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RMI Guide Alex Barber Safe At Annapurna Base Camp

Just a quick note to you that everyone here at Annapurna is safe. Yesterday everyone came down off the mountain to wait out some heavy storms. It had been snowing steadily all day today when the large earthquake struck just before noon. It was so forceful! It felt as if we were inside a snow globe being shaken by God. The storm kept us from seeing much but we could hear avalanches ripping down the mountains all around us. The roar was so loud I thought we'd surely be hit. Annapurna Base Camp is situated on a muddy ridge clinging to an adjacent mountain. During the earthquake large sections peeled off and cascaded down some 800ft to the glacier below. Totally insane, but nothing made it to us, and everyone is safe here. My thoughts go out to everyone in Nepal, especially my friends in Kathmandu and over on Everest. Climbing Update: The 24th of April I descend all the way from Camp 4 at 7000m on Annapurna to base camp. But before I get into why I descended without attempting the summit I'll talk about the earthquake. It had been snowing steadily all morning today when, at around noon, a large earthquake struck. The earthquake was so forceful, it felt as if we were inside a snow globe being shaken by God. The storm kept us from seeing much but we could hear avalanches ripping down everywhere. The roar was so loud I thought we'd surely be hit. Annapurna Base Camp is situated on a muddy ridge clinging to a adjacent mountain. During the earthquake large sections peeled off and cascaded down some 800ft to the glacier below. Totally insane. As I write this another roar of what sounds to be a massive avalanche rips down Annapurna. On the 23rd I made my way up from Camp 3 to Camp 4. The route is straight-forward. It starts with a low angle section of ice up a serac out of camp 3. To a traversing section of steep snow then a long ramp to C4. The ramp connects the German Rib with the summit area of Annapurna. The ramp is a slope of 30 to 45 degrees and it was covered in fresh deep snow up to waist deep. That afternoon myself and another team set up camp underneath a serac at 7000m. Their plan was to start out that same night with their 4 Sherpa guides to leave at 8pm to break the route and the 4 members of their group to follow at 9pm. I decided not to attempt the summit because: - Too cold of a night to climb without supplemental oxygen - Retreat would be difficult at night as the wind was blowing too much snow and covering the track. - no previous time spent above 18,000', so I was not properly acclimatized. - too much technical ground below us - with forecasted storm by Noon the next day. - high risk of avalanche if caught above camp 2 after the storm. I descended from C4 the morning of the 23rd. As I was leaving, the members of the team that had attempted to summit started straggling in from their failed summit attempt. They were too tired to descend from C4. I re-broke the route to C3 in sketchy and quite heavy deep snow. As I dropped down a final steep descent before Camp 3 on an arm wrap rappel, I plunged into a concealed crevasse. I was already feeling quite sick from overheating in my down suit. The sun had come out and started slowly deep frying me in the down suit. But luckily I was stable enough that I could wriggle out of the suit without falling any further. Half way in a hole, about to vomit from overheating and my arm wrap biting into my forearm, I comically rolled down into C3. I was moaning in discomfort, dry heaved a few times, and laid there motionless for a time. I had to get moving again though, because the weather was coming in fast. I cached a few things at Camp 3 and started rappelling off the serac whose top forms the flat surface of camp 3. The route down the German Rib is steep and riddled with crevasses and alpine ice. But large areas of the route had deep snow blown in from the night prior. ... Another large avalanche is ripping down Annapurna... this place is quite unstable since the earthquake. Soon after completing my descent from the serac I, twice, stuck a leg into a concealed crevasse while rappelling down the further slope. I shouted to a Sherpa named Pemba from the summit team that we'd better employ the buddy system and re-break the route together. As we started down the visibility went to zero and a heavy fall of snow started. About midway down we lost our rappel lines and started carefully climbing down without the safety of the lines. Searching the snow with our ice tools for the rappel lines while slowly inching our way down. We were In a couloir with seracs all around and above us, my mind kept telling me we were in a very dangerous place to be moving so slowly. A few minutes before finding the lines again we set off a small slab slide 3 ft to our right. Things were getting spooky! Finally, we made the last rappel onto the glacier below the German Rib. Now the last hurdle was finding camp 2 in a whiteout. An island of safety in the insanely dangerous glacial field below the crosshairs couloir and sickle ice cliffs. In the reduced visibility we wove through large ice blocks of avalanche debris by GPS. We moved with baited breath - hoping not to hear that tell tale rumble that has become such a familiar sound to me here at Annapurna. The Korean team a day earlier had had a near miss right in this area. After having been on the move on a very scary mountain, in terrible weather, for 11 hours I finally arrived at Base Camp at 8:40pm that night. Descending through deep snow and limited visibility all day. At Base Camp I found out that an avalanche had hit the team at camp 4 earlier that night. No one was hurt but they had to cut their way out of their tents. They were also all exhausted from their summit attempt. Including one climber who had frostbite on his hands and one suffering from HAPE. They would later be rescued via helicopter. Three of the 5 teams here at Base Camp are leaving, The team that attempted the summit blew their oxygen supply. Another team's Sherpas bailed because of concerns that Annapurna wasn't to be climbed this year. The mountain is angry. Yet another small team's permit has run out. I was planning to stay until mid-May as now I am acclimatized and my equipment is cached. However, with recent events I'm not sure what will happen, there's a lot of hearsay... and Annapurna sounds extremely unstable right now. I've heard at least three avalanches while I was writing this. -RMI Guide Alex Barber

Comments (13)

Thanks for posting useful information about the annapurna climb. I read your complete blog and got i lot of information for my future trek plans. I really got to know about some interesting facts which I was not aware of. I have also got some useful insights from ExpedReview as well.

Thanks for posting wonderful content. Keep posting such types of blogs.

Posted by: John Andrew on

seems like a good decision … move on the task apparently assigned to you

Posted by: TaskMaster on

Safe passage for the climbing team. Is there any word on Laurence Seaton? Peace be with you all,  Cindy Frederick

Posted by: Cindy Frederick on

Alex, i have so enjoyed reading your reports.  I actually started getting cold about the time you got down to C3.  If Annapurna is not meant to be climbed this year, then you live to climb another day.

Great article.  Tks.

Posted by: Mary on

good morning.
Could you please tell me if Anne lise Marciguey and Ewen le bis are safe? French people.
thanks for your help
Regards

Posted by: le guidec on

Thanks for writing a great account of events, be safe mate, and do for others what they do for you.  You are alive and a mountaineer, and can always come back another day.

Posted by: Todd on

Ami Hashimoto: What group is your friend trekking with? I know that Ade Summers’ group is safe.

Alex: You know this, of course, but please consider that aftershocks often continue for days, even weeks, increasing the avalanche risk on an already avalanche-prone face.

Posted by: Everett Moran on

I understand you met up with a Canadian AL Hancock , my brother the family have not heard from him since the earthquake, we like to know if he is safe
Thanks

Posted by: Ken hancock on

hello.
do you know one Japanese guy,hirotaka tsurekawa who’s trekking at Annapurna? He is my dear friend,but I haven’t heared from him yet.

maybe he stayed at pengin guest house at pohkara before he went to annapurrna. and I think he tryed 10-days trekking course.

if you have any imformation about him,please tell me.

Posted by: Ami Hashimoto on

What a journey. With ur experience I have no doubt you will accuratly read the mountain and decision to carryon or retreat based on ur interpretation of the mountain and not others.best of luck mate!

Posted by: phil grech on

Alexa-
Alex is at Annapurna Base Camp currently, and reports that all of the climbing teams had descended to Base Camp prior to the earthquake. At present he says there are only 5 climbing teams attempting Annapurna, and every indication is that he is correct in saying that all climbers on Annapurna made it through the earthquake safely.

Posted by: petevandeventer on

So glad to hear you remain safe.  Is this not the most unimaginable event to happen.  Can’t make it up.  Loved your report.  Thanks for sharing. 

I bet you can still do it.  :).  Be safe.

Posted by: Mary on

where is HERE? there must be hundreds/thousands of people on Annapurna. Are you saying every individual is accounted for and safe?

Posted by: alexa blustein on

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