Entries from Mexico

Three for Three on Mexico’s Volcanoes!

A week of hail storms, dark clouds and lightning was nice and all, but as we drove closer to Tlachichuca and were treated to a stunning view of 18,500 foot Pico de Orizaba backed only by a blue sky, it felt like spring break. 

We were running early and carried that luck all the way up the two hour 4x4 road to Piedra Grande, our Orizaba high camp at 14,000 feet. Dinner was at 4:30pm, and bed time came early at 5:30pm. This allowed us room to at least claim that we’d gotten some good sleep when tents were rattled at 11:30pm. 

As we climbed under a bright half moon with light winds it seemed like cheating. After single-pushing on Ixta what we’d normally do in two days, a simple 4,500 foot climb was coming easy. That is until we hit the 17,000 foot mark and things started to grind. 

But just as things were getting tougher with the elevation, Orizaba gave us all the classics. An amazing sunrise, the pyramid mountain shadow and finally the false summit with only a short walk to the true summit. 

We all stood on top of the highest point in Mexico and third highest point in North America in the warm sun with barely any wind. 

A great finish to a strong trip by all our climbers! 

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

Puebla Rest Day and Off to Orizaba

After our single push of Ixta, the Mexico Volcanoes team deserved a rest. We took full advantage of Puebla’s welcoming streets, cathedrals and parks and mostly lazed around for a day. 

Two nights of sleep, some light sightseeing, a gold plated brisket sandwich this time, and even some parking garage yoga later, we reluctantly packed the van back up and headed to Tlachichuca. 

We’re off to attempt our highest summit of the trip, Volcan Orizaba. Wish us luck!

100% Team Summit of Ixta!

Fresh off our successful summit of Malinche dodging thunder storms, our Mexico Volcanoes team pulled into La Joya, our basecamp for Volcan Iztaccihautl, to find dime-sized hail falling and lightening cracking just overhead. 

We overheard a trip report from some nice climbers who had camped at 15,500'. “Our hair was buzzing. We threw everything metal out of the tent, then the lightening struck! I still can’t feel my thumbs!”

This pretty well made our decision for us to not walk out into the storm to our high camp on a ridge. Easy decision, but it meant that summiting Ixta the next day would be anything but easy, and could only be done in a single push from La Joya. 

We discussed with the team that this would be a very long and demanding day, and they were all excited for the challenge. 

And they crushed it! We left camp at 1am and walked the normal three miles and 2,000 feet to high camp, then turned to the upper mountain, and no one flinched. Eight and a half total hours of climbing later we all stood in the sun on the 17,169' summit of Ixta. 

Our total time on the climb was a little over 14 hours, with somewhere around 5,500 vertical feet. Half of which we normally do in a big day the day before. Strong work by our whole team!

As we pulled into Puebla around 6pm for our much needed rest day, there wasn't an open eye in the van. 

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

100% Team Summit of La Malinche!

We arrived to La Malinche cabins at 10,000 feet under sun and puffy clouds. Everyone enjoyed a pleasant walk to stretch the legs, then went to rest and prepare for our big climb in the morning. 

Around 5:30pm our tranquil mountain setting was rudely interrupted by dozens and dozens of lightening bolts and thunder that was way too close. Then the heavy rain started and as we went to bed, waterfalls and lakes were forming around the cabin grounds. 

Surprisingly, 5 am brought a starry sky and perfect climbing temperatures! And as we made our way past tree-line at 12,800 feet, a rare sight greeted us-La Malinche covered in snow almost like the old timey photos in the basecamp restaurant. 

The team was expecting a ‘training hike’, not a ‘mixed snow and ice alpine climb’, but the new snow was good walking, and after a couple belayed sections on the summit block we all gathered for a quick summit photo. Quick! Because as we smiled for the camera, thunder clapped right above our heads and it was time to go!

We walked down through dime sized hail and more thunder, which will only make the meat tower at dinner taste that much better!

Well I am happy to report that our Mexico Volcanoes team all arrived safely as of last night. We met in the lovely lobby of our Hotel Geneve and had a nice chat about what to expect in the next few days. Followed by a classic dinner of local tacos. 

We’re headed this morning to La Malinche to begin acclimating to the elevation. 

Tomorrow we go for our first summit, La Malinche at 14,500’!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

As we slowly bounced our way up the 4x4 road to Pico de Orizaba high camp at 14,000', a thick wet fog started to coat the windshield and then our tents. I semi jokingly asked our local guide Allan when the fog would clear. ‘11pm’ he replied, laughing. 

Sure enough, when we woke around 1230am, we were greeted by a starry sky and cold! A 12,000' freezing level on an 18,500' mountain had us leaving camp in pretty much all our layers, and I for one stayed in my summit parka from camp to the summit. 

We were treated to great conditions on our climb of Orizaba. The Labyrinth, commonly a confusing and tricky walk through loose then smooth then loose rock, was all easy snow. And as we passed 16,000' onto the upper mountain, the cramponing was easy. 

Our team pushed hard toward the summit, and was welcomed by a beautiful sunrise and the classic Orizaba pyramid shadow over the lowlands. We gained the summit ridge, and warm sun greeted us at the top of Mexico. 

We spent a pleasant half hour on the summit, carefully made our way back to camp, and eventually were treated to a delicious dinner in Tlachichuca. 

Congratulations to the team on a long week and some strong climbing!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

Our time spent in Puebla amongst the dozens of beautifully lit cathedrals, vibrant colonial architecture and calming atmosphere is never enough. But our two nights in the lovely Hotel Colonial and a full day of rest were just enough for the group to refresh from La Malinche and Ixta. 

After a laidback day of trinket shopping, napping and sightseeing, our group of newly relaxed climbers met for a dinner of steak and gold plated burgers last night above Puebla’s main square. The stoke was high and there were smiles all around and excitement for our final and largest mountain. 

This morning we reloaded the van and set off for Tlachichuca and 18,500’ Pico de Orizaba.

Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

After leaving La Malinche we drove towards Amecameca to gather last minute supplies before starting our climb to Ixtaccihuatl 17,340.’ 

We drove up a windy rode to the national park gate, then continued up a bumpy dirt road to La Joya, ~ 13,047’.  There, we were greeted with warm soup and tacos (great fuel before a big climb!) 

The team tidied up their packs -and spent the afternoon climbing to high camp ~ 14,500ft. 

We ate ramen, fresh quesadillas and made a plan to have an alpine start of 1:30 am. The little hours we layed horizontally was just enough to rest our bodies and minds for the summit push. The morning shuffle included coffee, oatmeal, perfect weather and many constellations in the sky to keep us company. The climb was tough and long but all worth it once we gained the ridge in time for sunrise! From the summit we were able to see where we came from, La malinche, and our next goal, Pico De Orizaba!

The team now arrives in Puebla for some much-needed rest, site seeing and great food! 

RMI Guides Lacie Smith, Joe Hoch, and Team 

Well, it wouldn’t be an international climbing expedition without some unexpected adventures. So as we drove up a mountain pass outside Mexico City on our way to our first volcano, La Malinche, and our minibus motor essentially exploded, team Mexico Volcanoes took it all in stride. 

Three hours of quality suntanning time later, our new van arrived, we gear exploded and were on our way. 

We were greeted at our cabin resort with everyone’s favorite dinner, a tower of meat, cheese and grilled cactus. The Torre de Carne righted any troubles of the day, and everyone went to bed ready to get up early and climb 14,500’ La Malinche. 

Our summit day dawned clear and beautiful and we made great time up the lower part of the mountain. People started to feel the elevation around 13000’, but the stoke was high, and around 12 noon our entire climbing team stood on the summit of La Malinche!

We celebrated at dinner with yet another tower of meat, and got ready for our next volcano, 17,159’ Iztaccihautl!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

Last night, after a successful arrival, our Mexico Volcanos team assembled at our lovely Hotel Geneve in the Zona Rosa district of Mexico City. 

We ran through intros and headed out to the local taco bar. 

The team is stoked and ready to head to our first volcano, La Malinche!

RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Lacie Smith