Posts for Mount McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 11,200’ Due to Wind

Posted by: Billy Haas, Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 16, 2016, 5:26 pm PT

Winds overnight at our 11,200’ camp were quite formidable, but our camp survived well due to our team’s hard work in building walls in the previous days.
By this morning, the winds abated somewhat at camp, so we rose early and fired stoves. We were hoping that we would be able to climb to Windy Corner at 13,600’ to place a cache of supplies for up higher. Unfortunately, it wasn’t our day and the winds continued through most of the day.
Instead we spent the morning adding more snow blocks to our camp for further wind protection. Everyone is doing well and in good spirits. We’ll try again tomorrow to get our cache up high. That’s all for now.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Fly on and Set Up Camp

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,600'

May 16, 2015 1:09 am PT

Hi all,

While yesterday became a waiting game that ultimately left us sleeping in town for another night, this morning was sunny and blue, and immediately after breakfast, we loaded the planes and were off! The flight in was spectacular with great views of the range. After a couple hours of sorting loads, packing, and rigging, we walked out of base camp and on to the lower Kahiltna. We made great time, and now we are snugly tucked into camp after an eventful day. Time to catch some Zzzz. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Josh Maggard, Robby Young, and team

On The Map

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb Big Arapiles

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 16th 2:06 am PT

Good morning from Little Switzerland. We had an awesome day yesterday!!! We woke up to marginal weather and spent the morning mastering lead climbing techniques and tricks at the belay. As things stabilized, we broke again into groups and climbers took the lead and responsibility to guide us to Big Arapiles, both up and down; It was an incredible outing and Vanessa, Tyler, Kyle, John and Paul made us proud.

Our plan today may change, as we are receiving a ton of snow. We’ll check back in later and let you know.

Standing by from the Pika Glacier,
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand, and team

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos ascends Big Arapiles in Little Switzerland, Alaska. Photo: Bridget Schletty RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos looks across the Pika Glacier towards the Trolls, from the summit of Big Arapiles. Photo: Bridget Schletty

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Take Another Rest Day Due to Winds

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 15th 2:30 pm PT

Overnight winds here at the 11k Camp were strong, but subsided a bit by morning. We woke early and fired stoves for a much anticipated cup of coffee…followed by a breakfast of smoked salmon, cream cheese, and bagels (it’s not all about suffering up here).
Our team was ready, but the winds up above Motorcycle Hill and around Windy Corner, where we intend to place our cache, never subsided to levels that we were comfortable with.
We ended up taking another rest day here at 11k, which is always a good thing. Hopefully we’ll be able to make our cache tomorrow. We’ll keep you posted.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and the team

An RMI team's 11K Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection

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Alaska Seminar: Leon Davis & Team Ready to Go

Posted by: Leon Davis, Lindsay Fixmer, Bridget Belliveau | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Good morning friends and family!

The Alaska Seminar team here in Talkeetna is getting things done in great style. Weather is looking better with each passing hour and everyone did a fantastic job with rigging their gear. Here it is noon and we are just about ready to fly!  So the team is gonna grab a last meal in town and our next communique will be from base camp! 

Have a lovely day everyone,
RMI Guide Leon Davis

The May 14th Alaska Seminar team poses for a photo while taking a break from packing. Photo: Leon Davis

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Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team Kahiltna Bound!

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Yesterday we spent the whole day on hold here in Talkeetna. Today is a new day. This morning’s skies are clear and we’re loading up to go! We are off to climb Mount McKinley!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

The May 12th McKinley Expedition boarding the plane bound for Kahiltna Base! Photo: Pete Van Deventer

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Plan for Next Climb Objective

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 15th 1:30 am PT

Good evening from Pika Glacier camp. We are writing from the relative comfort of our posh tent, after a day of on and off fog, wind and snow. We’re all in great spirits and hoping for the weather to clear to focus on our next objective. Enjoy a couple pictures of today’s view from home. That’s it for today!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The Alaska Alpine Seminar Pika Glacier Camp. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Pika Glacier Camp and surrounding Denali National Park peaks. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Weather Day at 11K Camp

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas | May 14, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 14, 2015, 6:20 pm PT

Checking in here from 11,200 ft:  Today we awoke to less than desirable weather for a potential carry.  Gusty winds and snow prompted a welcomed rest day.  The team slept in and once awake began the process of fixing up camp and repairing the cook tent.  A multiple hour breakfast of eggs, meats, and hashbrowns gave way to some socializing around camp, and on and off napping.  The team is in good spirits and hoping to begin the eventual process of moving to 14,000 camp as soon as the weather improves.

RMI Guide Billy Haas and the team

11,200' on McKinley, Kahiltna Dome in the the distance. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team are Rigged & Ready to Roll

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 14, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Our team is assembled, or bags are packed, and we are ready to climb onboard the airplanes and take off! We spent today going through all of our gear, packing and repacking our bags, and sorting lunch food. With all of the details dialed in, we’re going to eat what is hopefully our last dinner in town for a few weeks, and catch some zzz’s. Tomorrow with any luck, we’ll board the planes first thing for one of the highlights of the trip: the stunning flight into Kahiltna Base Camp. We’ll be in touch!

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

The May 12th Denali Expedition at the NPS meeting. Photo: Josh Maggard The May 12th Denali team stroll through downtown Talkeetna, Alaska. Photo: Josh Maggard Pete Van Deventer and team checking gear prior to flying onto Mt. McKinley. Photo: Josh Maggard

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb Lost Marsupial

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon | May 14, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 14, 2015, 1:45 am PT

Greetings from Little Swiss camp!

We’re “off rappel” for the day… and what a day! Full alpine experience. We climbed the route “Lost Marsupial” on The Throne, one of the MEGA CLASSICS in the area. We had A BLAST and everybody did a great job, but also had the opportunity to experience what alpine climbing is all about. Splitter granite on the crux pitches, snow over the upward traverses in between, and getting out of our comfort zones by climbing with a pack and mountaineering boots. Big dinner followed upon arrival to camp, following the eight full length rappels that took us off the wall, and allowed us to beat the storm that now we are under. We will keep you posted on our upcoming objectives. Best that’s from the promised land of climbing that is Alaska.

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon and team

RMI Guides Elias and Sean getting ready to belay on Lost Marsupial.  Photo: Bridget Schletty

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Recent Images From Mount McKinley

  • An RM Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley with new snow.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team camped at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley fortifies snow walls and clears tents after new snow.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Crevasse Rescue on the Alaska Mountaineering Seminar. RMI Chris Villar
  • A snowy camp at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • An RM Team climbing towards 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Tent at 14,000' Camp on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI team ascending Ski Hill towards 9,800 Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: RMI Collection
  • 14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK surrounded by fortified walls. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team camped at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley, Mt. Foraker in the background.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team taking a weather day at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team pulling sled from from Base Camp en route to Camp 1 on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Chris Villar
  • An RMI team fortifies snow walls for protection from the wind at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending Motorcycle Hill with 11k Camp of Mt. McKinley, AK in the background. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending the fixed lines outside of 14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The May 19th McKinley team preparing for the climb in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • The May 19th McKinley team ready to fly in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Rob Lindner
  • An RMI Alaska Seminar Team navigating the glacier.  Photo: Kel Rossiter
  • Camp at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The view from Kahiltna Base Camp.  Photo: Seth Waterfall