Entries By jess wedel

The June 23 - 26 Four Day Climb is made of climbers associated with Black Diamond Equipment and led by RMI Guide Jess Wedel.  This all women's team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today putting together their skills, training and equipment. Although the forecast was not stellar the team awoke to good conditions with clear skies above and moderate winds.  The cloud deck below sits at around 9,000' but that was not of concern as the team ascended the upper mountain.  Reaching the summit around 7:45 am the team enjoyed a bit of time in the summit crater before starting their descent.  The team will return to Camp Muir for a short stop and then continue the final 4,500' down to Paradise.  Their program will wrap up this afternoon with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to these Black Diamond Climbers! 

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Henry Coppolillo and Jess Wedel made a push toward the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning, the group reached 13,200 feet before Mother Nature made her presence known.

As the team ascended through the early morning hours, increasing winds and steady snowfall began to challenge their progress. With safety as the top priority, the guides made the decision to turn the team around just below the summit.  

Now back at Camp Muir, where light snow continues to fall, the team is regrouping and preparing for their descent to Paradise.

Yes, it's official—Brent Okita has reached his 600th summit of Mt. Rainier, setting a world record for the most successful ascents of the iconic 14,410-foot peak! This incredible milestone was achieved during a Four-Day Climb led by Okita and fellow guide Jess Wedel. The team reached the summit early this morning, and they’re expected to return to basecamp this afternoon for a well-deserved celebration.

To put this into perspective, 600 summits equates to approximately 5.4 million feet of elevation gain—and that’s only counting successful climbs. It doesn’t include the countless additional feet from training, attempted climbs, or even biking from Ashford to Paradise. Brent’s dedication, endurance, and passion for mountaineering are truly legendary.

Congratulations also to the RMI Clients that were able to climb and share the rope with Brent and Jess today. It was very important to Brent that he accomplish this record while guiding RMI Clients to the top.

The Four Day Climb with Dave Hahn and Jess Wedel has reached the summit of Mt. Rainier!

The team enjoyed clear skies above a thick marine layer, with just a few clouds lingering to the east—a beautiful day to stand on top of the Pacific Northwest. They have begun their descent and are en route to Camp Muir, where they’ll take a break, reorganize their packs, and then continue down to Paradise.

Congratulations to the team on a successful summit!

We made it back to Kathmandu!

After descending to Lukla yesterday, we had a final team dinner with our Sherpa guide team and all the porters that helped make our trip possible.

We ended the night with a boom box and dancing — each song switching between USA pop songs and Nepali music. There was so much laughter and it was such a lovely evening celebrating a wonderful trip.

This morning we woke up early and made it on helicopters back to a hazy Kathmandu. People spent the afternoon resting and shopping on the bustling streets of Thamel.

One final team dinner tonight where we reminisced on an amazing experience - full of challenges, growth and pushing ourselves. One thing we all agree on is the smiles and open hearts of the Nepali people is something we’ll keep with us for a long time.

Until next time,

Jess and the Lobuche team

Tuesday, April 1, 2025 - 5:59 pm PT

We woke up in Pangboche and headed back on the trail. Descending hills, crossing bridges, ascending hills and descending more until we made it to Namche Bazaar.

We passed our final yak trains (only mules and zopke below Namche) and many teams looking fresh as they headed in the valley.

We got an early start so we had the afternoon in Namche to shop for final gifts - yak bells, yak wool scarves, customized hoodies and more.

Tomorrow we have one final big day of trekking until we reach Lukla.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the team

We had a leisurely morning in Pheriche - taking our time to pack and sit in the sunroom playing games. Much needed after our big Lobuche push. 

We said goodbye to Dawa, our head Sherpa guide, as he heads back to Everest Base Camp to climb this season and took off out of Pheriche.

Right before we left town, we were sent off by two more of the floofiest baby yaks. Always a day maker. 

We took in the views and walked just under three hours to our teahouse in Pangboche. A lovely short day so we had the afternoon to rest before two big days of walking ahead.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel

We made it to the summit of Lobuche!

With an alpine start, we headed up the mountain. The first half of the climb we ascended slabby rock, up and up we went. Climbing below a moonless sky with stars forever. Although the forecast had called for high winds, it was still and quiet.

Soon we crossed the ridge to what is normally crampon point near 18,400 feet but it’s been a very dry winter in the Himalayas so we continued on a rocky ridge to nearly 18,800ft where we finally dawned our crampons and got on the steep snow and ice. First light of day was just beginning to show the outline of the mountains around us and it was beautiful. The colors of the sky changed and soon the sun came up! After a lot more steep climbing up the face of Lobuche we reached the summit.

We’ve now descended to Pheriche where we reunited with our other two team members and plan to all walk out together over the next few days.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Lobuche team

Hi there!

We left base camp early this morning and made our way to Lobuche high camp. We said goodbye to everyone that made our stay so wonderful.

The trail was crowded with yaks and trekkers but we ducked and dodged and eventually made it back to Gorek shep and then on to Lobuche.

After a quick lunch, we headed uphill to Lobuche high camp! It was a windy day and the forecast looks like the wind will continue for the next few days. We plan to climb tonight and see if we can safely make it to the top and back down.

We’re headed to bed early to try to get some rest before an early wake up.

Two of our teammates that planned to just trek made it safely back to Pheriche where they will wait for us to get down from the climb.

Cross your fingers the wind dies down!

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the team
 

Out here, we remember to marvel. It’s so easy to forget how incredible this planet is but when you wake up to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night at 17,500 ft and you are surrounded by a world of stars you can’t help but be in awe. That’s what these last two days have been like. We are amazed at the power of the ice and the glaciers around us, we can’t get enough of the stars at night, and base camp — to see a whole city built of tents in such a harsh and unforgiving place is pretty incredible.

Today we got to walk to the lower Khumbu ice fall and do some ice climbing and training for Lobuche. We learned how to use our ascenders (safety first!), how to rappel and how to climb training for Lobuche. We learned how to use our ascenders (safety first!), how to rappel and how to climb steep ice and snow.

I’m so impressed with everyone on this team and so excited to see what Lobuche has to offer us these next few days.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the climbing team