Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Monday, January 27, 2025 - 11:43 pm PT

What a proper effort that was. Every member of our team pushed themselves today and some reached the summit of Cayambe, while others reached personal high points. Overall, the climb was a great learning experience.

It was a pretty challenging climb. We sat in the hut for most of the day yesterday because it was too rainy to go outside. Then knowing we needed to get an early start, we left the hut with wind and a light mist, wearing hard shell jackets and pants. We had to push towards the upper mountain gambling on some clearing in the weather and we got just that, SOME clearing. We faced moderate winds for most of the remainder of the climb as well as clouds that obscured visibility at times. Everyone had a thin layer of rime ice.

We're now headed to a hacienda for two nights of rest before heading off to Cotopaxi!

RMI Guide Dustin Witmier

Hello!

Checking in from a breezy Camp 1 after a great day on the mountain - everyone is doing well!

We said goodbye with big hugs and lots of encouragement from the incredible Grajales base camp team. Back on the trail with heavy packs, but this time we knew what to expect as we weaved our way through steep scree and rocks. We made it to Camp 1 in about 3.5 hours - almost an hour faster than our carry day which means our bodies are adapting to the altitude well!

We worked together to get the camp set up and Jack and I soon began making dinner. Though we were not alone as everyone on this crew is always pitching in to help in whatever way they can - getting water for tent mates, offering up extra hot drinks - we have each other’s backs out here and that’s a good feeling. Even though the cold wind is blasting through camp, we’re all tucked in and warm in our sleeping bags.  Tomorrow we’ll carry loads and acclimatize up to camp 2 and back down to sleep at camp 1.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Team

RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Mike Bennett and the Ecuador Volcanoes team reached the summit of Cayambe earlier this morning. 

Way to climb!

As we slowly bounced our way up the 4x4 road to Pico de Orizaba high camp at 14,000', a thick wet fog started to coat the windshield and then our tents. I semi jokingly asked our local guide Allan when the fog would clear. ‘11pm’ he replied, laughing. 

Sure enough, when we woke around 1230am, we were greeted by a starry sky and cold! A 12,000' freezing level on an 18,500' mountain had us leaving camp in pretty much all our layers, and I for one stayed in my summit parka from camp to the summit. 

We were treated to great conditions on our climb of Orizaba. The Labyrinth, commonly a confusing and tricky walk through loose then smooth then loose rock, was all easy snow. And as we passed 16,000' onto the upper mountain, the cramponing was easy. 

Our team pushed hard toward the summit, and was welcomed by a beautiful sunrise and the classic Orizaba pyramid shadow over the lowlands. We gained the summit ridge, and warm sun greeted us at the top of Mexico. 

We spent a pleasant half hour on the summit, carefully made our way back to camp, and eventually were treated to a delicious dinner in Tlachichuca. 

Congratulations to the team on a long week and some strong climbing!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

Here’s what our daily routine is like. 

We wake up around 6:30 to start packing up before moving into our dinning tent for a feast of porridge, fried eggs, toast, avocado and even some fresh fruit, and the most important thing, hot coffee!

Starting with clear skies and a view of the mountain looming in the distance. We hit the trail making our way up the rocky trail that climbs up a blunted ridge and eventually out of the trees and allowed for some truly spectacular views of the valley below. The team hiked for a little more than four hours before reaching out next camp that sits on the Shira plateau, at around 12,500 feet. 

Everyone is doing very well and enjoying being on the mountain. 

RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

Today was a well-earned rest day, and the team made the most of it. After yesterday’s tough carry, a day to recharge was just what we needed. We kicked things off with a short walk to a local bouldering site around basecamp and stretched out our tired legs. The rest of the day was low-key and full of laughs as we hung out together, played cards, and got to know each other even better.

Of course, rest days aren’t just about relaxing. We also took care of some camp chores to set ourselves up for success tomorrow. Laundry being taken care of around camp, and gear was shuffled and repacked as we prepped for the move to Camp 1. After feeling the weight of yesterday’s packs, everyone was eager to pare down and lighten the load wherever possible.

The team is in great spirits and feeling ready to tackle tomorrow’s move. Rest, good company, and a bit of laughter really are the perfect combination to recharge after hard days on the mountain.

RMI Climber Tom

We are settled in at the Cayambe Hut. It has been raining constantly since early this morning, so we are hunkering down until we see a weather window to review some climbing skills.

Our plan is to climb tonight, but we do need the weather to improve. Despite that, every individual's preparations have already been made and now it's just a game of wait and see. We will update you tomorrow!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Today the we had an early start and left behind our comfortable lodge as we have headed to the mountain towards the start of the climb. We left around 8am and drove along the rural country side and small villages for 1.5 hours before reaching the park entrance called Machame. Which is also the name of the route we are climbing. 

Once we arrived at the park gate we had all of our gear weighed and divided into loads for our porters and other staff to carry before hitting the trail. Once everything was in order we started our climb slowly making our way up the winding trail that ascends continuously through the thick forest. Thankfully the overhead canopy provided a bit of relief from the hot sun overhead. 

We are about to start our 6 hour hike to camp that sits around 10,000ft and most likely won’t have reception so I’m sending this from the entrance. 

Everyone is doing well and looking forward to a good nights rest. 

RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

Onward and upward! 

The team begins its transition into the high alpine, leaving behind the comforts of city life as they begin their first climb of Cayambe. After a casual morning enjoying the Otavalo market, the team drove to the lower Cayambe hut where they sorted gear for the climb and did final fit checks on all the technical gear. After a freshly prepared Ecuadorian dinner, the team is settling in for their last full night of sleep before moving up to the high hut to begin their climb. 

RMI Guide Mike Bennett

January 25, 2025 – Carry to Camp 1 and Scree Sliding Fun

Today was a big day for our team as we carried a lot of our gear—about 50 pounds each—up the route from basecamp to Camp 1. It was a true test of endurance and teamwork. The route itself kept us on our toes (literally), with plenty of loose scree underfoot to make things tricky. Every step demanded focus, and the weight of our packs reminded us just how serious this climb is.

Despite the challenge, we pushed through as a team, reaching Camp 1 and caching our gear for the days ahead. After all that effort, we headed back down to basecamp, tired but proud of what we accomplished. Sliding down the scree on the descent was a surprising highlight of the day—it’s hard not to feel like a kid again when you’re essentially skiing on loose rocks! Laughter echoed across the slopes as we let gravity do most of the work.

Now back at basecamp, everyone is feeling the weight of the day’s effort (and the packs!). We’re well-tired but in great spirits, ready to take a much-needed rest day tomorrow. Rest is key in a climb like this, and giving our bodies time to recover will help set us up for success as we move higher up the mountain.

The team is doing fantastic—strong, motivated, and full of camaraderie. With every step, we’re getting closer to our goal, and today was a big step forward. Stay tuned for more updates as the adventure continues!

RMi Climber Elburz Sorkhabi