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Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Jones and Team Wait Out Weather

Howdy from 14k. Today we got up and planned to carry food and equipment up toward high camp at 17k. We woke up early and the air was warm with patches of blue sky showing through. While we got our morning chow the snow and wind started slowly picking up. As we walked the first hour to 15k and the base of the classic headwall of the West Buttress, the wind and snow intensity increased and visibility dropped to just a few feet.

With these conditions and the risk of avalanches increasing, we opted to descend in hopes of better weather in the next days. The team spent the majority of the day lounging in tents. Our decision to turn around was verified as we heard the constant roar of avalanches in the distance and saw 8 new inches of snow accumulate throughout the day.

Dinner tonight will bring a nice meal and psych to the team. In the mountains we must have patience and wait until we have an opportunity for safe passage. For now we gain strength and acclimatization through rest and light exercise. When Denali allows us an opportunity to go higher, we will be ready.

- RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Comments (12)

So good to hear you are all safe and living your dream. Thinking of you Nicolas and may you and the Team reach the summit in good time. Stay safe.

Posted by: Claudette (Louise's sister) on

It is reassuring to hear of your decision to wait out for better weather.
Thinking of you Nicolas!
Good luck to all of you.

Posted by: louise on

Thinking of you Chris, glad to hear everyone is safe!!!! Good luck reaching summit and your dreams…
Andrea, Alex and Theo

Posted by: Andrea, Alex and Theo on

Hey Jeff, We are following your team blog and spots.  Vince enjoyed checking out your reports also.  We are all pulling for you.  You even inspired me to climb Hunchback ridge just for exercise!  I hope you get that opening in the weather.

Posted by: Greg on

Hey Jeff, nice up and down today. Looks like you guys are into some more interesting terrain/climbing now. Now about that weather… Also don’t think for a moment you are the only one having fun right now - why, every day I spend long hours at work, mow wet grass when I get home, fix broken toilets, and… no I am absolutely not the least bit jealous. Well, okay maybe just a little.:) Glad to see you guys making such steady, strong, safe progress. Enjoy the fantastic place and adventure you find yourself in! Good luck to all of you and be safe.

Posted by: JonS on

Your prudence makes me feel good. Patience imposed by the mountain ; weather permitting you’ll keep on climbing. Je t’embrasse Nicolas, and wish you all the best

Posted by: Helene Larocque-Nolin on

Larry and crew:
Thanks for keeping us posted.  Your sound judgement and patience is wonderful.  We are routing for you to all SAFELY scale the wall and climb to the top!
Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on

Larry, hey, u still building things out of ice up there? Guys, give Larry a shovel, stand back, and be amazed! Ben

Posted by: Ben Alvarez on

Hi, Larry, Hi, Tyler, Got great weather here in Ohio, can imagine what it’s like up there! Wish I was there w/ you, stay safe, stay focused and healthy! Ben

Posted by: Ben Alvarez on

Please be careful and come home safe….still praying for better weather for everyone…kisses and hugs Chris!

Posted by: Susan on

Good decision to stay low for better weather, team.
When its safe again ,strengh and courage for the next climb.
We are all thinking of you Chris we are with you in spirit enjoy your adventure be safe.

Posted by: voula likoirgiotis on

A ray of sunshine will boost your spirits! A good meal will energize and stories will
inspire! All part of your incredible journey.Love, hugs and smiles!

Posted by: sHARON on

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More Updates


May 24, 2012

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Okita and Team at 17k’


June 9, 2012

Four Day Summit Climb

Mt. Rainier: JUNE 9th UPDATE

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