Entries from Expedition Dispatches

The Expeditions Skills Seminar - Kautz June 6 - 11 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Kautz Glacier route. After several days of training the team put their skills to the test ascending the Kautz Ice chute and Wapowety Cleaver.  They reached Point Success at 8:50 am and crossed to Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mt. Rainier 14,410' arriving at 9:12 am.  The team enjoyed a bit of time in the crater and then began their descent.  They will return to camp for a well deserved rest and spend a final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they will continue their descent to Paradise, returning to Rainier BaseCamp to conclude their program.

Way to go team!

Monday, June 9, 2025 - 10:21 pm PT

Today was a long day. Around midnight the snow finally stopped and the skies begun to clear. This morning we woke up to lingering clouds, but a few hints of sunshine and finally, a day without snow. After a quick breakfast and hot drinks, we began to shovel out our camp, that had taken a real beating over the last few days of really heavy snowfall. Once we shoveled our camp, we began to pack up the gear we needed for 14,000' Camp, and gather the gear we were going to leave at 11,000' Camp until we came back through. This included snowshoes, one trekking pole, and for everyone besides the guides - the dreaded sleds. We also left behind trash, and food we realized a week in we might not eat in the remaining two weeks. Once our cache was buried and left, we strapped on our crampons and began the slow trek up Motorcycle Hill. It was no easy feat, the trail breaking was close to waist deep in places. We continued our way up Squirrel Hill, across the Polo Fields, and around Windy Corner - which was less windy than a few days ago. And finally made it to the promised land, 14,000' Camp. Greeted by friends and sunshine, it was nice to finally make it to our launching point for the rest of the mountain. We quickly built camp, and eventually enjoyed a late dinner of ramen. The team did great, everyone pushed themselves, and showed up.

Tomorrow we will sleep in and take a well deserved rest day at our new camp.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

The Five Day climb June 5 - 9 led by RMI Guide Dave Hahn reached the summit at 5 am today.  It's a beatiful blue-bird day. They enjoyed an hour in the summit crater before starting their descent from the crater rim at 6 am. The team is currently on their descent to Camp Muir. Once back at camp they will take a short break to repack their gear and then continue the final 4,500' descent to Paradise. 

Nice work team!

Sunday, June 8, 2025 - 11:01 pm PT

It started snowing yesterday afternoon while we were doing our carry, and it seems it hasn't stopped since. Heavy snowfall has made our entire world a snow globe. We woke up to the sound of snowfall on the tent, a signal to us that today would be another weather day here at 11,000' Camp. After our big effort yesterday, a little bit of a mellow morning was welcomed. So after a later alarm we all gathered in the cook tent for some toasted bagels, cream cheese and bacon. The day continued on with heavy snowfall covering every past sign of other teams or climbers. People would cycle out every hour to brush or shovel off the tents and by the next hour, the snow had just refilled. Wading from one camp to another was a waist deep adventure. After hours of keeping the camp unburied we had yet again, some burritos - and chatted about our plan for tomorrow. The big move. We are all excited about the prospect of a new camp, flat tent platforms, and one step closer to the summit. The weather looks a bit more promising so we are going to bed optimistic.

One more thing - happy birthday to Brandon's Mom!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Sunday, June 8, 2025 - 1:15 pm PT

6/7/25 - Dustin, Lacie, and Will's Team

Another day well spent in the most awe inspring, humbling terrain I've ever seen. Our team is in the groove and we are making moves in our bid to climb as high as this mountain will allow. Our goal today-- climb to 13,500' from 11 Camp to cache food and supplies for later in our expedition. After debating way too long about what snacks to keep in camp and what to cache (pro tip... do your packing the night before so you aren't the slow poke in the morning like me) we set out for the climb donning our technical gear and crampons up Motorcycle Hill towards our cache objective just past Windy Corner. While the change to crampons from snowshoes was a welcome one, it means we are entering more consequential terrain and great care must go into each and every step. Today we got our first taste of the sharp side of the mountain. While the weather started out nice we soon found out where Windy Corner gets it's name from. As we navigated the labyrinth of crevasses and "holes" we were met with strong winds, blowing snow, and the most raw conditions mother nature has thrown at us yet. Though brutal at times we achieved our objective and morale is high. I won't name names but one of us even brought our snacks up and back down again just to get a little more workout in! This place is unforgiving but we are all learning and growing together as a team. Tomorrow we will enjoy a well deserved rest day before continuing our journey. Oh, and.... HI MUM, LOVE YOU!

RMI Climber Ben

Sunday, June 8, 2025 - 9:55 am PT

Holy cow the team crushed it today. Woke up to lightly cloudy skies, but visibility.  We threw any remaining items to be cached into our packs, ate a quick breakfast of Cinnamon Toast Crunch and just as the sun was hitting camp we began walking up Motorcycle Hill. After a quick break on top of Motorcycle Hill (where the guides applied glitter to celebrate my birthday), we made our way up the steep Squirrel Hill, and across the Polo Fields toward the base of Windy Corner. As we made our way across the Polo Field the snow lightly began to fall and winds were picking up. As we climbed towards Windy Corner, winds were gusting and visibility was decreasing. Teams made a strong push around Windy Corner, through the broke part of the glacier, past 13,500' and all the way to 14 Camp.

At 14,000' Camp we took a nice long break, dug a cache hole, threw on more layers to weather the storm and left all our gear to return to in a few days. Layers on, we made our way back now in moderate snowfall, strong winds, and poor visibility. The team put their head down and made it back to camp in good time. After the long, and impressive day we all shared some Jambalaya and cosmic brownies with candles. It was a great day, and set our team up well to move to 14,000' Camp when weather allows.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Good morning! 

The Four Day Climb of Mt. Rainier led by RMI Guides Henry Coppolillo and Bailey Servais reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 5:20 am PT this morning. Both teams went 100% to the summit--an incredible achievement! The guides reported beautiful weather and a great climbing route! The teams are currently descending and will be back in Ashford at Rainier Base Camp later this afternoon.

Congratuations to today's climbers!

Friday, June 6, 2025 - 10:16 pm PT

Day 7

Today was a great day, balanced with a hike and refreshers on crampon use at our 11,000-foot home. The day started cold, but we were warmed with a southern classic of biscuits and gravy. In the morning, we also had a final chance to admire Will's elegant snow columns, leading the way to the latrine. Sadly, the mountain claimed them while we were out. 

After breakfast, we took a quick trip down and back up 1,000 feet in elevation to retrieve our cache. After the final uphill in snowshoes, we happily buried them in the ground, putting them to use as tent anchors. Above this point, we're in crampons, so Lacie gave us a quick course on their use.

After class, some much needed sun gave us a chance to relax, as well as literally refill our batteries. At dinner, we found that Will had transformed his toilet columns into an enormous kitchen wall to block the weather.

We went to sleep hopeful about the upper mountain, with plans to cache at 14k before some rough weather this Sunday.

-- Charles "Carl" Stephens

Dustin, Lacie & Will's team

Friday, June 6, 2025 - 10:37 PM PT

We could hear it before we could see it, the dreaded wind. It woke us this morning, before we saw it moving snow all across the mountain. We drank some coffee, and watched to see if the winds would die down - but they stayed elevated. Drifting snow all around camp. By 10:00 am it became obvious it was going to be a weather day here at 11 Camp for our team. We had another egg and hashbrown scramble and then spent a few hours out of the wind in our tents. By the mid-afternoon, we layered up and reviewed some of the skills that will make the next day of climbing go smoothly - from running belays, to cramponing techniques, it was nice to get a refresher. After sharpening our skills we rolled into another dinner of mac and cheese and loaded our packs with the group loads for tomorrow. Though there's a little snow in the forecast, winds look more favorable for carrying.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team

Friday, June 6, 2025 - 6:37pm PT

After three weeks in the mountain we flew from Kahiltna Base Camp this morning. While warming our hands with a final cup of coffee at base camp, we got the message that we had all been waiting for.  K2 had launched their planes.  Thirty minutes later, the distinctive red and white Otters roared over and landed in the snowy white landscape.

While weather kept us from standing on top this time around, we had a resoundingly successful trip. I cannot thank our climbers and my fellow guides enough for all of their work, effort, laughs, determination, and patience during this trip. Until next time,

RMI Guide Seth Burns