Entries By mike king

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 17,000’

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

June 29, 2015 5:20 pm PST

Hey there, it’s Billy checking in from Camp 5 on Denali at over 17,000 ft.  Our crew made the move today.  We got up super early this morning and made great time moving up the West Buttress. We’re settled in now at High Camp.  We spent some time, improving one of the campsites and building some walls.  And now everybody’s snug up in their sleeping bag hanging out in their tents. We’re sort of chilling and filling with food and water. We are hoping for a good patch of weather in the next few days so we can maybe take a crack at the summit. Yeah, that’s all for now. Everyone is psyched and doing extremely well.  We will check in again tomorrow and let you know what happens.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Climbers on the ridge en route to Camp 5 at 17,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.


RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls in from Camp 5 on Denali.

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Amazing!

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Posted by: Alice on 6/29/2015 at 8:27 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Take a Rest Day

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 28, 2015 5:18pm PST

Resting here at 14 after a big day yesterday. Clouds and sunshine are in and out along with the occasional bout of flurries. Nothing major to report. Now that we are poised and ready we are just playing a chess match against the weather. Hoping to get that window that will take us to the summit...

RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team

The RMI Dining tent at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Carry to High Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 28, 2015 12:20 am PST

Big day today… In spite of the forecast for 6-12” of new snow to fall today we awoke to partly cloudy skies, sun breaks, and only occasional flurries. Our long-shot plan to carry was a reality. We got rolling and packed up loads of supplies for High Camp and after a quick breakfast we made moves for the headwall and the fixed lines. After a few growing pains the team hit their stride and were able to put a cache in all the way up at high camp. The need for a back-carry could have hamstrung us on our move but since we cached at camp we are sitting pretty, waiting for our summit attempt weather window to open up. We’re planning on a rest day tomorrow and then it’s game on. We’re a tired bunch but we know that today’s hard work will pay off.

All for now!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Climbers ascending the fixed lines on Mt. McKinley en route to High Camp.  Photo: Brent Okita

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Take A Snow Day

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 26, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Friday, June 26, 2015 - 2:47 pm PT

It is a snowy day here at Camp 4…The gang is currently chilling in the tents and posh on our first scheduled rest day that just happened to coincide with a change in the weather. Spirits are high and we are keeping our fingers crossed for marginally better weather tomorrow and a hopeful carry up to high camp.

Quotes of the day:

“Don’t tell me how to eat my Oreos!” - Sean

“How are geriatrics and RMI guides alike? It depends…” - Art and Doug

“The wise man chooses nachos.” - Mike

“I gotta save Canada from those gosh darn moose…” - Marc

“I love pico de gallo!” - Billy

RMI Guide Billy Nugent and Team

A stormy day at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley, AK for an RMI Team. Photo: Dave Hahn

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Retrieve Cache at Windy Corner

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 26, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday June 25th 10:16 pm PT

Hola from a sunny day up here at 14k. We enjoyed a lazy morning with a good coffee session in the posh before getting down to the business of retrieving our cache down near Windy Corner. A couple of hours was all it took and we were back in camp up in the Genet Basin in time to greet Mike Haugen’s crew on their descent from high camp after their successful summit bid yesterday. Tomorrow’s plans call for our first complete rest day of the trip that will hopefully set us up for a strong performance as we venture onto the upper mountain in the coming days. The weather may get a bit funky but hopefully it’ll be nothing that will slow us down. More on our story as it develops…

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Cache at Windy Corner, Mount McKinley, with climbers in the background. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 14K Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Wulp, your intrepid team has made it smoothly and safely into Camp 4 at over 14K! Forecasts were calling for an end to our decent weather on Thursday or Friday so we decided to push up and forego a rest day at 11. The climbers have been motivated and moving strongly throughout the trip, which made the decision to move up a relatively easy one. We were greeted by RMI Guide Pepper Dee with a great looking posh and nice camp to move into.  Pepper also had plenty of cold water for us which really hit the spot after our first really hot day on the move. Not much else to report other than pretty marginal weather forecasts and a happy team sitting pretty at 14.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

An RMI team ascending from Denali's 11,000' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Cache Gear Higher on the Mountain

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Tuesday June 23rd 6:48 pm PT

Greetings from another partly cloudy day here on Denali. Great weather and calm winds enabled us to push a cache up the mountain today around Windy Corner just shy of Camp 4. We were afforded glimpses of blue skies and the upper mountain through the clouds while we were preparing and covering up our supplies. We actually stumbled upon a perfectly sized cache hole abandoned by another party so little digging was necessary. Between that and the weather we’ve been making out pretty easy thus far. No matter, our team is gelling well and ready for the challenges that lie ahead.

Sitting pretty back at 11…

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Resting at 11,200’ Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

June 22, 2015 - 6:34 pm PT

Greetings from day two up here at 11 Camp where our team is resting after a pretty mellow back-carry down to 9,600’. We retrieved the cache of food and fuel we left behind yesterday on our move up and have been enjoying partly cloudy skies and pretty civilized temperatures thus far. The team has been taking advantage of the good weather by staying on the move. Tomorrow we’re hoping to put a cache in up around Windy Corner at around 13,900’ that will hopefully set us up well for a move up to Camp 4 at just over 14,000’ in the next few days. Everyone is moving well and excited to keep on pushing up the mountain bit by bit. Not much else to report other than that the mountain feels quite empty. Not that we’re lonely or anything, just enjoying some relatively uncommon solitude up here. All’s well thus far!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley with Kahitlna Dome peaking through the clouds.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Celebrate Father’s Day at 11,200’

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

June 21, 2015 10:40pm PST

Greetings on this fine Father’s Day from Camp 3 at just over 11k’! Our team enjoyed a leisurely morning and a relatively quick and painless move up today with light loads and nice temps. After building camp we took advantage of the free afternoon to lounge around, snack, nap, play scrabble, dig a hole to bury a box, reposition some door knobs, moisten our fence wood, and general beveraging. Our gang is in great spirits and enjoyed our first evening hangout in the posh (cook tent) of the trip. Hoping for a continuation of the decent weather for tomorrow’s back-carry down to 9,600’ where we left our cache of supplies. We’re also hoping that all of our fathers had a great Father’s Day. Know that we’re thinking about you up here!

Wulp, that’s all for now.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team

 

11,200' Camp on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 9,600’

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 21, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'

June 20, 2015 9:26 pm PT

Woke up this morning… RMI GuideJake Beren was crouched in my vestibule! He happened to stop by our camp super early on his way to the airstrip to hand off some highly coveted coffee for our climbers. Thanks Jake! Soon thereafter we got up and fired the stoves ourselves. After breaking camp, the weather gods obliged us with comfortable walking temps and some cloud cover that gave us respite from the sun. Our team made short work of our move to Camp 2 at 9,600 feet, dispatching it in 3.5 stretches of walking. We enjoyed a lazy afternoon in the sun, keeping cool with sleeping bags draped over top of the tents, rehydrating and snacking until dinner. We are excited to leave the massive loads behind in a cache here which we will hopefully back-carry up to 11,000’ in a couple days.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

RMI Climbers pulling sled up Ski Hill en route to Camp 2 on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Chris Villar

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