Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 13,400'
Last night we lied in bed awaiting an 11pm wakeup for a Cotopaxi summit attempt. But the winds picked up and the roof could be heard shaking and whistling all night. At the sound of my first alarm, myself and the other guides went outside to find high winds and a sideways drizzle. We then went on shifts checking every 30 minutes and hoping for improvement, but to no avail. By 3am we decided to call it and everyone was able to sleep in. The crew was certainly disappointed but still in good spirits. What helped was seeing all the people who did attempt last night return soaked and covered in a layer of half inch ice, having failed to make it to the summit. It was truly a sight to see.
After departing the hut we made the short drive out of the park and are enjoying a wonderful evening at La Cienega, one of the finest haciendas in Ecuador. We took advantage of a sunny afternoon to learn some rope skills and are looking forward to the rest of the evening in this beautiful and historic hacienda.
Today was the day! The day we would move from Basecamp straight to Camp 2, or Nido de Condores as it is officially called here. Unfortunately, the wind still did not want to cooperate and the mountain was still going to make us work for every foot of elevation gain. We walked up hill through snow, sleet, grapple, and wind gusts that made us wobble. When the wind came, we put our heads down and persevered making great time to our gear cache at Camp 1. After adding some “training weight” to our packs we turned towards Camp 2, walking into more and more wind and snow. Aconcagua really didn’t want this trip to be an easy one, not that any of them are ever easy. After 5 1/2 hours and 4000 feet of elevation gain we strolled into camp feeling accomplished, but tired and of course very hungry. By the time we put up our tents the wind was giving us a break, but the snow how now doubled its efforts and dropping 6-7 inches of fluffy powder on us in a couple hours. We were all happy to be warm and cozy in our tents watching the snow fall and waiting for dinner to help warm our bellies. Once again, everyone on this team absolutely styled an incredibly difficult day. Arriving in camp smiling and feeling well despite the thin air here at 18,500 feet. Tomorrow is a rest day and hopefully a sunny one at that!
Wednesday, January 19, 2022 - 9:09 pm PT
The team reached the summit of Ixta at 0800 this morning with mostly clear and cold conditions and little to no wind. Recent snowfall from the night prior made for good travel and the route in overall good condition. Alas, we were met with more afternoon clouds and made a muddy dash back on the lower melted trails, beating the precip to our bus escape to Puebla. Will check in tomorrow!
Posted by: Walter Hailes, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 14,500'
Today the weather continued to improve as we awoke to sunny skies and the lightest winds of the trip thus far. We headed uphill for our final carry to Camp 1 to set the stage for our time on the upper mountain. The wind wasn’t done with us yet though as we experienced several “drop you to your knees” gusts on our way up. After making it to Camp 1 and successfully caching our gear we headed back to base camp where we relaxed in the group shelter, swapped stories and enjoyed the beautiful evening alpine glow on the mountains.
RMI Guides Walter Hailes & Jack Delaney
Well done guys. Such a great adventure. I’m living Vicariously. “I can make it two more steps” Wishing you the best.
Posted by: Saxby on 1/20/2022 at 2:27 pm
Posted by: Nick Scott, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
We woke to another windy day here at basecamp. After reinforcing our tent anchors, we had a delicious breakfast. The meal was leisurely and delicious, and everyone was in high spirits. We took a walk mid day to stretch our legs and get an incredible view of the mountain. The rest of the day was spent resting and sorting gear. Tomorrow the weather is supposed to become more favorable, and we plan on moving to Camp 2 in order to best position ourselves for the summit.
RMI Guide Nick Scott & Team
Posted by: James Bealer, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
January 18, 2022
Today we rested at basecamp, avoiding the high winds as much as possible. The team read books, watched some movies, and ate lots of snacks. We are waiting for a break in the winds to try and make a final move up the mountain.
RMI Guide James Bealer
Admire your perseverance! Keep on truckin guys.
Posted by: Tom Dietz on 1/20/2022 at 5:24 am
Sending prayers for my brother Rahim and the rest of the team. Love you ghada kahi ka.
Posted by: Sheri Kindred on 1/19/2022 at 11:49 am
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Following a leisurely breakfast in the courtyard at Guachala, we made our way south towards Cotopaxi. We are staying in the Tambopaxi Lodge who's playground served as an excellent location for learning crevasse rescue techniques against the backdrop of multiple volcanoes: Sincholagua, Ruminahui and most importantly, Cotopaxi. It was an excellent day to give the body some rest while also learning some mountain skills. Seeing the mountain got us all psyched for the next couple of days, especially because you can clearly see the hut and the route from Tambopaxi. One member of the team even snapped a great night photo of Cotopaxi, that's not a stock photo!
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team
Jason - the girls and I miss you but are so proud of you! Hope you and the rest of the group are enjoying every minute!!!
Posted by: Mende on 1/19/2022 at 5:46 pm
Hey Dustin and Kevin!! Wishing you light winds and cloudless skies for your Summit of Cotopaxi!!!
I would love to see the crater on the summit!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/19/2022 at 4:39 am
Yesterday, we woke at 7am just before our welcomed friend, the sun, hit our trailhead camp. After finishing the last of our packing that was put on hold from the thunder and hail the previous night, we had a warm breakfast and donned our climbing packs for the first time on the trip. Conditions were mostly snowy and cloudy on the trail to Campo Alto, but the team managed to make good time nonetheless. In 4.5 hours we arrived, ready to set up tents before the afternoon hail storm set in. Taking shelter to cook in the Refugio, we had the camp to ourselves and enjoyed warm ramen and quesadillas. The team then got their climbing kits ready and took to the tents early to maximize rest for the upcoming summit push tomorrow.
Posted by: Walter Hailes, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
After three nights of strong wind gust, fitful sleeping and high altitude we were all ready for a full mountain rest day today. Rest days are simple and look similar to your cat’s daily routine: eat, then nap, then casual stroll, then eat, then nap. Today, our highlights were hot quesadillas for snacks and we walked across the valley from camp to an abandoned hotel to enjoy even more spectacular views.
All around a great rest day and everyone is ready for more climbing tomorrow.
Let’s go Boys! Congrats on your progress, see you at the TOP!
Posted by: Craig Straub on 1/19/2022 at 1:59 pm
Great job fellas! You will make it!
“The wonderful things in life are the things you do, not the things you have.” Reinhold Messner
Posted by: Dirk Gilliard on 1/19/2022 at 1:37 pm
A good thunder storm and the rain hitting the rooftop of our cold, but dry cabana made for a very restful night of sleep. After breakfast at the IMSS training compound of La Malintzi, we got back on our bus to make our way to the La Joya Trailhead. On the way we stopped in the markets of Amecameca to purchase our water, fresh tortillas, queso, and last minute snacks for our Ixta climb tomorrow. Once we entered the gates of the National park, we were greeted with hail, thunder, and snow for the remainder of our journey to the trailhead camp. Spirits were kept high though, as we were served another warm and delicious meal by the local staff. After our final packing for tomorrow's move up to Campo Alto. We were lucky enough to see both Ixta and the smoke off of Popocatepetl in the clear evening light after the thunderstorm passed. We are excited to begin our first objective bright and early after a good nights sleep at our trailhead basecamp.
Thats a bummer the mountain did not give you good weather. But what ever weather you get is always a cool experience!! All the best on your Big mountain Dustin and Kevin!!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/21/2022 at 3:38 am
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