Entries from Alaska
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
May 28 10:29pm PT
It was a perfect day to rest and regroup from our foray yesterday. The sun was out, temps were warm, and everything was calm. We also got a forecast that looks really promising for the next several days. We took another trip to the edge of the world - last time heat induced clouds were rising up from the glaciers below and it felt like the edge of the world, past which there was nothing, just a white void. Today we could see who down the Kahiltna and get a sense for the sheer scale of it all.
We are headed towards bed pretty hopeful that we are waking to similar weather tomorrow and good conditions to move up.
Posted by: Alex Halliday, Ben Luedtke, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Alaska Seminar
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May 28 7:43pm PT
The wind died today which meant that with the sun it felt very hot on the glacier today. We moved our camp south, closer to base camp and closer to some areas that have terrain features that are good for training and climbing. We spent the afternoon hiding from the sun in our new camp, We just finished an early dinner and are going do some evening ice climbing now that the temperatures have quelled.
RMI Guide Alex Halliday and Team
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 7,600'
We woke up to nearly perfect weather. Cool temperatures, clear skies and close to no breeze.
After a quick breakfast of Cinnamon Toast Crunch, we loaded up our packs and sleds with group meals, personal food, and some technical gear we wouldn't need over the next few days and embarked on our first carry. Yesterday was a long hard slog, but luckily the only time we move all our food and gear uphill, from here on our we will be carrying food and gear uphill, caching it, climbing past it to our next camp, and then doing a back carry to go get it. So that's exactly what we did today. We carried our gear from the base of ski hill, up towards our next camp and cached it near 10,000'.
Tomorrow we will hopefully move to 11 camp and go get the cache the following day. For now, we are all back at camp, resting in the shade, eating snacks, and prepping for our move tomorrow!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday May 27, 2022 10:41pm PT
We had a forecast that was promising. It would be blowing up high in the morning but would diminish and that Saturday looked like a promising summit day. So we woke early, and saw what we expected - winds blasting up high but otherwise clear and blue. We are a quick breakfast, broke camp, and were walking before most other teams. As we climbed a huge plunge of snow left 17 and jetted far into the atmosphere. We were glancing at it wondering how quickly the winds really would die. We were sheltered from it and moved from cold in the shade to very warm in the sun as we climbed the fixed lines. As we needed the top, a full roar made itself heard - wind in the other side of the ridge. We stepped around and into it - maybe 15 mph, not enough to knock you around but COLD. It was going to be a full-fledged fight to keep faces unfrozen, so we made the quick decision to turn back and head for 14 Camp. There it was calm and warm.
Tomorrow looks nice and well regroup and rest from today. We have some hope that Sunday into the beginning of the week will give us a shot.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and Team
We’re keeping track of all of you every day. What an amazing experience, just seeing the beauty of your pictures and reading how aware and skillful you have to be with Nature especially the great Denali. I hope you are learning a bit more about yourselves, too. Much love and prayers for your
safety and well being. Barbara/Mom
Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 5/29/2022 at 6:55 pm
Go team! Thanks for sharing your daily updates. I hope the weather calms down so that you can proceed. For the football fans amongst you, Real Madrid won the Champion’s league final yesterday against Liverpool, thanks to their amazing goalkeeper Courtois. Weather is amazing in Barcelona (this is for Albert).
Posted by: Imma on 5/28/2022 at 10:56 pm
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday May 27, 2022 10:37pm PT
It was a beautiful day today at 14,000' camp. We slept in, ate breakfast burritos, then napped, read and ate some more.
After reviewing some more mountaineering skills, we ate more burritos for dinner. With the sunny skies, warm temperatures and the menu today, it almost felt like we were in Mexico.
Stay tuned for what we get up to tomorrow!
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the Denali Team
Great progress so far! Hope you enjoy some well deserved R&R!
Posted by: Ramsay Bader on 5/29/2022 at 6:56 am
Go Team RMI - sending positive thoughts and wishes from Mount Washington NH!
Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 5/29/2022 at 3:47 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Henry Coppolillo, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday, May 27, 2022 6:55pm PT
We attempted to reach 17,000’camp today but were thwarted by high winds just above the top of the fixed lines. After several days waiting for favorable weather, we were all antsy to get moving, but the risk of frostbite made descending an easy call. We are currently back at 14,000’ camp and are going to assess our options for the coming days.
RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo and Team
“Success is not final, failure is not fatal; It is the courage to continue that counts.” — Winston Churchill
Posted by: Jami L on 5/28/2022 at 8:53 pm
We are so proud of you Michael! Keep on keepin’ on!! We are all rooting for you! Love you lots!
Posted by: Anne P on 5/28/2022 at 6:47 pm
Posted by: Alex Halliday, Ben Luedtke, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Alaska Seminar
Today we awoke to the same relentless north wind that made the air feel cold, but after breakfast we decided that we needed to get out and do some training. We walked to a nearby area of tension cracks on the glacier and practiced crevasse rescue until our brains were full. We are back in camp now resting out of the wind.
RMI Guide Alex Halliday & Team
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,600'
May 27, 2022 10:40pm PST
Hello everyone!
After a day of organizing gear in Talkeetna, we successfully flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier ready to start our much-anticipated Denali Expedition!
The last few days have been full of expedition preparation. We spent the day napping and prepping to move to the night schedule for these first few days but after hearing the weather, and talking to a few other guides on the mountains, we decided to avoid what would have been a cold windy walk in the dark and started climbing around 8 am this morning. Surface conditions made for fast moving, and the wind kept us cool. We rolled into the base of ski hill just a little after 1 pm Before taking off the boots, we unloaded group gear, and made camp.
The remainder of the evening will comprise of eating some well-deserved burrito meals, deciding what gear to cache, and getting some rest before we carry some of our gear up to 9600'.
RMI Guides Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan and Team
May 26, 2022 6:48pm PST
May 24th Denali climb checking in with our first dispatch!
After spending all day organizing, pack and repacking in Talkeetna yesterday, we woke up to perfect weather and were able to jump on the first flight around 9AM this morning. We unloaded the planes, set up camp for the first time and took a quick nap before doing a midday brunch and reviewing skills. With the warm temperatures, we will be on the night schedule for the first couple days - so we've all crawled back into our bags. and plan to wake up in the night and make our first move to the base of ski hill. Glad to be on the mountain!
Check in tomorrow.
RMI Guides Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan and Team
Wow—impressive operation! Glad you have good weather and it sounds like you’re right into it. Pulling for you Rob, so keep pushing the protein!
Posted by: Marilee Utter on 5/28/2022 at 10:13 pm
Good to see you are on your way and on schedule. Hope the Weather Gods will be kind in the days ahead
Posted by: Bob Edge on 5/28/2022 at 9:27 am
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:14 pm PT
Our first full day at Camp was a beautiful one! We slept in and then did a back carry to get all of our gear up to our camp here at 14,200'. Then we enjoyed relaxing and enjoying the sun for the rest of the day.
Tomorrow is going to be a much deserved rest day!
Thanks for following.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI Team
Love seeing this top of the world images and imagining all you strong climbers taking it in. Good luck and thanks for sending these back down to the rest of us cheering for you!
Posted by: Sarah Williams on 6/1/2022 at 6:50 am
Hi Ken! Really enjoying the updates and pictures of the magnificent scenery!
Hope you and your teammates are all doing well!
Diane & John
Posted by: Diane & John Bertosa on 5/28/2022 at 10:52 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Henry Coppolillo, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Winds and a windy forecast continue to keep us posted up at 14K. Today is a bit breezier, cloudier, and cooler at camp. We're still looking at a potentially improving weather pattern for this weekend, hopeful that wind speeds with subside and we'll be able to move up to high camp. We're about as acclimated to the altitude as were going to get on this expedition. Now it's a matter of good fortune if we get decent weather for a shot at the top. That's always a big "if" when climbing high peaks.
There's not much new to report from Genet Basin. The tents continue to stack up here, joining us in waiting for a climbing window. There are plenty of teams anxious for the opportunity to move higher. We'll keep you posted with any changes, but for now we're still in a holding pattern.
RMI Guides Mike, Henry, Abby and Team
Feeling SO proud of you, little brother. I was thinking that pushing your body to its limits in the mountains might be the easiest part of all this; it’s all the other ways that this trip is pushing you that I’m particularly awed by. You’re amazing. Thinking of you every day and rooting for that wind to settle down so you can go up and get ‘er done!!
Posted by: Rosie Read on 5/27/2022 at 12:48 pm
Hang in there guys. We’re thinking of you and hoping for better weather. The weekend starts tomorrow ,, we anxiously await your next report.
Be safe
Jan Beaudway
Posted by: Jan Beaudway on 5/26/2022 at 4:38 pm
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One safe step at a time, Rob. You are impressive. What a breathtaking experience. Keep at it!
Sending you sisterly love, and support to you and your team!
Lynn.
Posted by: Lynn on 5/29/2022 at 8:24 pm
Rob go Rob Go. My the force be with you. Cheering you on in spirit from Gina Rae.
Posted by: Gina Rae Hendrickson on 5/29/2022 at 3:06 pm
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