Entries from Mt. McKinley
Hello, this is Jake Beren with the RMI Mt. McKinley Expedition calling from 14,000’ camp. We arrived here yesterday and are happy in our brand new home and happy place. Before moving camp we made a carry the day before with our gear.
The team is looking great, very strong as we climbed yesterday. We arrived late afternoon and set up shop.
Today we are going to do a little bit of training and potentially make a back carry to pick up our cache. So all's well here, it’s a beautiful sunny day here in the Genae Basin. We are looking up at the fixed lines.
The RMI Team lead by Tyler Jones made their move to 17,000’ camp this morning and are just doing great and heading up the West Buttress as we speak.
So, that's all from 14,000’ on Mt. McKinley. It's great to be here with a good crew. We'll be checking in the future.
This is Jake, Mike, Gilbert and team standing by at 14,000’.
Hello from Talkeetna, Alaska,
Our McKinley Expedition June 14th team met in Anchorage on Tuesday, June 14th, since then we have spent time shopping, packing food, gear, and other necessities, and meeting with the National Park Service. Our gear is organized and packed and we are all set to fly tomorrow (Thursday, June 16th). The weather has not been clear for several days so there are many teams waiting to fly to/from the Kahiltna Glacier. The weather has not begun to clear and planes are flying.
Our chances look good to fly onto the mountain tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Climbing a mountain like Denali is different than smaller peaks. On shorter trips to lower altitudes, climbers can push to their physical and mental limits, with slightly less potential consequences. Here, though, it's imperative that climbers be at their peak strength, and that they are mentally prepared for the challenges of the cold, the altitude, and the difficulty of the route. With those considerations as well as a less than ideal weather forecast, we decided to take a rest day at 14,200' today. While the team performed well on yesterday's carry, we all could benefit from some more chilling and sport eating.
So we started our day late, with a bodacious breakfast of egg, bacon, and cheese burritos with salsa and hot sauce. Hot coffee rounded out our top-flight mountain café experience. The team is currently resting in the tents and working through excess lunch food, playing cards and reading. So we sit and wait in a state of relaxed anticipation, ready to spring into action as soon as we have ideal weather. Send us your vibes for more sunny, calm days!
Until tomorrow,
Tyler Jones, Garett Stevens, Erik Endert & the crew
Armed with last night's forecast, we woke early this morning for our planned carry from camp here at 14,200' to the top of the fixed lines. By 7:15, we were underway, and within 2 hours we were climbing the most technical terrain so far. Using our ascenders and solid climbing techniques, we gained ground quickly and without incident to 16,200ft, where we stashed some of our luggage for the upcoming push to high camp.
Even though the weather today hasn't been as nice as previous days, it was still a good day for moving on the mountain. Light winds, light snow, and high clouds kept the temps fairly low, but everyone's hands and feet stayed warm and toasty as we made our way up and back to camp.
The crew continues to impress with the strength and motivation they display, and we're all fully stoked to be in position to launch for the upper mountain as soon as we have the ideal weather window. For the remainder of the day today, though, it's resting and recovery after the morning's climb.
Thinking warm thoughts from 14,000ft...
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Erik Endert, Garrett Stevens and the team
Today we slept until the sun crested the West Rib of Denali, quickly warming the zero degree nip of the night. Another great bacon, bagel and coffee breakfast with stories around the posh house quickly lead to the post noon hour. The team had a few hours to rest and hydrate. The afternoon brought training for the fixed lines and running belays we'll encounter on our final carry tomorrow. The crew is very excited to be in the final preparations leading to our summit bid, hopefully a few days from now.
The weather continues to be absolutely wonderful. Keep the positive vibrations coming our way and we'll be in touch soon.
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, & Erik Endert
Hello, this is RMI Guide Jake Beren checking in from 11,000' on Mt. McKinley. Today we re-traced our steps and went below camp to retrieve our cache. With all of our gear now at 11,000' we are re-organizing and re-packing. Our plan is to move a load of gear tomorrow towards our next camp at 14,000' and place a cache. We are hoping to make our move to 14,000' camp in the next few days if the weather cooperates.
All's well here. Our team is strong and doing great, so we'll be checking in from higher up the mountain.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
Even though this mountain has a reputation for fierce weather, we have been enjoying gorgeous days during the last week. The team had another sunny, windless day on our move to 14k today. We arrived, after four plus hours of walking, to a deserted camp sight fixed with 4 great tent platforms and a nice mountain business station. While we'll have a little bit of buffing out to do to bring camp to our 5 star standards, it's still nice to just walk right into ready-made platforms.
The team climbed strong today, and is currently resting after getting settled in to the tents. Tomorrow will be dedicated to the art of mountain chilling, and hopefully the small snow squall that just recently moved over camp will clear out and give us the up close and personal views of Denali's west face. The group seems to be acclimating well and should be set for the upcoming carry and move to 17k camp in the next few days. Have a great rest of the weekend!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Hello everyone. It’s Jake checking in from Camp 3 at 11,000’ on Mt McKinley. Everyone in our party is strong and doing great, the weather is cooperating and we’re thoroughly enjoying expedition life in the Alaska Range. Our plan is to back-carry tomorrow and pick up our cache at 9,500’, then return to camp at 11,000’ for some R&R. The day after tomorrow we’ll climb ‘Motorcycle Hill’ and place a cache in the vicinity of Windy Corner (13,300’), descend, and once again camp at 11,000’. Camp here will be home for the next two nights, then weather permitting we’ll move up to 14,200’ and establish Camp 4. But we don’t want to get too far ahead of ourselves. So long for now.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
This is Adam calling from Kahiltna Basecamp. We’re back and everyone is safe and sound, but our adventure isn’t over yet. Weather permitting we will fly off today, but at this point of the trip we defer to the expertise of the Alaskan bush pilot. The weather here is cloudy, with fog banks creeping in and out of base camp. The pilots must have perfect visibility in order to safely land here, so all we can do is sit and wait. It’s funny how much the weather dictates all movement on Mt McKinley; airplanes and climbers both! Yesterday was my 36th birthday and what a great place to celebrate life! Though everyone is looking forward to reuniting with family and friends, our climb of the Upper West Rib and reaching the summit of Mt McKinley is something we’ll always remember with pride.
If the planes get in, this will be our final dispatch. Otherwise, I’ll keep you posted on how we’re entertaining ourselves and dreaming of things we all take for granted in civilization!
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
After a big day of work getting half our kit to the 14,200ft camp, the team is enjoying a much deserved rest day in our plush camp at 11,000'. Our breakfast of bagels, cream cheese and bacon was a wonderful way to start the day, and the mostly clear skies and lots of sun are making the day quite pleasant for swapping jokes and stories around camp. The agenda for the day is more eating, drinking and resting, with an eye towards packing up and moving higher tomorrow.
Days like today are the reason many of us come to the mountains: to spend quality time with friends old and new, be present in the moment, and have an unforgettable experience in one of the most incredible places on the planet. Even though thoughts tend to trend towards the summit on beautiful days, we're happy to just be here, soaking in all the glory that Alaska has to offer. Thanks for following our progress and cheers for now!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
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Enjoy my bredren and sistren. positive vibes to you.
Posted by: jason thompson on 6/17/2011 at 7:08 pm
Hey Jake and your team!! It is so exciting to watch the progress of your expedition. Please tell Clay Gilliland that all of his friends in Hot Springs are keeping all of you in our prayers for a successful and safe trip.
Tom Baird
Posted by: Tom Baird on 6/17/2011 at 5:03 pm
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