Entries By geoff schellens
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens did not have the weather window they hoped for last night and were unable to make a summit attempt. Geoff reported that there was about 6 inches of fresh snow on the route. The team will be finishing out their week training on many alpine mountaineering skills before heading back to Rainier Basecamp tomorrow afternoon.
Congratulations to the Emmons Team!
Sorry we didn’t check in last night, I was unable to get any SAT reception from Base Camp. Yesterday we descended from high camp to base camp where we were welcomed by hot lunch, beers, and warm water for a foot bath. We re-sorted gear and relaxed before an outstanding dinner and then went to bed fat and happy. This morning we woke up to coffee in bed and then eggs and bacon before we finished packing. Just after 9 a.m. we began our hike back to civilization, we quickly descended through many ecosystems over the course of the day with dark clouds nipping at our heals. By early afternoon we had made our down the Santa Cruz valley and out to Cashapompa where we met our van. We are all now back in Huaraz having just finished a huge dinner and a couple pisco soures. We are all happy to have showers and some Wifi, but also already talking about the next trip.
Thanks for following along on our amazing adventure here in the Cordillera Blanca!
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens & Team
We woke at midnight to cold temps and light gusts. After a quick breakfast we packed and stepped into our crampons. Just after one in the morning we left camp and began our traverse across the glacier leading to the start of the technical climbing. After a quick break we pulled out our sexing ice tool and started up the narrow ice runnel. Cold temps, a hand full of other teams, and the altitude made for a challenging climb but everyone did a fantastic job climbing and made good decisions. Shortly after sunrise the team topped out on the summit of Alpamayo to find a strong cold wind out of the east. This made for a short summit celebration before starting the rappels back down the icy face. By 10AM we were all safely back at high camp where we ate, hydrated, and napped all day. We will spend one more night here before descending to base camp tomorrow.
I’m very proud of how the team did on this difficult climb today.
That’s all for now,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
That’s awesome. CONGRATULATIONS
Posted by: Chris on 7/29/2016 at 10:51 pm
Posted by: Gabi & Elsy on 7/29/2016 at 9:35 pm
After a restless night of sleep at our high camp, 17,900ft, we got up late had breakfast and coffee and began our day of chilling. Everyone is adjusting well to the new altitude, some minor headaches this morning but once we were up and moving around a little the symptoms abated. After soup for lunch some folks caught a quick nap before we started packing and prepping for our summit bid tonight. We are all excited for our chance to start climbing this beautiful face we have been looking at all day. That’s all for now. We’ll check in again after we get back from our climb tomorrow.
Thanks for following along,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Best wishes to Geoff and the team. hey Geoff, I’m working down the hall from your Dad in South Portland, ME. He’s been kind enough to keep us posted on your progress. I just want you to know that you have my dream job!! Enjoy as I sit in my fluorescent lit cube, pounding away on this keyboard. LOL! Be safe!!
Posted by: CJ Knight on 7/29/2016 at 10:40 am
yeah Geoff and team!!! Cheering for you today!
Posted by: Elías on 7/29/2016 at 8:59 am
Today was a big day, we loaded our packs and dawned our climbing equipment and walked away from Moraine camp. Once on the glacier we slowly worked our way around crevasses as we worked upward to the col. About 800 feet shy of the col we encountered to first of the three steeper pitches which the team dispatched with no problems. Everyone climbed very well and just before 3 pm we were all at our high camp. This is also where we caught our first glimpse of the face we will climb. We settled into our tents for a quick nap before tea time and then dinner. As Alpamayo caught the alpenglow of the last light of the day we retired to our sleeping bags, tired but very happy.
Tomorrow we rest before we make our summit attempt the following day.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens & Team
This morning you could feel the energy in the air. Everyone is very excited to be moving up hill again. Immediately after breakfast Dan, Paul, and Olga began packing and were done by 9:30, despite the plan to leave BC after lunch. So we all enjoyed a little more relaxation time until lunch was served around noon. Unfortunately the tasty pasta ended up sitting heavy in our bellies so we waited a bit more before shouldering our packs. As we picked our way through the boulder field we settled into a comfortable pace and in just over two hours we found ourselves at Moraine Camp, 16,200’. Everyone is doing great and glad to be making upward progress again. We are all tucked in for the evening, getting some good rest before we move up to high camp tomorrow.
Thanks for following along.
Well today was a very relaxing day in base camp here on Alpamayo. We slept in until 8, drank lots of coffee with bacon and eggs, and then did some laundry and lounged in the sun. Around mid day we made the arduous 20 minute stroke to the nearby lake for some more chilling. A couple of the team were brave enough to go for a dip in the beautiful alpine lake, there is a glacier pouring into the water at the far side. After they warmed up on the sunny rocks we wandered back to camp for lunch and then a siesta in the afternoon. We have now just finished another amazing dinner and we are heading to bed soon for some rest before our move to Moraine Camp tomorrow. Though the rest day was well deserved everyone is very excited to be heading up hill again.
Thanks for following along on our incredible expedition in the beautiful cordillera Blanca here in Peru.
Good evening, the Alpamayo teams had a great day today starting with coffee in our tents and then an outstanding breakfast of eggs toast and oat meal. We then casually packed up some gear to carry up to Moraine Camp and began hiking just after 10am. The light breeze kept the hike comfortable as the team made good time to 16,000’ where we cached our climbing gear and supplies for our climb. We relaxed here for a bit and soaked in the amazing views of the Cordillera Blanca before descending back to BC. We were greeted back in camp by tea, soup and a great lunch followed by a siesta. Then this evening we ate another incredible dinner of soup, potatoes and chicken and a beautifully presented cake. Our cook, Hilario, is truly a master in his element. After our three-course meal we relaxed and watched a movie on the iPad before retiring to our tents for bed. Everyone is doing very well and spirits are high. Tomorrow we take a well deserved rest day after three days of solid effort.
That’s all for now.
After a very good night sleep we woke shortly after the sun kissed our tents and had an elegant breakfast of coffee, quinoa porridge, pancakes, and toast. Once we had had our fill we packed up camp, and started off for the day’s hike. A light breeze kept the temps comfortable as we continued up the Santa Cruz Valley this morning. Shortly before noon we broke off the main trail and headed up a series of switchbacks to gain the high valley where base camp was waiting for us. Here we also caught our first glimpse of Alpamayo. We arrived into BC and settled into our tents and relaxed for the afternoon before tea time and then dinner. Our cook Hilario, is fantastic, every meal is better than the last, the team is becoming spoiled. It will be a sad day when we have to eat our freeze-dried dinners.
Everyone is doing great, staying healthy and happy.
Thanks for following along, more tomorrow.
Heck Yeah, Team Awesome!! Your souls must be glowing!! Thanks for bringing us along for the adventure!
Posted by: Gabi on 7/27/2016 at 8:17 pm
We woke up earlier than we would have liked this morning and met for breakfast at 6:30 after putting the finishing touches on our packing. At 7:00 the van arrived and we loaded up and hit the road. By 10:30 we arrived at Cashapampa, the town at the trail head of the Santa Cruz Valley, unloaded the van, shuffled gear around and helped corral the donkeys to be loaded. Just after 11:00 we started up the trail, weaving through the narrow canyon for a bit before climbing up to more open, pleasant, terrain further up valley. Our donkeys passed us just before 5:00 PM and in half an hour more we found our camp at Llama Corral. Our cook, was already hard at work making an outstanding dinner for us. That’s all for now, tomorrow we will make our way up to BC.