry to 16,400ft we have had a chance to stress our bodies and progress the acclimatization process.
The weather in the Alaska range can be a fickle thing. Moisture from the south mixes with frigid temperatures from the north, and the resulting scale of weather can be anything from light snow flakes to true arctic blizzards. Right now we are in a holding pattern waiting for the snow to stop. It has only snowed a few inches today, but two feet are predicted for the coming 48 hours. With our shovels at the ready we are waiting to see if the prediction comes true.
There is a silver lining to the forecast, however. It appears as though after this round of snowfall, the weather will stabilize and we may get our window to climb. That is still a few days out, but we are hopeful. The highlight around camp today was a potluck style lunch. After two weeks on the glacier a little variety in the daily diet was a welcomed change.
Thanks for following along, and if anyone feels like overnight shipping a snowblower and a few gallons of gas our way, it would be much appreciated.
RMI Guides Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank and the UWR team.
Hi Kim! Cannot believe all the snow! Hope you are not getting too frustrated, I certainly admire your stamina! On the bright side - the 17 year cicadas are in the midwest right now. Hope it clears up soon! Love, Momma
Posted by: Jane Lubow on 6/10/2015 at 9:02 pm
June 10, 2015
June 9, 2015, 9:46 pm PT
The weather forecast has been calling for an impending storm, luckily it held off until late this afternoon. This morning we woke, ate a quick breakfast, and rigged for caching up on the Rib. With light loads and good climbing conditions the team made good time as we worked our way up to the West Rib. Clouds and light winds picked up in the afternoon and we decided to cache at 16,400’. Clouds enveloped us on our decent and the winds kicked up shortly after we returned to 14 Camp. The team did great and we are now in a great position to push higher when the weather allows. Everyone is well and looking forward to more climbing. Until we get our weather window we are maintaining excitement by focusing on the small things. For example, tomorrow we are planning a potluck lunch and maybe some competitive napping. That’s all for now. Thanks for following along with us.
On The Map
Kimmer!!! Y’all are amazeballs!!!! Way to go!!! I must quote Dr. Shelly now “things are getting very exciting”!!! Marina & Sophia say hello and give you kisses!! Have you made a Pringles, pb&j quesadilla yet???
Posted by: Lora on 6/10/2015 at 11:51 am
Hi Kim, Great update! We are all so pleased that you & the team are on the “move”! Wow…16,400’ for the carry! Now lets all hope the weather “breaks” soon & you have a great “window” that will allow the team to take the next big “step”! Travel safe & stay well!! Love, Dad
Posted by: SHEL on 6/10/2015 at 8:39 am
June 8, 2015
June 8, 2015, 6:16 pm PT
Not too much to report from camp today. The weather was moderate, but not good enough to coax us out for a walk or carry up hill.
At this point the team is just focusing on resting, meeting the neighbors and getting ready to utilize the next window of good weather.
Speaking of neighbors, the most exciting news of the day is that we are joining Tyler Jones’ team for dinner tonight. After ten days on the glacier together, the whole team is ready to interact with some new faces and hear new stories. Tyler’s team was nice enough to invite invite us over for a round of loaded quesadillas. The only remaining question is what we should take as a house warming gift.
RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank
On The Map
Looks like it is going to be a good time while having a great climb.
Posted by: Kevin Stone on 6/10/2015 at 10:54 am
Sounds like a big RMI shindig. I certainly hope Pete brought his guitar for dinner entertainment purposes.
What? He left it home? Are you kidding me?
Good luck to you all.
Posted by: Art Muir on 6/9/2015 at 2:06 pm