McKinley Expedition: Luedtke & Team Finding a Familiar Routine
Posted by: Ben Luedtke, Mike Bennett, Avery Stolte
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, June 15, 2026 - 10:43 pm PT
Denali Dispatch June 15, 2026
After five days on the mountain much of our routine feels familiar: toilets with mountain views, wet hands and bums, and frosted breath near the purring cook stove. What’s not yet normal is the ever-present daylight. We’re each testing novel approaches to elusive sleep, mostly struggling, and yet still waking up strong and in good cheer. That’s why today’s 5am wake-up seemed routine. After coffee and breakfast bars we bundled up for our last snowshoe day to fetch our cache 1,000 feet below. The thirty-minute walk down was brisk, made notable when we moved into a windy cloud. Our clothes turned white, visibility fell to three ahead, and glasses fogged as we debated whether visibility or covered noses was our priority. It was cold. It felt like the real start of the trip. At the cache we bundled up as the guides dug out gear and we loaded sleds while laughing about the conditions.
The slow walk up started with frigid hands and winds from our right, turning to clear skies again by our first break. It’s a good reminder, the discomfort on this mountain doesn’t last. Then, by 9a we were back to camp and settling in for a breakfast sandwich brunch. From there we broke into our usual patterns - some reading, some napping, and some building property empires.
In the afternoon we dusted off our crampons for a refresher on climbing steps, bumped into three friends of Devon, and were given a bounty of candy, bone broth, and ramen from a group who just summited. There's a growing familiarity with one another and shared embrace of focus on each day as it comes. That’s what’s hard to describe about these trips - we come for the summit, yes, but also for the invitation into discomfort, for the long hours with new friends, and for remembering how little we need.
Family, friends, and loved ones - you’re often on our mind as we walk on our ropes. Know we think and speak of you often.
From 11, RMI Climber Hudson
P.S. We thought a glossary of key terms might help as you follow along.
Cache. A six foot hole dug in minutes by guides to hold food you wish you had, lost socks, and dinner options besides burritos.
Toilet. A snow burrow with ice bricks for privacy, his and her urinals, and two green buckets for sitting and paper waste. Visible when standing, you either have brilliant views or piercing wind.
Kitchen Tent. Two facing bench seats with touching knees dug hip height below the snow. Icy steps mark the entrance, chef cooks on the far end, tent pads serve as cushions, and talk often returns to trash and hot sauce.
Snowshoes. Like children in their parent’s shoes, sometimes on the wrong feet and much improved when equipped with risers.
Rope Team. A guide plus three tent mates who occasionally step on the rope and yell encouragement from 20 feet away at rest breaks.
Tent. A sauna that smells like a locker room, sounds like a zipper, and insists on hiding your spoon.
Written by Climber Hudson
Comments (3)
What a truly remarkable experience. No better way to experience it them with friends and family memories will last a lifetime. Stay safe and keep the momentum going. Love you all.
Posted by: Sas and Sandy. on
You all grabbed the cache! You all are sitting pretty with position on the mountain and lovely weather to come later this week. Awesome work.
Posted by: Ed DaPra on
Truly unbelievable!
Between these incredible updates and AI, I’m with you in spirit, cheering you on every single step of the way!!
LFG 5!!!!!!!!!
Posted by: Kierstin Decicco on