Entries from Mt. McKinley

Friday, June 13, 2025, 10;01pm PDT 

We’ve made it to Camp 17 and are settling in for the night. Despite my usual reservations about this camp, tonight has offered a surprisingly calm and beautiful evening—one of those rare moments that makes you pause and appreciate where you are. Spirits are high, and the team is feeling strong. We’re planning to push for the summit in the morning. Conditions look promising, and we’re ready for what lies ahead.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team

Friday June 13, 2025 10:04pm PDT

One step closer to the summit.

This morning we woke up under surprisingly warm temperatures (for Denali) and started the stoves. After a quick dinner and packing of the essential overnight gear we began our journey out of 14,000’ camp, up towards the fixed lines and onto the west buttress proper. After the steep technical climbing of the fixed lines, we transitioned to the picturesque but Exposed ridgeline that makes up the name of this classic route. Comprised of steep drop offs, and beautiful exposed granite we weaved Our way from 16,200’, to our final destination for the night 17,200’ camp.

Still blessed by sunshine and warm temperatures (again, for Denali). We quickly built our new camp, started water, and settled into our home for the night. Tomorrow is still looking good for our summit Push, and everyone is feeling all the emotions - but primarily excitement.

Our goal is to start climbing at 10am tomorrow before We roll into our long summit day. Hopefully check in tomorrow with the best news!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team

Friday, June 13, 2025 9:24pm PDT

Déjà-vu: both for climbing Ski Hill and blogging about climbing Ski Hill. So here we are again. Same same, yet also different. I put in my headphones and cue up the Hadestown OCR. “Road to Hell” begins playing.

We awoke at 2:30am. So close to the arctic circle, Denali never gets dark in June. But the movement of the sun across the skies nevertheless plays a big role in our schedule each day, as the temps - and thus snow conditions - change readily with its absence or appearance.

Today’s itinerary is to move part of our food and gear up the mountain, dig a hole in the snow - our “cache” - dump our food and gear, cover it back up, and head back down to our camp. In a few days, we will hike back to our cache from our next camp and retrieve it. This allows us to move our 22 days of supplies up the mountain in stages while we acclimate to the altitude by following a “climb high, sleep low” methodology. So, we load approximately 16 days of our food and any gear we won’t need until the upper mountain into our sleds and head up Ski Hill to Kalhitna Pass just after 4am. Ski Hill is the first significant elevation gain of our climb. Even having climbed it - twice - before, it’s surprising how interminable it seems. It’s a cold morning. With the sun still below the horizon, there’s enough light to walk by, but none to spare for warming us. Any warmth is self-generated. After several hours of marching uphill, we arrive at the base of Kalhitna pass and relieve ourselves of our burdens. The sun peeks over the ridge, and before long our shivering will become sweating as we race back downhill, unencumbered by load or slope. Matt + Kim “Don’t Slow Down” plays in my headphones.

Climber Sophia Bishop & Team

Thursday, June 12, 2025 8:54pm PDT

Denali dispatch -Don’t let her savagery fool you. This mountain has a mind of her own. Sun turns to snow and calm turns to wind. A cyclical pattern as unpredictable as the market’s response to earnings beat these days. Volatility is the name of the game, and a patience rooted in readiness is a must. When she cooperates never expect ideal but tolerable is enough. Embrace her wind and moodiness, it makes her that much more endearing.

We spent the day eating, resting, and visiting the edge of #4 the world. Let me tell you, it did not disappoint. Here are some more lessons learned for the loved ones back home.    

1. If it has a name, it means the mountain wants it to be named. For example, Squirrel hill is “squirley,” that may take a minute to digest. The names mean obstacles, and the obstacles mean hard. Don’t let the inviting nature of the titles fool you. If your guide calls a part of the mountain anything other than the route, you know you’re in for it.

 2. Pee bottles, I know to those back home this is a grotesque thought, but up here they are a gift. Embrace your gift. Own your gift. Treasure your gift. As Lacie said, under no circumstances, zero circumstances, does she leave her tent at night to pee. Now I understand her logic.  

3. Nighttime and darkness are not symbiotic here in Alaska. Night is light and day is light. Another essential item is the eye mask but really the eye shield. It’s amazing how you can trick your “I need darkness to sleep” body into submission. The titled portions on the route are extra wreck you parts, the foundation of your hard as hell sundae, and the eye mask is the cherry a maraschino cherry on top. Does anyone even like those?

4. Ditch loops are magic. Sprinkled fairy dust when you need to throw off your pack. Punches and cream? Rumple punchskin? Puncharella?

5. Healthy is consuming the most calorie dense food you can. Frozen or thawed, who cares. Eat it and eat a lot of it. #frostingdoesnotfreeze.   

6. Blue bags are a triple bag system for a reason. Do not roll. Do not wrap. Twist tie then knot, your pack and guide will thank you. Extra tips required for solving your personal poop problems.

7. A 38-degree tent is warm, sauna like warm. No cold plunges needed on this mountain, just walk outside and you’re set.

8. Foot baths in the cook tent are a no A forever no. A never again no.

9. When the guides say you have an hour before we are walking it feels more like five minutes. If you’re sitting around at any point, you are doing it all wrong. Remember cramming for tests in school? Bring that urgency and maybe you have a chance of being on time if you’re container store organized.

10. Lather on your sunscreen Even on the days you are not sure you’ll ever see the sun again. Bathe in your sunscreen. You can never apply it too often. Pro tip: bring a sunscreen stick for the extra miserable, inopportune moments you must reapply

10.Rest breaks go something like: parka, pee, sit on pack, drink, eat, apply sunscreen, drink again, throw your pack on, repeat. Super restful, obviously. Side note, just because you see another team resting it doesn’t mean you get to “rest” there too. Best not to get your hopes up.

12. Most people don’t realize there is a dry cleaner up here. The life of luxury, truly Your sleeping bag isn’t just your haven of warmth, but it serves as your personal drying machine. You know when you do laundry and you fill the machines to capacity to fit it all in one load? Or when you’re bringing groceries inside and you load up both arms to make one trip? That’s your sleeping bag. Fill her up and let her go to work.

13. Rest step. It’s as essential to your movement efficiency as brushing your teeth is to your smile.

14. Bring a pillowcase. One that smells like home. A little bit of comfort in the uncomfortable.

15. Do not assume relationships. Father, daughter, mother, son, grandparent, grandchild etc. Sure, everything is fine when you get it right. But when you get it wrong, well, someone walks away like a small child without a piece of candy from a candy store. My aunt said she is the butterfly on my pack, or this trip and she nailed it. To all the butterflies on with us, thank you. Your encouragement and belief fuels us in the valleys and celebrates with us on the mountaintops

Thank you for the continued prayers, we can’t wait to make it back home to all of you. Weather permitting, we are on the move again tomorrow, our last big push to embrace all the hard this mountain has left for us. We may have underestimated her beauty, but we never underestimate her boss-ness.

Love,

RMI Climber Caroline and Team  

Thursday June 12, 2025 10:15pm PDT

We moved to the base of Ski Hill.

Dia dhuibh, Taimid anocht i Camp 1. Ta an foireann go maith, tar eis an suil anseo. Taimid tuirseach, ach go beo. Nil eine eile anseo. Tar eis an suil, codlaimid go leir, agus ansin, bia, deoch, caint, agus sos. Is la eile amarach!

That was a special request for Tate and Sophia. They understand that about as well they understand me talking.  I have an accent!!! However, I’m not alone.  There’s a fair TexAn contingent in the group, and they taawk aaaawful slooow.  It takes them sooooo long to saaay some ot, that we’re aaaawl daaaamn neeeeear asleeeep by the time it’s finished! And then there is the very suave, some might say sesay Etienne, the French Canadian. Throw in the New Yorkers (because we can’t throw them out), and you have quite the cultural hotpot! Seriously, this team is a blast. Quick facts, stories, jokes - it helps ease the end of day pain.

Oh yes - the hike update! Up at midnight, after a weird dream where Dominic gave a graphic presentation on CMC (clean mountain can a.k.the potty) etiquette, and an old buddy of his called Timmy…. Sleds loaded, teams roped up by 3 am, and a quick 4.5-hour jaunt to Camp 1. On the way we got some early sunlight on Mt Foraker, making it illuminate like a candle.  Camp one is a ghost town. We are home alone. Tents and camp erected, water, and a very welcome sleep. Spent the afternoon lazing, with the whoosh of an occasional avalanche.

Finally, and most importantly, happy wedding anniversary to my beautiful wife Fionnuala. (you thought I’d forget!). I am the luckiest man on this planet. I love you.

RMI Climber Myles O'Neil

Thursday June, 12, 2025 9:21pm PDT

Our final rest day in the books. We let the sun warm our tents before we finally crawled out to share a meal of hashbrowns and eggs. After a relaxed and slow morning, we then spent the day basking in the sun like lizards, seeing what other climbers were offering up, and getting our gear ready for the summit push - which would be starting tomorrow.

We are all very excited and looking forward to moving to 17,000’ camp tomorrow.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team

Friday, June 6, 2025 - 10:16 pm PT

Day 7

Today was a great day, balanced with a hike and refreshers on crampon use at our 11,000-foot home. The day started cold, but we were warmed with a southern classic of biscuits and gravy. In the morning, we also had a final chance to admire Will's elegant snow columns, leading the way to the latrine. Sadly, the mountain claimed them while we were out. 

After breakfast, we took a quick trip down and back up 1,000 feet in elevation to retrieve our cache. After the final uphill in snowshoes, we happily buried them in the ground, putting them to use as tent anchors. Above this point, we're in crampons, so Lacie gave us a quick course on their use.

After class, some much needed sun gave us a chance to relax, as well as literally refill our batteries. At dinner, we found that Will had transformed his toilet columns into an enormous kitchen wall to block the weather.

We went to sleep hopeful about the upper mountain, with plans to cache at 14k before some rough weather this Sunday.

-- Charles "Carl" Stephens

Dustin, Lacie & Will's team

Friday, June 6, 2025 - 10:37 PM PT

We could hear it before we could see it, the dreaded wind. It woke us this morning, before we saw it moving snow all across the mountain. We drank some coffee, and watched to see if the winds would die down - but they stayed elevated. Drifting snow all around camp. By 10:00 am it became obvious it was going to be a weather day here at 11 Camp for our team. We had another egg and hashbrown scramble and then spent a few hours out of the wind in our tents. By the mid-afternoon, we layered up and reviewed some of the skills that will make the next day of climbing go smoothly - from running belays, to cramponing techniques, it was nice to get a refresher. After sharpening our skills we rolled into another dinner of mac and cheese and loaded our packs with the group loads for tomorrow. Though there's a little snow in the forecast, winds look more favorable for carrying.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team

Friday, June 6, 2025 - 10:45 am PT

Team Dustin/Lacie/Will rose early to low winds, partly sunny skies, & a delightful breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, bacon, & coffee. We broke camp and began our move to Camp 2 at 11,000 feet. The early part of the climb was hot with bright sun, to which one of our Lone Star State participants proclaimed “Welcome to Texas!” The weather gradually turned cloudy with snow which seems to be our mantra but we made good time up the steep terrain. We set up camp and our guides prepared yet another great dinner. The hot sauce selection is truly five stars. The team crashed in anticipation of a full day tomorrow back-carrying yesterday’s cache and training.

--Climber Robert 

PS Happy first birthday as a mom to Melissa!

Tuesday, June 3, 2025 11:11pm PDT

We left 14 today. Wind and snow. made it to the base of ski hill. Set up camp, had dinner. Hope to continue to the airstrip tomorrow!

Haikus of a Denali Descent 

Downhill we trotted

To the airstrip we plotted

Stopped short at ski hill

Wind blowing so far

Windy corner not that hard

Our team is so strong

Talkeetna awaits

Hopes of flying tomorrow

One more stretch to go

 - by RMI Guide Jackson Breen