Entries By jack ritterson

Wednesday, June 24, 2026 - 9:44 pm PT

Well the storm was still around today but it got done piling snow on our tents by 5AM.  We ended up getting a pretty sunny calm day. There were still clouds everywhere but not on us. Having received at least a foot of new snow in a relatively short time, we needed the slopes to cook and settle in the sunshine to cut down on avalanche possibilities. They seemed to be doing just that.  Will Ambler gave a master class in snow/avalanche science to our assembled climbing team this afternoon.  We’ve now got our eyes on a move up to 14,000' tomorrow morning in what should be good weather.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Tuesday, June 23, 2026 - 8:57 pm PT

Not much action for us today, big storm hitting the mountain.  We were watching the weather from 3 AM, hoping for a chance to sneak up to 14 Camp ahead of the incoming storm, but ultimately we decided there wasn’t a sufficient window for doing it safely.  After five days of walking and carrying loads, we rested today and watched it snow and blow.  We sat a little long following meals and told each other stories in the dining tent.  Forecasts suggest the storm will be with us tonight and tomorrow as well. We can wait.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Monday, June 22, 2026 - 9:48 pm PT

Our crampons were crunching snow just after 8 this morning as we got going up Motorcycle Hill.  An hour of climbing got us to the middle of Squirrel Hill, where we had great (and new) views of the Peters Glacier and the NW Buttress of Denali.  We had some steep hills to muscle up before reaching the relatively flat terrain at the start of the Polo Field below the end of the West Buttress.  An hour of gradually steepening climbing then got us to the relatively flat terrain at the start of the Polo Field below the end of the West Buttress.  An hour of gradually steepening climbing then got us to the pass at Windy Corner.  There, at about 13,300 ft we chose to cache our food and fuel.  The weather stayed more or less stable -there was no wind at windy corner- but clouds were increasing and we were getting intermittent snow showers. The team had a smooth descent to 11k with lighter packs and sleds.  The afternoon and evening were mostly cloudy back at camp, but we enjoyed a few sun breaks too.  We hope to move up to 14k tomorrow ahead of a forecasted storm. Fingers crossed.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Sunday, June 21 - 6:45PM PST

We didn’t get up in the middle of the night!  It was wonderful to sleep until the civilized hour of six AM. Being higher up the hill at 11k means we don’t have to work so hard to avoid heat. We set off on our “back-carry” at 8 AM, snowshoeing down the hill to our cache at 10k. We collected our food and fuel and made it back into 11camp by 10:30.  The team sheltered from the sun until 3 and then we assembled to review crampon footwork and handling an ice axe, both of which will be useful tomorrow as we transition to steeper terrain. It began to snow -gently- as we finished training and set about packing for tomorrow’s carry.

- RMI Guide Dave Hahn 
 

Saturday, June 20 - 7PM PST

At 2AM things didn’t look so great… there were big clouds and it was spitting snow on our 8K camp. After a cup of coffee, everything looked better and we rallied the team for moving day. We were on the trail just ahead of 5 AM and moving well in the cool shadows. Before long we were up Ski Hill and pulling on to the plateau at 9500 ft. We took a break near our 10K cache and then rounded the corner bound for 11K. The last hill was bigger and steeper but our team was firing on all cylinders and we cruised into our new home by 10AM. It took about 2.5 hrs to hammer out tent sites and a kitchen and dining tent but it then felt pretty good to move in to shelter from the intense high altitude sun. After a few days down in the valley of the Kahiltna, it is a thrill to be looking out at the Alaskan tundra to the NW and back down to 17,400 ft Mount Foraker to the SW.  The end of the West Buttress is gigantic above camp. We may actually get a thunder snow shower after dinner this evening as the cumulus clouds have been building and rumbling.

- RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Friday June 19th - 6:30PM PST

Perfect day for climbing to the head of the Kahiltna Glacier.  We woke at 2:30 AM, happy to find that we had new neighbors -Dan May’s RMI team, fresh from summit success, had set up next to us in the night.  We congratulated them (although they were still trying for a little sleep) and set out on our carry to 10,000 ft.  Conditions were excellent for travel, the surface had frozen up just right and our sleds were gliding effortlessly… except for when we were going uphill, which was most of the time.  We traveled well at any rate, reaching our target elevation before 9 AM, just as the first rays of sunshine were creeping over the end of the West Buttress. We dug a deep hole in the snow and cached food and fuel. The walk down was relatively easy with light packs.  Looking South we could see all the way to the Tordrillo Mountains on the horizon.  By late morning we were diving into our tents to beat the midday heat.  We hope to move up tomorrow.

-RMI Guide Dave Hahn
 

June 18th - 7PM PST

We started stoves at 12:30 AM today and hopped into our climbing boots.  Conditions looked to be perfect.  It was a clear night and the glacier surface had frozen up just right to make walking and sled dragging easy.  Or easier, at least.  As expected, it took a good while to get geared up, to break camp, get breakfasted and rigged for glacier travel. We were moving by 3:45 and watching the first sun way up on Mt Foraker’s 17,000 ft slopes. In contrast, we were still in deep shadow as we worked along the immense Kahiltna glacier.  By a little after eight, we’d already reached our destination for the day The base of Ski Hill at 8000 ft.  It took a few more hours to build a secure camp and then we made good use of it, diving in tents to avoid the midday sun.  We will carry a load up the glacier tomorrow and return to this camp.  All are feeling strong and enjoying the scenery.

-RMI Guide Dave Hahn
 

Wednesday, June 17, 2026 - 9:24 pm PT

Just like clockwork.  We ate a great Swiss Alaska breakfast, walked to the hangar, put on our boots and flew in to Kahiltna Base Camp.  It was a stunningly beautiful flight.  There were some clouds but our pilots found ways between them and put the ski equipped Otters down as gently as possible onstunningly beautiful flight.  There were some clouds but our pilots found ways between them and put the ski equipped Otters down as gently as possible on the SE Fork.  We were on by 10 AM which made for an easy day of building camp and conducting a review of glacier travel techniques.  We are surrounded by gigantic cliffs of ice and rock and by glaciers stretching for miles.  The guides served up a phenomenal burrito feast in our dining tent and the team turned in early.  We intend to get up in the middle of the night to go climbing.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn 

Tuesday, June 16, 2026 - 11:11 pm PT

As expected, today was a busy one.  We talked over our priorities and strategies. We sat with the National Park Service rangers for our required orientation.  We dialed personal gear, group gear and food quantities.  We packed and prepped and checked our systems.  Then we went into town, relaxed and ate pizza.  We are ready. We hope to fly in first thing tomorrow morning. 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz May 29 - 3 June led by RMI Guide George Hedreen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday.  The team established their High Camp yesterday afternoon and then made their summit attempt and returned to camp. Today the team will descend to Paradise and conclude their program.

Nice work team!