Alpamayo Expedition: Elias and Team Return from the Mountains

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 25, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 10,000'

Greetings from Huaraz!

The team finished the expedition yesterday, arriving safe and sound to the capital of the Ancash district of Peru, but also the capital of Andean climbing. Our descent to the trail head at Cashapampa, with the help of horses, was an extraordinary experience. We took our time to enjoyed for the last time the views of the massively snow fluted peaks and turquoise lakes down valley. Right on time for a shower and a celebratory dinner, the arrival at the hotel marked the end of our climbing adventure. We’ll spend the day today relaxing in Huaraz and enjoying a Pachamanca, typical Peruvian meal cooked underground, with our local guide and outfitter’s family, before packing for tomorrow’s departure to Lima and flights back home.
Thanks to all for following and cheering for this team during our climb! We just say bye now until next year’s expedition, wishing best of luck to Geoff’s Schellens’ team, who’s currently starting the 2nd RMI Alpamayo climb this season.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The streets of Huaraz, Peru.  Photo: Eric Frank

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Mt. Rainier: July 25th Update

Posted by: Brent Okita, Pete Van Deventer | July 25, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Brent Okita and Peter Van Deventer did not reach the summit this morning.  The teams left Camp Muir at about 1:00 am in full hard shell layers, but it was not match for the weather. The team made the decision to turn at Ingraham Flats. They will be departing Camp Muir at around 8:30 this morning and be back in Ashford in the early afternoon. 

Congratulations to today’s teams!


Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Reach Llama Corral

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | July 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 12,300'

Today we made our first steps towards Alpamayo. After an early start from Huaraz we drove north for about three hours with the entire Cordillera Blanca Range glistening in the morning light. Truly spectacular. After reaching Cashapampa, we disembarked from our van, met our cook and helped load the donkey with our gear for the trip. Finally the whole expedition starts. Excitement was high as we began our approach to base camp. The first hour and a half of the hike was up steep switchbacked terrain after which it mellowed and became a gradual meandering trail up the Santa Cruse Valley. Our camp tonight is called Llama Corral, 12,300 feet, and about halfway up the valley. Tomorrow we should reach base camp by early afternoon.

The team is doing very well, everyone is climbing strong, staying healthy, and excited for what’s to come.

Thanks for following along with us!

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team

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1

Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Finish with Spectacular Game Viewing in Tarangire National Park

Posted by: Casey Grom | July 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Kilimanjaro

Jambo from Africa everyone!

We have had an exciting last two days as we made our way to Tarangire National Park, known for their abundance of elephants, and we weren’t disappointed.
Yesterday we spent about four hours driving through the park which is mostly a savannah with a river running through it. We saw hundreds of elephants and more giraffes than I’ve ever seen, and plenty of other wildlife too.

We spent the night out in the African bush in a remote tented camp called Kakoti that overlooks Tarangire Park.
We arrived to watch the beautiful sunset one last time and then enjoyed yet another wonderful meal.

Today we finished our safari with a drive back through Tarangire where some of the team caught a glimpse of a leopard as it crossed the road before it disappeared again. There were plenty of elephants again and everyone enjoyed our last day as we made our way back to the Dik Dik Lodge before quick showers and then it was off to the airport.

Thanks for following!

RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

Elephant mama and baby at Tarangire National Park, Africa. Photo: Casey Grom An abundance of giraffes were seen at Tarangire National Park, Africa. Photo: Casey Grom Kikoti Camp, Africa safari. Photo: Jeff Martin

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Mt. Rainier: July 24th Update

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Tyler Reid, Mike King | July 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Summit!

The Mount Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Dave Hahn and Tyler Reid, were leaving the crater rim at 7:30 this morning. Dave reported great conditions: clear and sunny, with light winds.

Mike King and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons are returning to Base Camp today after a successful summit via the Emmons Glacier.

Sunrise from Camp Schurman, Mount Rainier. Photo: Mike King
2

Alpamayo: Elias & Team Back at Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,270'

We are back at the comfort of lower elevations, the meals of our cook Emilio, and the safety of the Andean meadow in which it sits. Our summit climb yesterday was incredible; mainly because of the climbing ability of our climbers, (providing the fastest and most efficient one this guide has had) but also because the weather, conditions and surroundings. We had the mountain to ourselves, which contributed too. This morning, we had to drag our feet out of Camp 2, since a whiteout engulfed us upon waking up. The weather gave us a break and without hesitation, we started our descent to BC. We know we’re not done till we dismount our horses tomorrow at the trailhead, but our sense of accomplishment makes us believe so; we have climbed, arguably and according to many, the most beautiful mountain in the world. We’re going now to rest that thought in the warmth of the first night not on the glacier in a few days, and let you know all about it tomorrow from our hotel.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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4

Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Acclimatization Hike in Huaraz

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | July 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,000'

This morning we woke up around 7:00 gathered for a delicious breakfast with lots of coffee and packed a small day pack. Today’s mission: a short acclimatization hike just outside of Huaraz. Shortly after breakfast we loaded in to the shuttle and drove about 40 minutes out of town to the trailhead at just over 12,000 feet. Starting out in the rolling foothills were stunning snow-capped peaks looming above us. We couldn’t contain our excitement and began hiking too fast. Quickly we realized our error and settled into a reasonable pace. A few hours later we found ourselves at the beautiful Laguna Churup, 14,000 feet, where Don and Jesse promptly went swimming. We relaxed by the amazing alpine lake eating lunch and taking photos before descending back to our shuttle. This afternoon we will rest at our hotel, do a little shopping in town and enjoy another delicious dinner before hitting the trail tomorrow.

Everyone is doing well and spirits are high. Thanks for following along with us on this amazing adventure!

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Schellens & team hike to Laguna Churup in Peru. Photo: Geoff Schellens

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1

Mt. Rainier: July 23rd Summit!

Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Mike Uchal, Mike King | July 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker and Mike Uchal reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The teams reported a perfect day of climbing with light winds and sunny skies.

RMI Guide Mike King and his Expeditions Skills Seminar team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Emmons Route this morning. They will descend back to Camp Schurman and spend some more time training on the mountain before returning to Rainier Basecamp tomorrow.

Congratulations to today’s teams!

Approaching the Emmons Glacier. RMI Photo Collection
8

Alpamayo Expeditions: Schellens and Team Arrive in Lima, Peru

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | July 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 10,000'

Hi all,
The whole team arrived in Lima late last night for our Alpamayo Expedition. We gathered for breakfast this morning at the hotel and excitement is running high. Shortly after breakfast we packed and loaded our van for the long drive to Huaraz. Huaraz is a beautiful town in the foothills of the Cordillera Blanca at 10,000’ surrounded by stunning peaks. After arriving at our hotel we met our Peruvian guide, William, and discussed some logistics for the up coming days, spent some time relaxing, and had a fantastic dinner. Tomorrow we will go for a short hike before resting and packing for the approach.

Thanks for following along with us,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

The view of the Cordillera Blanca mountains over the rooftops of Huaraz, Peru.  Photo: RMI Collection

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5

Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Complete Their Adventure in Russia

Posted by: JJ Justman | July 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Elbrus Southside

We enjoyed our last evening in St. Petersburg with an early dinner and a boat cruise through the canals of this beautiful city.
Thanks to our group for a great climb of Mt. Elbrus and a wonderful adventure in Russia.

Until next time,
RMI Guide JJ Justman

Cruising through the canals of St. Petersburg, Russia. Photo: Linden Mallory The lights of St. Petersburg, Russia.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Previous Page More Entries

Expedition Stats

Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - 13,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/17 - 5/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine
5/8 - 5/18/2015
The Munchkin - Summit / The Throne - Lost Marsupial - Summit / Big Arapiles - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/14 - 5/24/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/24 - 5/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/28 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/29 - 6/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/5 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/12 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/31 - 6/5/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/3 - 6/6/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/7/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/5 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/6 - 6/9/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/19 - 6/7/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/5 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/7 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/8 - 6/11/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/12/2015
Mt. Rainier - 14,410'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/10 - 6/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/14/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/12 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/15 - 6/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/14 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/16 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/17 - 6/20/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/21/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/26 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mt. McKinley Upper West Rib Expedition
5/28 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/20 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/22 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/20 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/2 - 6/21/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/23 - 6/26/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/22 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
6/22 - 6/27/2015
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/26 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,400'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/27 - 6/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/28 - 7/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/26 - 7/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/29 - 7/2/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Emmons Climb
6/29 - 7/3/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/30 - 7/3/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/26 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/9 - 6/28/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/1 - 7/4/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
7/1 - 7/4/2015
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/2 - 7/5/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/2 - 7/6/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/4 - 7/7/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/3 - 7/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/5 - 7/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/4 - 7/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/6 - 7/9/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
7/5 - 7/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/7 - 7/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/16 - 7/6/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/8 - 7/11/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/9 - 7/12/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/10 - 7/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
7/5 - 7/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
6/16 - 6/29/2015
Cayambe - 17,500' / Illiniza Norte - 16,000' / Cotopaxi - Summit
Ecuador's Volcanoes
6/30 - 7/10/2015
Cayambe - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/10 - 7/14/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/11 - 7/14/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru
6/27 - 7/12/2015
Nevado Urus - Summit / Ishinca - Summit / Nevado Copa - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
7/9 - 7/12/2015
Forbidden Peak - 6,200'
Mount McKinley Custom Expedition
6/23 - 7/13/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/12 - 7/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/11 - 7/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/13 - 7/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/14 - 7/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
7/12 - 7/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb - ALA Climb for Clean Air
7/15 - 7/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Forbidden Peak
7/14 - 7/19/2015
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari
7/5 - 7/19/2015
Kilimanjaro - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/16 - 7/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/16 - 7/20/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
7/18 - 7/20/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Sahale Mountain - Quien Sabe Glacier
7/17 - 7/19/2015
Sahale Mountain - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/17 - 7/20/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/18 - 7/21/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount Elbrus
7/10 - 7/22/2015
Mt. Elbrus - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/19 - 7/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/18 - 7/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
7/17 - 7/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/20 - 7/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/19 - 7/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/21 - 7/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/22 - 7/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari
7/11 - 7/25/2015
Kilimanjaro - Summit
Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys
7/22 - 7/24/2015
Mt. Shuksan - Summit
Alpamayo Expedition
7/12 - 7/27/2015
Alpamayo - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/23 - 7/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/24 - 7/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/25 - 7/28/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Forbidden Peak
7/24 - 7/26/2015
Forbidden Peak - 6,800'
Five Day Summit Climb
7/25 - 7/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/26 - 7/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/24 - 7/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/27 - 7/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
7/26 - 7/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit

Recent Images

  • Summit day on Alpamayo, Peru.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Entering the Saddle on Mount Elbrus summit day. Photo: Linden Mallory
  • Mount Elbrus' summit ridge. Photo: Linden Mallory
  • Climbing Kilimanjaro from Shira Camp to the Barranco Valley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers on a acclimatization hike to Pastuhkova Rocks at 15,100 ft on Mt. Elbrus, Russia. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Alpamayo from Col Camp (17,880'). Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • The Baksan Valley from Mt. Elbrus, Russia. Photo: RMI Collection
  • RMI Climbers on the rocky ridge leading to the Shira Plateau on Kilimanjaro. Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • RMI Climbers on the crater rim of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The start of the Trek on Mount Kilimanjaro. RMI Photo Collection
  • The Dik Dik Hotel rooms and grounds.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Kilimanjaro Team gathering for dinner at the Dik Dik Hotel, Tanzania. Photo: Casey Grom
  • Looking through the clouds at the mountains above Cheget, Russia. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers descending from Camp Comfort back to the top of Disappointment Cleaver.  Photo: Pete Van Deventer
  • Mules, getting some of the hard work done on the approach to Aconcagua Base Camp.   Katrina Bloemsma
  • The mass of Cerro Aconcagua looms over a team approaching Aconcagua Base Camp in the Relinchos Valley.   Katrina Bloemsma
  • The greater Andean Range stretches out as far as the eye can see at Chopper Camp, 18,000'.   Katrina Bloemsma
  • Moscows Red Square.  Photo: Linden Mallory
  • St. Basils Cathedral, Moscow, Russia. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Following the trail to Base Camp on Alpamayo, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • The streets of Huaraz, Peru.  Photo: Eric Frank
  • Elephant mama and baby at Tarangire National Park, Africa. Photo: Casey Grom
  • An abundance of giraffes were seen at Tarangire National Park, Africa. Photo: Casey Grom
  • Kikoti Camp, Africa safari. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • Sunrise from Camp Schurman, Mount Rainier. Photo: Mike King
  • Schellens & team hike to Laguna Churup in Peru. Photo: Geoff Schellens
  • Approaching the Emmons Glacier. RMI Photo Collection