Entries from Expedition Dispatches
May 29, 2015 10:41am PST
As the sun hit our tent we woke up ready for our back carry to above windy corner. We could hear the wind in the distance scouring the buttress above us. But here at camp it was calm and brisk. Since we worked hard on our move to
14 camp and our back carry would only take a few hours, we opted for a relaxing morning before our work had to be done. After lounging in the posh till late morning we geared up and retrieved our cashed equipment and food.
When we got back it was only mid afternoon, so the next task was to fortify camp with walls in case the wind decided to give us trouble. Little did we know that our team consisted of Egyptian craftsman. In no time or camp was secure.With much of the day left we took a solid break and made some fresh coffee, which is a real amenity up here. After being properly caffeinated we practice fixed line travel which will be a well needed review before cashing at 16,200.
We are feeling good and are putting ourselves in a position to head higher on the mountain. With a little more acclimation and calm weather we will be ready for high camp and a bid at the summit. We are all very excited.
RMI Guide
Adam Knoff & Team
May 28, 2015 11:34pm PST
After a big day yesterday, we took it easy today to rest up for a forthcoming summit push. We woke late and enjoyed a breakfast of eggs, bacon; and hash browns which stretched into afternoon. A few hours of sorting gear, napping, and reading led into a dinner of quesadillas. Unfortunately, the meat department may be getting low... From here on out its freeze dried dinners, ramen, and oatmeal. With that in mind we savored the fresh food, and wrapped up small details for tomorrow. Everything seems to be lining up for us to move to
high camp tomorrow. We'll wake early, beat the sun out of camp, and take our second stroll along the West Buttress. Everybody is excited and fired up.
Keep your fingers crossed for us!
RMI Guides Pete, Josh, Robby, and Team
Thursday, May 28th 10:37 pm PDT
We woke up this morning to blue skies in Talkeetna, which meant great weather for flying! After a meal at the roadhouse we scurried over to hangar to transition from Talkeetna street walkers to
Denali climbers. With climbing boots on and smiles on our faces we enjoyed a great flight onto the mountain.
Once we arrived at Basecamp the team was highly efficient organizing their gear. After a minimal amount of time at Basecamp we embarked on our journey up the Kahiltna Glacier. Several hours later we arrived at our camp for the night at 7,800'. The team immediately set up tents to shade themselves from sun and nestled in. After a delicious meal of Annie's Mac and cheese we hunkered down for the night.
We will check in again tomorrow night after another day of good work.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
The
Upper West Rib team assembled today at the Anchorage airport and started our journey north to Talkeetna. All of us are excited to have the trip underway. We have lots of logistics and preparing to take care of, but that will start tomorrow. Tonight we are going to get settled into our hotel, have some dinner, and relax. That's all for now, thank you for following along with us as our adventure begins.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
May 28, 2015 - 10:12 pm PT
The weather played out as forecasted today, with strong winds blowing plumes of snow off of
Denali's summit and West Buttress. We were happy to be down here at the 14,200' camp where the winds were much more manageable. We enjoyed a leisurely brunch of bacon, eggs, and bagels while the winds howled outside. Much of the rest of the day was spent reading and napping in our tents.
The weather forecast looks good for us. We plan to rise early tomorrow (Friday) and make the strenuous climb to high camp at 17,200'. If all goes well, we'll shoot for the summit on Saturday. This is by far the best weather forecast that we've had all trip and we plan to take full advantage of it. We're well rested and acclimated, and eager to climb. We'll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & team
Thursday, May 28th 12:32 pm PDT
The team is all assembled and packed in Talkeetna! Yesterday we had a thorough gear check and sorting session in the K2 Aviation hangar. Everyone's kits are dialed and we are ready to go. It seems like we have a great team and we are hoping for a great trip. Hopefully we have some good weather today and are able to
fly on!
RMI Guide
Tyler Jones and team
Thursday, May 28th 3:49 am PDT
After so many posts about waiting for weather, this one is different. We headed for the fixed lines this morning under clear, sunny skies. The day turned into the nicest that Robby, Josh, or I have ever had on the
West Buttress--warm and without a breathe of wind. Because the weather was so nice, the climbing conditions so perfect, and the group climbing so well, we decided to push all of the way to 17 Camp and leave our cache there. The climbing on the Buttress is some of the best of the entire route, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed the huge views, interesting climbing, and the accomplishment of getting it done. It was a big day, just under 10 hours round trip, so everyone is knackered but elated, and we will more than likely sleep in and take a rest day tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team
On The Map
May 28, 2015 - 9:39 am PT
In the big picture breakdown of
Mt. McKinley's climbing days, it would be said that historically the move day from 11,000 foot camp to 14,000 foot camp would prove to be one of the most difficult. Today I would say that we beat the odds. We broke camp at 7 am this morning in quick time and after a delicious breakfast of instant oatmeal and instant coffee we were ready to tackle the day's first objective. Directly out of 11 camp, a swell steep uphill called Motorcycle Hill greets you. Next is Squirrel Hill and after that Windy Corner. Now I'm not sure how we have gotten in such good graces with the often grumpy weather gods but today those gods, sitting around their big weather God dinner table, decide today should be the nicest day all month. With clear skies, no wind and perfect walking temps we all zipped right through those hills and corners to a breathtaking camp here at 14,000 feet. We were in no rush because the day was so amazing so we created our own camp out of scratch and are all feeling rewarded and strong. Big move days rarely go this smooth. We could not feel more psyched for what's to come.
I am thinking about you Liam. I can't wait to see you.
Wishing all of our family and friends big hugs.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by
RMI Guides Brent Okita and Garrett Stevens reached Camp Muir on Monday with their team. This week has been beautiful and the team has spent their time on the mountain honing their mountaineering techniques. This morning the team left Camp Muir en route to the summit. They arrived around 6:30 am PT and were able to enjoy the blue skies and sunshine from the top. The team will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain and some additional training. Tomorrow after noon they will return to Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
May 27, 2015 - 10:38 pm PT
We woke early this morning, ate, took down our tents and packed our backpacks. We even had our harnesses on. The weather was perfect. But after checking multiple weather resources, our decision was clear. Weather models were in agreement, forecasting gale force winds in excess of 65mph tomorrow at high camp. It would not have been prudent to risk going up high today and deal with potential tent-crushing winds tomorrow. So we unpacked and set up our tents anew.
Throughout the emotional swings of this morning, our team has remained resolute. Safety is our number one priority up here in the mountains, and we will try for our summit push after tomorrow's winds abate. In fact, the forecast looks quite good for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. We're optimistic that we'll have good shot to move up to high camp on Friday.
In the mean time today, we're enjoying the best weather day of our whole trip. It's sunny, calm, and warm
here at 14,200'.
Pete Van Deventer's expedition is up high on the ridge today, caching supplies for their stint at high camp (which will likely coincide with ours). Adam Knoff's expedition rolled into camp today also, and they're busy setting up their camp. It's good to see a lot of friendly RMI climber faces here at camp.
We'll keep you posted any news from our end.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
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I think I know who one of those Egyptian craftsmen is!
Posted by: Jessie on 5/29/2015 at 9:58 pm
Enjoy the moment. Following each blog and the breathtaking photos. Much love
Posted by: Carolyn Walllgren on 5/29/2015 at 5:48 pm
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