Entries from Ecuador

We awoke to a perfectly clear night and were on the move by just after 1am on Friday.  The first section of the climb, which is often a trail through pebble scree was covered in a perfectly hard, thin layer of snow.  In fact, conditions on the entire route were near perfect.  We followed La Ruta Antigua due to crevasse conditions on the more standard route.  Shortly after sunrise we were walking up La Arista de Yanasacha, staring down the final headwall and trying to catch our breaths above 18500'.  Upon reaching the summit, we were rewarded with 360 degree views of the highlands of Ecuador including numerous other active and dormant stratovolcanoes.  Everyone did their standard summit rituals, ate a favorite snack, took some pictures and headed down.  This team made quick work of the descent and we were eating pancakes at the hut by a normal breakfast hour. 

Thanks to all the members of this team for showing up ready to climb and thank you to you all for following along with our travels!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team

When we arrived in Ecuador last weekend it had been rainy for weeks on end.  Even the first couple days of this trip were quite stormy in the afternoons.  But over the last couple days the patterns have been changing for the better.  This morning we leave the Chilcabamba Eco Lodge and have our fingers crossed for one more day of good weather!  Tomorrow is the main event, Cotopaxi summit day, and the excitement is palpable.  Looking out the main window of the dining room at Chilcabamba we can see the summit of Cotopaxi and most of the route.

Included in the pictures are a couple from Iliniza Norte yesterday and one of Cotopaxi from the back porch at Chilcabamba.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

November 2, 2021 - 6:33 am PT

Yesterday we did our first serious acclimatizing by hiking Rucu Pichincha.  It is a fun hike that includes a gondola ride to 13,000' where we began our ascent to Rucu Pichincha, with an official summit elevation of 15354'.  The entire team made it to the summit after a few hours of hiking and a short scramble.  We then hustled down to avoid the afternoon rains and arrived back at the gondola before getting wet.  This morning we are headed to Iliniza to make a summit attempt on Iliniza Norte tomorrow!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

The members of the team arrived safely in Quito and ventured out yesterday for a city tour of Quito.  The first (and generally favorite) stop on the tour was at the Mitad del Mundo museum, which means "middle of the world".  This museum is located on the equatorial line and the tour guides give us a review of some 8th grade science (which it seems we have all forgotten).  At an elevation greater than 9,000' we are already getting our breathing in check and today are looking forward to a warm-up hike on Rucu Pichincha!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Our Ecuador Volcanoes team is excited to have reached the summit of Cotopaxi this morning around 7:30 am.  The entire team climbed strong and efficiently.  We are packing up now ready to head towards Quito.  More to follow.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

On The Map

Hello from the Cotopaxi hut, situated at 16,000' on the northern slopes of this incredible mountain.   At least I think we are on Cotopaxi?  Yesterday the mountain shone bright and crisp, the sky cloudless and calm.  Exactly what we were hoping for today.  

But staying true to form, all that enticing weather, beckoning us to climb lasted all of two hours and by 11 am yesterday morning the mountain was gone and we haven’t seen it since.   Through on and off rain we prepared our packs this morning hoping things would clear.   At 1 pm we had left Chilcabamba with cloudy but dry conditions.  By 2:15 we were in the parking lot 500 vertical feet below the hut in a complete downpour.  Not to mention the fog was so thick we couldn’t see the other side of the lot.  

So what gives?  I am listening to rain hit the roof and the fog surround us like a haunting cape.  We will try to climb anyway.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

On The Map

Last night we arrived at Chilcabamba Eco Lodge situated ten miles to the north of Cotopaxi, our final mountain object for this adventure.  This morning we had a crystal clear view of this beautiful peak and of the actual climbing route visible with binoculars.  After yesterday, we are all chomping at the bit to get a second shot at going high.  I’m just hoping the mountain gods quit goofing around and make our climbing and our decision making a bit less strenuous.

During the last three weeks, Dustin and I have attempted four big peaks with only one of them giving us a clear green light.  The three previous attempts, two on Cayambe and one on Chimborazo, could best be described as a devious poker game where you are constantly dealt a low grade two pair and going all in on that isn’t the risk you want to take.  But it isn’t outright horrible either.  Just one more card, one more bet, maybe the odds will turn.  We have folded in the name of safety but the questions still linger.  Could we have gone higher?  Yesterday I wasn’t ready to fold but the next bet came at a cost.  Through pure determination and a bit of luck we squeaked it out but those aren’t the hands you want to have to bet on day in and day out.  Let’s hope tomorrow that Cotopaxi deals us the hand as it did last time.  

Gambling aside, this day was a well needed reprieve from the continuous ride we have been on the last week.  Fifteen minutes ago one of our faithful staff stalled into my room, lit a fire and asked if I needed anything.  “Not at the moment,“ I replied, things for now are pretty much perfect.

Tonight we will pack for our climb ahead and enjoy one more night's rest before heading up hill again.  We will touch base tomorrow.

Please enjoy some photos from our Cayambe summit day.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Our Ecuador Volcanoes team is pleased to announce that we reached the summit of Cayambe, Ecuador’s third highest peak, this morning at 9:30 am.  

Unfortunately we were dealt a messy hand fist thing when an electrical storm descended onto our team at 15,800 feet.  With axes, ski poles and any other metal object literally glowing from the static electricity, we had no choice but to retrace our hour long start and return to the hut. With hopes almost dashed, I suggested a second round but the caveat was we needed to move fast and efficiently putting high demands on those willing. With a long stretch already under our belts, only three climbers opted to try again. Through a full white out, many crevasses,  tired legs and burning lungs, all three made it to the top!  No matter who went and who didn’t, everyone made the right call.  

After a long drive back to town and a great late lunch we are all headed towards a rest day. We are all healthy and in good spirits. stay tuned for tomorrow’s rest day excitement.   

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier, Adam Knoff and Team.

On The Map

Hello friends, family and all other followers!  The team is currently at Refugio Ruales Oleas Bergé, situated at 15,100’ on the SW flank of Volcán Cayambe.  We arrived yesterday afternoon in good spirits after pushing through a few downpours on the 4x4 truck ride to the hut.  A late dinner was accompanied by tales of past climbs and some impromptu mountain trivia.  Other teams in the hut were prepping for a summit bid, we headed to bed early and wished them good luck.

This morning we woke up to some fresh snow and in and out of a cloud.  No big deal, our primary goal was to get to the toe of the glacier and do some skills training.  Our review of climbing skills was a success, the guides looked at each other in astonishment as literally every team member performed a textbook team arrest position on the first try!

Weather-wise it has been a pretty good day, giving us high hopes for tonight’s climb.  The team is fit and seems to be acclimating well, tonight will be the true test!

RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Dustin Wittmier

On The Map

Yesterday as our team of acclimating, moth parenting, cloud touching gringos strolled up Rucu Pichincha, a storm was unleashing 40 miles to the south.  In Espanol they might say it was raining perros y gatos, but luckily we never felt a drop.  Ever since the team arrived, our weather has been a bit squirley leaving us to wonder if we might actually get wet somewhere along the line.  

As we packed Victor’s magic bus today, the clouds swirled above but not as noisily as the traffic around us.  Forty-five minutes after departing our gracious hotel hosts, we gathered speed around a four lane roundabout and were literally shot out of the city like something breaking free from a strange orbit.  Three hours and 50 miles later we found ourselves at a beautiful crater lake named Largo Mojanda.  As Americans we want to pronounce this with a true "j" sound, making this lake sound like some kind of volcanic jelly, but in Espanol, the "j" sounds like an "h" and the "o" is long giving it a more majestic feel. 

The mountains we climbed don’t take as much tutoring to figure out.  Fuya Fuya is the name of the twin peaks we ascended leaving only images and not so much phonetics to the imagination.  Much like yesterday, the weather held and we were blessed with another summit and beautiful vistas of the deep blue lake and surrounding peaks.  The climbing wasn’t difficult but watching Jerome plunge into the frigid water was.  When he asked me it it was okay to swim, I looked at him and said, “I don’t know, is it?”  I certainly wasn’t risking my skin against fresh water volcanic flesh eating trout.  He went in but came out quicker. 

From the lake we descended the bumpy cobble road to our favorite lunch spot and then to the hacienda for some rest, packing and preparing for tomorrow’s big move to 15,000' on the flanks of Cayambe.  This is a big jump so wish us luck.  But, before we go to the mountain we will go shopping!  All faithful blog followers get a gift.  

Stay tuned.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff