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RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: King & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp Hopeful for Break in Weather

Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 10:04 PM PT

Yup, just another weather day here at 14,000’ Camp on Denali. Snow and calm air the entire day. Breakfast was ate, coffee drank and cards played throughout the day in the Posh. We were hopeful this low pressure system was breaking up tomorrow. Instead it looks to be a Saturday to Monday window. We’ll wake up at 5 am and check the weather. Fingers crossed we can get to 17 camp and be on the summit Saturday.

RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wishing clear skies boys!  All the best, Yeagers

Posted by: Dave Yeager on 6/22/2018 at 7:16 pm


Woo hoo! Looks like you may get a break in the weather soon? No recent JT type 2 adventures to report.. Thinking of all you guys on the homestretch! Hopefully you’ll be on that summit soon. Hugs!


Posted by: Madeline Emmer on 6/22/2018 at 1:18 pm

Mt. Rainier: Van Deventer & Reid Summit!

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Pete Van Deventer and Tyler Reid, reached the summit this morning!  The guides reported the weather is perfect with no wind and a cloud deck around 7,500’.  Both teams began their descent around 7:45 a.m.

Congratulations to today summit climb teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Way to go Eamon, Colin, Elliot, and Noah! Woohoo! xo

Posted by: Erin Maureen O'Rourke on 6/21/2018 at 11:18 am

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

Wednesday, June 20, 2018—11:14 PM PT

As it turns out, the sun does still exist!! We saw it last night— well actually just the cold sunlight that reflected off the moon— but it was surrounded by bright blue sky and we finally got to see the gorgeousness of the landscape we’ve been inhabiting for days. 
We woke in a white out but made the move to 11,000’ Camp anyway, with the thought that we must be right at the top of the clouds. Sure enough, we were right! Our new home at 11,000’ welcomed us with sunshine to dry out our gear and allow for lounging not in a tent.  After a big burrito dinner we are fat and happy back in our sleeping bags, but this time they’re dry and our alarms aren’t set to wake up every hour for shoveling. Much love to all of you who care enough to listen in! Sending special birthday wishes to Cody, Lindsey’s brother!

With love,
RMI Super Crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I know the sunshine must have brightened your spirits and renewed your energy to keep on climbing..  Sounds like you all have a great, strong team.. Can hardly wait to hear from you again, you’re a fantastic group…. Love to you Lindsay and Matt..


Posted by: Barbara Jones on 6/22/2018 at 12:27 pm

Sorry we couldn’t connect yesterday, Glo! But so glad you are steadily getting higher. We had a solstice fire and we all thought of you on the cold and now sunny mountain. Love you to pieces.


Posted by: michelle on 6/22/2018 at 10:22 am

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 9:52 PM PT

This is one lucky team of climbers.  We woke in Talkeetna under cloudy skies… pretty much the same cloudy skies that had kept anybody else from flying during the past six days.  It sprinkled rain on us as we ventured out for breakfast but by the time we’d eaten, our pilots surprised us by announcing that basecamp was in the clear and that it was time to fly. 
We geared up, loaded the planes and lifted off by 9:15.  The ski equipped DeHaviland Otters got us through to Kahiltna Base Camp by about 10 AM.  Views while flying weren’t stupendous since there was still plenty of cloud hiding the big peaks, but as we got into the center of the range, the lower parts of the big peaks were stupendous enough in their own rite. Basecamp at 10 AM was a very busy and bustling place after a week of no-fly days.  Tyler Jones and his RMI team loaded onto the planes we vacated.  They’d finished a storm plagued trip and hadn’t been able to move to high camp or summit but they appeared happy and healthy just the same.  We built camp and spent the day reviewing glacier travel techniques and sorting gear and supplies.  The team seems pretty at home in this world already.  We’re hopeful this break in the weather will last… that said, now -at 9 PM- it is snowing lightly.  So much recent snow has sure been a good thing for healing up the lower glacier.  Word is that open crevasses are few and far between and sketchy bridges are scarce. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Job and Margaret, everyone back home is pulling for the two of you!  God speed!

Posted by: Frank Romano on 6/22/2018 at 6:51 am

Best of luck to Tom and the whole team—You all are awesome!

Posted by: Randy Salo on 6/22/2018 at 5:58 am

Denali Expedition: King & Team Went for a Walk Today

Wednesday, June 20th - 8:18 pm PT

We woke to clouds and snow at 14K Camp today. We were hoping for clear weather to make a carry to 17K Camp; unfortunately, the winds up high prevented us from getting on the fixed lines. We eventually went for a walk up towards 15,000’ to stretch our legs and lungs. The Team got a spectacular view of Genet Basin and the lower Kahiltna Glacier. We are back in camp now and continue to hang out at 14K. The forecast has been accurate for 17K and above but not so for 14K Camp. We’ll need to see decreasing winds up high to make our move and if we don’t get that in a few days the only option will be to descend.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Robby and Team—

Crossing my fingers for clear skies and a lull in the wind so you can keep moving up that mountain!

Rob, even in remote Alaska at 14,000’ , you made my birthday so special. Thank you <3


Posted by: Sharon Del Vecchio on 6/21/2018 at 6:40 pm

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Team Reaches Summit

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons June 16 - 21, 2018 led by RMI Guides Andy Bond, Alan Davis, Bryce Foster and Jenny Konway reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Emmons Glacier route.  Andy reported a beautiful day with low winds. They will return to Camp Schurman for a final night on the mountain.

Congratulations to the Emmons Seminar team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Barry- you did it!!!! SO exciting!! You’re an inspiration to so many! -xK

Posted by: Kathryn McRitchie on 6/21/2018 at 8:31 am

Congratulations Noah! This is absolutely amazing. What an accomplishment! I’m inspired!

Posted by: Noah on 6/20/2018 at 1:35 pm

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Prep in Talkeenta, Ready to Fly

Tuesday, June 19, 2018 - 11:28 PM PT

It was a full and busy day for our gang in Talkeetna.  We met for the traditional breakfast at the Roadhouse where formal introductions were made and the plan and possibilities for the next few days were discussed.  Then it was over to the Talkeetna Ranger Station where we greeted longtime friends in the National Park Service.  Roger Robinson -who has been active on Denali since 1975- gave our safety briefing and orientation slideshow.  We then made our way across town to the airstrip and the hangars of K2 Aviation, our flight service.  Skies were cloudy, and we hear that it is still blowing and snowing hard all up and down Denali, but in town today, life wasn’t too bad.  It never rained and there were even some spells of blue sky and sunshine in the afternoon.  We spent almost the entire afternoon in the hangar though, conducting equipment checks and sorting tents, stoves, ropes, pots, pans, shovels and piles upon piles of food and clothing.  By 5 PM it was all in order, weighed and inventoried… ready to be loaded on planes in the morning.  The team got together one more time, for a relaxing dinner at the Twister Creek brew pub.  After dinner, we strolled over to the river bank to watch the mighty Susitna boiling past town and to look over to where Denali was hiding in the storm. 
We broke up for the evening, with everybody intent on taking advantage of a final night -we hope- of Internet, telephone and comfy beds.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Time to nail this one Sue.  We will be rooting for you and the team from ringside!

Posted by: Russ Frederickson on 6/21/2018 at 4:22 am

Tom it looks like you are with an Awesome strong group of climbers. Climb high ! Climb Strong Brother!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/20/2018 at 6:28 pm

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Arrive at Base Camp

Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 3:09 AM PT

Today we woke to more winter with the wind blowing in our faces as we crawled from our tents. We did an Alaska leisure start. This is when you wake up and wish the weather was better but… will pack slowly. So we crept through the white, snow blowing all around us, and trail blazed through the deep snow. After many hours we arrived in Base Camp in dashing style. The evening was caped with more quesadillas than we could eat and a celebratory beverage. As we nestle in our sleeping bags for what we hope is the last night, we dream of burgers and beverages on the other side….. it’s snowing now, of course. Don’t fret we have had a blast on this adventure though we are bitter with the weather. We will out chill Denali. You can count on it.

RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Marc - super glad you are headed back to record setting heat here in sunny Las Vegas!! We are all looking forward to hearing your stories, seeing your pics, and having you back!!! Safe travels!! Denette

Posted by: Denette on 6/21/2018 at 11:00 am

Best news I’ve heard in days - Base Camp!  May the rest of journey home be an easy one!  You are all rock stars in my book for battling the elements and coming out on top!  Well done! Coeli.  P.S.  Nick, you know who your second phone call better be to?!  I’ll let Sabina have your first. :)

Posted by: Coeli Scott on 6/21/2018 at 8:40 am

Denali Expedition: King & Team Hanging at 14,000’ Camp

We turned in last night expecting another pulse of wind and snow from the large storm stalled out in Bristol Bay. Instead we slept well through a calm night with little in the way of wind and only minimal snow drift. The West Buttress was windy as noted by the plumes of snow being blown into the atmosphere. We decided to stay in camp should the storm send more weather our way. After a leisurely breakfast of pancakes there was a swell of climbers headed up to 17. Some to pull caches for a descent to Basecamp and some just to stretch the legs and lungs after sitting for several days. Choosing not to get in a traffic jam we decided to stay put. Tomorrow if we are fortunate we’ll head up the fixed lines and hopefully to 17 so we can get some climbing in. Unfortunately we still need a larger window of improving weather to move camp to 17. The forecasts are improving when compared to what we actually experience in camp. Fingers crossed we get 3-4 days of low winds above for a summi t bid. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Scott, hang in there man!  Hey, some good news from the Reece clan.  We welcomed a new boy this morning! 9lb!  Hatcher Chet.  Erin and kiddo are doing fine.  He was ready get out of his tent and stretch his legs…as you all are I am sure!

Posted by: Luke on 6/20/2018 at 12:33 pm

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Waiting out the Weather

If you were wondering what kind of scenery you can see while climbing Denali, don’t ask us because we haven’t seen anything in days! We are living in a giant ping pong ball where white snow meets white clouds.

We high fived Tyler Jones’s RMI team as they made their way down through the muck headed towards Basecamp.

All we need is a short break in the weather and a small assurance that the next camp will not be any worse than here. We are hoping that tomorrow morning gives us what we need.

The team really is in good spirits considering the amount of tent time that has been logged during this storm and we are not even really on the mountain yet! There has been nothing but positivity and hard work from our Super Crew. So proud!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Hannah!
I’m glad you’re up above the snow and out of the ping pong ball.
Happy first day of summer, at the top of the world!
Sending a warm patronus with special attention for toes.
I love you, I’ll see you in our dreams,
PS Tommy sent me the sweetest post card!

Posted by: Lisa Nezwazky on 6/21/2018 at 10:13 am

Happy Birthday, Josh. We love your spirit and determination. See you soon. All our love. Mom and Dad

Posted by: David Levy on 6/21/2018 at 6:12 am

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