Entries from Expedition Dispatches

The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Seth Burns climbed the Ingraham Direct Route on Mt. Rainier and reached 12,800'. Firm route conditions kept the team from climbing higher.

The team is at Camp Muir where they are in and out of the clouds. They will spend some time re-fueling and organizing their gear before starting their descent.

Congratulations Team! 

Hello all –

The team awoke to find improving weather and a newfound hopefulness to escape the ever-shrinking Talkeetna. After a walk to the local coffee shop the team began their standby at K2 Aviation where they waited for the green light for clear enough cloud cover to depart. At around 3pm, the signal was given and in a mad flurry the plane was loaded, and the expedition was a go! The team enjoyed a scenic flight into the freshly snow coated Alaska range with nearly clear and sunny skies. Once on the glacier, the team was quickly left alone to divide gear, load sleds, and embark down the valley. Deep snow made for slow travel as the team broke the trail through a few feet of fresh Alaskan powder. After a few hours, the team broke down for camp, probing a safe spot on the glacier and settling in. Tents were quickly pitched, and dinner was thrown together. The team enjoyed a clear and scenic backdrop before heading to bed.

All the best,

RMI Guides Mike Bennett, Jack Delaney and the Ruth crew!

Thursday, May 3, 2023 - 1:49 AM PT

Howdy folks!

We awoke this morning to big fat snowflakes slowly meandering down from gray skies. To say the least, we were not optimistic for our chances to fly into the Ruth Glacier. That was not an issue for us though because we had plenty to do today. We did a full gear check, organized group supplies, wandered around town, and got weighed in for our (eventual) flight. We were completely ready to roll by noon. Sadly the snow fall increased in intensity as the day went on. After lunch we went dived into refreshing and learning all the various knots that are important for climbing and mountaineering. This training session took us right up till dinner where we enjoyed pizza at Mountain High Pizza Pie. The team then decided to meander over to the one and only Fairview Bar for Open Mic Night. It was a splendid evening that did not disappoint (see photo). Spirit remain high for our chances to fly out tomorrow!

Wish us luck?

RMI Guides Jack, Mike and the Team

Tuesday, May 2, 2023

Hello friends, family and avid fans of the RMI blog,

It's the Ruth Glacier Seminar and we've just landed in Alaska. After surviving the most dangerous part of the trip, the drive to Talkeetna, the team has gotten settled into town. The team bonding began immediately over a delicious meal at Denali Brewing Company. We finished up the evening with a lovely stroll to the river and early bedtime after a long travel day. 

Goodnight from the land of the midnight sun,

RMI Guides Jack Delaney, Mike Bennett and the team

The Five Day Climb April 28 - 2 May led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Dustin Wittmier are descending from Camp Muir this morning.  The team made the most of their time on the mountain getting in a Climbing school to learn cramponing, rope travel and ice axe arrest techniques.  They then ascended to Camp Muir, 10,080', where they spent two nights and were able to do additional training.  Lightning near Camp Muir and high winds kept the team from making a summit attempt this morning.  We look forward to seeing them back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Hello trusty readers,

We woke today in Lukla and gathered for breakfast. It would be our last teahouse breakfast as a team. Today we were flying out of Lukla back to Kathmandu. Flight times are not strict or on time or a for sure thing. After plenty of coffee and patience, we made our way to the heli pad and waited for Dawa to tell us to head for the chopper. We needed two helicopters to get the eight of us out and by 12:30pm we were all safely in Kathmandu. It's feels good to be back and almost like a dream that only a few days ago we were above 17,000'. After showers and shuffling gear we met for one last team dinner to celebrate the three weeks together. It's been an amazing adventure with amazing people. Thank you team from Abby and myself for a great time and to share the mountains with us. We hope to see you again on another mountain with RMI Expeditions!

Thank you for following along,

RMI Guides Hannah, Abby, and Team

Hello readers,

We woke for our last trekking day. The trail and teahouses have gotten busier as the Everest climbing season is kicking off. While for many they are just starting their adventure, we are ending ours. By 8:30 am we were off headed down trail. We had a lot of stairs ahead of us but also lots of motivation to tackle all of them. As the morning turned into the afternoon it felt like we were going the wrong way on a one way. Hundreds of people were walking in along with train after train of mules. This must be what it feels like to be a salmon swimming up stream. We did what we could to weave through the crowds. Man do we feel lucky to have been trekking during the quiet time of the season. Eight hours later we took our last steps up the stairs leading into Lukla, the town we flew into and our starting point. We left here jetlegged, bright eyed, and clean. Now we look a little weathered and worn down, but our eyes have seen so much beauty and we have had experiences to last at least a few months before the itch to sign up for another adventure takes hold. Tonight is our last night in a teahouse. Tomorrow we fly back to Kathmandu and join the hustle and bustle of a major city. It's been over two weeks in this valley and an amazing time it's been. Now hopefully it's clear skies and smooth flying in the morning. 

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Abby, and Team

We woke in Pangboche to a crisp morning. The team strolled in one by one looking for some hot coffee to start their day. It's been a cold few days so the team is a bit sensitive to the cold. We sat for breakfast and waited for our food. Everyone ordered big knowing it would be a big day. Namche sits 1,600' below Pangboche but you wouldn't think that with all the feet we had to gain to descend into Namche. They pushed through all the ups and downs and weaved through the yak trains. A chest cold has seemed to plague half the team but even when feeling crummy they all persevered. There was a lot of incentive to push through the pain and discomfort: pizza, lattes, massages, shopping, wine... After indulging in all that Namche has to offer, we all have made it to our beds for a much deserved sleep. Tomorrow is our last trekking day into Lukla. The team is ready to fly back to Kathmandu where it all started. 

Almost done,

RMI Guide Hannah, Abby, and Team

Good evening all,

Today we made our attempt at the summit of Lobuche Peak. While we didn't stand on the summit we did get to 18,300'. The conditions were rather wintery with cold temps, lots of snow, and a bitter wind. The snow sure did make for pretty pictures but it also made for some tough climbing. We gave it all that we had but ultimately decided the conditions were not in our favor and it was best for us to turn around. It has been an amazing trip but the team is looking forward to warmth, hot showers, and lattes. We made good distance this afternoon getting all the way to Pangboche. Tomorrow we set our eyes on Namche where we can fill our bellies and find our souvenirs and gifts for loved ones. It's been a long day starting at 3 am so it's early to bed for us.

Good night all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Abby, and Team

Hello all,

We woke for our last morning at Everest Base Camp. Clouds obscured our views of the surrounding peaks as snow danced down. We ate our breakfast and said goodbye to two team members who aren't participating in the climb. Instead they took a helicopter back to Lukla. The six remaining team members rallied to Lobuche for lunch and then made their way up to high camp on Lobuche peak. The trail was snowy and snow began falling from the sky. It was a wintery ascent to camp with some slippery spots. If anyone did want to go down, it was much easier to continue up than to go down. But the team did great and handled the conditions well. We are now curled up in our sleeping bags waiting for dinner. The snow is still falling and the temps are not warm. We shall see what we get tonight for our summit bid. It's already been a great trip and a summit of Lobuche would be a cherry on top. 

Wish us warmth, strength, and good weather!

RMI Guides Hannah, Abby, and Team