Entries from Mt. McKinley
Thursday, June 20, 2019 - 6:54 PM PT
We rose early again today with another beautiful morning to greet us. In the cold we packed up camp and headed up Motorcycle and Squirrel Hills, traversed the Polo Fields and climbed around Windy Corner. After 4 1/2 hours we arrived at our current
camp at 14,200' in Genet Basin. It's been a warm and sunny afternoon here as we look down over the clouds and out to Mount Hunter and Foraker to the south. The afternoon was spent excavating and erecting camp. Tomorrow we will go back downhill to Windy Corner (13,600') to retrieve our cache. That will be a short mission, so we'll get the rest of the day to rest and home our skills for the upper mountain.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Wednesday, June 19, 2019 - 11:42 PM PT
Things started out quiet and cloudy in Talkeetna today, continuing what had been a string of manky weather. We met at the venerable Roadhouse for breakfast and the opening strategy session for our
Denali Expedition. Fortified with strong coffee, the team moved on to the nearby Talkeetna Ranger Station of the National Park Service for our mandatory pre-climb orientation and briefing. We were honored to have Roger Robinson himself give our slideshow and discussion on safety and environmental policies. Roger is in the fortieth and final year of a phenomenal and heroic career with the NPS on Denali. By the time we headed out to the airstrip to pack and organize gear at the K2 Aviation hangar, the clouds were on the run and blue sky and strong sunshine were breaking out everywhere. We conducted a thorough gear check and packing session through the afternoon, culminating in a weigh-in to get everything tagged and set for loading on the beautiful DeHaviland Ski Otters parked on Talkeetna’s tarmac. Our 11 person team -7 climbers and 4 guides- got together at The West Rib pub for dinner on the patio as cottonwood buds floated like thick snowflakes in the sunshine. Most of the team wandered on down to the banks of the Susitna River to check out Denali, shining 50 miles to the west and crowding the sky. Then it was back to the hotel to tidy loose ends and get a final night in a bed. Tomorrow looks mighty good for getting started.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Wednesday, June 19, 2019 - 8:24 PM PT
We had a smooth early morning departure from basecamp this morning. It looks like we brought the A-team! Everyone did great as we moved our heavy loads over five miles up the Kahiltna Glacier.
The weather has been great all day with sunshine, no wind, and warm temps. We were able to see
Denali for much of the day, which was a pleasant change from the overcast days we have had.
Our plan is to cache some food and gear around 10k and then come back to this camp and get ready to move up the next day. It looks like the weather may cooperate with us. The adventure continues!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Wednesday, June 19, 2019 - 4:56 PM PT
We got an early start today, leaving camp at 8:15 am headed up loaded with food and fuel to cache around
Windy Corner. The weather was beautifully clear and calm and the temps were perfect for climbing. By 11:15 we were at our cache sight at ~13,600'. After digging a deep cache hole to protect our food from hungry ravens, we started off back downhill at 12:25. By 1:15 we were back at camp with plenty of time to rest and relax. The plan is to hit the sack pretty early tonight with the intention of moving our camp up to 14,200', colloquially known as Camp 4. We'll check back to let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Wednesday, June 19, 2019 - 2:47 PM PT
We had a slight breeze all night and while the flapping fabric was not enough to keep us up the first night at
17,200’, it had several people not sleeping well. The guides got up at 6:30 am to check the wind and weather. Snow was billowing up into the atmosphere and swirling down the slopes that we would need to climb. We pumped the brakes a bit to see what the heat from the rising sun would do to the winds. After a few more hours the snow was still spinning and we decided it was too late to begin a 12-hour summit bid. The early afternoon has us resting in warm tents and taking some laps around camp to force us to breath more. Just sitting in the tent won’t help us get ready tomorrow. Our plan is to get started shortly after the sun hits camp and be on top early afternoon. Everyone is feeling better then when we first got here yesterday and anxious to finish this wonderful expedition.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Wednesday, June 19, 2019 - 7:22 AM PT
Our expedition has begun and the hard part is done. We managed to come together in the Anchorage airport from throughout North America. As a bonus, all of our gear made it through as well. We loaded up in the traditional Denali Overland van and trailer and got out of rush hour Anchorage traffic for the three hour push to the North. We couldn’t see much of the mountains as clouds were down pretty low, so we focused on enjoying the many shades of green on the valley floor. A stop for groceries in Wasilla broke up the ride nicely and we arrived in Talkeetna by 8PM. There was a brief tour of town before the team settled for the night in the comfort of the Swiss Alaska Inn. The work begins in the morning-packing and permitting.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Tuesday, June 18, 2019 - 9:21 PM PT
Our team enjoyed a rest day today, sleeping in and indulging in a cheesy breakfast scramble brunch. The day started out sunny and we were able to dry gear and charge electronics, but by the afternoon it was snowing lightly.
Tomorrow we plan to carry a cache of food and fuel to ~13,600' around
Windy Corner and then return to our current camp. That's the plan at least. Stay tuned.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Tuesday, June 18, 2019 - 9:01 PM PT
Today started out much the same as yesterday. We hurried through breakfast and headed to the airstrip to see what the flying conditions were for the morning. We received an optimistic thumbs down due to fog in basecamp. The pilots told us to be on standby because the weather was on an improving trend. After hanging out for a couple of hours we got the word that we could fly.
After an amazing flight over the lush green Alaska terrain and into the stark mountians of the Alaska Range, we were delivered to basecamp safe and sound. We spent the day getting everything organized and ready to move to our next camp tonight. We travel at night in the lower glacier because the crevasse bridges are more firm and the sleds drag much easier when things are frozen. Let's hope the weather keeps improving.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Tuesday, June 18, 2019 - 8:55 PM PT
Well, today we finally got out of 14 Camp. We had spent eight nights there and by an early season
Denali trip that’s nothing but for us and the weather we have had, it felt like an eternity. Today proved to be no cooler temperature wise, HOT going up the fixed lines and once we gained the West Buttress proper it was some of the figurative coolest ridge walking this group has done. We didn’t get great views due to thin clouds but that’s ok, our entire trip has been good views.
We don’t know what tomorrow holds and we could take a rest day if needed. High pressure is building over Denali and we are hopeful to summit tomorrow. Getting to 17 Camp can be a chore, but once you're there Camp must be built, 6 XGK stoves must be managed to make drinking water and hot water for meals. Camp is situated in a glacial depression and we can see the Autobahn which plagues climbers for the first two hours on summit day. This section gets its name from how fast you can get going if you fall and are not clipped into the running belays. Other than a long day, the Team is doing mostly well. It’s normal to not feel 100% here at 17,200’. None of us are living our best lives physiologically, but we are really excited to have a crack at 20,320’. Thanks for the support and blog comments, I’ve been saving them for an alternative pep talk tonight instead of my traditional surly high school gym coach style motivational speech.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Monday, June 17, 2019 - 11:43 PM PT
We were excited to fly up to
Denali Basecamp this morning. We hurried through breakfast and headed to the hangar where our gear was organized and ready to go. Even when we got the word that there was too much fog in basecamp to fly, we were optimistic that it would happen today. We waited into the afternoon when we finally got our chance to fly on. We got everyone and all the gear loaded up and headed to the mountain. About halfway there, the pilots could not find a way through the clouds and were not about to poke around in the big mountains without visibility. We thank them for trying and for using good judgment.
We are currently in a holding pattern and definitely not flying today. Hopefully tomorrow will be our day! Fingers crossed.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team Siete
Previous Page
Next Page
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
Good Luck, be safe!
Posted by: B Wright on 6/23/2019 at 4:50 pm
I just treed a squirrel dad and I’m being a good girl. Can’t wait for a good tummy rub!
Posted by: Lily klock on 6/21/2019 at 5:06 am
View All Comments