Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Nick Sinapius, Rosie Hust
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Thursday May 21, 2026 - 9:44pm PDT
Welp, we woke up to drifting snow, heavy winds, and the sun outlook of yet another weather day. Today haiku was brought to you by Adam, because it was his favorite day ever.
Wizards of the stove
Waving wands of ice and snow
What will you do next
Adam’s favorite day ever consisted of his two favorite meals. The day started with Cinnamon Toast Crunch and the day wrapped up with Zatarain’s (Jambalaya). The in-between times were filled with cribbage, rotating in your sleeping bag like a hot dog in a gas station and some more story times. The snow continued to fall throughout the day. We are still set up to carry to 13.5 whenever weather allows.
Check in tomorrow!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition May 12, 2026
Posted by: Seth Burns, Ben Thorneycroft, Margo Kerr
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 348'
Rain rain
go away
K2 said not today
Today is not looking like our day. Grey skies and on and off rain is the theme so far. We spent the morning enjoying a slow breakfast and hot cups of coffee. With our extra time we went over sled set up and rigging as well as fixed line climbing. We hope things change for us tomorrow.
Best
RMI Guide Seth Burns and Team
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition, May 19, 2026
Posted by: Henry Coppolillo, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia
Elevation: 17,800'
The whole team stood on top of Pequeño Alpamayo today! We woke up to an almost shockingly warm night, and although it still got a little chilly at 17,000' at 4 am we spent most of the day in just one or two layers and thin gloves. Conditions were vastly better than the last time I climbed Pequeño in 2024, but don't be fooled, this was still a very long, hard day and everyone had to give it their all. To even get to the mountain one first must summit Tarija, itself a glaciated 5000m peak, before descending several hundred feet of 3rd and 4th class rock terrain to the saddle with Paqueño Alpamayo, all before the really steep climbing starts. All told you essentially summit three 5000 meter peaks, since you have to climb back up the rocks to Tarija on the way back, which makes for a pretty challenging "acclimatization" day, but such is the nature of climbing in the Cordillera Real. Hannah and I are both so proud of this team and impressed by everyone's efforts both on the mountain and in the preparation at home. We couldn't be more excited for two more big summit attempts within the next week!
RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo
New Post Alerts:
Bolivia Expedition May 15, 2026
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Nick Sinapius, Rosie Hust
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Wednesday, May 20, 2026 - 9:28 pm PT
Tonight’s dispatch starts with a Haiku from Oliver:
Trango home on snow
Vented, sturdy and solid
Palace of solace
Today we woke up to a low cloud, light snow and calm winds. It was our chance to go back and grab our cache. As we let the morning slow roll, we enjoyed the the second smoked salmon meal of the trip and then geared up with empty packs and sleds and started back downhill to be reunited with our snacks and group meals we have been missing. After a quick 30 minutes of down we were digging.
We then loaded everything up, and headed back up hill for a short hour. As we finally made it back into camp, weather mellowed out and we enjoyed a solid afternoon of building a kitchen, good burritos, and snapping a quick team photo.
Weather might be a bit tough tomorrow, but when things allow we will gear up to carry to 13,500'
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition May 12, 2026
Thank you for posting this photo! It is so wonderful to see smiling faces. Sending all the best good-weather vibes and wishes to the team. Love you Bruce!
Posted by: Emily Chaplin on 5/21/2026 at 9:55 am
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Jess Wedel, Calvin Jiricko
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 11,000'
We finally had a good weather day!
Everyone was stoked that we got to cache near 14,000' Camp. We lugged extra food, some empty poop buckets, summit clothes - such as the super warm mittens (or as Jenn calls them, the "oh shit mitts") and our ascenders a few thousand feet up the mountain. The weather was spectacular. A stark difference from the cold, windy, snowy weather we had the last few days. There were dozens of rope teams out and about caching or moving camps. We made it back to tent city at 11,000' and some of us finally got to change into clean underpants! It's a good day.
Hi to Goose (the best dog) Matt, Betsy, mom and dad!
RMI Climber Katie
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 8, 2026
We’re rooting you all on! Love, Mom
Posted by: Jen LaRocca on 5/21/2026 at 7:37 pm
So good to hear from Katie and all! I have been worried about the cold cold temps! I’m sorry your trip is delayed due to weather but at least you have good acclimation time! Praying 1400 comes tomorrow! That much closer to the summit! Thank you guides and Haley and everyone for keeping an eye on our girl. And her guardian angels
Posted by: Toni Sumpter on 5/21/2026 at 3:10 pm
Posted by: Henry Coppolillo, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia
Elevation: 15,200'
Wednesday, May 20, 2026 - 4:52 pm PT
Made it up to Condoriri basecamp today with the help of about a dozen mules. After setting up camp and having lunch we kept walking up to the toe of the glacier at around 16,000,' where we spent a few hours reviewing some more advanced mountaineering skills- steep cramponing, ice climbing and lowering and rappelling. We're getting to bed early ahead of an alpine start tomorrow, we'll check in when we're all back in camp tomorrow afternoon!
RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo
New Post Alerts:
Bolivia Expedition May 15, 2026
Posted by: Seth Burns, Ben Thorneycroft, Margo Kerr
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 348'
Hello from Talkeetna!
All of our travels went well yesterday and we are moved in to our hopefully temporary accommodations in Talkeetna. Today will be a packed day with a meeting with the park service and then lots or organization and preparation for our expedition. Everyone is excited to be here and get things moving. Send us good weather vibes!
-RMI Guide Seth Burns and Team
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition, May 19, 2026
Sending all the best vibes your way! Good luck team! Go Tim and Tina!!
Posted by: Emily Chaplin on 5/21/2026 at 9:58 am
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Jess Wedel, Calvin Jiricko
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 11,000'
white noise of the night
flapping prison of nylon
sky breaks evening light
- anonymous
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 8, 2026
Wishing for more news. Are they safe? Our daughter is a member of this group.
Posted by: Sara Mayer on 5/20/2026 at 8:13 pm
Damn, bro, this is turning into The Shining.
Posted by: Grayson on 5/20/2026 at 10:19 am
Posted by: Henry Coppolillo, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia
Elevation: 14,500'
Tuesday, May 19, 2026 - 5:49 pm PT
We left La Paz in the wee hours of the morning, navigating the maze of city streets to the highway leading to Huayna Potosi. As we neared the base of Huayna we could see headlamps high on the summit ridge, an exciting preview of what's to come. The sun was just beginning to rise as we turned north on a road that seemed improbable at best in a passenger van, but our driver navigated with ease and precision while we took in breathtaking early morning views of the west face of Huayna. After creating a 16000+' pass the "road" dropped down towards the Condoriri valley, and we hopped out of the van to stretch our legs for the final few miles to the Rinconada trailhead. We set up camp in the meadow surrounded by grazing llamas and alpacas. After lunch the rest of the afternoon was spent napping and organizing gear into loads for the mules that will help us move up to Condoriri base camp tomorrow. It's great to be out of the hustle and bustle of the city and under the spectacular Milky Way sky.
RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo
New Post Alerts:
Bolivia Expedition May 15, 2026
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Nick Sinapius, Rosie Hust
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
Well, the walls we built last night turned out to be the right call. Throughout the night, the winds ramped up and snowfall continued. By the time the morning rolled around, our fate was obvious. It was going to be a weather day. With the strong winds and constant snowfall, we all snoozed our alarms and settled into our sleeping bags for a few more hours before a slow morning of scrambled eggs, ham, and English muffins. The day didn't improve much, and being outside was less than desirable, so every one settled into their homes for the day, and moved through a steady rotation of sleep, sport eating, and the occasional tv show. During any lulls, or when we all got a bit stir crazy some shoveling would partake, but most hours were spent in the tent.
We are going to wrap the night up with some Thai curry and rice noodles before heading to bed with the hope to back carry tomorrow!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
Ben and team, wishing you all a safe and exciting expedition!!
Love,
Aunt Katy
Posted by: Katy Angello on 5/21/2026 at 5:21 pm
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