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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Knoff & Team Complete Upper West Rib

This is Adam checking in from 17,200’ on Mt McKinley. The past 24 hours were simply an unforgettable mountaineering experience for everyone on the team. The Big Day began early yesterday morning from an 18,000’ High Camp on the Upper West Rib route. We found ideal cramponing conditions as we ascended the 50-degree + slopes of the Upper Rib, to where the route terminates on the western edge of the ‘football field’ below the summit ridge. This section of the route is the crux of the climb and required everyone to draw on their repertoire of previous ice climbing experience at altitude. It was an exhausting haul to reach the Football Field, where our original plan was to rest, brew up, and re-energize for a period of time before making a summit bid. However, our respite in the temporary ‘camp’ lasted longer than planned, owing to the effort it required to reach that point, and Plan B was put into motion. Temporarily abandoning the summit, we determined it was wiser to descend to 17,200’ High Camp on the standard West Buttress route and re-group (we never intended to descend the way we had come, as the slopes are prohibitively steep). Much as Everest climbers do in the interest of acclimatization, the new plan is to descend to the relatively warm climes and thicker air of 14,000’ and strategize the possibilities. We have successfully climbed our chosen route, Denali’s Upper West Rib, and now the fickle mountain weather will determine our chances of knocking off the summit (via the W Buttress route). It would be sweet, but on this mountain you have to roll with the punches. We’ll see what the Weather Gods have in store and make a determination. We’ll be back in touch!

On The Map


Comments (3)

Congratulations to the Family Style Upper West Rib team on a successful Rib ascent!  What an amazing experience and accomplishment.  I imagine you were quite exhausted by the time you got to the Football Field.  Glad you’re gearing up for another shot at the summit, and good luck to all especially my Swiss redhead…

Posted by: Esther Kim on

Nice place to camp on the rib!  Must have been great views.

-Mike

Posted by: Lindy on

Way to go Courto and Adam’s Ribs.  Sounds like you’ve had an epic day and everyone has earned their first beer once you get back to the land of oxygen.  Make sure it’s a Coors ok?  I will offer some virtual sacrifices to the weather Gods in support of your summit bid.  Every mountain should experience a Scaife standing on top of it.  Cheers to all - take care of my sister!

Posted by: Susannah Thompson on

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