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Entries from Guide News

April 18, 2015

Mt. Everest Southside

RMI Guide Alex Barber Ready for Climbing After Long Weather Wait

It’s been awhile here at Annapurna Base Camp waiting out the bad weather. Today dawned clear and warm which sent the mountain into an impressive cycle of purging excessive snow as shown in the photo below.

The forecast is showing a period of reasonably stable weather. The next few days will be clear but windy. As the winds subside on the 22nd the snow returns the 24th. Currently my plan is to head directly to Camp 2 tomorrow with two Sherpa mountain guides. We’re going to attempt to break the route in all the way to Camp 4 over the next three days. The western climbers associated with these Sherpas will be following us up one day behind, eyeing the 23rd for a possible summit attempt. I’m skeptical that the 23rd will remain stable and/or that the conditions (deep snow) will allow a summit. Either way, I need more time spent up high, see the route past C2 (see photos below). And also, I just feel the need to stretch my legs and do some climbing after this long wait at BC.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

I’m glad the weather is giving, even a little.  And good you are following you plans and instincts—not get in a hurry for the summit because someone else is.  Always follow your gut instincts, they are a life saver. 

Can’t wait to see the summit photos/selfies.  LOL.  Be safe.

Posted by: Mary on 4/19/2015 at 5:08 am

April 15, 2015

RMI Guide Alex Barber Checks in From Annapurna Base Camp

Tuesday, April 14, 2015 8:54 pm PT

I am still in Base Camp waiting out a period of unstable weather. About half a meter of snowfall so far at Annapurna Base Camp with more forecast over the next few days. During a break in the weather, a Base Camp wide snowball fight erupted for about 20 minutes, too much pent up energy around here!

RMI Guide Alex Barber

What a beautiful, desolate place.  Enjoy the journey!!  Wishing you a very successful trip.  :)

Posted by: Mary on 4/16/2015 at 6:57 am

April 14, 2015

Mt. Everest Southside

RMI Guide Alex Barber With an Update from Annapurna

Today I carried more gear and food to Annapurna Camp 1 as more bad weather approached. While climbing today I noticed icefall avalanche activity was quite frequent. So far Annapurna has been relatively quiet, hopefully this isn’t a sign of permanent change. As I arrived at Camp 1 around noon it was snowing steadily with low visibility. My plan had been to go all the way up to Camp 2, but the weather was so uncertain at Camp 1 that I decided to drop the equipment at Camp 1 and head back down. Currently I’m at Base Camp sitting out this spell of bad weather.

Tentbound… again

I had considered going directly to Camp 2 today to attempt a possible summit push on the 15th. But the 15th (possibly a decent day at 8,000 meters) is sandwiched between loading events (significant snowfall). The unstable weather looks to persist until the 18th.

General Mtn news: Camp 3 was hit by an avalanche a few days ago, two teams had cached oxygen bottles and other items there a while back. All these items were swept away. The nine-day weather forecast does not look promising. Heavy snowfalls, then some clearing but with high winds. I’m hoping the forecast will change to something more promising in the next few days.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

I thought you lost communications for a while.  I was getting ready to contact RMI’s main office for a rescue request.  :)

You did pick one of the more challenging mountains to pursue hence ‘snow days.’  Keep trying I want to see pictures—but be careful. 

Posted by: Mary on 4/15/2015 at 8:27 am

Thanks for the updates, Random Fan TJ Hiker

Posted by: TJ on 4/14/2015 at 10:03 pm

April 10, 2015

Mt. Everest Southside

RMI Guide Alex Barber Feeling Better After Bout with Illness

It’s been a few days since I’ve posted an update. Mostly - ok entirely - because I’ve been ill. The most likely culprit, in my mind, for this bout of illness was the suspiciously under cooked mutton I had a few nights ago. Today, though, I’m feeling better and my focus is returning to Annapurna.

Mountain news: While I’ve been tent-ridden not too much has happened. Camp 1 was hit by a massive wind gust produced by a large avalanche originating from high up the mountain near Camp 3. It ripped a few tents from their guy lines and the group that was there when it happened lost some gear. All my on-mountain gear is cached at C2, though, so this hasn’t affected me. Progress has been made toward Camp 3 by one team, but nobody has yet reached it. Deep snow on the approach to the crosshairs couloir is the main issue. The team using bottled oxygen are planning their first summit attempt for the 15th or 16th.

My plan is to climb directly to Camp 2 on the 12th and Camp 3 on the 13th. The section between Camp 2 and 3 is the most technically difficult and dangerous area. But time spent above 20,000’ is a most important aspect of acclimatization for a no O’s attempt. Until then I’m working on kicking this illness and recuperating my strength for this next push up the mountain.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

April 5, 2015

Mt. Everest Southside

RMI Guide Alex Barber Back to Annapurna Base Camp

Yesterday, April 4th, I descended back to Annapurna Base Camp from Camp 2. In total I spent one night at C1 and two nights at C2. The route into C2 was, at times, waist deep powder snow and it’s even deeper above. So for now Camp 3 is inaccessible. Less afternoon snow storms and more sunny days to consolidate the sugar snow will be required before I can push higher. Unfortunately, the forecast for the next couple of days is for heavy falls (20-30”) of snow above 18,000 ft. After that, it looks like we might have a clearing trend.

I’ve attached four pictures. The first shows the route from BC to Camp 1 (note the two climbers at the base of the route). The second photo shows the route from C1 to C2 and then the route continuing from C2 to C3, the third is my tent and equipment at C2, and the fourth is a view up the mountain from C2. This is a awe inspiring and beautiful mountain!

Today in Base camp a herd of wild sheep stopped by and there are rumors of some type of bobcat roaming around as well. For now I’m sitting out stormy weather and looking for my next window to get back onto the mountain.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

Hope the weather is favorable for the rest of the climb.

Posted by: Gerri Seaton on 4/6/2015 at 3:36 pm

Larry Seaton - we are praying for your safety and the safety of your team mates. 
What an adventure you are having and I’m sure you will have many exciting stories to tell us.
Love, Mom

Posted by: Gerri Seaton on 4/6/2015 at 3:24 pm

April 2, 2015

Mt. Everest Southside

RMI Guide Alex Barber Climbs to Camp 2 on Annapurna

Made Camp 2 today, it’s quite the distance from BC…and I’m still not even above 19,000’!

The route to Camp 2 starts with a stretch of glacier travel. After which you gain a large cleaver that takes you to Camp 2. I had a leisurely morning in Camp 1, drinking insta - coffee and watching the weather before deciding to try for Camp 2. The weather today was all over the place.

Annapurna’s weather still feels very random and forecasts have been inaccurate. And as usual, what I’ll do tomorrow will be dictated by the weather gods…

RMI Guide Alex Barber

April 1, 2015

Mt. Everest Southside

RMI Guide Alex Barber Reaches Camp 1 on Annapurna

Today (April 1st) I moved up to Camp 1 at about 17,000’ from 13,800’ Base Camp. Enjoyed good weather in the morning which turned to light snow in the afternoon. The route to C1 is quite a distance from BC and has some enjoyable climbing. Low angle water ice and low grade mixed climbing, also a precarious arm wrap rappel of some 200’ on the most insane choss… The recent snowfall - plowing through knee deep snow - made some sections of the route very tiring.  I’m hoping the weather holds and I am able to make Camp 2 tomorrow. I’ve got three days worth of supplies including today, so I’d like to spend the next two at Camp 2.

Hopefully the weather plays along…

When I return to BC I’ll post up a few photos for a visual of the route so far.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

How long do you plan for this trip to take?

Posted by: Mary on 4/2/2015 at 1:52 pm

March 29, 2015

Mt. Everest Southside

RMI Guide Alex Barber Checks in from Annapurna Base Camp

Yesterday I flew into Annapurna Base Camp. As the pilot and I made our way through the deep valleys from Tatopani, Annapurna I appeared, rising some 12,800ft above. Yikes! A beautiful jumble of rock and ice. I leaned over to the pilot and nervously asked him if he could return me to Kathmandu. He just laughed, assuming sarcasm…

After arriving in base camp and setting up my camp, I went for a slow jog in the evening toward the glacier (see picture) and got my first glimpse of the way to Camp 1. The route looks to follow an ascending traverse across a cliff face of rock and snow which has the advantage of bypassing a 2,500’ glacial ice fall. It does seem like the slightly better of two bad options - although the cliff still holds many things above you that could become hazards.

Tomorrow I’ll attend a Puja (a ceremony in which meditational prayers are offered to the Buddhas and holy beings to request their blessings or help), after which I’ll start pushing uphill. Currently it’s snowing here in base camp with consistent thunder. The weather forecast is predicting unstable conditions until April 4th. However, there seems to be an afternoon trend to the wet weather, which if it holds shouldn’t affect my acclimatization climbs to C1/C2.

Well, that’s all I’ve got for now!

RMI Guide Alex Barber

How long is your acclimatize period between C1/C2?

Posted by: Mary on 3/30/2015 at 6:34 am

March 28, 2015

Mt. Everest Southside

RMI Guide Alex Barber Annapurna Update

Annapurna Expedition
March 27 - Update

Enjoying the hotsprings of Tatopani while the helicopter does all the heavy lifting… sort of a ridiculous way to start an expedition.

March 26 - Update

In Tatopani tonight, we made several attempts to fly into Annapurna Base Camp today through low visibility and heavy rain. The low visibility prevented us from touching down though. Flying with less than 1,000 m visibility is quite hazardous with cliffs rising high above all around you. Hopefully with the more stable weather in the morning we will be able to fly into Base Camp tomorrow. For now our Helicopter is parked in a rudimentary soccer field in the small village of Tatopani. Pretty comical and has created quite the stir among the local population.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

February 9, 2015

Q&A Session with RMI Guide Katie Bono

Date: Thursday, February 19th
Time: 6:30 PM to 9:30 PM (CST)
Location: Arc’teryx Minneapolis

Small Q&A with Arc’teryx pro athlete and RMI Guide Katie Bono where she will be answering questions for attendees about their own upcoming trips to Rainier, Denali, Shasta or Whitney. With Katie’s vast experience, she will be happy to provide insight and advise. Arc’teryx Minneapolis will be providing appetizers and a micro brew for this intimate discussion.  Click here to reserve free tickets and more details.

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