Entries By mike haugen

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Reach Camp 1

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee | June 13, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'

Friday June 12th 11:25 pm PT

Upon our late arrival at Base Camp the weather started turning nasty, so we set up tents and burrowed into our sleeping bags.  Lo and behold, upon awakening the skies had cleared and the mountain beckoned!  We broke camp and descended the Southeast Fork Kahiltna to the Main Fork, turned up-glacier and headed toward Camp 1.  The glacier route is in prime condition and we reached our camp in several hours taking in the spectacular mountain views around us.  Everyone in the team is doing great and looking forward to our next objective, Camp ll.  More later!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

Mt. Hunter and Mt. Francis from the Kahiltna Glacier, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Arrive at Base Camp

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee | June 12, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

After some long trips from our respective homes, our crew arrived in Anchorage and formed the super team, “El Siete” (RMI Team Seven). We made the journey to Talkeetna, AK the day before yesterday and started to prepare for our flight onto the mountain. We spent yesterday packing in the hanger. The weather did not seem to be on our side and the probability of us flying into base camp on time seemed very small. We figured we would be joining all of the other teams that had been doing the “Talkeetna Wait” for days. We woke up today anticipating that we would not fly this morning and we were not wrong. After a good breakfast, lunch, and a few wanders around town, we planned on getting a pizza and watching the NBA finals. As soon as the crew started to get into the game, the flight service called and told us there was a small window for us to fly.

So here we are on the glacier ready to climb the big one. If you did not get a call from us before we left, we were in a mad rush and we will get back to you after we summit!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team

Talkeetna, AK. RMI Photo Collection View around Mt. McKinley Base Camp. RMI Photo Collection

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Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Summit Climbs Reach the Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Zeb Blais | June 08, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Zeb Blais led the Five Day Summit Climb June 4 - 8 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The Four Day Summit Climb June 5 - 8 was led by Mike Haugen.  Both teams reached the summit early this morning. They were beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7 am.  Zeb reported pleasant weather with winds from the west.  The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short time before continuing their descent to Paradise and returning to Ashford.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

RMI Guide Zeb Blais snapped this shot of the Five Day Summit Climb on the summit of Mt. Rainier June 8th.  Photo: Zeb Blais
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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Seth Waterfall | August 09, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climbs Teams led by RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Mike Haugen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Seth reported clear skies, no winds and a super nice day for climbing.

The teams were starting their descent from the crater rim just after 7 am today.  They will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing down to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp later today.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb Teams!

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Team on the Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen | July 27, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb July 24 - 27, 2014 led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 7:30 am with 100% of their team.  The team reported great weather and good climbing. Today’s team consists of climbers raising funds for Big City Mountaineers and their Summit For Someone program.

The team will complete their descent today, returning to Paradise later this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Big City Mountaineer Team Members! 


Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams on Top!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pete Van Deventer | July 22, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Both the Four and Five Day Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams tagged the top!  RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Pete Van Deventer reported a sleet/snow mix and moderate winds.  At 8:45 a.m. they radioed basecamp to say they are beginning their descent.

RMI climbers on the upper flanks of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Ed Viesturs
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Mt. Rainier: Climbing Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Tyler Reid | July 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today.  The team spent several nights on the mountain training for their summit attempt on Rainier and gaining knowledge and experience for future climbs.  Today is the sixth and final day of this program putting their new skills to use.

RMI Guide Tyler Reid led the Four Day Summit Climb to the summit this morning.  As of 7:30 am both teams were at the top of Disappointment Cleaver on their descent.  It’s a bluebird day on Mt. Rainier, clear skies and warm temperatures.  The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing to Paradise.

We look forward to seeing both teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.  Congratulations to today’s climbing teams!


Mt. Rainier: Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Geoff Schellens | July 11, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen along with the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by Geoff Schellens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  As of 7 am both teams were on their descent and approaching the top of Disappointment Cleaver en route back to Camp Muir.
Conditions are beautiful this morning with warm temperatures and light winds reported from Camp Muir (10,080’).

Congratulations to today’s climbing teams!

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Mt. Rainier: July 9th - Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Stoney Molina, Leah Fisher, Garrett Stevens, Nick Hunt, Pepper Dee | July 09, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four and Five Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Garret Stevens were just leaving the crater rim at 7:19 am.  The teams have had a blue bird morning with clear skies, great views and light winds. We expect the teams back at Rainier Base Camp this afternoon.

Congratulations to Today’s Teams!

Crossing the Crate Rim on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita Leaving the Summit of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Back in Talkeetna

Posted by: Mike Haugen | June 29, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

June 29, 2014 - 8:23 am PT

We finally got off Mt. McKinley as the snow stopped and the clouds parted. We wrapped up a great adventure with a great meal that did not have to be rehydrated.
I want to thank Bruce and Josh for being great partners in our adventure. Bruce is one of my heroes. Even though he is blind, he climbs with a natural ability and has a great mountain sense. He truly understands what mountaineering is all about. I look forward to our future adventures together!

RMI Guide MIke Haugen and Team “The Ocho”

River near Talkeetna, Alaska. Photo: Eric Frank

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