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Entries By mike king

June 22, 2015

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Resting at 11,200’ Camp

June 22, 2015 - 6:34 pm PT

Greetings from day two up here at 11 Camp where our team is resting after a pretty mellow back-carry down to 9,600’. We retrieved the cache of food and fuel we left behind yesterday on our move up and have been enjoying partly cloudy skies and pretty civilized temperatures thus far. The team has been taking advantage of the good weather by staying on the move. Tomorrow we’re hoping to put a cache in up around Windy Corner at around 13,900’ that will hopefully set us up well for a move up to Camp 4 at just over 14,000’ in the next few days. Everyone is moving well and excited to keep on pushing up the mountain bit by bit. Not much else to report other than that the mountain feels quite empty. Not that we’re lonely or anything, just enjoying some relatively uncommon solitude up here. All’s well thus far!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

Hey Doug, You’re in new territory.  Keep it going. 
Jean & Richard

Posted by: Jean Krohn on 6/23/2015 at 6:30 pm

You are almost there! Miss you lots Charlie!

Posted by: Katelynn on 6/23/2015 at 4:02 pm

June 22, 2015

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Celebrate Father’s Day at 11,200’

June 21, 2015 10:40pm PST

Greetings on this fine Father’s Day from Camp 3 at just over 11k’! Our team enjoyed a leisurely morning and a relatively quick and painless move up today with light loads and nice temps. After building camp we took advantage of the free afternoon to lounge around, snack, nap, play scrabble, dig a hole to bury a box, reposition some door knobs, moisten our fence wood, and general beveraging. Our gang is in great spirits and enjoyed our first evening hangout in the posh (cook tent) of the trip. Hoping for a continuation of the decent weather for tomorrow’s back-carry down to 9,600’ where we left our cache of supplies. We’re also hoping that all of our fathers had a great Father’s Day. Know that we’re thinking about you up here!

Wulp, that’s all for now.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team


Hi Art, was reading your diary from your 1991 climb.  Hope you won’t encounter the weather and frostbite like that trip. My best to Charlie and the team.

Posted by: elizabeth williams on 6/23/2015 at 5:25 am

Moving strong team! Great job - hope all the Dad’s on the team enjoyed Father’s Day on Denali!

Doug - Continue to Dance on the Dragon’s Back…
“Not all men were meant to dance with dragons”
George R.R. Martin


Posted by: Belladonna on 6/22/2015 at 10:55 am

June 21, 2015

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 9,600’

June 20, 2015 9:26 pm PT

Woke up this morning… RMI GuideJake Beren was crouched in my vestibule! He happened to stop by our camp super early on his way to the airstrip to hand off some highly coveted coffee for our climbers. Thanks Jake! Soon thereafter we got up and fired the stoves ourselves. After breaking camp, the weather gods obliged us with comfortable walking temps and some cloud cover that gave us respite from the sun. Our team made short work of our move to Camp 2 at 9,600 feet, dispatching it in 3.5 stretches of walking. We enjoyed a lazy afternoon in the sun, keeping cool with sleeping bags draped over top of the tents, rehydrating and snacking until dinner. We are excited to leave the massive loads behind in a cache here which we will hopefully back-carry up to 11,000’ in a couple days.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

All your friends are here at the family BBQ, wish you were here buddy. WArren here, bet you wish you had Joe’s heated jacket right about now. I’m really sorry that you’re not drinking th beautiful Portugese red wine. And by the way, it’s not me… it’s Cole!HI Kevin, it’s Joe hahahahaha, not sure what to make of this but I saw Stacey and all yur staff at the pub today at lunch:) very nice I thought. Thanks for the round lol. Hi Kevin it’s Belinda Have to say that we are enjoying the warm gathering here…thinking of you in your subartic zone.  We did drink one on your behalf though.  Slainte mhath from the visiting teuchters! hi :) hope u enjoy the trip…albert and Duncan. All the best from the Flemings…we’re diving into Uncle Vals’ and the Pear Bottle!! Sven

Posted by: Fox Brae BBQ Gang on 6/22/2015 at 5:36 pm

Hope you had a great Father’s Day, Art. Love being able to follow your adventure. Say hi to Charlie for me.

Posted by: Bonnie Bair on 6/22/2015 at 8:08 am

June 20, 2015

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley:  Nugent & Team Carry Heavy Loads in Good Stride

Saturday June 20th 8:45 a.m. PT

First day moving on Mount McKinley was a tremendous success. As a guide, I was impressed with our crew’s ability to move smoothly and efficiently despite the very heavy loads and the cumbersome nature of the sled rigging and climbing rope. Usually it’s a couple of days before a team will hit its stride like we did today. We enjoyed clear skies and perfect temperatures. For a moment we had considered moving onto the night schedule but a cool down glacier breeze and excellent snow coverage made for safe and comfortable travel during the day. We are all in great spirits, bonding as a team and enjoying our relatively new environs.

More from our expedition as it develops.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Bonne Chance Marc et bonne aventure! On espère que ton voyage se passera bien et on attend ton retour sain et sauf.

Posted by: Yvan Champagne on 6/23/2015 at 1:26 pm

specktacularview of the mountain !

Posted by: mark and helen on 6/21/2015 at 4:56 am

June 18, 2015

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Begin Their Mountain Days

Thursday June 18th 9:30 pm PT

Hi everybody! Billy here checking in from Kahiltna Basecamp on a gloriously sunny day. We enjoyed a big breakfast this morning in Talkeetna’s Roadhouse and scooted over to the airport to confirm the fact that we’d indeed be flying first thing. A flurry of packing and final weigh-ins preceded the loading of the planes, a group photo, and a smooth departure. The great folks at K2 were really helpful and quickly delivered our team to Basecamp in two simultaneous otter flights. Next thing we knew we were on the ice and having come from summer it felt a bit abrupt but the sun was strong and kept us warm as we got accustomed to our new surroundings. We spent much of the day building our camp, organizing gear and supplies, and rigging sleds for tomorrow’s departure up the hill. The team is psyched for a big adventure and ready to work hard.

All for now!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

Art, let me know if you want me to post any favorite passages from Ulysses for your amusement on your climb.

Posted by: Bob Ryan on 6/19/2015 at 11:29 am

Hey Kevin! How how is the food situation going? We hope you haven’t had to dump any of it yet haha!

Posted by: Angela and Carmen on 6/19/2015 at 11:09 am

June 18, 2015

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley:  Nugent & Team Ready to Fly!

Thursday June 18th 10:20 a.m.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent just called from Talkeetna.  K2 Aviation is ready to fly the team onto Mount McKinley!  Once they are settled into their first camp, Billy will check in with us from the glacier.

Great looking team you have there ! Stay safe & brng home lots of stories!!

Posted by: Irma Ross on 6/22/2015 at 4:09 pm

great picture !

Posted by: MARK AND HELEN WALSH on 6/22/2015 at 1:46 pm

June 10, 2015

Four Day Summit Climb

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Mike King reached the summit this morning around 7 am.  The teams enjoyed clear skies and warm temperatures with some windy conditions.  Both teams will descend to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise later this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb Teams.

What an amazing experience.  Brent, Lance, & JM did an incredible job getting us to the summit and I had a great time meeting our team. Definitely a trip to remember. Kudos to the RMI staff for a job well done.

Posted by: daniel on 6/11/2015 at 12:21 pm

Zach and Molly…....way to go!  Summit day 4….we are so proud of you!!!!  YAY Marquette flag on top! XOXO

Posted by: Christiane & Jim on 6/10/2015 at 4:04 pm

June 4, 2015

Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir

Mt. Rainier: Muir Seminar Reaches Summit

The Expedition Skills Seminar – Muir led by RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Mike King reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier around 7 am PDT. Seth reported crystal clear skies and light wind. From the summit the teams can see down to 6,000’ where the cloud deck begins. The teams will spend a little time on the summit before beginning their descent back to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford tomorrow afternoon.

Congratulations climbers!

Congratulations from Katie, Claudia, and the rest of OPT!!

Posted by: Claudia Daghofer on 6/4/2015 at 1:51 pm

Congratulations, George Nimmo, for reaching the summit and glad you had a good day, despite the undercast. See you in a couple of days.

Posted by: George Nimmo on 6/4/2015 at 1:36 pm

May 15, 2015

Five Day Summit Climb

Mt. Rainier: May 15th Update

The Five Day Summit Climbs, led by Tyler Jones and Mike King, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! At 9:30 am PT, the team began their descent from the crater rim. Tyler reported no wind, sunny skies, and warm temperatures with a cloud deck around 7,000’.

Congratulations to RMI’s first summit teams of 2015!

February 13, 2015


Aconcagua: King & Team Back to Base Camp

We are currently back in Plaza Argentina enjoying some well deserved pizza and ice cold beverages. The team cruised down hill this morning, picking up gear and waste, leaving Aconcagua in better shape then we found it.  When your descent takes only 4.5 hours compared to the 9 days it took on the ascent, you have to just shake your head a little.

The team is all smiles, waiting on shower water to heat up, enjoying time out of their boots and laughing.

This will be our last dispatch of the climb. We will walk to Leñas on Saturday for an amazing Argentine BBQ (that’s slow cooked beef for you non-southerners).  Sunday will see us with a short hike to the road and back in Mendoza.

Thanks for checking in on us during the climb.

RMI Guides Mike King and Steve Gately

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