Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Settle in at 14,000’

June 23, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Another successful push up the hill brought us to our 14,000' Camp. The team performed wonderfully even with the big loads we were carrying. 14,000' Camp is a huge flat area that has a view up towards the summit looking one way and a view out towards Mt. Foraker and Mt. Hunter the other way. What an incredible place! The sun reflecting off of the snow that surrounds us causes it to be quite hot during the day. When the sun tucks behind the mountain around 9:00 PM, it gets COLD. Like Alaska cold! Go figure. Although our team is a bunch of animals, we are taking a rest day tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

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Papa and Shreekanth uncle- hope you guys are entertaining eachother on your day off. Can’t wait to hear all the stories about your adventures!
love you, love yashu

Posted by: Yashu on 6/24/2011 at 8:57 am

Hi Dad! Take it easy tomorrow and keep warm at night! Can’t wait to see pictures, the view from 14,000 sounds pretty nice.

Luv,
Maya and Sarina

Posted by: Maya and Sarina on 6/24/2011 at 2:12 am

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Mallory & Team Ready to Fly

June 23, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

The sky never quite darkened outside the drawn shades of the hotel rooms up here in Talkeetna last night and before long the sun was rising in the sky again. We met up at the Roadhouse Cafe this morning where Matt, the final member of our team and a local Alaskan resident, joined us. Over heaping portions of scrambled eggs, bacon, thick slices of toast, and steaming cups of coffee, we toasted the merging of the team and the beginning of the adventures. After spending some time talking through the details of the climb ahead we went over to the National Park Service offices here and checked in with the climbing rangers, collecting our climbing permits and discussing the most recent route conditions with the climbing rangers. With permits in hand we walked back through the streets of Talkeetna, just starting to bustle with the midday influx of tourist arriving from the Anchorage area, and across the railroad tracks to the air strip where we spent the rest of the day organizing our gear for the climb. We unpacked, sorted, checked, rechecked, and repacked our personal clothing and climbing equipment, inspected our climbing ropes, fired up and tested our stoves, counted our 22 days worth of food, set up and examined our 4 tents, separated the shovels, wands, climbing pickets, and snow saws we will need, and then rechecked everything again - making doubly sure that we are feeling prepared with our equipment. Finally, by later afternoon, a pile of duffels, backpacks, snowshoes, tents, poles, and climbing equipment began to accumulate in the open entrance of the hangar of K2 Aviation. At long last the pile stopped growing and the final last minute items were added. Just before dinner we weighed out all of the bags, carefully checking the weights of each item in order to allow the pilots of the small prop planes we fly in tomorrow so that they can adequately distribute the weight of our loads. With a full day of packing and preparing for the climb, we retired to the local and legendary eatery and watering hole of the West Rib, indulging in Caribou burgers and Halibut tacos before calling it a day. We are hoping that the clearing skies we see in the afternoon persist into tomorrow allowing us to make the 30 minute flight from Talkeetna into the Alaska Range to Denali Base Camp. There is always the chance that weather either here in Talkeetna or up on the mountain will not cooperate and not allow us to make the flight but spirits are optimistic and we are keeping our fingers crossed the weather shakes out in our favor. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wonderful to read your blog Linden. Wishing you, Frank and the whole team a safe climb and an experience beyond all your expectations!

Posted by: Connie S. on 6/24/2011 at 12:12 pm

Happy Birthday…you know who you are…. :-)

Posted by: Laurie C. on 6/24/2011 at 6:45 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Carry to 14,000’

June 23, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

We had great weather as we made our way to 14,200' today. Our mission was to carry a load of food and fuel to 14k camp so we can try to move up there tomorrow if the weather permits. The team looked strong as we climbed our way through some pretty windy conditions into the sunshine of "14". We ran into Jake [Beren] and his team. They are waiting to make their move up to 17,000' as soon as the winds die down up top. Looks like there is going to be a party @ 14,200'! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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Woohoo! Sounds like a fiesta! Hope the wind subsides and that you are staying warm- bet you’re missing some good old malaysian cooking right now after all that trail food, don’t you worry, i’ll eat an extra plate of chicken curry for you. Love you papa.

Posted by: Yashu on 6/23/2011 at 10:45 am

Dr. K we are here at st.marks thinking about you. Wondering if you still have all of your toes or do you need bethany to make you an appointment with Dr. Anderson. Homer want to know if you could bring him back a northern light.? We hope your hike is going well. Take lots of pictures for us and we will see you soon.
Love,
Homer, Scott, dr zimpolich, and the heart crew.
Ps. run like a gazelle!

Posted by: St.Marks Heart Team on 6/23/2011 at 10:26 am

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren & Team Wait Out the Weather

June 22, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Ominous yet beautiful spoons of spin drift continue to tear across the upper mountain. For now we wait safely at 14 camp passing the time reviewing knots, going on training hikes and practicing skills needed on this expedition. Our camp at 14,000' is an ideal place for us to wait out the weather so that is what we'll continue to do. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Hi Everyone
Hope the weather is clearing on the mountain top and you all will be able to move up there soon. Are you cold yet?? We love you Anne Gilbert and are very proud!Dad loved his call from up there. Mom and Dad

Posted by: chris chase on 6/24/2011 at 7:15 am

Glad you are hanging in there. We miss you and can’t wait to hear about your grand adventure.

Posted by: carolyn crandell on 6/24/2011 at 6:34 am

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Linden Mallory & Team Gather in Anchorage

June 22, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Good evening from the land of the midnight sun. The RMI June 21st Mt. McKinley Expedition Team gathered in Anchorage this afternoon, overcoming the first potential obstacle of any climbing expedition - the moment when you find out if all of the gear that you've spent days and weeks meticulously sorting and packing actually arrives with you after the flights. Thankfully, all the needed bags popped out on to the conveyor belt at Ted Stevens Airport at one point or another. After loading the van with our gear we headed out of town, low lying clouds hanging above Anchorage and just obscuring the peaks of the Chugach that border town. After a quick grocery stop in Wasilla (yes, the legendary Wasilla, AK) we kept driving up the Parks Highway as the skies gradually broke. By the time we arrived in Talkeetna the mountains of the Alaska Range were beginning to poke out of the clouds in the distance and we spent a few minutes on the edge of town admiring the views. Tomorrow we will spend the day organizing our gear and getting ready for the mountain. It has been many months of preparation an thousands of miles traveled to arrive here and the excitement about the adventures ahead is growing. It is 11:30 at night here in Alaska and we just watched the sun finally settle out of the sky, disappearing the peaks of the Alaska Range that sit on the horizon. Happy Summer Solstice to everyone. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Retrieve Supplies

June 21, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Another early wake up to good weather; good weather for Denali anyway. The skies were a bit overcast and light snows were falling but the winds were calm. We did a "back carry" today. This means that we went from our 11,000' camp back down to retrieve our cache at 10,000'. We bury our caches well over a meter deep so the ravens don't get into our food if the warm days melt the snow. Our strong team ascended back up to camp with style and spent another afternoon sport eating in the posh house (cook tent). RMI Guide Mike Haugen

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Jeff the temp has dropped to 80F today and lots of rain. We will probably need to build a fire tonight.

Posted by: Allen on 6/22/2011 at 11:32 am

Ravens, huh? Those things are scary. Meanwhile, I’m stuck out here in 100 degree Walnut Creek with wild turkeys…Thinking about you all.

Posted by: Yashu on 6/22/2011 at 8:35 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team at 11,000’ Camp

June 20, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

We left camp this morning on our way to 11,000' camp in okay weather only to end up climbing in white-out conditions. Despite the poor weather, we made good time and arrived in camp mid-morning. We dug in a great camp and spent some time making our cook tent (the posh house) into a kitchen and dining area that would make Martha Stewart proud. We then proceeded to "sport eat" all afternoon and into the evening. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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PATRICK! 11,000’! The PG&E trail is less than child’s play in comparison!

Been keeping up with the blog - looks like you’ve got a great team! I hope all is well! Good job on killing your finals and winning at life.

-Janina

Posted by: Janina on 6/22/2011 at 12:08 am

Nice work mike and team!

Posted by: Sam2 on 6/21/2011 at 6:38 am

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren & Team Take Another Day at 14K

June 20, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Greetings from 14,000’ camp on Mt. McKinley. Part any mountain adventure is reacting to the weather conditions. And today’s weather has us waiting, resting and acclimatizing for another day. The team is getting better acquainted as our conversations are ranging much further today than on previous rest day. Our spirits remain high as we sit here in great shape with our cache already stored above the fixed line. Now we're just waiting for a good weather window to make our move to High Camp at 17,000’ and then a bid for the top. So we are patiently waiting: relaxing, drinking tea, and enjoying each other’s company here at 14 camp. We'll hang tight up here and wait for a good stretch of weather, to go higher. That's all the news from Mt. McKinley and we'll be talking to you soon. RMI Guide Jake Beren and Team

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Dear Vince, How are you all fairing waiting this weather out.? I hope you will be able to start again soon. Serena home from Europe this Sat, i was thinking you would be Sun but that seems not to be. At least I will have one of my beloved crew back with me and the little boys. We are fine, just waiting and watching for news from you. I can’t wait for dinner at The Serbian Crown with our favorite meal and just the two of us….I love you, please be careful, come home to us! Lea

Posted by: Lea Vilasi on 6/23/2011 at 5:43 am

We are wondering if you are climbing today? You have a new future climbing partner-Lilah Anne Uchal, born today June 22 at 11:43 am. 7 lbs and 6 oz. Healthy and ready to go! Good luck to you all, as well as to Lilah!!
Kathy

Posted by: kathy Uchal on 6/22/2011 at 3:30 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move to 9,500’

June 19, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,500'

We bit off another chunk of the mountain with our move to 9,500' camp today. The weather threatened to close in on us around mid-morning with clouds surrounding us and a bit of snow. Around noon, the clouds cleared and the sun warmed us up as we finished out our day with a hard afternoon of napping. Slow is steady and steady is fast. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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papabear,

I’ve officially posted this blog on my facebook. Prepare for an avalanch (is that word taboo??) of comments/support/love. miss you! we have SO much to catch up on-COME.HOME.FASTER.!

love you!

ps. dying to know how that salmon jerky tastes…

Posted by: Meera on 6/22/2011 at 7:17 am

Hi ashok and sreekanth uncle!

You guys rock !!!!!

Watching your progress all the way from Australia..good luck and will speak to you soon..

Chandru

Posted by: Chandru on 6/22/2011 at 12:11 am

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren & Team Training at 14,000’

June 19, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Hello, this is Jake Beren with the RMI McKinley Expedition. We would like to wish everybody a Happy Father's Day from 14,000 feet on Denali. Today we rested at camp and used the opportunity to practice our fixed line and running belay techniques to get ready for the upper mountain. With the weather system kind of sitting over the mountain right now it looks like we might have another day or two here at our 14,000’ camp. But our fingers are crossed that will be heading up to 17,000’ and then getting our chance at a summit attempt in the not too distance future. So wish us well from down low. Again, Happy Father's Day to all the proud papas out there. We'll be checking in from either here or higher up. Thanks everybody, and will be talking to you soon.

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Hey Barry!OMG! nearly at the summit now babe,ah so proud off ya hun,you & all the team are doing amazing.I am following your every step.So much is happening back here Barry cant even believe it myself, cant wait to tell ya all the exciting news.I’m praying for you everyday day babe Love you & stay stronge, can’t wait to see you. xxx Leah

Posted by: leah on 6/21/2011 at 12:12 pm

Hi John!

Dad & I are keeping in touch with your progress, and hoping all is going well!! “Bo” and “Gim” are getting along fine. Emily is staying w/us, next week!! Hope the weather cooperates for your summit!

Mom

Posted by: clarice Weiss on 6/21/2011 at 8:32 am

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Settle in at 14,000’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Mallory & Team Ready to Fly

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Carry to 14,000’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren & Team Wait Out the Weather

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Linden Mallory & Team Gather in Anchorage

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Retrieve Supplies

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team at 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren & Team Take Another Day at 14K

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move to 9,500’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren & Team Training at 14,000’

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