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RMI Expeditions Blog


Alaska Seminar: Team Practices Crevasse Rescue and Avalanche Forecasting

May 17, 2016 - 9:52 p.m. PDT

While we had hoped for sunny warm skies, we were delivered a snowy cloudy morning. After a nice pancake breakfast we set out to do some training in the area. Avalanche education and crack rescue took up our entire day and folks picked up the skills pretty quickly. The clouds lifted long enough for us to drop a few folks into the hole and let their teammates pull them out. That certainly was a comical and educational experience for the team. Just before dinner the temps dropped off significantly and it started to snow again. Seems to be a bit manic weather here at 7000’ but everyone is rolling with it in style. Tomorrow we hope to move up glacier for some exploring.

Stay tuned,
RMI Guide Leon Davis & Team


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take a Snow Day

May 17, 2016 - 6:02 p.m. PDT

We declared a snow day today. We woke to what could be described as a heavy fall of snow, and our hopes of heading uphill diminished. An hour later as we ate breakfast, the sky cleared, the sun came out, and our hopes rose. Just as quickly, the clouds, snow, and blustery gusts returned, and convinced us that today was a day to remain indoors. And so we have, napping, snacking, reading, and watching movies. The weather hasn’t relented either, reinforcing our decision. The low pressure that seems to be moving over us is hinting at moving out over the next few days, so we hope that tomorrow gives us a better opportunity to head up to Windy Corner and cache. In the meantime, we’ll take the opportunity to rest up and get ready for another round of big days. All for now from snowy 11 Camp.

Thanks for following!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, and Jess Matthes, and team

On The Map

Hipp hipp hurra, ha den äran idag käre Thomas!! Happy Birthday!!
Grattis från hela familjen här hemma.
Äppelträden blommar, små vackra blommor kommer upp i gräsmattan…sommaren är på väg efter några svalare dagar.
Önskar Dig en fin dag och fortsatt upplevelserik expedition! Mycket mod, kraft och kärlek, älskar Dig.

Posted by: Sinikka on 5/19/2016 at 6:50 am

It has been a miserable few days in the east, Weather 46-54 and drizzle, You guys surrounded by visual splendor are in the right zip code. Saying some prayers to pull your nasty weather away! Go git’em, when it’s right! Happy Trails Lisa! - Greg

Posted by: Greg Hurley on 5/19/2016 at 3:55 am


Mt. Rainier: Muir Seminar Training at Ingraham Flats

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir is enjoying wonderful weather on Mt. Rainier today. The team is spending the day training at Ingraham Flats at 11,200’. Ingraham Flats is a relatively flat section (hence the name) of the Ingraham Glacier that climbing parties often use for a camp when climbing Mt. Rainier. The team will head back to Camp Muir for their second night on the mountain.


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Cache Supplies above Fixed Lines

May 17, 2016 - 12:29 a.m. PDT

I woke up at the chilly hour of 5:00 a.m. to start the stoves. It was a perfectly clear morning with barely a breath of wind. After a hearty breakfast we packed our backpacks with supplies to cache up above the fixed ropes. We started climbing in the shade, as the sun still had not poked out around the West Rib. The cold temps were perfect for climbing and we warmed up quickly. After an hour and a thousand feet of vertical gain, the sun welcomed us at our first break.

We continued climbing and employed our mechanical ascenders to aid us up the fixed ropes. A couple hours later we were on top of the West Buttress proper. The team climbed hard today and we accomplished our goals, with one team putting a cache in below Washburn’s Thumb (16,700’), and the other team pushing on to high camp (17,200’) to establish a cache. We’re all back at camp and in our sleeping bags now after a long day of climbing. A much deserved rest day awaits us tomorrow.

RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team

This is for all of you…......


” In a sense everything that is exists to climb.  All evolution is a climbing towards a higher form.
  Climbing for life as it reaches towards the consciousness, towards the spirit.  We have always
  honored the high places because we sense them to be homes of gods.  In the mountains there
  is the promise of… something unexplainable.  A higher place of awareness, a spirit that soars.
  So we climb… and in climbing there is more than a metaphor;  there is a means of discovery.”

                                                              —Anonymous

(Love you Blake!)

Posted by: Maria Votilla on 5/18/2016 at 8:01 am

Hello Rob.. Unbelievable accomplishment! So excited and proud for you and the team! You all have accomplished so much and looking forward to pictures from the summit!! Enjoy the much deserved rest.  Continue to be strong! We are all cheering you and the team on to the summit! Take care! Be safe, Love, Mom, Dad and Katie

Posted by: Robert & Toni Caldwell on 5/18/2016 at 4:36 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Retrieve Cache

May 16, 2016 - 11:45 p.m. PDT

We woke this morning from a deep, deep night of sleep to sunny skies and a thin coat of snow over everything that sparkled brilliantly white. It was a gorgeous morning that energized everyone as they glanced up at Denali, down the Kahiltna, and across at Foraker. We had a leisurely breakfast of hash browns and eggs, listening to teams pack and walk out for carries to Windy Corner or moves to 14. We eventually made our own move, returning to our cache of food and fuel at 10, and hauling it back up the hill to camp. We reviewed some climbing techniques that we’ll need above here, then crawled into the tents as the clouds crept up glacier to rest and relax. Tomorrow we hope to make our own carry up to Windy Corner if conditions allow. Until then, we’ll eat more food, tell some tall tales, and catch several more hours of deep, deep sleep.

Best from 11,

RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Robby, and Team

I love it when you talk about holing up to sleep and eat. It means your out of danger’s way. Windy Corner sounds uninviting. Wish there was a way around it. A mother is a mother, no matter the age of the child.

Be safe!!!!

Posted by: leanne fosbre on 5/17/2016 at 3:58 pm

We’ll keep sending those good weather vibes your way, especially for Windy Corner!!! Keep up the great work everyone!

Posted by: Patrice La Vigne on 5/17/2016 at 2:53 pm


Alaska Seminar: Team Explores the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier

May 16, 2016 - 3:07 p.m. PDT


Hello Everyone,

Despite a bleak forecast we woke to sunny blue skies today. This morning the team ventured further up the SE fork for some glacier travel and exploring around Radio Tower. While Base Camp below was busy with planes dropping off more climbers we enjoyed a birds eye view of the lower Kahiltna, and a direct view of the north buttress of hunter. The air was hot and surrounding slopes reacted with constant wet slides and rockfall. Returning to camp was a sweltering affair, all of us sun baked by the relentless sun. Tomorrow we will stick around the area for some more skills training. We are still hoping for more of those sunny skies.

RMI Guide Leon Davis & Team


Mt. Rainier: Muir Seminar Heads Up

The RMI Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Walter Hailes checked in on their way to Camp Muir today. After climbing through the cloud deck, the team enjoyed blue skies the rest of the way to camp. The seminar teams will spend the rest of the week training at Camp Muir and will make a summit attempt from Camp Muir later in the week.

Can you post more team pictures? Sending awesome thoughts your way!!

Posted by: Sharyn B on 5/18/2016 at 9:59 am

Safety and success in your climb!  Go Bobby!

Posted by: Judy McCrary on 5/17/2016 at 1:35 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit

The Four Day Summit Climb teams lead by RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Nick Hunt reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning under clear skies and nice conditions. The teams began their descent from the crater rim shortly after 9 am en route to Camp Muir.  The teams will rest and re-pack then start their descent to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb teams!

Congratulations, Kaitlyn!!  Repping for team A! So proud of you ... let’s go again!

Posted by: Steve on 5/17/2016 at 5:45 am

Way to go, McLaughlin brothers.  Your Vermont cousins are so proud!  Yahooo!

Posted by: The Vermont Bangos on 5/16/2016 at 6:04 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Receive a Foot of Snow at 14,000 ft Camp

May 15, 2016 - 10:35 pm PT

The day started with our camp above the clouds deck and good views of Mt. Hunter and Foraker. After breakfast we headed downhill with empty packs to retrieve our cache at 13,700’. After a fifteen minute walk downhill and an hour back to camp, we are all set with all of our gear at 14k.
After we returned to camp, the clouds lifted and it began to snow. It snowed all afternoon, with about a foot of accumulation. As I write this dispatch from my sleeping bag tonight, there is blue sky above us. Hopefully the snow is done and tomorrow we can climb. We’re hoping to carry a cache of supplies up above the fixed ropes tomorrow, up above 16,00’.
We’ll touch base again tomorrow to let you know how it goes, thanks for following our trip.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Absolutely beautiful pictures.  Glad for all information.  Cheers to the team.

Posted by: Donna on 5/16/2016 at 4:57 pm

Hi Rogan and team, well done, it’s been marvellous following your trip. Congrats so far!

Rogue your beautiful wife is fine, the op looks as if it was really successful and by the time I fetched her she had already walked and climbed stairs with the crutches. In fact she could probably climb Denali with a bit more practise!

You are well past the halfway mark, according to the map, one more stop and then the summit. Never give up! Ever! I didn’t with Wfm and that was also really difficult.

You trained so hard,  you are quite capable of reaching the summit, your Angels are with you!
I’m so looking forward to seeing all your photos.

I suppose you know that 4 guys reached the top of Everest, the first in two full years!

I wish the blue skies remain, you must be sick of snow by now?  Focus on the wonderful scenery, not seen by many, it’s such a privilege you are experiencing.

Hope you all have a great climb tomorrow, it will be different by the looks of things. Good luck and vasbyt!
Love you so much, mom xx

Posted by: Daphne Carew on 5/16/2016 at 1:36 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Check in from 11,200 ft Camp

May 16, 2016 - 1:31 am PT

Howdy to everybody from 11,200 feet! We had a great move up the Kahiltna, experiencing every type of weather along the way: smoking hot sun, thin clouds that turned on the microwave, thicker clouds that cooled us off, snow with wind, and finally snow without wind. Despite all of that, our travels were very smooth, and we walked into camp in the late afternoon. Move days are a lot of work; not just the climbing, but once at camp, we have to construct a whole new camp with platforms, walls, and kitchen. All told it’s a lot of digging and a lot of snow to move, but this crew’s teamwork was exemplary, and with a couple of hours of pounding away, we have a solid new place to call home for a few days. We’ll say hi tomorrow,

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Jess Matthews and team

On The Map

Well done team ,looks like ur making good progress moving on up to ur next plattoe it looks awesome from up there the team looks like they r enjoying this venture be safe, keep us all posted, ur friends from “The Downs"xo

Posted by: Joe&Patty; on 5/17/2016 at 3:20 am

Good job! You’ve got a lot of people rooting for the team from Denver! That’s a lot of snow. I guess you better get used to it! Keep on trekking and good luck. I know the team can accomplish its goal!

Posted by: Jamie on 5/16/2016 at 7:57 pm

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