Entries from Expedition Dispatches
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif


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The RMI Expedition to Vinson Massif began January 1, 2011 as the team members and guides departed the U.S. in route to Punta Arenas, Chile. The team is led by led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs, Seth Waterfall and Caroline George.
Today they met with staff from Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions for an orientation about life on the ice. The itinerary is for the group to fly to Antarctica tomorrow but it looks like the weather is good and thus the team is readying for a departure as early as this evening (10 pm Chilean time).
The big Ilyushin 76 has been loaded with gear, food and supplies. Everything the team will need for their ascent of Vinson Massif.
If the weather remains good down on the ice, the team may be in the air in just a few hours!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
RMI Guide Ed Viesturs discusses the preparation for this January's Vinson Massif expedition with First Ascent.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
After a big day on the mountain, we stood on the top of Mexico's highest peak. Everyone did a great job and really earned the magnificent views of Ixta, Popo and La Malinche. It was a great night for climbing, shooting stars above, lit villages below, light winds on route and a great team. Excellent work. Back in Tlachichuca we all slept well for some reason and had our last meal together as a team. In our courtyard we could see Pico de Orizaba and the heights we reached yesterday at the same time of day. Now it's off to Mexico City to catch flights back home and watch the thousands of pilgrims riding bikes and trucks as well as walking to celebrate Mexico's favorite Lady of Guadalupe. Glad we get to drive. Thanks for a great trip everyone and safe travels back home.
Hello, this is RMI Guide Jake Beren calling to check in from our Mexico's Volcanoes program. We are happy to report that we reached the summit of Orizaba today at 9:00 a.m. local time. Our team did a great job on the climb.
We are headed back to Tlachichuca to celebrate and enjoy our last night in Mexico. Tomorrow we will return to Mexico City for our outbound flights.


Billy called at 9:00 a.m. PST, their entire team reached the summit of Cotopaxi this morning. They had good weather and a great climb. Currently they are enroute to Quito looking forward to a hot shower and a celebration dinner. The group will spend their last night in Ecuador tonight at the Hotel Mercure.
Congratulations to James, Casey, Sarah, Mark, Jon, Dawn, Rick, Andy and Billy!
Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
After an excellent rest day in Puebla where we explored the cobblestone streets, museums and pyramids we packed up and hit the road. In Tlachichuca we finalized our mountain equipment and enjoyed a great lunch at the climbers' compound run by our friend Dr. Reyes. Loading the truck and piling in saved us a long approach to the mountain. Once at the hut we had a big dinner and hit the sack. Tonight we will try our luck on Pico de Orizaba.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador




Well, it's our last night up high here in Ecuador. Today we awoke to relatively clear skies and enjoyed a great breakfast with views of Cotopaxi. After a short hike up to the refugio we've settled in and dined on a great meal of chicken breast burritos with sauteed vegetables. Tomorrow calls for another rugged alpine start (midnight or so), and a long day of climbing. There's lots of new snow so the mountain is especially beautuful. Hopefully conditions and the weather will cooperate and the beast will let us up to the top! Other teams have been summiting so that is good news. I'll check in again from Quito tomorrow evening and let everyone know how it went!
Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador



Greetings everyone from Chilcabamba Eco Lodge! We're enjoying a great rest day after our big day yesterday on Cayambe. From our spot we have an amazing panorama of beautiful green farmland surrounded by tall mountains on all sides. Most notably, a full frontal view of Cotopaxi's impressive north face! Last night we could even see the lights of the refugio on the flank of the volcano. That's going to be home in a couple of nights, and where we'll make our summit attempt from. Anyhow, the team has been spending the day drying out and organizing gear for tomorrow's hike to the refugio. We'll check in tomorrow from the refugio! Billy and the crew!
Shout outs: Greetings, Nick and Cam from dad! Study hard! See you soon after exams. Julie, I love you! James says, "hello to friends and family back home!" Mena, one down one to go! Outta touch with civilization - be home soon! Casey and Sarah say, "we're having a great time, lots of stories, we'll be home soon!" Dawn: "Eating, feeling, and doing great!"
Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!
Big day today!
We summited Ixta this morning around ocho in the morning with our entire crew. Everyone did very well, including a random puppy who joined us from our night at the Altzimoni hut and stayed with us the entire way to the top. We were treated to amazing weather, barely any wind and clear skies above, the lights of Amecameca and Mexico City to the West and Puebla to the East. As the sun rose it cast a shadow of the Lady Ixta and illuminated our next climb, Pico de Orizaba. Quite a beautiful day on the mountain, now to be complimented by a celebratory dinner in the Districto Historico here in Puebla where we will relax for a day and rest up for the next adventure.


Woo hoo!
Today was a great day for our crew. Despite some rough weather and a windy lenticular cloud we were able to put seven of our ten teammates on the summit of Cayambe! Snow conditions on the ascent were perfect despite the high winds and generally squirrelly weather. The ascent took around eight hours from the refugio to the summit with a brief stay on top and was followed by a three hour descent. After driving for a while we then enjoyed a celebratory lunch at a typical Ecuadorian restaurant. After nearly four hours on the road, our weary team arrived at Chilcabamba, the beautiful Ecuadorian farmhouse that will be our home for the next two nights. A great dinner of local trout and fresh vegetables put a terrific finish on a long but satisfying day.
That's all for now! We will check in tomorrow from Chilcabamba. Much love to all our friends and family back home in the states!
Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!
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