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Entries from Denali


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Back to High Camp After Summit

June 30, 2017 2:13 am PST

After a thirteen-hour summit day, the crew is back at high camp safe and sound. The conditions were variable all day from sunny and calm to windy and snowing. We had to break trail both to and from Denali Pass. I am proud of the whole crew and the effort that they put in for a successful summit day!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

P.S. Gloria says Happy Birthday to her dad!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Mike and team for a successful summit!!!  It must feet amazing!  Glad you made it back safely to High Camp.  Praying for a continued safe trip down and some much needed rest!  God Bless.

Posted by: Vicki Brown on 7/1/2017 at 6:01 am

my heart is beating for you all. Glo’s mom

Posted by: michelle on 6/30/2017 at 10:18 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Hold on at 14,000’ Camp

The “moving up” picture wasn’t all that clear this morning at 5 AM.  Nor was it at 6 or 7 or 8 or 9.  There was plenty of cloud about and some signs of wind on the ridges where we wanted to be.  By the time the weather had improved, it was our judgement that we’d be getting into high camp at a later hour than we’d prefer.  We traded the physical difficulty of moving up for the mental difficulty of sitting tight for one more day at 14 K.
One more day of rest, one more day of acclimatization, one more day of anticipation. 
We managed it just fine.  Ultimately the clouds closed in on 14,000’ Camp and took away our views.  We had sporadic radio contact with Mike Haugen’s RMI team as they felt their way up through higher clouds toward Denali’s summit. 
Tomorrow is our day to move!

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Team Hahn - our family loves getting your posts.  We are sending strong vibes for clear skies and low winds for the next push! 

The Tannenbaum’s - flatlanders from NY

Posted by: Jeff t on 6/29/2017 at 10:47 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Practice Patience at 17,000’ Camp

June 28, 2017 9:41 pm PST
Today our team practiced arguably the most important skill in all of mountaineering: patience. After a blustery, snowy night up here at 17K, the mountain finally came out this morning, but the upper reaches were cloaked in spindrift, lenticular clouds, and all the hallmarks of high wind. So, we decided to opt for a rest day at high camp to wait for the weather to clear up. The signs are looking more promising for tomorrow, and we’re all hoping Denali will give us a shot. Keep your fingers crossed for us for clear skies in the morning!

Hugs from 17,000’,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Excited for you Glo Roe! Can’t wait to hear all about it!
Love you!
Aunt Linda

Posted by: Linda Mills on 6/29/2017 at 9:51 pm

From the ends of the earth I call to you, I call as my heart grows faint; lead me to the rock that is higher than I.

Posted by: charles valentine on 6/29/2017 at 6:31 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Take a Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

June 28, 2017
We waited until the sun came around today to get out of the tents.  That made breakfast a little more like brunch, but everybody was happy to wait for Avery’s legendary blueberry pancakes.  Weather high on Denali was unsettled, making us a little concerned for our friends at 17,000 who’d hoped to summit today,  By midday things stabilized a little and we had a relaxing afternoon in mostly sunny and calm conditions.  Hannah McGowan led a well attended high altitude yoga session for the restless.  The rest of us rested and read.  We’re hoping for climbing weather tomorrow. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Ascend Fixed Lines to Cache Supplies

June 27, 2017
Things looked good at 6 AM today, so we rolled out, fired the stoves, rousted the team, breakfasted and got walking.  All of this was in the cold shadow before the sun came around.  Our pals on Mike Haugen’s team were two hours ahead of us, already starting the fixed ropes at 15,000 as we left 14K.  We made steady progress up the initial hills with perfectly packed snow to walk on.  The sun caught us as we neared the ropes ourselves, making it a little easier to keep hands and faces warm.  We launched up the steep headwall, getting into the rhythms of mechanical ascenders on rope, and moving crampons and ice axes on firm snow and ice.  We hit the 16,200 ft top to the lines and continued up the spectacular West Buttress to 16,400 ft.  Only Denali, Foraker and Mount Hunter were above the Alaskan sea of clouds today.  We cached supplies and enjoyed the views from our lofty perch.  Interestingly, this height wasn’t a new record for any of our well traveled climbers.  Our descent to 14,000 was relatively easy and fun with light packs.  We hope our friends at 17,000 have a nice night and a good summit tomorrow while we rest. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Dave,
thank you for your wonderful reports about your journey with all Details so that I can imagine the amazing nature you are hiking through.
The circumstances seem to be excellent and I wish all of you, specially my dear climber Hans a successful climb up to the summit.
I keep my fingers cross for you!!!! Ute

Posted by: Ute Novak on 6/29/2017 at 5:45 am

Hey Matt, keep up the great work. What an incredible journey!

Posted by: Eric Taylor on 6/28/2017 at 6:46 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move to 17,000’ Ready for Summit Bid

June 27, 2017
We are in position for a summit day. We made our move from camp at 14,000’ to our camp at 17,000’. The crew did a great job ascending the fixed lines and climbing the spectacular ridge past Washburn’s Thumb, a huge chunk of rock that towers above the route. It was a little windy on the ridge, but it is hard to complain about wind on a huge mountain like Denali.
We made a fortified camp before the clouds came up and gave us some wind and snow. The sun is starting to peak through and we are hoping for good weather tomorrow so we can get a shot at the summit!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go Glo and team! You are all marvelous!

Posted by: michelle on 6/28/2017 at 10:33 pm

Julian & team!  Thinking of you and wishing you all the best in your upcoming shot at the summit!  Praying for strength, safety, calm winds, low precip, high viz, and smiles all around! 

ch

Posted by: Cheryl on 6/28/2017 at 12:21 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Take a Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

June 26, 2017
Well we didn’t go for our carry after all.  Even though we were up early and the day was beautiful.  Over breakfast the decision was made to take a rest day instead.  All are well, but we’ve been climbing hard and we are still relatively new to 14,000 ft... we’ll bide our time.  We did rope up and go for an enjoyable stroll to the “Edge of The World” to look straight down to the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and across to the West Rib of Denali.  We posed for pictures and enjoyed the sunshine.  The afternoon in camp was pretty peaceful -as we’d hoped would be the case.  We chatted with teams descending the mountain and read our books and took our naps.  At dinner, it was story night with each team member recounting some adventure, or misadventure for the group.  Tomorrow we’ll get back to climbing. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jim,  You be the MAN!  Onward and upward indeed.  I’ll be toasting you- and missing you- at the Casino cocktail party this weekend.  Meanwhile, a stiff Kraken rum drink awaits at the Martin Box.  Your pal at sea level, Peter

Posted by: Peter Krogh on 6/28/2017 at 6:49 am

My jaw hit the ground when I looked up where you are my friend!  Incredible to see the pictures and progress you and your team are making.  Be safe and I’ll see ya back in Ohio!!!

Posted by: Gary O'Donnell on 6/27/2017 at 8:13 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Take Well Deserved Rest

June 26, 2017
Today was a well deserved rest day! Yesterday was quite the endeavor and I think everyone was happy to not have an alarm clock to answer to. We stayed cozied in our sleeping bags until the sun hit our tents and the warmth beckoned us out around 9:45 am. Emerging from our tents we wet straight into a leisurely Quesadilla breakfast, a special request by Pepper Dee, who turned 26 today! Later in the day we took a walk to the Edge of the World and everyone got to strike a pose while peering out over the vast expanse of glaciers and mountain peaks. I may be bias but I think the best picture involved a blow up couch that the birthday boy had hauled up all the way from base camp! We finished the day off with a quick dinner and chat about plans for tomorrow. If the weather cooperates we will be headed to 17,000’ camp in order to be in position for our summit bid! Yeehaw!

Good night from 14!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Julian… AMAZING!!!
Nice work pulling it up to 17K on the big wall and fixed lines.
The photo back down at The Edge in 14 camp is spectacular. Happy that you and your team that have amazing weather. Saturday looks like it might dump metres of snow again, but then you’ll be back in the clear. Best of luck!!! Stay safe.
Stephen

Posted by: Stephen Wright on 6/28/2017 at 11:03 am

What kind of pose did you strike Gloria!

Posted by: Michelle Weekly on 6/28/2017 at 1:11 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team at 14,000’ Ready to Move to High Camp

June 25, 2017
We must be doing something right to deserve this many days in a row with good weather! The team had a great day working our way up to cache gear, food, and fuel at 17,000 ft Camp. The ridge that leads up to high camp provides some incredible climbing and amazing views.  A few of our climbers commented that it was the best climbing that they have ever done. The team did so great that we earned a rest day tomorrow before we position ourselves up at high camp the day after. Superstitiously, we all agreed not to take a shower as long as this good weather holds. This shouldn’t be too tough to abide by as the nearest shower is a weeks walk away!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go, Jeff!!! 


We are loving tracking your progress.

Posted by: T + A on 6/27/2017 at 5:58 am

We are keeping our fingers crossed that the weather holds for you to reach the summit. Lots and lots of luck and love! Dad and Mum

Posted by: Liz Bannister on 6/26/2017 at 10:39 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

June 24, 2017 10:36 pm PST

And today we rested. After our big move day yesterday we felt we deserved a day of kicking back and recovering. We made a point of emerging from our tents no earlier than 10 am and got the day started out right by consuming a mountain of pancakes. Kudos to Caleb for consuming the largest pancake of the morning! By 1 pm we were wrapping up the pancake party and as you may imagine, that long of a breakfast can really take it out of you .... So we rested a bit more. Once we felt we had properly digested we reviewed fixed line travel and running belays in preparation for our carry tomorrow. After practice for a few hours it was nearly time for dinner! Funny how time flies on a rest day. We had an early dinner of gourmet Ramen and before the sun could go down on us and give way to the chill of 14 Camp we headed to bed. Tomorrow we have our first go at the fixed lines!

Goodnight from 14!
Hasta Manana

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Mother Nature has been on your side.  Good luck Marc, Tucker and team.  Brenda

Posted by: Brenda on 6/29/2017 at 8:36 am

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