Entries By katrina bloemsma
June 4, 2016
June 4, 2016 - 4:47 pm PT
What a big 24 hours it has been! As yesterday dragged on in the hangar with an ominous dark cloud over the Range, the team seemed pretty resigned to spend another night in Talkeetna. Suddenly the feeling around the airstrip changed as rumors of a slight clearing at basecamp filtered to town. “15% chance, but never hurts to load up the plane,” a pilot friend said.
That 15% chance kept improving to the point where our air service, K2, felt confident enough to send a scouting plane toward Base Camp. We launched our two Otters on the heels of the scout and navigated storm cells and clouds into the mighty Alaska Range. It was completely amazing. Both planes landed and we hustled out to make room for teams waiting to get off the mountain. The weather had let us in, but the pilots didn’t want to push their luck. It was some real impressive flying that put us finally on the mountain after so much preparation. Way to be K2!
Having landed on the glacier, we finalized our rigging and set off to begin the climb. Our late in the day flight put us in an excellent position for lighting out. It was a beautiful evening with some swirling clouds and pleasant walking.
Our journey took us up to the base of Ski Hill, where we built camp after a long day. It just began to snow as we put the finishing touches on camp and we slept the sleep of the just. The adventure continues and it feels great to be in the mountains!
On The Map
Great news!!!!! Exciting to have begun the journey!!! Can’t wait to hear more about it!
What’s happening at home? Paul & Jason ran their first mountain race! Jason, 1:02 and Paul, 1:14. Daddy’s best race was 1:05! Jason can’t wait to rub it in! Isabelle came in 4th in her new age range. Coulda been 2nd or 3rd but belle didn’t know how long a 6K was so she took it slow.
Have fun and be safe! Love you, Honey! Mamma
Posted by: Isty on 6/4/2016 at 11:15 pm
June 2, 2016
June 2, 2016 - 8:31 p.m. PDT
Twas a day to rest here in ol’ Talkeetna. Our team practiced crevasse rescue in the hangar. Scaling ropes like we would to get ourselves out of a crevasse, should we fall into one on the Kahiltna. To cover our bases we then reviewed how to pull a teammate out of a hole using a jungle gym in the yard outside our piles of gear. Then we all solemnly swore not to fall in a crevasse, the most important part of the deal.
Post training we settled in to wait for a weather window decent enough to fly the 50 miles to Kahiltna Basecamp. Unfortunately we were unable to fly today. The team has done well with the uncertainty and though we are raring to go, we know that getting to the mountain safely is a step we mustn’t skip.
Wish us luck for tomorrow and hopefully we will be checking in from the mountains!
Hi sweetheart! I’m so glad you made it to the mountain! I am praying you summit, descend and get back home safely. Like Adryan, Jesse, Tara and Bud, we love you and hope you have a wonderful experience. We’ll watch for Jake’s updates every day!
Posted by: Mama on 6/4/2016 at 6:05 pm
From Adryan: I hope you have a good time climbing the mountain - I’m always thinking about you - I love u Mattie:)
Posted by: Adryan Miller on 6/4/2016 at 4:18 pm
June 1, 2016
June 1, 2016 - 9:20 am PDT
Time for this year’s pilgrimage to the Great One! Our team is assembled and we are about to hit the orientation from the Park Service before diving into the hangar to rig our equipment for the upcoming adventure!
RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
Prayers continue to be with you on your adventure and we are excited to be a part of it even if it is through cheering and watching your progress through the safety of our computer screen…lol. Many hugs and cheers to you Jason!!!!
Posted by: The Broek Gang Sandon and Sharlet and Kids on 6/7/2016 at 4:29 pm
Just thinking of you Daddy. Hope all is well. Everybody asks about you. We continue to pray for a safe climb. Love you! Have fun! Mamma
Posted by: Isty and kids on 6/4/2016 at 9:18 pm
January 27, 2016
Wow… All I can say is that it’s been a crazy ride. Two days ago we were sitting tight up at Camp 2 waiting for the weather to open up and now we are down in Penitentes celebrating our escape from the wrath Aconcagua. We had decided to hold on a day or two longer and see if maybe the forecasts were wrong but alas, they were not. We made the decision to pull the plug and head down when the lowest wind speed predicted over the next 7 days was over 50 mph with several pulses up in the 70’s. We woke on the morning we intended to descend to clear skies but moderate winds blowing snow and by the time we were able to pick up camp it had clouded over and the wind had intensified significantly. As we descended around and down the mountain the storm chased us all the way to Basecamp… There was no respite despite our descent into a portion of the mountain that is historically more protected. Our team was able to stick together and move well despite the challenging conditions. We were greeted warmly by the Basecamp staff upon our arrival back at Plaza Argentina. We enjoyed real chairs and a real meal (chicken Vesuvius) for the first time in over a week and then crashed hard. The next couple days we made our way down the Relinchos and Vacas Valleys and spent our last night out on the trail after devouring an amazing asado prepared by our mule drivers. We ate (beef, beef, beef!) and drank (vino, and even a little wild turkey) and went to bed happy and tired after a long couple of days. This morning we rose and walked the last of the Vacas to the road where we checked out with the park rangers and were greeted by our shuttle driver with beer and Fanta. Not a bad way to finish a long and tough expedition.
Next stop, Mendoza!
home sweet home
Posted by: kat branchflower on 1/29/2016 at 2:28 pm
What a journey ! At least you all got back safe and sound. Blowing gales here today also!
Love Diane and Paul
Posted by: Paul and Diane on 1/29/2016 at 2:00 am
January 26, 2016
The RMI Aconcagua Team led by RMI Guides Billy Nugent and Katrina Bloemsma were unable to make a summit attempt and are en route to Mendoza. The team left Base Camp today and is camped at Pampa de Las Lenas where they will spend the night. They will finish their trek to the trail head tomorrow and return to Mendoza.
Jake and Doug. ..amazing trip I’m sure. ..can’t wait to hear all about it but more anxious to get you back home! Love you burly, hairy mountain men!!
Posted by: Marsha and jeremy on 1/27/2016 at 5:05 pm
Sorry to hear you had to “turn-back”. At least you were’nt one in 1974!
Have a safe trip home!
Posted by: Tom Lozier on 1/27/2016 at 10:12 am
January 24, 2016
Well, we are currently pinned down by high winds at Camp 2 and despite the sunny weather we are stuck alternating between chilling outside in camp or baking in the tents. Last night a pretty hefty storm thrashed camp with strong winds, new snow, and repeated thunder and lightning. Skies began to clear this morning and the wind began to abate in camp as it shifted more to the southwest putting us a bit more in the lee of the mountain. Unfortunately, it is still howling up at Camp 3 and the entire flank of Aconcagua is adorned with swirling clouds of spin drift and the summit is sporting a sizable contrail. Today is officially our first weather day as we have been knocked off our planned itinerary for the first time. Still, two days stuck in the tent feels like a lot and we are trying not to get saddled with cabin fever. The team is doing a great job staying positive despite the fact that nearly every other expedition on the mountain has bailed for Mendoza and we are eagerly awaiting the latest weather forecast for a potential summit window…
Wish us luck!
Stuck in the tent for now anyway,
I love you Daddy We all miss you so much.I hope you and Doug are having fun!!! HI Daddy! Love,Bailey
Hey Babe- bails wanted to write you a message on her own!! You guys are all in our prayers for a chance at the summit but we are all so proud of you even if you don’t get a chance at it!! See you soon!!
Posted by: Bailey on 1/26/2016 at 8:28 am
Praying your team gets a break in the weather Jake.
We are following you from SAMCOM in Dallas
Bob & the Crown gang
Posted by: Bob Fiedler on 1/26/2016 at 5:07 am
January 23, 2016
We woke this morning to our first bit of precipitation. When I stuck my head out of the tent around 5 am, we were essentially in a cloud with some light flurries coming down but now the clouds have parted a bit and we’re enjoying views towards Mercedario again. It’s calm and more or less pleasant but we are waiting for a system to hit this afternoon with wind and precipitation. We are on a scheduled rest day and will hopefully see what this storm brings before we try and figure out our next move. When a window presents itself we’ll make a move for high camp at Plaza Cólera and hopefully take a crack at the summit the following day. But for now… We’re about to be stuck in a holding pattern. On a brighter note, we are celebrating a teammate’s birthday today complete with a cake and balloons courtesy of Katrina. Hoping everyone at home wishes John a happy one!
Signing off for now,
We are glad that there are only 9 more days until you get home. We are missing on you. LOVE: Addy Leith Babe
I love you Dad so much. We can’t stop thinking of you because you are our best dad and babe ever. Love, Leith
Posted by: Addelyn on 1/25/2016 at 8:14 pm
Hope all your crazy coats are keeping you warm while you wait out the storm!! We are praying hard you stay safe but have a chance at the summit- hearing the kids prayers would bring a smile to your face for sure!! Can’t wait to see the pics and hear all about your adventures- I like Charlyn an def looking forward to seeing that beard and crusty the clown hair you most likely have by now!!
The kids did awesome in their games yesterday and Mason even played on Bails team since they were short players!!
Stay safe all!!
Posted by: Bre on 1/24/2016 at 8:01 am
January 22, 2016
Checking in from Guanacos Campo 3, or Camp 2 for us at well over 18,000’. We are moved and settled in, enjoying yet another perfect afternoon with coffee, cribbage, prosciutto, and of course, siestas. We felt the altitude before but with this most recent move higher we are all moving a bit slower and scratching our heads a bit longer when trying to figure out where that one stuff sack with our snacks went. The team is staying positive despite a tough looking weather forecast and we are hoping that Mother Nature will give us an opportunity to sneak in a trip to the top. Not much else cooking up here besides our broccoli and rice dinner…
On The Map
Man! We sure hope you guys can at least take a crack at the summit. Always in our prayers. I know I’m a day late on this post, but just know we have been actively thinking and praying for your adventure. Enjoy your time and keep that mind of yours sharp! That altitude is no match for my babers!
We love you so much and miss you lots!
Char and kids
Posted by: Charlyn on 1/23/2016 at 8:29 pm
Amazing to think you’ve gone so far. Hope you get a weather window for your attempt on the summit.
Love Brian, Mary Lou, David and Sarah
Posted by: Brian Macfaden on 1/23/2016 at 10:50 am
January 21, 2016
Well, we are enjoying a pleasant, if a bit breezy, rest day here at Aconcagua Camp 1. People are passing the time watching movies, playing cribbage, reading, and taking Spanish lessons from Pato, our newest addition to the guide team. Not much else to report, we’re hoping to move up to Camp 2 tomorrow where we plan on waiting out the coming weather before making our move to Plaza Cólera (Camp 3) and subsequent summit push. Morale is high and we are all looking forward to being reunited with our best snack food up in the cache at Camp 2.
More to come as the story develops,
Hey Randy (AKA - Mountain Man),
Enjoy your day off. Hope your climb to Camp 2 goes smoothly and the weather there is not too much of a challenge.
Stay strong and be safe.
Posted by: Dad on 1/22/2016 at 6:36 am
Buenos dias querido Randy (Good morning dear Randy) I am sure that you will make your goal. Arrive safe to the top of the mountain. Good for you that you are learning Spanish ( Bueno para ti que estes aprendiendo espanol). Receive all my love and blessing from God,
Posted by: Luz Irwin on 1/22/2016 at 6:31 am
January 20, 2016
Hola! Billy here back at Camp 1 chilling (out) and filling (up on food) after a flawless carry to Camp 2. We moved well and had little trouble putting in our cache of the usual food, fuel, and cold weather/summit gear. We bumped into friends and acquaintances all along the way enjoying the better than decent weather. There were a few minutes of flurries and even a little thunder in the distance but nothing of consequence. As I write this we’re basking in the sun, satisfied with the day’s work.
Oh, we also met our third guide who traversed the mountain from the other base camp (Plaza de Mulas) and descended with us back to camp. His name is Pato, which means “duck,” and he’s a pretty cool dude. Not much else to report other than some inclement weather in the forecast, hopefully it doesn’t slow our roll too much…
Until our next dispatch,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and team
On The Map
Randy…sounds like things are going well so far. In fact with all your chilling and filling and basking in the sun it sounds like you are on a very leisurely vacation…makes me a little jealous…haha. I know better but I hope you are enjoying the challenge. Lucas wanted me to tell you his great news that he just passed his MIG certification for a vertical up weld. He is so excited!
I miss you and I’m hoping Mother Nature remains kind to you.
Posted by: Lisa Irwin on 1/21/2016 at 10:26 am
It’s National Hug Day, so a great big hug with warm thoughts to Dr. H from all of us! Have a good climb today!
Posted by: Linda Sitton on 1/21/2016 at 6:55 am