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Entries from Guide News


MIssion Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Depart Base Camp, Head Down Hill

We woke this morning to a gorgeous view. With the help of daylight, we found a water source and enjoyed a cup of coffee. Perched on a grassy valley hillside, you could see snow capped mountains across the way. We all pointed at the ones we would climb if we had time, but unfortunately we do not. The col we went up and over steepened to a degree we were not comfortable going down so we headed back uphill. We arrived back at our Base Camp, but this time nothing was there. Everything has been packed up and headed downhill. We said goodbye to our home for the last 18 days, and made our way to what we call our jungle camp. Tomorrow we keep heading down hill back towards civilization, but on our way we are going to make a couple pit stops at the villages of two of the girls. Our sleeping bags our calling us. It's been a long day and last nights sleep wasn't the most comfy. Have a lovely day, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Love reading your story Hannah.  You are a terrific writer!

Posted by: Shannon Smith on 11/7/2018 at 1:29 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Leave Base Camp, Change Objective

Sometimes you find yourself in a place you didn't expect. One of those places is on the side of a grassy hill in Western Nepal squished in a tent with three other people sharing your snacks. We decided to leave Base Camp and try to go up over a col to another valley to attempt to climb a peak. It turns out our eyes for the mountains are bigger than the desire and fitness of the team. We started too late. We took too long to get to the pass. And we found ourselves entering steep grassy terrain with consequences on both sides as night time crept in. We were not going to get to the valley below. It's been a long day. We decided to find the flattest spot, which is not flat at all, and put up the tents. The conditions aren't ideal, with no water or snow to make water. But with all that has happened today, you find the fun and happiness in the little things, like sharing snacks with your friends and eating a hard boiled egg. We will see what happens tomorrow, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Well I love your attitudes! You should get a reward for finding the positive in every day. Keep on chugging. I hope the snacks hold out.

Mich

Posted by: michelle the mom on 11/6/2018 at 11:16 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Switch Objective

After getting pushed back down to Base Camp by poor weather we said good bye to a few team members who are headed home today. Our team is getting smaller and smaller as we near the end of our time here. It's been almost two weeks at Base Camp, and although we unfortunately did not get to climb our objective, it's been a worth while experience. I believe everyone will be walking away from this expedition having learned something. Our journey in this valley is over but our journey in general isn't. Tomorrow we will head to the valley to our east and try our hand at a peak over there. We are hopeful that we can find a smaller peak to teach more mountaineering skills to the Nepali girls and to be able to stand on top of peak. Here's to some lady luck, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

If only we could control the weather…
Good Lady Luck on alternate peak!
-MA

Posted by: Mary Ann on 11/5/2018 at 9:49 pm

Hey you gave it your best shot! I’m sure the Team all benefited from the incredible experience! You are all my heroes.

Mich

Posted by: michelle the mom on 11/5/2018 at 8:23 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Descend from High Camp

Snow lightly pitter pattered against our tents. Every so often we tapped the sides of the tent to knock the snow down. We woke to a winter wonderland. As we boiled water for coffee you could hear sloughs of snow tumble down the mountain side. Mother nature had spoken. The mountain had spoken. We were not going to climb. Due to the amount of snow that had fallen and the terrain we were going to get on, we were concerned about the avalanche hazard. Today was not going to be our moment to climb. Instead we packed up our camp as the snow fell from the sky and more snow rumbled down the mountain. Our packs were heavy and the walking slippery with the new snow on slick grass and crumbly rock as we made our way back to Base Camp. Tomorrow we will enjoy our last day at our Base Camp. The following day we are looking at going up and over a col to a new valley for a few days before we begin our trek out. For now, we are all getting cozy in our sleeping bags, for there is a chilly crispness to the night air. Sweet dreams, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Move to High Camp

Moving day! The day we have been patiently waiting for has arrived. We packed up our things and made our way to high camp. After walking as the Nepalis say, bastary bastary (slowly slowly) we made it to our camp in three hours. The team did great, with everyone making it to camp. The air is rather chilly as snow flurries dance from the sky. Clouds have been building and descending on us all day. We are all cozy in our tents, melting snow for water, and getting ready for dinner. Tomorrow we will wake in the dark, but we will wait for the sun before we set out on our climb. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Quite the epic journey. Must feel good to be moving on up. Go Gloria! We have so much admiration for you and the team. Stay warm and safe!

Posted by: Mary Ann on 11/4/2018 at 6:54 am

Off you all go! So glad you are moving along to reach your destination! Best wishes!

Love Mich

Posted by: Michelle the Mom on 11/3/2018 at 9:53 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Prepare to Move to High Camp

You do you muffin, you do you, is how I would describe today. We all enjoyed different activities to recharge our mind and body before we make our move uphill tomorrow. Two of us went scrambling on some not so quality rock, while others went up the rolling grass hills above Base Camp. Some enjoyed a relaxing day listening to music, reading books, making jewelry or braiding hair. This afternoon we all gathered to sort out a game plan for our climb on Sunday and for the handful of days after. We have to schedule for porters to come up and help us break down Base Camp before we head uphill. We are all rather excited for the coming days. We have been waiting for this moment to climb something for roughly two weeks, with one of those weeks spent at Base Camp. Tomorrow everyone will make their way to the High Camp at their leisure and settle in before we climb the next morning. Talk to you all at high camp, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Love you Glo!

Posted by: Michelle the Mom! on 11/2/2018 at 10:25 pm

Good luck and be safe. I love you all! And to Bridget… what can I say?

Posted by: Elías de Andrés Martos on 11/2/2018 at 8:52 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Practice Fixed Roped Travel

We heard from our team members at high camp that the route has been fixed. They reported that that the route is a mixture of blue ice and snow. They have a fixed line all the way to the ridge. The ridge, however, is too dangerous to walk along due to poor snow quality. They are optimistic though that the team can make it onto the ridge and enjoy some beautiful views. We are all excited to get the chance to climb something. As for the rest of us today, we fixed our own rope in a gully outside of camp, that had some ice in it, to give the Nepali girls more practice before the real deal. They all did great, with one of them showing real potential in the mountains. Tomorrow we rest, to give our teammates that have been working so hard to put in a route, a well-deserved break. On Saturday the whole team will move up and try our hand. All the best, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck and safe climbing!

Posted by: Michelle the mom on 11/2/2018 at 8:32 am

Good luck team!  Can’t wait to see some pictures.

Posted by: Shannon Smith on 11/1/2018 at 4:34 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Continue to Train and Acclimatize

After packing our packs, organizing our tents, and eating lunch, we were ready to head uphill. Unfortunately though, we have been stalled at Base Camp. Our team members at High Camp radioed down that they need more time and rope to fix the route. They said the route is a bit icy and not great snow, but they seem optimistic that we will be able to give it a whirl in a few days. Till then we will continuing hanging out at Base Camp, practicing more with the girls and going on hikes. It's a good thing it's so pretty here and one can easily occupy themselves. Happy Halloween! RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Well you’re really getting to know the place. Sounds like you’re going with the flow.

Posted by: Michelle the Mom on 10/31/2018 at 8:30 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Rest And Train

Resting and training were the theme of today. We took time to practice using the ascenders and different techniques for descending the fixed line with the Nepali girls. They did a great job and are getting more excited for the climb ahead, as are the rest of the team. Rest days can seem long but the team is pretty creative in keeping busy. Some made jewelry, while others went to the big boulder, that we call our Nepali gym to work on abs and pull-ups. We ended the day with a delicious cherry cake for dessert. The cook has done an amazing job making us delicious breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Tomorrow we will find out from our team members at our high camp whether we move up or take another test day. Buenos noches, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Gloria,
We are checking the blogs everyday to keep up with this great adventure you are on.  Dana says if he was your age that’s where he would want to be!  He caught a salmon in your honor today.  Good luck with everything.  Hope you summit.  We love you!!!!!! 
Susan

Posted by: Susan Reid on 10/30/2018 at 5:57 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Carry to High Camp

The team made a carry to our high camp at 15,400'. We will attempt to climb Edurne Peak in a few days. Tomorrow or perhaps the next day, three climbing Sherpa and two other team members will head back up to our high camp and begin putting up fixed line on the route. The entire route will be fixed from high camp. If they decide there is not enough rope or it is not possible, we will not climb. The team as a whole does not have enough experience to climb without the fixed line. The rest of the team will rest and do some training at basecamp tomorrow. Fingers crossed the weather remains good and the route can safely go. Namaste, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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