Entries from Alaska

Tuesday, June 9, 2026 - 11:04 pm PT

Our team woke up early this morning for the first time in many days. We packed up and moved from 14,000’ camp up to 17,000’ Camp. We walked up through the cold of the morning towards the fixed lines. After ascending the fixed lines we found ourselves on the West Buttress itself. And in all of my years I have never had such a pleasant day on the West Buttress. It was truly a day you dream about. We climbed in base layers in the sunshine weaving through the rocks looking down at 14 Camp where we started the day. It was not all sunshine and rainbows however, and the day had its fair share of struggles and suffering. After a long hard fought day we arrived at 17 Camp where we set up tents, made water, ate dinner, and prepared our gear for a summit attempt in the morning. Thank you for reading along and sorry I am not as entertaining of a writer as our climbers. We will check back in tomorrow with an update on our summit attempt!

Best regards,

RMI Guide Jackson Breen and Team

Monday, June 8, 2026 - 7:51 pm PT

D(ave): Hey ChatGPT, I’m writing a daily update blog for the 14 people following our expedition up Denali and I need some clever ideas about how to structure it so that it isn’t just a bland update about what we did that day. Can you help me generate some ideas?

C(hatGPT): Sure, happy to help. Before I get started, can you give me an idea about what you did today so that I can start to

D: Yep. Today we woke up to a delightful brunch of breakfast burritos and hot drinks, our guides then confirmed that the following day (Tuesday) we would be heading up to 17 camp from where we would then make a summit push on Wednesday or Thursday (obligatory “whether permitting” disclaimer, of course). We went over a lot of details about what to bring to 17, expectations and what to wear on the summit push - basically, it is going to be cold so bring every layer you have and the guides will give final instructions on the day of the summit push based on conditions. After brunch we brought our ice axes into the cook tent and we taped them up with foam and duct tape to further insulate our hands from the cold metal. Once we were done with that we  and brought our overboots and crampons into the tent so we could cut slits into the over boots so that our crampons fit. Ray did mine. It was like showing a horse. He was very gentle. Would recommend.  After that, we all broke up and anxiously went through our gear, making sure that we knew where everything was so that we could get an early start tomorrow. That’s pretty much it.

C: Ok, that is a great blow by blow of what happened during the day. Did anything else noteworthy, funny, or unusual happen? Do you want this update to only factual, or do you want to throw in some made up or funny things.

D: Ummm, Peter led the building of an arch with snow blocks to stay active. We listened to Alonzo’s pump up song “Into the Danger Zone”. We learned that Jackson and Ray used to neighbors and that they had opposite schedules - one getting up early while the other stays up late. Matt taught a few of us Farkle (a dice game), and Ricky gave a lecture on dark matter, dark energy, the difference between special and general relativity, and other mind bending astrophysics topics. You know, just random conversations. 

C: Ok, that is helpful. Since you are on an expedition have you thought about putting this into a cabin fever theme?

D: Yeah. I thought about that. Something like “Day 2 of sitting in the tent waiting for the storm to pass. No one is here except Peter, and his pug tattoos to keep me company. Peter doesn’t say much anymore but one of his pugs, the grumpy one, told me that I smelled today, which I thought was pretty rich coming from a dog” Anyway, I didn’t think that would go very far as it is so far from our actual experience.

C: Ok, I think I have everything that I need. Here is a clever blog post for your expedition “Today we got ready to head up to the next camp and then to the summit. Everyone is in good spirits and anxious to get going.”

D: Wait, that’s it? 

C: Yep. What did you expect. I’m not even connected to the internet.

D: Fair point. I guess I’ll go with that and close with the answers from yesterday’s secrets post. Here they are!

1. Dave

2. Ricky

3. Pattie

4. Matt

5. Alonso

6. Lacie

7. Ray

8. Peter

9. Lizzie

10. Jackson

RMI Climber Dave

Sun 6/7/2026 - 10:58 PM PST

Today’s haiku:

Heat panic in tent
White out on the back carry
Rest day tomorrow

- RMI Climbing Team

Sun 6/7/2026 6:45 PM PST

With all the prerequisite caching, acclimatization, and skills prep compete, we now hunker down at camp 14k to await a weather window. Things look optimistic for Tuesday, so between now and then we snack, rest, snack some more, get beaten by Matt at backgammon (sorry Dad, I’m in deep after losing a 64-point game), nap, chat, read while snacking, snack while reading, stretch the  legs, and repeat until dinner time. Pad Thai, let’s go! Make sure to leave room for dessert though.

We did take a break from snacking to learn how to do efficient running belays, which will become critical during our summit day. When temperatures are as low as negative 25, and wind chill potentially doubling that lower, every minute counts.

With conditions potentially deteriorating tonight, we also learned the fine art of digging a snow block quarry and constructing 4 foot high walls to block the wind from flapping our tents all night long. Good to know that if my career in proprietary trading ever stalls I can pivot to high altitiude masonry.

Ray lead construction of a magnificent new bathroom, complete with soaring white marble walls, ergonomically designed toilet platform, gender neutral urinal, and unobstructed views of the summit. If he could just rig up a heated bucket seat I might not poop anywhere else ever again.

After spending the last 11 days and nights together, chatting, laughing and snuggling in our tents (looking at you Alonso) you might think we know everything there is to know about each other. But as I’ve learned today, we all still have secrets.

What follow are blind secrets, one for each member of our team (including the guides). Only I know who wrote each one. After dinner, we will try to match each secret to its owner. For the 12 hundred readers of this blog, wager your own guesses in the comments! Answers will be provided in tomorrow’s post.

1. During college I worked in a sorority kitchen washing dishes in exchange for free food.

2. I once panicked inside a busy IKEA when I couldn’t find my way out and had to go home and sleep for three hours.

3. I once angrily told someone to shut up during a musical only to find out during the intermission that it was a disabled person and her guide, who was explaining the plot to her.

4. I have an MBA, two bachelors degrees and two associates degrees.

5. I listen to “Danger Zone” by Kenny Loggins before every major life task/event to get myself amped up and in the zone. It has worked time and time again.

6. I learned an instrument in 12 months, which lead to joining and training with the states symphony orchestra for young adults, and played one concert with the LA opera.

7. I used to ride bucking horses at the Friday night rodeo.

8. One of my favorite things to watch before bed is live ‘speed running’, events, which is essentially watching people watching people beat video games really fast.

9. I can touch my elbows behind my back.

10. My ancestors were the only family in the Donnor party to survive without losing a single family member.

- RMI Climber Peter

Sun 6/7/2026 11:40 AM

Dear reader, pardon the lateness of now-yesterday’s dispatch, but after our ascent to 14k camp, we awoke covered in frost yesterday, only to have our rest day cruelly ripped away from us. Please, sir, but a small helping of hot water for Lizzie’s single-origin Kenyan pour-over coffee? No. Instead, an unspecified group update.

Much to our dismay, our guide’s (*sigh*) relentlessly unimpeachable decision-making meant that in the face of oncoming weather, we would expedite a run to 16k feet to acclimatize and cache food for a later summit bid.

We therefore enjoyed a hasty but quite respectable breakfast of rehydrated eggs and hash browns. (What would it take for *you* to ingest a liter of uncooked egg slurry? Comment below!) As the sun rose from behind the mountain and conditions transitioned in the span of two minutes from bitter cold to oppressive heat, we roped up and set to work.

Everyone climbed admirably. With good communication and low-moderate lingering resentment, we ascended the fixed lines smoothly, cached our food, and enjoyed sweeping views of Mount Hunter (somehow now below us!) and Mount Foraker (watch out, you’re next).

In light of this progress, we now face one of the most strenuous and imposing segments of the climb: three to four rest days while the weather passes with no internet and long since exhausted even-passably-from-a-distance-clean-ish clothes.

But like ice to so many mountains, we cling to optimism. As long as we don’t lose essential gear to our guides in games of chess, and as long as Pattie has enough puzzles and Matt continues to summon answers like two six-letter countries that start with “r” and end with “a,” prospects for the next segment—like the subarctic sunlight at 2 AM—are bright.

To all 13,000 readers of this blog, we send our love and best wishes and eagerly await seeing you on the other side of the mountain.

��������������️������
- Climber Ricky

Saturday, June 6th

Burns & team make it back to Talkeetna.

Congratulations everyone!

Saturday, June 6th - 8PM PST

Late last night, the guide team received news of the passing of an NPS ranger in a tragic accident. The morning greeted us with crystal clear skies, sunshine and the mountain shining and glowing extra special. The day was spent reflecting and remembering the fallen Ranger. A mountain guide, Ski patroller, Nurse, and Denali NPS pro Ranger, she dedicated her life to selflessly serving others in the front country and in some of then most austere environments. She will be missed and celebrated. Also in our thoughts today are the RMI guides currently on NPS volunteer ranger patrols, all previous volunteers, the Pro rangers and pilots. These folks give their time, effort, and sometimes lives to make Denali the special and life changing place that it is.

The team had smooth move day to 11 camp.  We dug in Camp deep in anticipation of a short storm. Now at 11 we are looking forward to starting the acclimatization process and setting ourselves up to move further up the mountain.

-RMI Guide Team

Friday, June 5th - 6PM PST

Greetings!

We had a successful day caching at 10000’ and getting ready to move to 11 camp tomorrow. The guides have taken to the Zeppathon, listening to all of Led Zeppelin’s albums and discussing their favorites. Led Zeppelin IV seems to be a favorite. The climbers are doing great and had so much fun helping their guides dig the cache (they offered). Conversations amongst the clients have ranged from ‘how many siblings do you have’ to ‘what is your spirit vegetable?’ One of the our climbers noted what great posture one of our female guides on the trip has. Spirits are high and the sun is hot. Dinner tonight is burritos with more discussions of getting to know each other. The topic tonight is biggest regrets in life.

Cheers!

-RMI Guide Mac (with the good posture)

Friday, June 5th - 8PM PST

Welcome to Serenity Ridge! This is a rare opportunity to purchase a premiere piece of Alaskan wilderness. Nestled on a wide ridge at 14,200’, this new subdivision offers sweeping views of the Alaska Range, including Mt. Foraker, and easy access to the Autobahn, the local chess club, and the beloved eatery “The Soup God,” where you might catch a glimpse of Chef Ray in his apron. Stop by The Alonso Drafthouse for a film screening or take a walk to the National Park Service outpost. Grab a snack at The Cache! Property includes access to private helipad. Adjoining easement with Denali National Park ensures no new development. This is truly the end of the world!

This off-the-grid home was lovingly built by hand and features a cathedral ceiling, built-ins with ample storage, solar power, and two enclosed porches. Sit with your coffee in the morning and watch the clouds roll in over the tundra below! Recently remodelled with reclaimed materials in June 2026. You’ll love the rustic feel. Improvements include a reinforced foundation and a detached kitchen and bathroom, the latter of which has been well loved. With no running water, power or heat, monthly costs are low — and there’s no lawn to mow!

Don’t miss this opportunity! This is all about location, location, location! Two remaining homes for sale — two and three-person occupancies, measuring between 32 and 40 square feet. The mansion on the block — a four-person dwelling currently occupied by two — has already sold. Neighbors are quiet. (Minus the snoring.)

This is communal living at its finest!

For information on the open house, please comment below.

Listed for: One fresh package of cookie dough, two Sherpas and access to a hot shower.
Listing agent: Jackson Breen

Walkability: 20
Public transportation: 0
School system: 0
Municipal services: 0
Hospital access: 0
Nightlife: 0 (Shocker!!) 
 

Friday, June 5th - 11:30PM PST

Sleep at 17 camp is never glorious nor sound. We woke up our tired and stiff bodies feeling better the more we moved. The sun was hot on the tent, and encouraged us slowly out of our sleeping bags. Once again, the day was splitter, and we broke down camp excited to climb down the buttress.

Spectacular climbing led to one more trip down the fixed lines and back to 14 camp. We made a quick stop at 14, digging up our cache and saying hi to friends. We rigged up the sleds and wrangled them down to 11 camp where we now enjoy dehydrated meals to a short nights sleep.