Mexico’s Volcanoes: Smith & Team Summit Orizaba, Conduct Father Son Interview
Posted by: Lacie Smith, Will Ambler
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Blog- Interview style with father and son
We beg your indulgence for any poor grammar, mispelllings, provocative language, or boldface lies. We are writing on an iPhone on the bus back to CDMX. Also some of us apparently watch Anthony Bourdain videos during class.
Hardest part of the peak?
G-Descending the glacier, I was leading our rope team. i wanted to set a good pace but didn’t want anyone to slip.
What was the make or break elevation?
G- 16,800. It reminded me of being at the top of the DC on Rainier. It ‘s a point where you have to commit to finishing. Climbing Ixta was a great reference point. Once we got past 17,100, it was a new highest altitude for each of us, and once I got there I believed I could get to the summit.
What did the mountain teach you about life?
G- When things feel too hard you have to dig deeper.
Describe Pulque, and how did it affect your progress up the mountain?
E- One of the things I was most looking forward to in Puebla, after watching Anthony Bourdain’s “no reservations” in my math class, pulque or as we referred to it Mexican cactus jizz was as one would expect, pretty awful. The one redeeming quality was that it did give me the extra confidence to push through the glacier on orizaba, cause if I can tank half a liter of Pulque I can do anything.
G- I would describe Pulque as the glue you use to hang wallpaper, but slightly less appetizing, came in a cool jug though. I don’t drink, so I didn’t try it, but I am sure it puts hair on your ice ax.
How much sleep did you get?
G- That question presupposes that I got any sleep. I might have accidentally napped for 30 minutes.
E- I slept like a log from a cool 7:00 pm to when la jefa (Lacie) shook us awake at 12:30 am
First thing you did when you got to the hostel/ or off the mountain?
G- tried to clean up the tent but fell asleep on Eli’s sleeping bag.
E- shower beer.
Best mountain snack on Orizaba?
G-our amazing guide gave us meat sticks which we could not find in Mexico.
E- my 400 mg of caffeine through various supplements including guu, shot blocks, and a yerba mate from the states.
How did you prepare in the morning?
G-1st question my sanity, then put leukotape on my heels. I never get blisters when I tape up and that small ritual of taking care of my body prepares my mindfor the climb.
E- Threw in headphones and blasted some Strokes until I was able to start fighting the cold and leave the comfort of my sleeping bag.
How many times did you eat shit?
G- Not expressible in a number, it’s more a state of being. Fortunately it only happened when I was wearing my approch shoes lower on the mountain. I also caught myself as many times as I fell. Falling your way down the mountain can be a safe, acceptable means of descent.
E- Question not applicable.
G- Show off.
Worst part?
G- A couple of climbers had to turn around part way through, which was the absolute right judgment call, but made me question if I should go down too.
E- post summit I had a headache for about an hour and a half which blowed.
What new mountaineering techniques did you learn?
E-How to breathe through my nose which was only possible from 12 to 18 thousand feet. As well as more technical skills such as: climbing with a rope, walking flat footed, the most optimal height for a hiking pole( which I will be gatekeeping), and how to take a very scenic piss.
What was it like to breathe at 18k feet?
G- surprisingly easy! that elevation was my biggest worry about the trip, and I am grateful it was not a problem.
Describe the labyrinth.
G- to quote Gimli: “an impassable labyrinth of razor sharp rocks.” I really enjoyed it because it involved scrambling through mixed Ice and rock, and made my rock climbing brain happy.
Best part of Orizaba?
G-Walking up to the summit with my son was a high point of my life, not just of the trip. Also I enjoyed climbing through the base glacier above the labyrinth and listening to the crackle of the ice which was like shattering glass under my crampons.
E- Finally reaching the summit and taking in the views from 18 thousand feet above sea level.
What did you enjoy about Mexico on rest days?
G - Exploring central Puebla. It’s a gorgeous city and I will definitely come back.
E- The amazing food we found by wandering around aimlessly.
How hard was it for your dad to convince you to skip a week of your final semester of high school?
E- It was a pretty hard decision, I had to choose between sitting through my brainless Math, Government, and Bio classes or go to Mexico and climb some of the highest peaks in North America, while eating great food and meeting amazing people.
Thanks for reading,
RMI Climbers Greg and Eli Robillard
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