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Entries from Denali


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Land on the Kahiltna Glacier

June 18, 2017
It was overcast and gray in Talkeetna this morning when the team got in for a 7AM breakfast, but we were optimistic in any case.  Things had brightened just a bit by the time we assembled in the K2 hangar, but the word was passed that fog on the glacier surface would keep planes out of Basecamp initially.  We drank coffee and fidgeted with our gear for a bit.  Then we loaded the planes.  Then we fidgeted a bit more.  Then it was time to fly and we got our boots on.  We hastily texted friends and loved ones as our two big beautiful De Havilland Otters taxied out to the runway.  We were off!  But then the fog came back over Basecamp and we did a u turn and landed in Talkeetna.  We texted, we drank more coffee and then we loaded up for real.  The flight in got markedly more dramatic and spectacular as we entered the Alaska Range.  Before we knew it, we were setting down perfectly on skis on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.  There were about a hundred climbers assembled, ready to fly home and so it was a busy scene.  We were very pleased to shake hands and give hugs to the two RMI teams finishing their adventures with Jake Beren and Tyler Jones.  Then we set to building camp and reviewing safety procedures for travel on the lower glaciers.  We’d stop every now and then to stare in wide eyed wonder at massive Mt Foraker and vertical Mt Hunter, towering over us.  Dinner, some story telling and some packing completed our big day.  We turned in at 8 PM with the sun nowhere remotely even close to the horizon.  We’ll get up early -weather permitting- and make our move in the cool of morning when the glacier surface is firmer and safer. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good weather and safe travels!!!

Posted by: Christina perez on 6/19/2017 at 9:45 pm

Hi Hans, Anja, all climbers and guides,
I try to send you sunny weather from Germany!!!
Good luck and full energy for all members…
Ute

Posted by: Ute Novak on 6/19/2017 at 11:18 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move to Camp 3

June 18, 2017
Well folks, I’m happy to report the view is indeed gorgeous! We got a little later start today due to some inclement weather, and it turned out to be the right call. Rolling out of camp at 8, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with views of Kahiltna Dome and Mt Crosson. I’d be lying if I said it didn’t make the walking a little easier! That and the fact that we opted to cache gear at our last camp and do a back carry tomorrow. So, with light loads and beautiful surroundings, we were happy to roll into Camp 3 at 11,000’ and make an extra kush home for the next few days. Joe Horiskey would be proud! We’re now all tucked in and prepping for another light day acclimatizing and making the trip down to 9,600’ to retrieve the rest of our belongings.

Good night from Camp 3!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome reading about your daily travels.  Stay safe (and thinking about Lance and Caleb on this journey) :)

Posted by: Tina Kyllonen on 6/20/2017 at 9:31 am

Glo, what a wonderful father day present to hear your voice from Denali, the great one! Our thoughts and prayers are with you as your journey continues, be safe, love u, pa

Posted by: David Roe on 6/19/2017 at 8:38 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Prepped and Ready in Talkeetna

Yesterday we converged at baggage carousel #1 in the Anchorage airport… having come from far and wide to form our Denali climbing team.  A commute with Denali Overland and our driver Bill brought us into Talkeetna, Alaska by 9 PM.  Today we got down to brass tacks and started preparing seriously to go on the mountain.  It wasn’t all drudgery as our first official team meeting was conducted over a fine Roadhouse breakfast with plenty of good hot coffee.  Introductions were completed in time for our mandatory National Park Service Orientation Slideshow at the Talkeetna Ranger Station.  We were reminded that it had been a tough season for weather on Denali, with only 30% of climbers making the summit so far.  Indeed, we’d begun the day walking the streets in steady rain.  By midday when we headed for the K2 Aviation hangar, things were beginning to look up.  We conducted a thorough check of each climbers gear and clothing as big stretches of blue sky too over.  We kept looking toward the Range as we went through sorting tents and ropes and food for the group, but the big peaks stayed well-disguised in the murk and cloud.  By early evening the loads were in order and weighed for hefting into airplanes.  The work done, we headed back into downtown Talkeetna for dinner at the bustling Twister Creek.  It is high season for tourism in Alaska.  We all relaxed a little and made final preparations for “getting on” in the morning.  Getting on a plane, getting on a glacier, and getting on a climb. 
With a little more improvement in the weather, we’ll be on our way. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Ascend Ski Hill to Camp 2

June 17, 2017
We’ve made it! To Camp 2! It was early, it was snowy, and it was sloggy but we made it! We left camp at 3:45 this morning to stick with our nocturnal schedule and to avoid the post holey conditions. Lucky for us the snow had firmed up and the walking was primo. The visibility on the other hand was little to none, and our only views were those of the rope teams in front of us. We made a few discoveries along the way, for instance uphill travel is much easier without your sled break on! After a few more hours, the occasional bump in the road, and a fair amount of pressure breathing, we pulled into the white expanse of Camp 2. I wish I could tell you views were beautiful but I’ll have to wait until the sun comes out! We’re now all cozied up in our tents, enjoying some R&R, before a tasty meal of Horiskey Mac and Cheese!

The memories of the slow ascent of Ski Hill are already fading and we are setting our sights on moving to 11,000’ tomorrow. Spirits are high and backs are strong!

Until tomorrow,
RMI Guide MIke Haugen and crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Marc and Chris,
Thinking of you two on your adventure! Hope you’re having a blast!
-Marcia

Posted by: Marcia on 6/19/2017 at 12:17 pm

Love you Gloria!

Posted by: Michelle W on 6/18/2017 at 9:23 pm


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Made It to Basecamp!

June 17, 2017 1:43 pm PST

Hello from the upper airstrip of Denali Basecamp. We made the arduous descent from high camp in snowy and windy conditions down to 11,000ft last evening. We unfortunately did not get a break from the weather… WINDS.
Today we had a very alpine start to climb down to base camp in the cold of early morning in order to reduce our chances of breaking through snow bridges on the lower glacier. We were able to do just that! After arriving we were told the normal runway was to bumpy and crevassed. The whole team finished strong up the bonus hill to the upper runway. The weather continues to follow us here in The Alaska Range as I type this blog the fog and mist hold strong for the moment. When the clouds part we will be on the first planes to Talkeetna and on our way back from an amazing trip with lots of learning, and humbling moments. We have learned that the Summits are for our ego and the Journey is for our soul. The mountain is not going anywhere and we can always come back as long as we play safe in the mountains.
High hopes for flying back to reality!

Cheers,
RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Look forward to hearing all the stories Amir !!! :-) most importantly everyone is safe and sound. Will be good to have you back ! :-)

Posted by: René on 6/18/2017 at 6:36 pm

So sorry you didn’t summit but I’m glad everyone is safe.  I am so proud of you, Bill.  Happy Fathers’ Day to a great Dad.  Love, Marie

Posted by: Marie Toro on 6/18/2017 at 7:40 am


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team on Their Descent to the Airstrip

June 17, 2017 1:26 am PST

Hi, everyone. This is Tyler Jones and the Denali team. We moved out of High Camp and we’re back at 11 Camp. We are hoping to go to the air strip sometime tomorrow. Hope all is well. Everything’s good here. Talk to you all soon. Bye.

RMI Guide Tyler Jones


RMI Guide Tyler Jones checks in from 11K Camp.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Babe,

I’m so sorry that the mountain and the weather didn’t cooperate with you guys, but I am sure it was still an amazing adventure. The girls are talking about climbing Whitney this year.. .are you up for it?  Well, maybe after you rest for a couple of days :)
You are still amazing in every way!  Still my hero, my knight in shining armor!  I love you so very much and I can’t wait to see you!!!!

xoxo MO

Posted by: Amanda Gunn on 6/17/2017 at 9:47 am

Tym, Tyler, and Team,

You may be too close to home to even get this.  So sorry the weather did not cooperate. There were reports of snow, snow, and more snow. I know how hard everyone worked and wanted this to happen.  I am confident you made strong, life-long bonds with your team who share your love of climbing. And for you Tym, three’s a charm…so maybe next year!  Best wishes for a safe trip home.

Love, Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/17/2017 at 8:54 am


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Descend to 14K Camp

June 16, 2017 11:35 pm PST

Well everyone, we hung on as long as we could at 17 Camp.  We woke to high winds and blowing snow and waited patiently for them to dissipate. They did not. After dragging our feet in vain, still hoping for some workable weather, we finally began our descent back to 14 Camp. Arriving around dinner time, the team wolfed down what could (hopefully!) be our last Mac and Cheese meal for a while and racked out for what will be a few short hours before we head downhill for this season.
While we did not stand on top of Denali this year, we are lucky to have tried and happy to be heading home none the worse for wear. It has been a real treat to all climb together and we will be checking in from further down this beautiful mountain. Wish us good luck and fair winds on the last legs of our adventure, it ain’t over yet…

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Waiting to hear you all arrived safely at base camp and are flying back to hot showers and a good meal! Praying for you Steve!
Mike and Pat

Posted by: Mike and Pat Lurakis on 6/19/2017 at 9:48 pm

Steve. A disappointment for sure. What do they say about mountains - getting to the top is optional but getting down is mandatory. Denali denied you the top so be safe getting back down. Safe travels .

Posted by: Keith h on 6/19/2017 at 9:15 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Pull Heavy Loads up Ski Hill

June 16, 2017 10:02 pm PST

Greetings from Camp 1 on Denali!

Today the team took an early morning stroll up the Kahiltna, only mildly inconvenienced by absurdly large packs and sleds packed with all the supplies as food we’ll need for the next several weeks. Traveling with so much weight takes some getting used to, and everyone is doing a great job adapting to the new systems in play. We arrived at the base of Ski Hill in a heavy snow fall, but after a much needed afternoon nap the sun came out and we were able to get a good view of our spectacular surroundings.

Tomorrow, weather permitting, the plan is to walk uphill some more! With any luck, we’ll be checking in from 9,600’ tomorrow night.

In Horiskey we trust,

RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, and Gloria Roe

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I love the red tents against the white. Must be fabulous to look around you!

Posted by: Michelle W on 6/18/2017 at 12:50 am

Pictures are aMazing!  Know there are many following you and sending you warmth and good vibes every step of the way!

Big Love to all if you!

Posted by: Ann Cook on 6/18/2017 at 12:40 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Have Smooth Start

June 15, 2017
Every once in a while in the mountains, things work out juuust right.

Our team woke up today in Talkeetna to bright blue skies, a view of the high one from town, and a scheduled flight in to the Kahiltna Glacier at 9:00 AM. And just like that, after a full breakfast, we found ourselves waving goodbye to the greenery of the Alaskan low country and saying hello to the towering masses of ice, rock, and snow that make up the Alaska Range.

The team took full advantage of the clear weather on the flight in to snap photos and marvel at the jaw dropping scenery. And then before we knew it, we were digging in camp at 7,300 feet at Kahiltna Base Camp. We passed a relaxing day snacking, sorting out our gear, and brushing up on glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills. After a tasty burrito dinner, we have finally settled in to our tents to get horizontal before an anticipated early morning push up to ski hill camp tomorrow.

Mount Horiskey, here we come!

Love to all,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go Glo!
We
Love you
Ma & Pa

Posted by: Mary Ann hickey on 6/18/2017 at 12:34 am

Julian,

Hi Daddy, we are so glad the first couple of days are going well. We hope your sled is behaving itself. we are booked to flightsee Denali on the 4th. We miss you!

Love Karen, Austin ,Lexy & Gavin

Posted by: Karen Sander on 6/17/2017 at 10:06 am


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Hanging Tough at 17,000’ Camp

June 15, 2017
Hello from 17 Camp, this is Jake Beren calling in for RMI’s Denali team.  We woke this morning to high winds up high and quite cold temps again. So we decided to pump the brakes and cross our fingers for tomorrow. Sorry to sound like a broken record, but we are hoping to give her a go tomorrow. So that’s it from 17 Camp, a little bit more of the same, but we’re all happy, healthy and hanging tough up here. So we’ll give her a shot tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Bye.

RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from 17,000 ft on Denali.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lindsay, it’s unfortunate that you could not summit ... I would still think that the journey to 17K was an amazing experience anyways. There is always another time!

Posted by: Manish on 6/17/2017 at 5:38 am

Cheryl so sorry to hear that you weren’t able to summit but I’m sure this has been a very unforgettable experience. Wishing you a safe trip home and can’t wait to see you.

Posted by: Jo on 6/16/2017 at 4:43 pm

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