Entries from Expedition Dispatches
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
A week ago, under the soft grey winter skies of Seattle, Jeff Martin and I hauled our 8 duffel bags from the loading curb at Sea Tac to the Korean Air check-in counter. Two window and one aisle seat, three oxygen masks safety demonstrations, about 5500 air miles, and one questionable airline fish meal later, we piled the duffels onto a rickety luggage cart and rolled them through the doors of Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan Airport into the turmoil of Kathmandu.
Since arrival our days are filled with preparations for RMI’s upcoming Everest Expedition. The array of moving parts that come together for a safe and successful Himalayan Expedition are at times overwhelming. It takes months of hard work by numerous people, both here in Kathmandu by our fantastic Nepali partners, High Altitude Dreams, to RMI’s preparations back in the States. While most of the minute to minute tasks are more of the mundane variety – from taking inventory of our lithium batteries supply (535) to the tetris challenge of packing the variety of medication and vitamin bottles into the tackle box of the Base Camp Medical Kit - the effect is invigorating. It is here in Kathmandu that the Everest Expedition morphs from the multiple separate components of focus that consumed our attention over the winter months to the cumulative creation of everyone’s efforts. It is here that the excitement builds and the climb begins to take shape. The Expedition becomes tangible and real: the tents and ropes are sorted and counted, the loads are packed and on their way by yak and porter to Base Camp, and the permit sits in front of us awaiting Dave Hahn’s signature as the Expedition Leader.
The preparations in Kathmandu also plunge us into the city’s daily chaos: dodging traffic rickshaws and speeding taxes in an almost desperate game of frogger to cross the street, navigating the narrow alley ways in order to track down a crucial item, finding relief in the living rooms of friends’ homes while sharing a cup of tea and catching up since the last visit.
On Saturday this teeming city of 1.4 million celebrated the Hindu Holi Festival, known as the Festival Of Colors – a holiday linked to several mythical tales in Hinduism and manifested in a messy, wild, and boisterous all day street party. Walking through the streets of Indra Chwok, a particularly narrow and busy neighborhood in Kathmandu’s heart, on Saturday, bands of people sang and danced in the streets, covering each other in red, yellow, black, and blue chalky powder as others dumped buckets of water from rooftops or lobbed water balloons from doorways. Amidst the frenzy of celebration, Jeff and I were greeted with shy hesitation at first –foreigners yet uncolored with powder amidst the festivities. Yet once a few brave souls rubbed our cheeks with powder we were marked: color came from every direction, buckets of water and water balloons launched our way. The hotel staff had more than a few chuckles when we walked in the door, grinning and covered in multiple colors.
This week our Island Peak and Base Camp Trek team heads into the Khumbu, followed days later by our Everest Team, and we are again immersed in the world of the mountains. The time spent with crampons on our feet is often the focus of our climbing pursuits but this time in Kathmandu is a reminder that this too is a part of the adventure - even when wearing flip flops. The months of hard work leading up to the mountain, the places we travel to, the sites we see, the people, the stories, and laughs we encounter along the way are all part of our mountaineering adventures.
- Linden Mallory
We wrapped up our seminar on Friday with more training amid the continuing snowfall. What a week – lots of snow, wind, and great training. Avalanche hazard awareness, beacon searches, and the decision-making process of travel in avy terrain dominated much of the week. We also spent quite a bit of time on camp craft and setting up expedition-style camps. Of course, rope and anchor work, fixed line travel, crevasse rescue systems and other Denali-prep skills kept us busy as well.
Good luck to the Ski Mountaineering Seminar that starts today. The ski conditions look great!
RMI Guide Casey Grom
Our RMI Expedition Skills Seminar- Winter checked in this morning from about 6,000 feet on Mt. Rainier. Six inches of snow yesterday and another foot through the night has kept Casey and Jake and the team busy training. Sturdy winter camp construction, a focus on avalanche awareness and how to travel in winter conditions have been the focus. Today’s plans include scouting the route uphill but waiting until the winds abate before attempting to move higher. Stay tuned!
Hi Elizabeth, we are thinking of you very much from Zinal! We are so proud to know you! A big hug from the bottom of our Heart! All the best for you and your team. Annick & Pieder
Posted by: Annick Chatellenaz Caduff on 3/18/2011 at 2:41 pm
Elizabeth,.. Jean just flicked me the link….wow, there’s a saying, ” if your not living life on the edge your taking up too much room”... Your on the edge!:).... You can do it:)....
Posted by: Andy patterson on 3/18/2011 at 1:50 pm
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
After a safe descent from the top of Pico de Orizaba, it was apparent how lucky we were about the weather. All around us in the valleys below storms raged, but it was relatively warm and calm on our climb. We had the whole mountain to ourselves and with a skiff of new snow on the glacier, a clean canvas for a great day of climbing. Everyone climbed well, and we needed to because Orizaba makes you earn it. After a cup of tea and a quesadilla, we loaded up the trucks and headed back to town. It was beautiful out and the mountain was covered in alpenglow by the time we arrived back in the courtyard of Dr. Reyes. After a celebratory meal, we had a solid night's rest after a big and great day. Congratulations team on a job well done!
Now it's time to say adios. Thank you everyone for sharing in an awesome trip and safe travels back home.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
P.S. Upon getting off the mountain we learned of the earthquake in Japan. Our thoughts and hopes go out to everyone in harm's way. Suerte
Hello points North, this is Jake on the summit of Pico de Orizaba with our team who did a great job today getting up in good style. We had awesome weather, light winds, warm, we are on the top looking into the crater right now. Enjoying some great views and really unbelievable day.
So thanks to everybody back home for all of the support and we will be calling you when we get down. Well, all right, that's it from the third highest point in North America.
Take care up there and we'll be seeing you soon.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
RMI Guide Jake Beren calls from the summit Pico de Orizaba
On The Map
CT - thought of you all day yesterday going up, up, up. So proud of you! Hugs!
Posted by: Holly Stuart on 3/11/2011 at 2:03 am
Congratulations Kelsey and the entire team! Can’t wait to hear all about it! xo Kirky
Posted by: Kirsten on 3/10/2011 at 7:41 pm
Hello from Piedra Grande, our high camp on Pico de Orizaba at 14,000 feet. Today we left La Malintzi and traveled to Dr Reyes's (our host and outfitter) and prepared our equipment for the climb. Then we loaded up the trucks and made our way to camp. Kind of nice to drive so high and save our legs for the climb.
Now it's off to bed to get our last full night's sleep before the big one. Hope everyone up north is doing great.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
CT—We’re rooting for you all the way to the summit! Love from your lazy Texas family!
Posted by: Delia Martin on 3/10/2011 at 6:35 am
Fortunately for the team the cloud that built over La Malinche lost some intensity and broke long enough to allow us to all stand on the summit. Congratulations on a great day! Our climb to the top of this 14,500' volcano is a major part of our acclimatization process. To get to such a high elevation and be able to rest really helps get us ready for our next few days.
Everyone climbed strong and after a big day is set for some hot showers and a good night's sleep. Well done!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
Snuggled in tent now to get up soo early for climb. Good luck and we love you, Rollie
Posted by: RollieAllen on 3/9/2011 at 4:46 pm
Mom - We hope you are doing great! Good luck on Orizaba… tonight at midnight! We love you and have a great time! XO
Posted by: Libby and Robby on 3/9/2011 at 5:10 am
"No one knew who they were. . . or what they were doing. . ."
But with help from our archeologist guide, Jorge, we got a fascinating glimpse of the ancient city of Teotihuacan. Exploring the Avenue of the Dead and the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon it was remarkable to imagine that these dry ruins once supported the bulk of central Mexico's commerce and over 120,000 people. The city is actually built on top of multiple variations of previous cities that were covered and preserved. Quite a tour of an amazing site where you could spend lifetimes unlocking the secrets buried beneath the volcanic rock.
After scratching the surface of the 2000 year old city we took a tour of a local obsidian factory where the volcanic glass is hand carved into traditional Aztec figures and masks as well as meticulously crafted silver jewelery.
By this point in our day it was time for lunch and after a very short drive we sat down to another great meal before travelling to our home for the next few days, La Malintzi. Here we will accclimatize and prepare for our attempt of Pico de Orizaba.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
You know how I love the mystical stone from ancient times Miss you Love, Rollie
Posted by: Rollie Allen on 3/7/2011 at 8:12 am
Mom - We miss you and we bet you got some “meticulously crafted silver jewelry” yesterday! Love Libby and Robby
Posted by: Libby and Robby on 3/7/2011 at 5:00 am
Everyone arrived safe and sound in Mexico City today and checked in to our lovely hotel right in the heart of the second largest city on the planet. Amazing to think that in a few short days we will be high in the alpine, far above the hustle and bustle of this metropolis.
This evening our team assembled for the first time and started the process of getting to know our teammates for the week and familiarizing ourselves with the game plan. After our first meeting we took to the streets as a light rain fell and had a great meal at an ornately decorated restaurant just a few blocks away. Well fed, our exit was delayed by an above-average Mariachi band for a few numbers giving us time to adjust and relax into local time. Back at the hotel for a few winks, we will leave the city tomorrow and explore some ancient pyramids on our way to the mountains.
Buenas noches from Mexico City,
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Eric Frank and Team
Monica enjoy. Get ready for Kili. Talk Jake into guiding us there.
Posted by: Fletch on 3/7/2011 at 4:43 am
Sue and Ct you were mentioned in church in prayer today for a wonderful climb and experience. Love to you both.
Posted by: Rollie on 3/6/2011 at 5:50 pm
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Jambo!
We are all back at the Dik Dik Hotel where it all started not so long ago. Since then, we have climbed a Big Mountain and seen wildlife galore. We had some tough moments and most recently some very easy ones. We have made some new friends and had a chance to visit with past ones.
All and all, we had a great time.
It was nice to have you following our dispatches. Thank you.
I look forward to starting my next dispatch in March with Namaste, when I return to Nepal for yet another expedition on the Big Everest.
All the best,
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
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All the best to Jeff and Linden and climbers. Great to read the blogs…about as close as I’ll be getting to Everest for a while! Having been on an expedition with Jeff and Linden, this group is in good hands and will have a great adventure. Steve di Costanzo, Redding, CT
Posted by: Steve di Costanzo on 4/21/2011 at 3:00 am
You must be headed up the mountain by now, could not find anything online this morning. Will try later. Take care! Love, MA
Posted by: Mary Ann & Howard Latimer on 3/26/2011 at 9:11 am
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