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RMI Expeditions Blog


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Tucker & Team Summit El Pico de Orizaba!

A big and successful day for the RMI Mexico team. A fifteen-hour summit day on Pico de Orizaba. We woke up to perfect weather. Right out of the gate it is steep. No new snow at 14,000' so it was dirt and rock to start. After about an hour we entered a crazy area called the labyrinth. Such exciting terrain winding through gully after gully with mixed moderate climbing. We put on the crampons as the snow got firmer adding to the fun and excitement of the climb. Still dark with the beautiful moon we arrived at the base of the glacier. Ropes, ice axe and all the other toys that a prudent mountaineer hauls up hill were part of the next phase. Long and pretty darn steep at that point. Snow conditions were perfect and not much wind. As the sun rose, imagine the shadow cast on the surface of the Earth by this monolithic monster of a volcano. What a sight. Keeps me coming back for more. The team did an outstanding job up and down. The team is sleepy but still lots to do here at the historic old soap factory, which is our digs for the night. RMI Guide Mark Tucker


RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls from the Orizaba summit!

On The Map

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Team at Piedra Grande, High Camp of Orizaba

Buenos tardes! Today we made the journey to Tlachichuca where the great Sr. Reyes lives. Sr. Reyes runs Servimont, the guide service we use to get to Piedra Grande by 4X4 trucks. The compound to which he runs his operation was once a soap factory. One of the drums used in the process to make the soap came from Philadelphia. But enough with the history lesson and back to the climbing. Once we arrived in Tlachichuca we were down to business, doing yet another gear shuffle. We packed our bags, ate a delicious lunch, and boarded the 4X4 trucks. A two-hour drive up a very bumpy and steep road brought us to Piedra Grande which sits at roughly 14,000'. We were in and out of the clouds while we pitched our tents and got settled in. Before eating dinner we had a refresher course of our skills for the climb. With fully tummies of probably the best rotisserie chicken we had ever had, we are off to get some shut eye before an early alpine start. Hopefully the next time you here from us we will be cal ling in from the summit. Till then, good night to all, RMI Guides Mark Tucker, Hannah Smith, and team
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Looks awesome! Good luck, stay strong!

Posted by: Paul Lawrence on 11/14/2016 at 7:11 am

Good luck to all! I know you have it in ya dad!

Posted by: Kate denver on 11/12/2016 at 7:27 pm


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Tucker & Team Sightseeing in Puebla

Mole Mole Mole! Hey all! Our rest day in Puebla was a day of choosing your own adventure. For some it started with a nostalgic breakfast at McDonalds. The team spent their day exploring all that Puebla had to offer from the beautiful and impressive cathedrals to strolling the Mercado el Parian to buying some souvenirs to drooling over climbing gear at Origenes Puebla. Bellies were filled plump full with authentic cuisines, most notably the delicious mole poblano. The team even gave fried crickets a try, to which the consensus was it tasted like popcorn. It has been a fun filled day, but now we are ready and psyched to hop aboard the bus and head to Tlachichuca where we will pack up for Piedre Grande on Orizaba. Buenos noche, RMI Guides Mark Tucker, Hannah Smith, and team
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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Team Unable to Summit Ixta, Descends to Puebla

Hola mis amigos! El equipo esta todo marcado...oh sorry wrong language. Hey all! The team is all checked in to the Hotel Colonial Puebla. Today started with an early wake up at 2:30am in hopes to go to the summit of Ixta, but was thwarted by relentless clouds, snow, and wind. After numerous checks out the vestibule for a break in the weather, we settled in for a casual morning of hot drinks and breakfast, followed by a break down of camp. Our hike out was among the clouds but still very beautiful and enjoyable. With a reshuffle of gear and farewells to our local guide Carlos, our two porters Daniel and Jose, and our favorite driver Rogelio, we loaded the bus. One bathroom break, a movie, and many bumps later, we arrived in Puebla. Tonight we will meet for another delicious dinner and tomorrow we will spend our day exploring Puebla and relaxing. Hasta luego, RMI Guides Mark Tucker, Hannah Smith, and Team
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Sorry about that! Good luck dad!

Posted by: Kate on 11/11/2016 at 7:27 am

Sorry about that! Good luck dad!

Posted by: Kate on 11/11/2016 at 7:27 am


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Tucker and Team at High Camp on Ixta

Hey- We are checking in from High Camp on Ixtaccihuatl. We had pretty good conditions coming up and getting our big loads up to camp. We have been here about four hours acclimatizing at 12,000'. As we pulled in, the weather came in we had a little bit of a lightning event that went over. It wasn't a big deal as we already had camp set up. Then the sun broke through for a little while and we were able to get in a little training to get us ready for tonight. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Tucker & Team at Altzomoni Hut

Nap time at 13,000+. Team is doing great! Said goodbye to La Malinche this morning and hello to the mountain Ixtaccihuatl (The Sleeping Woman ). A four-hour drive has brought us to a nice hut. Our local staff made us a fantastic dinner so we are well taken care of and fired up for an early morning ascent to our high camp. Loads are reasonable but not light. Weather has been a bit unsettled but not bad. Lots of gear shuffling and we are looking prepared. All is well. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Mountaineering Training | Improving Fat Oxidation

This is the second of a two part series looking at the benefits of improving rates of fat metabolism to prevent or delay bonking in endurance sports. For week one of the series, click here.

Last week, we introduced the idea of training or developing fat metabolism to preserve glycogen stores, utilize our body’s largest energy store, and ultimately prevent “bonking” while climbing. This week we’ll look at how to accomplish it!

There are two main components that we can alter to affect our body’s use of fat: diet and training. The two work hand in hand – a change in diet without a focus on aerobic training volume is of little use, as anaerobic workouts require glycogen by definition, and aerobic training volume while continuing to eat a high carbohydrate diet will cause little change in your body’s metabolic pathways.

Diet

The key to training fat metabolism is to adjust your diet to take in more calories from fat than carbohydrates. This doesn’t mean you need to take in more calories overall, but instead, shift the nutritional balance of your diet. These diets have taken on the moniker LCHF or low carb high fat in studies and the media. There are a number of specific diets out there that align with this description (the paleo diet, the Atkins diet) but the specific diet is less important for the purposes of an athlete than the nutritional balance. Some articles suggest about 15% of your daily calories coming from carbohydrates, which is a significant shift for those of us that have trained under the paradigm of carbohydrate loading!

Changing our diet to make carbohydrates more scarce, and fats more plentiful accomplishes several things that will ultimately help our fat oxidation rates. The first is that when sugar is present in the bloodstream at high levels, insulin is released to control rates of blood sugar—extremely high rates of blood sugar are treated as a toxin by the body—and consequently insulin is a fat oxidation inhibitor, as the body wants to burn off the excess sugar and uses the opportunity. If we keep our levels of blood sugar lower with diet, our body releases less insulin, and fat oxidation rates are not suppressed.

Second, while sugar is easily transported across cell membranes and into cells, fats require transport by specific enzymes. Reducing our blood sugar and allowing fat oxidation to take place stimulates the production of these fat transport enzymes, so that fat can be brought into the cells at higher rates and utilized.

Finally, mitochondria are responsible for oxidizing fat and producing the ATP that fuel our cells. By reducing our carbohydrate fuel and relying more on fat, we stimulate the growth of mitochondria in the cells. Studies of athletes that are efficient fat oxidizers vs. sugar burners show a significant increase in mitochondrial density in the muscle cells.

Training Type

Our body is able to burn fat as fuel during aerobic exercise – those workouts and efforts that stay at level 3 or below. Once we cross the anaerobic threshold into lactate production, glycogen is the only fuel source that the body uses for energy production, so the stimulus to oxidize fat is gone. Thus fat oxidation is best trained during an aerobic base or volume phase, when the preponderance of workouts focus on relatively lower intensity, higher volume (hours or miles).

This isn’t a process that can be changed overnight. The cellular development that is required to shift your metabolic pathways takes time and sustained stimulation to change. With dedication to diet and training, studies show marked improvement in rates of fat oxidation after 8 to 12 weeks, so stick with it!

It’s often tempting as athletes to take things too far: if more of something is better, even more of it must be better still. Fat oxidation alone isn’t enough to keep up with our energy demands when we are training heavily for a climb. Therefore, maintaining some carbohydrates in your diet is important. Think of it as replenishing the fuel you spend: a workout of harder intensity will deplete your glycogen stores more; a 4 hour workout will require some carbohydrate fuel intake during the workout to prevent depleting glycogen stores as well. For those who want to really dig into the numbers, Alan Couzens has a calculator for balancing your nutritional intake depending on the phase of your training plan, hours, etc. It is designed for ironman triathletes, but can provide some interesting numbers for us as climbers as well!

_____
For more reading Alan Couzens has a number of interesting blogs on the subject. A good one to start with is Improving Fat Oxidation. Also see Deborah Schulman's Fuel on Fat for the Long Run.

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

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I know this was posted some time ago, and it’s a good reminder get back to the low carb/ no sugar diet that I have done a few different times over the last couple of years.  However, I have a major question and challenge which is:

How to sustain this type of diet in the backcountry? 

I’ve had a few different foods that work, but the limitation of boiling water for heating/reheating food is a pretty big obstacle to doing this in backcountry settings (I’ve yet to do an actual ski mountaineering trip but it’s coming up).  Any tips there would be very welcome.

Thanks!

Posted by: Zachary Richmond on 1/16/2017 at 11:50 am

Regarding training for fellow
Flatlanders:
Find a hotel or office building that has a minimum of 10 stories but preferably 20-30 or more. Ask the manager for permission and train!
I will carry a weighted pack up the stairs and take the elevator down. I often wear my climbing double boots to simulate the real thing!
Enjoy!

Posted by: Eli Berko on 1/15/2017 at 5:40 pm


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Tucker & Team Acclimatize on La Malinche

Sunday, November 6, 2016 - 7:15 pm PT Hola - We are checking in from La Malinche, a beautiful park located a couple hours from Mexico City. After a beautiful hike thru the forest we broke out to amazing views and wild clouds in the start of the alpine environment. Our goal for the day was to stretch the legs, starting from our nice cabin at 10,000' we did just that. Some review of climbing technique, familiarizing ourselves with some new gear and dusting off some of the old made for a nice five hour jaunt in the hills. Great to see the team in good shape with no issues for the first foray of this expedition. A nice restaurant in the compound took good care of food needs and has us happy and fueled for a beautiful night in the mountains. RMI Guides Mark Tucker & Hannah Smith

On The Map

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Miss you all already! Loved meeting everyone - have fun!  Pam

Posted by: Pam on 11/7/2016 at 11:28 am

Following the climb - have a great time and climb safely!

Posted by: George on 11/7/2016 at 10:14 am


Mountaineering Training | Becoming Bonk Proof

Climbing is a long and demanding endeavor, with a typical summit day on Rainier or Denali stretching for twelve to fifteen hours. Every time you take a step, your muscles require energy in the form of ATP to be able to fire. ATP is created within the muscle cells by mitochondria from two main nutrients: carbohydrates and fat.

For many years, athletes have focused on their carbohydrate intake as the key to performance. Carbohydrates provide a readily accessible and easily digestible energy source for your body, which is the reason that they are the main content in most sports foods; just look at the labels of shot blocks, Gu’s, bars, energy drinks, and the like, and you will see a heavy focus on sugar. There is a good reason for this: your body has a limited ability to digest food while exercising (digestion requires energy of its own), and carbohydrates and sugars are the easiest to digest, requiring little to be done to the glucose components before they enter the bloodstream and are carried to the cells.

The main issue with a reliance on carbohydrates is that your body has the ability to store a finite supply of glucose in the muscle cells and the liver in the form of glycogen. For trained athletes that are efficient with their energy usage, that store still only lasts for about 2 hours of sustained hard effort. If you aren’t familiar with the term “bonking,” it’s that feeling when your performance drops off a cliff; you don’t feel like you are working that hard aerobically, but you can’t possibly go any faster or harder. You’ve run through those glycogen stores and your muscles are out of fuel. Eating while you exercise can help to delay bonking, but your body can only process about 250 Kcal of sugar per hour, far less than you expend over the same period. Even though we are replenishing our sugar fuel, we dip further and further into those reserves as summit day goes on. At the same time, even the leanest among us carries over 24 hours of energy in the form of fat stores. Wouldn’t it be nice to recruit those stores while you are climbing?

Fatty acids are the most energy dense nutrients in our diet and our body stores them readily. They create more ATP per unit than sugars, and our body’s ability to store them can leave us with a huge reserve energy supply. The problem is that when fatty acids and sugars are both present, our metabolisms preference burning the sugars for energy. Julia Goedecke is a sports scientist who has been examining the influence of fat oxidation (metabolism) in endurance athletes. In examining rates of fat oxidation in athletes at different intensity levels, she found a vast difference in overall rates of fat oxidation. Some burned nearly no fat at rest, while others metabolized nearly 100% fat at rest, but while there were differences in overall rates of fat metabolism, those who metabolized more fat at rest derived more of their energy from fat at all intensity levels too. This would suggest that if we can train our metabolism to derive a greater percentage of our energy from fat, it will continue to do that as we up our intensity climbing, and we will use our sugar reserves more slowly, and hopefully avoid the dreaded “bonk!”

Now that we’ve introduced the idea of developing your fat metabolism, stay tuned next week as we get into the details about how to accomplish it.

_____

For more reading Alan Couzens has a number of interesting blogs on the subject. A good one to start with is Improving Fat Oxidation.

Questions? Comments? Do you have experience applying LCHF nutrition to endurance sports? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

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I have climbed Mt. Rainier twice now.  The first time was not good.  I did not finish. I had misplaced a contact lense.  The second time was much better.  I was a lot stronger with the second climb.  It was a nice day and we all summited.  It was a very nice day.  I have climbed Mt. Hood and have climbed Mt Adams now.  Both were nice climbs. 

Posted by: Mark Brashem on 2/1/2022 at 5:03 pm

Those that burn more than “trace” amounts of fat while at rest or during strenuous output are fat adapted. They have gone through the process of fat adaptation by employing a lifestyle of Low Carb, Keto, etc. You don’t get there overnight and in fact some, despite their efforts, never attain it at all. And once your body becomes fat adapted, you have to maintain it too effectively utilize fat as energy. The use of a blood ketone meter is is good tool to monitor your level. That being said, the problem we face as Climbers, is how do we maintain a fat adapted state while travelling? Have you ever attempted to maintain the 75/20/5 (fat, protein, carb) ratio while in India, Pakistan, Nepal, etc? Good luck. Unless you have your food air-dropped in, or pull off the impossible and transport all of your food you will ingest over the next 4-6 weeks from home, you are stuck with noodles, rice, and junk food snacks, all high carb food, which once ingested, rocket you straight out of your fat adapted state. And back to square one. This dilemma is something i am struggling with for 2023 when i next travel to Asia. I know what i can do here on Whitney, Gorgonio and Jacinto while fat adapted and in ketosis, yes, lower elevations than Asia, but if i can some how figure out the food logistics for Asia, i will be Superman! Doesn’t look promising though.

Posted by: Al on 3/8/2021 at 9:54 am


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Team Descends from Orizaba

This is the RMI Mexico team back safely in town. We had a good descent from the summit of Orizaba. Our shuttle picked us up just as the clouds and rain began to set in. Stormy weather played a huge part of this trip, we are glad that the weather cleared for our successful summit this morning. The team is getting cleaned up and sorted for their flights home tomorrow. Thanks for following along. RMI Guides Mike King & Steve Gately
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