Today, we got an early start and walked over to the base of the Root Canal Glacier and climbed a small 800’ gully adjacent to the West Ridge of the Moose’s Tooth. We had expansive views of Denali, Mount Barille, Dickey, Bradley, Wake and Peak 11,300’. Warm temperatures forced us down early and we enjoyed an afternoon of avalanche viewing across the East Faces of Dickey and Bradley.

We are back at camp and enjoying another overcast night with hopes to fly out of the Range tomorrow!

RMI Guide Sam Marjerison

Monday, May 11, 2026 - 10:13 pm PT

Today, we bring you a poem from the team:

Snow always falling

It never stops

Saw the sun for five minutes

We nearly blew our tops

Then yet again,

The snow returned

What will tomorrow bring?

Soon we will learn…

RMI Guide Sam Marjerison

Today we launched for 747 Pass but were turned back halfway through our day due to 2-3ft of trail breaking. We are now back at camp and battening down the hatches for another round of weather! We’ve had the great pleasure of passing time with plenty of card games and a delicious dinner of Pad Thai. Tomorrow we plan to work on skills and wait until the weather breaks!

RMI Guide Sam Marjerison

Weather moved in overnight and we hunkered down and enjoyed a mellow breakfast this morning. After the storm lifted and precipitation slowed to a halt, we went for a walk towards 747 pass to put in a track and check out conditions. The trail breaking was deep and after a few miles we turned back and had a restful afternoon in camp.

 We enjoyed a wonderful evening filled with ramen and card games. Now, we patiently wait for an opportunity to begin climbing on Mount Dickey in the coming days!

RMI Guide Sam Marjerison & Team

Saturday, May 9, 2026 - 12:15  am PT

Today started slow, similar to our previous days in Talkeetna. We walked the rainy streets, drank copious amounts of coffee and waited patiently. By mid afternoon, we were ready for a nap! Suddenly, the clouds parted and we were greeted with the first blue skies of the trip. We loaded the planes and took off from Talkeetna towards the Ruth Glacier.

We flew past rivers beginning to thaw after the long Alaskan winter and our planes shadow danced below against the rocky moraine covered with fresh snow. After circling the massive East Face of Mount Dickey, we landed and made quick work of setting up camp.

After a delicious dinner, we lingered outside and enjoyed a perfect sunset.

The skies continue to be clear and blue in the midnight sun and we are excited for tomorrow!

RMI Guide Sam Marjerison

5-8-2026 4:09pm PDT

Sam and team have been able to Fly onto the Glacier. earlier today. Keep an eye out for posts fromt the Ruth Glacier! 

Today was another rainy and overcast day in Talkeetna. After another great breakfast, we shifted our focus to skills at the K2 Aviation hangar. We covered friction hitches, anchor construction and sled rigging before we sat down for a round table discussion on weather and mapping! Tomorrow, we wait and cross our fingers for the skies to clear and the opportunity to fly!

RMI Guide Sam Marjerison

Wednesday, May 6, 2026

Today started early with breakfast sandwiches and coffee from Conscious Coffee under rainy skies. With an increase in precipitation throughout the day, we focused our attention on a thorough gear check, a refresher on knots and hitches and a weigh in with all our kit at the K2 Aviation hanger. To cap off our skills day, we enjoyed a great meal at Latitude 62. Tomorrow, we hope to fly and are going to bed dreaming of sunny skies and low wind!

Tuesday, May 5, 2026

Today we met the team in Anchorage and drove to Talkeetna, excited for the next ten days of climbing together. After laying out our gear in the K2 Aviation hangar, we had a wonderful dinner at Mountain High Pizza. Glasses were clinked and food was eaten. Tomorrow, we plan to organize, sort and pack our gear in the morning before a "hopefully" quick takeoff out of Talkeetna and onto the Ruth Glacier.