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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Mallory & Team Move to 17,000’

When the alarm sounded this morning we stuck our head out of the tent and saw nothing but clear skies. The wind was blowing high up near the summit, sending whisps of snow flying off the ridge lines, but conditions between 14 Camp and high camp at 17,200' (17 Camp) were perfect: it was go time! It was cold again as we at breakfast and broke down camp but the team kept to task, by now everyone is comfortable working in the cold temperatures. Just after 8 am we headed out of 14 Camp, climbing the slopes back to the fixed lines and up to our previous high point at our cache at 16,200'. We climbed well to there, managing the bigger packs on the fixed lines without any problem. After a break to eat and drink we set out up the West Buttress proper, climbing right along the ridge line for the final 1,000' to camp. The West Buttress is widely regarded as the finest climbing of the entire route and today did not disappoint: it was a simply spectacular afternoon of climbing. The sun was out, there was hardly a breath of wind, and the snow conditions were perfect. The team climbed strongly, weaving back and forth between the outcroppings of granite that pepper the ridge line and across the intermittent stretches of thin snow ridges between where the slopes fall away several thousand feet to each side. The big packs, high altitude, and exposure kept us focused and it was a hard day of climbing, but by the time we reached camp everyone was excited and smiling. We set to work right away upon reaching 17 Camp, shoveling out a few previously used tent platforms that we're buried under several feet of new snow, touching up the snow walls in case the winds pick up, and setting up and anchoring down our tents. It was a calm and warm evening so we sat outside afterward, eating dinner and gazing across the patchwork of clouds below that stretched off into the interior of the North Slope of Alaska. If the perfect weather that we have right now sticks around we're hoping to take advantage and make our summit bid tomorrow. The team is tired from the day but recovering well now that we're in camp and excited about giving it a shot tomorrow. We'll let you know how it goes. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Comments (12)

Dad, heard about your summit, congrats! Hope the trip down goes well, thinking about you as always.

Posted by: Nick Marini on

For Frank - Praying for the good weather to continue for the team.  Can’t wait to see the photos you bring back!

Posted by: Michelle M on

Good luck where ever you are!! We are cheering for you all the way.  Be safe and have fun.

Posted by: John and Lorraine on

Awesome Linden!  Congrats on Camp 17.  Good luck and be safe up there!

Posted by: Bill McGahan on

OK Mountain Men -  GO FOR IT!  Hope your dreams come true! Love you Paul….

Posted by: Laurie Colaneri on

so exciting to read the blog…Keep up the good work & great energy. May tomorrow be your summit day.
Alysse in the Forest

Posted by: Alysse on

Today is your day Frank, I wish I was there with you amigo but I’m very happy and proud of you and the entire team, I know you’ll make it!!

Posted by: Mike Behr on

Wow Will what a great way to celebrate Erin’s 30th!  Good luck to you all!  Enjoy!

Posted by: Toni Jones on

Great work making it to 17Camp and looking at a summit tomorrow!!  Would that be today??  7/7?? SO exciting if your able to summit on my 30th birthday!  Keep up the good work and be safe.

Posted by: Erin on

Wishing you continued good weather, strength and courage for today’s summit bid. What an amazing adventure. Love to Frank from me, kids and Mom.

Posted by: Laurie M on

Madhu and team:
Be safe and have fun. It is an amazing experience being up there!
-Patrick

Posted by: Patrick Moore on

The weather Gods are with you!!  On to the Summmit!!

Posted by: Michelle Hickey on

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