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Entries from Guide News


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Move to High Camp

Moving day! The day we have been patiently waiting for has arrived. We packed up our things and made our way to high camp. After walking as the Nepalis say, bastary bastary (slowly slowly) we made it to our camp in three hours. The team did great, with everyone making it to camp. The air is rather chilly as snow flurries dance from the sky. Clouds have been building and descending on us all day. We are all cozy in our tents, melting snow for water, and getting ready for dinner. Tomorrow we will wake in the dark, but we will wait for the sun before we set out on our climb.

Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Quite the epic journey. Must feel good to be moving on up. Go Gloria! We have so much admiration for you and the team. Stay warm and safe!

Posted by: Mary Ann on 11/4/2018 at 6:54 am

Off you all go! So glad you are moving along to reach your destination! Best wishes!

Love Mich

Posted by: Michelle the Mom on 11/3/2018 at 9:53 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Prepare to Move to High Camp

You do you muffin, you do you, is how I would describe today. We all enjoyed different activities to recharge our mind and body before we make our move uphill tomorrow. Two of us went scrambling on some not so quality rock, while others went up the rolling grass hills above Base Camp. Some enjoyed a relaxing day listening to music, reading books, making jewelry or braiding hair. This afternoon we all gathered to sort out a game plan for our climb on Sunday and for the handful of days after. We have to schedule for porters to come up and help us break down Base Camp before we head uphill. We are all rather excited for the coming days. We have been waiting for this moment to climb something for roughly two weeks, with one of those weeks spent at Base Camp. Tomorrow everyone will make their way to the High Camp at their leisure and settle in before we climb the next morning.

Talk to you all at high camp,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Love you Glo!

Posted by: Michelle the Mom! on 11/2/2018 at 10:25 pm

Good luck and be safe. I love you all! And to Bridget… what can I say?

Posted by: Elías de Andrés Martos on 11/2/2018 at 8:52 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Practice Fixed Roped Travel

We heard from our team members at high camp that the route has been fixed. They reported that that the route is a mixture of blue ice and snow. They have a fixed line all the way to the ridge. The ridge, however, is too dangerous to walk along due to poor snow quality. They are optimistic though that the team can make it onto the ridge and enjoy some beautiful views. We are all excited to get the chance to climb something. As for the rest of us today, we fixed our own rope in a gully outside of camp, that had some ice in it, to give the Nepali girls more practice before the real deal. They all did great, with one of them showing real potential in the mountains. Tomorrow we rest, to give our teammates that have been working so hard to put in a route, a well-deserved break. On Saturday the whole team will move up and try our hand.

All the best,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck and safe climbing!

Posted by: Michelle the mom on 11/2/2018 at 8:32 am

Good luck team!  Can’t wait to see some pictures.

Posted by: Shannon Smith on 11/1/2018 at 4:34 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Continue to Train and Acclimatize

After packing our packs, organizing our tents, and eating lunch, we were ready to head uphill. Unfortunately though, we have been stalled at Base Camp. Our team members at High Camp radioed down that they need more time and rope to fix the route. They said the route is a bit icy and not great snow, but they seem optimistic that we will be able to give it a whirl in a few days. Till then we will continuing hanging out at Base Camp, practicing more with the girls and going on hikes. It’s a good thing it’s so pretty here and one can easily occupy themselves.

Happy Halloween! 
RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Well you’re really getting to know the place. Sounds like you’re going with the flow.

Posted by: Michelle the Mom on 10/31/2018 at 8:30 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Rest And Train

Resting and training were the theme of today. We took time to practice using the ascenders and different techniques for descending the fixed line with the Nepali girls. They did a great job and are getting more excited for the climb ahead, as are the rest of the team. Rest days can seem long but the team is pretty creative in keeping busy. Some made jewelry, while others went to the big boulder, that we call our Nepali gym to work on abs and pull-ups. We ended the day with a delicious cherry cake for dessert. The cook has done an amazing job making us delicious breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Tomorrow we will find out from our team members at our high camp whether we move up or take another test day.

Buenos noches,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Gloria,
We are checking the blogs everyday to keep up with this great adventure you are on.  Dana says if he was your age that’s where he would want to be!  He caught a salmon in your honor today.  Good luck with everything.  Hope you summit.  We love you!!!!!! 
Susan

Posted by: Susan Reid on 10/30/2018 at 5:57 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Carry to High Camp

The team made a carry to our high camp at 15,400’. We will attempt to climb Edurne Peak in a few days. Tomorrow or perhaps the next day, three climbing Sherpa and two other team members will head back up to our high camp and begin putting up fixed line on the route. The entire route will be fixed from high camp. If they decide there is not enough rope or it is not possible, we will not climb. The team as a whole does not have enough experience to climb without the fixed line. The rest of the team will rest and do some training at basecamp tomorrow. Fingers crossed the weather remains good and the route can safely go.

Namaste,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Plan for Summit Attempt

Today was a day of strategy. Team members went on a scouting mission to see what our options are for climbing. We got good beta from a friend of ours Tyler, who also works for RMI. It was great catching up with him and hearing about their attempt at the South West face of Saipal. He gave us good information, that we might be putting into play. His team left Base Camp this afternoon, after spending almost a month here. For now our plan is to attempt an unclimbed peak, that has been named after our team member by the chairman of the region. Edurne peak will be a challenge for the team, with the Nepali girls being so new to climbing. A Sherpa team is going ahead of the group to try and put in fixed lines. We will see in the coming days if this route will be possible.

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Awesome Hannah! Following you every step of your journey!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 10/29/2018 at 3:12 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Acclimatize at Base Camp

Good morning, afternoon or evening!  The team went on an acclimatization hike today. We hiked up the drainage then gained a ridge to get a better view of the surrounding peaks. Saipal peak is more and more impressive the closer you get. There is a peak to the right of Saipal that we are considering pursuing. It too looks beautiful. The team will discuss this evening and tomorrow on what we should do. Everyone’s duffles should arrive tomorrow, which the team is psyched for. Basecamp is cozy with dining tents, bathroom tent, and even a shower tent. We are living a pretty good life up here.

Talk to you all tomorrow,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Making progress. Keep on trekking!

Posted by: Michelle the mom on 10/28/2018 at 8:48 pm

Keep on ascending. Great to hear of your progress toward a beautiful summit.

Posted by: Richard Schletty on 10/27/2018 at 5:44 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Hold Puja Ceremony

Today was a special day. We had our Puja ceremony. For some of us it was our first, others it was one of many. A stone structure was made with a tree branch standing tall on top. Prayer flags fluttered in the breeze from the branch in five directions with our tents attached to the other end. A Llama sat in front of the structure reciting prayers as bells rang. Smoke swirled in the air. Everyone placed a piece of climbing gear next to the structure to be blessed. Food and drink offerings were also blessed. We all splashed blessed tea water on our heads, faces and body. Then we ate some fried bread and drank some tea. It was an experience we will not forget. The rest of the day has been full of relaxing tent time and snacking. As the evening approaches, the clouds roll in like clock work and snow flurries dance from the sky. It’s time for tea and dinner. Enjoy your day!

Namaste,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Reach Base Camp

Slowly camp came alive. Like little forest creatures coming out of their den, people crawled out of their tents. Before you knew it camp was packed up and we were on our way uphill. We continued to follow the river. After an hour or so of walking we emerged from the jungle and got a view of Saipal Peak. It looks beautiful. The southwest face is impressive. There is an American team attempting it as we speak. Fingers crossed for them, for if they succeed it will be a first ascent. For us, however, we are settling into our Base Camp. We will hangout here for a couple days waiting for the rest of our duffels and begin making a plan on what exactly our objective should be. It feels good being at our Base Camp. Snow lightly falls from the sky as people nestle into their sleeping bags before we gather for dinner. It will be a chilly night. Tomorrow should be a nice relaxing day with ample time to charge our devices.

Till tomorrow,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Oh yea! Kodiak is very entertained by your stories! I love hearing the daily report!

Posted by: michelle the mom on 10/25/2018 at 10:38 pm

Sounds like you are enjoying yourself.  People at work liked your goat sacrifice and marijuana camp story!

Posted by: Shannon Smith on 10/25/2018 at 2:34 pm

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