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Entries By katrina bloemsma

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team at 17K Camp Ready for Summit Bid

June 16, 2016 - 1:21 A.M. PDT

The wind finally came this morning and the upper mountain looked rugged from our home at 14K. Our team was ready to rock early in the morning, but Denali had other plans. Plumes of snow streamed from the Buttress and the move was to brew another cup of coffee and out chill the weather. Eventually it tapered and we were able to launch upward towards our high camp. The weather turned beautiful, almost too hot, but pleasant to build camp in once we arrived. It was a big day, but we made it and are in position to give it a shot tomorrow. Wish us luck, we’re gonna need it!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Jake, sending you power vibes to lead your team to a successful summit and descent.  I hope there’s fairy dust on the summit ridge again this year ;)

Posted by: Meredith on 6/16/2016 at 5:01 pm

Good luck to Brad Lawler and team.  Hoping you have a great summit experience!

Posted by: Matthew DeVoll on 6/16/2016 at 3:29 pm

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Waiting At 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2016 - 8:12 pm PT

With high winds still a concern we spent another day at 14 Camp on the rest and relaxation program. It was another beautiful day and the team is fully set to jet. If the favorable forecast verifies for tomorrow we will begin our shot for the top by way of the 17,000 camp. Wish us clear skies and calm winds!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Best of luck Peter, Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

Posted by: John Jnr & Marie on 6/15/2016 at 3:01 pm

The view of Denali today was just beautiful, especially since you all are on her. Praying for calm winds and safe ascent to 17K camp.

Posted by: Isty on 6/14/2016 at 9:50 pm

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team 14K Camp Day of Rest

June 14, 2016 - 2:13 am PT

What a gorgeous day to be resting on Denali!  We didn’t get out of the tent until the sun warmed our little cocoons. Pancakes fueled us for a walk to the infamous Edge of the World where we enjoyed unobstructed views of this magnificent mountain and the range that hosts us. Warm and windless was our vantage point and looking from the South Buttress to our first camp around to our current home in Genet Basin contributed to our ever evolving sense of scale. The team answered (or tried to) Denali trivia for a turn to look over the Edge down to the Northeast Fork and make a memory. Back to camp for the afternoon for more rest and an eventual sunset with a just over half full moon taking the trip from Denali over Hunter on its way to Foraker, breaking trail for tomorrow’s ascent by the Sun. Wind up high may keep us here for an extra day or two, but somehow I think we’ll be just fine.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Absolutely breathtaking! We check on your progress everyday & read the update aloud as a family. We are living vicariously through you. Happy adventures!

Posted by: Knutsons on 6/14/2016 at 9:09 pm

So exciting to watch your progress!!! We are looking at Denali from Anchorage today. I see a few thumbs up and smiles. Go Jason and team!!!

Posted by: The Hoppes on 6/14/2016 at 3:13 pm

Denali Expedition: Beren and Team Carry to Washburn’s Thumb

June 12, 2016 - 10:53 p.m. PDT

We left camp with chilly toes and no one ahead of us. Pushing toward the fixed lines, we were treated to the sun at our first break. The sun (and uphill effort) warmed us up and soon we were steadily working up the fixed lines. It was a beautiful day and the team got their first taste of real altitude. We did fine and cached just below the impressive Washburn Thumb. The time spent on the West Buttress is the best climbing of the route and we had a perfect day to dance on the ridge. Now we are all set up for the next window in the weather to move higher. Tomorrow we will rest up to prepare our bodies for the next challenge.

RMI Guide Jake Beren and team

On The Map

Jake - wishing you all success and the best weather imaginable. Have been following your steady progress - and remembering what a great job you did leading our team back in the day. See you in the fall, if not before.

Posted by: Peter Rogers on 6/14/2016 at 6:59 am

We continue to see the daunting, yet beautiful pictures. We look forward to hearing your stories of struggles and perseverance. The map continues to show you closer to the summit. Keep it up!

Posted by: Shawn Bernard on 6/13/2016 at 10:51 am

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Rest and Train at 14,000’ Camp

June 11, 2016 - 11:11 pm PT

Today was a delight. We slept in a little, enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and hit up some training. The fixed lines loom a thousand feet above us and we prepared ourselves for them with a simulation above camp. We duplicated the transitions with ascenders until the team became certified ascender ninjas. We are ready to tackle them, I only hope they are ready for us.

After our training we rested for a bit and then fortified camp. The team busted out walls and worked very well together on the parapets and ramparts that will secure our castle while we are crusading higher. Should the weather hold we will try to establish a cache for the upper upper mountain. We’ll let you know how it all goes tomorrow. Sleep well friends.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Great progress and teamwork! We’re praying for you all!
Jay, Isabelle ran her first 5 miler and did well. She’s looking for her next race. She leaves for bethel today. Love you!
Make it a great day!

Posted by: Isty on 6/12/2016 at 9:23 am

Well said Jodi!!!!  Good job team - hopefully you are all helping and supporting each other!  Climbing is of course a group effort and it takes everybody to get everybody to the top safely - make sure to help each other along the way!!!!!!!

Posted by: Jesse Godzala on 6/12/2016 at 9:12 am

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Moving On Up

June 10, 2016 - 10:35 pm PT

Waking to clear skies and minimal wind was a great way to start our move to 14K Camp. Of course when you walk amongst the clouds sometimes they come say hello. As we crossed the Polo Fields towards Windy Corner, weather set in and the team got their first taste of what Denali can dish out. We managed quite well and rallied through the pass to the calm on the other side, none the worse for wear, but with a few wider eyes to show for the effort.
After an easy camp build (Thanks Jonesy!), we dined and toasted our friend Ryan for his Birthday!  Katrina even no baked a cheesecake to celebrate the joyous day.

That’s the news from 14K, stay tuned for the next episode.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Jason, we’ve been watching your progress!  We saw Isty and Isabelle today at the Women’s Run…can’t wait for you to see their fabulous dress-up pics!

Sophia and Susan—Trailside friends

Posted by: Susan on 6/11/2016 at 11:54 pm

Happy Birthday Ryan!!! :) (this is a great length to go to avoid another surprise party)

Posted by: Jessica on 6/11/2016 at 2:29 pm

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Rest and Recover at 11 Camp

June 9, 2016 - 8:11 pm PT

“Nature does not hurry, yet all is accomplished”
    Lao Tzu

Today was a much needed rest day for our squad. While we may have been strong enough to move to 14 Camp, we opted to rest and recover from the effort of yesterday’s carry. Sometimes being patient can be tough on a day with good weather, but it pays to be conservative. We had clear weather in the morning, but it quickly turned nasty, making our call to rest even easier.

Spending the day napping, feasting and getting ready for the move sets us up for the upward launch whenever Denali lets us go.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Glad to hear that all is well and that the team is rested.  Enjoy the breaks when you get them and stay focused when on the move.

Posted by: Kaylor on 6/11/2016 at 7:01 am

Happy Birthday Ryan!  Stay safe!

Posted by: Daryl Newman on 6/10/2016 at 5:03 pm

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2016 - 1:56 am PT

We awoke this morning inside a ping pong ball. Watching the weather for a few hours revealed a slightly improving trend, certainly no deterioration. We decided that it was manageable and set forth. The clouds we traveled through and among were friendly and trail breaking was quite doable for this squad. We kept flowing up until we strolled into 14 Camp. We dumped a hefty load of supplies to ease our eventual move to the upper mountain. We are sitting pretty back at 11,000’ Camp, fed and ready for bed. Nice work team! 

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Dear B-Law, if you’re reading this note you already know. The house has been boarded up. The doors. The windows. Everything. We’re at the Comfort Inn. Room 112. I love you. Austin

Have fun Team. Brad, send me a postcard from the top.

Posted by: Austin on 6/9/2016 at 6:40 pm

Hi Mattie-

We miss you so much and love hearing about your team’s progress through Jake’s updates.  The boys, the PC’s, Adryan, Taira and I are all praying for favorable weather for you in the days ahead.  Stay warm, rested, hydrated and focused!  Love from us all!


Posted by: Lil on 6/9/2016 at 6:38 pm

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Enjoy a Productive Day at 11K

June 7, 2016 - 7:24 pm PT

The team continues to do well here at Denali’s 11K Camp. We took an early jaunt down to our cache to get reunited with our extra snacks. Our trail breaking yesterday served us well and we cruised out and back with very good style. Once back, we took an “active rest day,” building walls to fortify camp and reviewing some mountaineering techniques. If the weather holds, we will try to cache higher on the mountain tomorrow. Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Glad to hear you are progressing up the mountain safely! I’m also glad you can hear about Swiftey’s bladder issues from high altitudes! Be safe, we’re excited for you!

Posted by: Isty's walking partner on 6/8/2016 at 10:22 pm

Hi, Jason! Love the photos that are posted. Keep on climbing; stay warm and safe. So glad you are living your dream.

Posted by: Amey T. on 6/8/2016 at 5:45 pm

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Embark on 11,200’

June 6, 2016 - 11:12 pm PT

D- Day 2016
The team launched at dawn, storming the Kahiltna, avoiding the pillbox seracs overhead and the minefields of crevasses below. After a few hours on the offensive the team took the hill at 10,000 feet and moved into a classic flanking maneuver to set up for our assault on 11K. Once the initial defenses were breached, we dug our foxholes and hunkered down to await the next wave. A reprieve came in the afternoon and the team was able to enjoy a hot meal of Mac and cheese before bedding down for the evening.  We suffered no casualties and took no prisoners.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Go Jason!!

Posted by: Hoppes on 6/7/2016 at 8:58 pm

Whoo Hoo Jason our gang is cheering you on!  Continuing to pray for you and your teams success and safety !  The Broek Family

Posted by: Broek Gang on 6/7/2016 at 4:41 pm

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