Entries By emma lyddan
July 13, 2022
RMI Guide Alan Davis checked in via inReach. The team arrived at the western end of the Ishinca Glacier at 14,400' yesterday. They will spend a couple of days building on the skills in preparation for our first summit bid, Ishinca at 18,143'.
All is well, no hiccups!
July 11, 2022
Acclimatization has been going well thus far here in Huaraz. Not only have we been sleeping at 10,000', but yesterday, we went for a hike a few hours round-trip walk from our hotel to the "Puca Ventana" or "Red Window" which overlooks the city. Today, we went up to 14,700' on another hike to the beautiful turquoise Laguna which sits in front of the 18,000' "Nevado Churup." After packing for the week ahead, we all enjoyed another delicious meal at the Hotel Andino. Early to bed for some rest before we begin the 6-day adventure that awaits in the Ishinca Valley where we will set up our basecamp and attempt our two objectives (Nevado Ishinca, and Urus Oeste). Stay tuned!
RMI Guides Alan Davis and Emma Lyddan
July 9, 2022
Hello from Huaraz!
After a few years of hiatus due to the pandemic, we were welcomed back graciously into the beautiful country of Peru. It was such a treat to again be able to enjoy the bustling coastal grandeur of Lima while sampling delicious ceviche and other fine Peruvian cuisine last night after some long flights. We began our eight-hour bus ride to the climbing and trekking hamlet of Huaraz promptly this morning after breakfast and were greeted by the always friendly staff at the Andino Club Hotel. A true climbers hotel with some Swiss roots. It was so great to catch up with our local partner and IFMGA guide Peter as well as some of the other support staff with whom we hadn't seen in a few years. Tired from multiple days of travel via busses and planes we quickly enjoyed dinner and got settled into our rooms for a full nights rest where we will begin acclimatizing by sleeping at 10,000'.
RMI Guides Alan Davis, Emma Lyddan and Team
June 29, 2022
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier at 10:15 am today. The high winds from yesterday and overnight calmed in the early hours, it was cold, so the team waited for the temperatures to warm before starting their summit attempt. The waiting paid off and the team had a clear beautiful summit day via the Emmons Glacier. They will spend the last night on the mountain training, before returning to Ashford Basecamp tomorrow afternoon.
June 12, 2022
Saturday June 11th, 2022 – 9:04pm PT
After making our way from 17 camp to 14 camp, we crawled back into our tents and took a nap. Around 10pm, we woke up for either a late dinner or early breakfast of Ramen noodles and began packing up camp for what we thought would be the very last time. While we had walked into 14 camp in a whiteout, during our nap the clouds had settled below us and it had become a beautiful brisk night.
With camp packed up, we headed towards Basecamp and the airstrip. While we arrived in decent weather, we got word that clouds kept the planes from flying all day. We've now crawled back into our tents and await a weather window that allows us to fly back to Talkeetna.
Think good weather thoughts!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team
Sorry to hear about the bad weather at the end of the trip. The good news is that the mountain has been conquered and that you are all at base camp. Hoping a weather window opens soon. Well done everyone.
Posted by: Robert Edge on 6/12/2022 at 10:25 am
June 11, 2022
Saturday June 11 - 11:59am PT
The last few days have been a blur.
Yesterday we had a hard but a rewarding summit day. The autobahn was mild, but the summit ridge greeted us with high winds, and blowing snow. Despite the mountains best efforts, our entire team made it to the summit and safely back to 17k camp for a late dinner.
Even though we all wanted to sleep in following the summit - we woke up around 9:30am, had a quick hot breakfast, and tore down camp to begin the long process of descending back to the airstrip.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team
June 10, 2022
Thursday, June 9, 2022 9:42pm PT
RMI Guide Nikki Champion let us know that their Denali Team was 100% on the summit! They are back at camp resting and will give us full details of their climb soon!
Jeff-Rob! What a tremendous accomplishment to be proud of! Wishing you and all your team a safe descent.
Posted by: Lynn on 6/11/2022 at 7:04 pm
Congratulations Erik! Awesome job, now come back to work!
Posted by: Marc Taylor on 6/10/2022 at 4:39 pm
June 9, 2022
Wednesday, June 8, 2022 - 8:33 pm PT
With favorable weather for the next few days, we took the opportunity to rest without missing our weather window. We woke up to the sun, and ate a mellow breakfast of oatmeal and poptarts. The rest of the day was spent napping, and adjusting to our new High Camp. With good weather our plan is to climb tomorrow. The rest of the evening will be spent eating an early dinner, filling water bottles, and getting our beauty rest in.
Wish us luck, tomorrow should be the big day!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
Woohoo! Good luck guys!
Posted by: Jerey Wilson on 6/9/2022 at 12:08 pm
Best of luck as you prepare to summit!! Hoping for weather and elements to be in your favor :-) it’s been so fun following along on your journey
Posted by: M on 6/9/2022 at 11:49 am
June 8, 2022
Tuesday, June 7, 2022 - 11:39 pm PT
Today we had our second birthday of the trip, mine! We celebrated by loading up the heavy packs and making the move to 17,000' Camp. We headed out this morning with clear skies, but low clouds slowly overtook 14,000' Camp and the fixed lines. We remained in and out of the clouds for the entire climb of the West Buttress, with occasional bouts of sunshine and snow. Overall, a beautiful, tough day on the Buttress. Right before dinner time we rolled into 17,000' Camp, where we set up camp and started making water and hots for a late dinner. The next few days of weather look favorable, so I think we'll squeeze the summit in within the next two days. Check back in tomorrow either post summit, or post rest day!
Happy Birthday Nikki! We’re so happy things seem to be going well for the team. Hope Taylor and Emma fixed you dinner last night and let you sleep in a bit:). May the weather gods continue to treat you all well. Go Team! Love, the Wilhelms
Posted by: Tracy on 6/8/2022 at 5:39 pm
Happy Birthday, Nikki! Videos are breathtaking! I can feel the wind and snow from my easy chair! Way to go! Cheers, Jerry, your 3rd level uncle, twice removed!!?
Posted by: Jerry Worden on 6/8/2022 at 4:04 pm
June 6, 2022
June 6 - 4:50 PT
Another beautiful morning for a rest day. Woke up with the sun to a filling meal of breakfast burritos. Weather is looking more optimistic, so we are taking today to rest, prep and pack with the hopes of moving to high camp tomorrow. Otherwise, a generally quiet day at 14 camp.
Hope to check in from 17,000' feet tomorrow!
Keep up the great work Aaron and Lori Stafford. We continue to read the updates as they come through, praying you have a successful and safe expedition.
The Penrose Family
Posted by: Will Penrose on 6/7/2022 at 9:50 am
So anxious for you to summit…and get home. Can’t believe your good weather. What are you doing while resting? Great weekend at TOC. Make your own pizza on the Boardwalk with 4 little pizza ovens going. Eat your heart out Little Caesar’s! Then, a Bocci tournament with Bellinis. It got chilly, so I provided the blankets. All is well with your house. Love you.
Posted by: Emigh Litch on 6/7/2022 at 5:38 am