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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. McKinley: Brent Okita & Team at 9,600’

The weather cooperated today allowing us to finally take in the incredible views to be had on the Kahiltna glacier. Which was nice given that we opted to make a single carry up to our camp at 9600', and at least the views helped distract us from carrying loads that were heavy beyond belief. But we all made it to camp by mid afternoon, appreciative of the fact that this was to be our last single carry for the trip. From here on, we'll be making double carries, that is, making two trips to every camp we establish and carrying only half our loads at a time. Tomorrow we'll be moving up to 11,200' and establishing camp there, but we'll leave a fair amount of our food, fuel and assorted other personal equipment not needed for the next couple of days here at 9,600'. We'll pick this gear up the day after tomorrow. This will allow us to spend longer acclimatizing at 11,200' in preparation for our move later in the week to 14,200' camp. Leon, Maile and I were impressed by the group yet again as they took to the job of getting camp set up like pros. And this after a grueling day's climb. What a great team. We are all looking forward to getting up to 11,200' tomorrow! RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mai, I love you, mom

Posted by: ginny myers on 5/23/2011 at 9:19 pm

Hi Mai and all,

Sounds like things are going well.  Will keep my fingers crossed that the wind will die down.  Lindo made it!!!!  isn’t that great…  Be safe and have fun xoxo mom

Posted by: ginny myers on 5/23/2011 at 9:17 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Garhart Check in from Camp 4

This is Solveig and Billy checking in for our team here at Camp 4. This morning we awoke to improving conditions but still not good enough to make our carry up the fixed lines. We have been enjoying sunny skies and light winds down here in camp. Social hour began after breakfast and we've spent the better part of the day getting to know our neighbors here in camp. We also spent some time getting rigged up and practicing for the fixed lines and running belays. We hope the night will bring decreasing winds and we will be able to head uphill tomorrow. RMI Guides Solveig Garhart and Billy Nugent
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

hi daddy and good luck.  we have seen your web site!

Posted by: erin and brooke saunders on 5/22/2011 at 9:28 am


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Optimistic to Move to High Camp

We're still at Camp 4 waiting for the winds to subside up high. The weather is pleasant here at camp. The forecast looks promising for us: summit winds decreasing to 30 mph by tomorrow. Hopefully we can move up to high camp tomorrow and be in place to make a summit bid the next day, or soon thereafter. Everybody is doing well and we're all eager for the opportunity to climb. RMI Guide Mike Walter
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Ken, Glad to hear that the wind is subsiding.  We hope that you are doing well.  All is going well here.  The restaurant has been busy but Rick, James, Starsha and Britt are doing a great job.  Met with Jim today about painting.  Eric is coming to help him.  Ally is great but is missing you.  Take Care..climb safely, enjoy the journey…Love Cathy & Ally

Posted by: Cathy Young on 5/22/2011 at 2:23 pm

Keep warm, stay sharp, climb strong.

Posted by: Merianne on 5/21/2011 at 10:06 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Dave’s Thirteenth Everest Summit

RMI Guide Dave Hahn summits Mt. Everest for a Record Thirteenth Time. On May 20th, 2011, Dave Hahn, Linden Mallory and their Sherpa team stood on the summit of Mt. Everest on a clear and beautiful day. Congratulations! The team has safely returned to Everest Base Camp.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to everyone. I was disappointed that Sara and her dad didn’t summit but she has a whole lifetime to try again. I’m glad you’re back to Base Camp.

Posted by: Sue Eilers on 5/23/2011 at 7:02 am

Hi Dave….and hi there LINDEN!  Congrats to Dave on #13…but a special high five to Linden for #1 on Everest.  Very happy for you.

Steve from Team Kuwaz- Kilimanjaro

Posted by: Steve di Costanzo on 5/23/2011 at 5:28 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Off the Lhotse Face

Update at 2 p.m. Nepalese Time (2:13 a.m. PST) The whole team is now off the Lhotse Face and headed toward Camp 2. Time to take a deep breath and figure the big part of the climb is over. Still have the Icefall tomorrow morning but like where we are at. Yeah! RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Linden, you are the second Mallory to reach the top of everest; congrats. You’re the top!

Posted by: b lee on 5/22/2011 at 6:24 am

GO LINDEN… i am proud of you cuz- great guiding!!
Be safe :)

Posted by: Shelby Herrod on 5/21/2011 at 1:36 pm


Alaska Seminar: Jason Thompson & Team’s Last Night on the Glacier

Hey, this is Alaska Mountaineering Seminar checking in. Last night we went to bed under increasing wind and snow. This morning we woke up to continued snow and wind and whiteout conditions.... The sun finally peered through this evening giving us a gorgeous last sunset for our time here on the Kahiltna Glacier. Tomorrow morning will be getting our flight back into Talkeetna after a great week here in the Alaska Range. Take care.


Jason Thompson checks in for their last night on the Kahiltna Glacier

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Everest Expedition: Descending to Camp 2

Just got off the radio with Dave calling from the South Col. He reports everybody is down from the summit and in good shape. They are taking a nice break, but will soon begin breaking down the South Col camp, then heading for Camp 2 where they will spend the night. All in a days work. RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Y’all are so excellent and exciting…really glad to hear and see all are safe…thanks for sharing a bit of this amazing experience…Love to ya…from Taos, NM!

Posted by: nancy on 5/21/2011 at 9:50 am

CONGRATULATIONS!!! You guys continue to keep me inspired and motivated for my next summit (no matter how small in comparison).  Thank you for the blog.  I have enjoyed following your adventure and reading every word.  Safe Travels.

Posted by: Dan Ralston on 5/21/2011 at 4:39 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Descent Begins

Downhill from here! The team's descent began five minutes ago. The group had the summit to themselves for a while at the end. We tried to do a phone call to the blog, but tough conditions as you can imagine. Just to make sure you guys hear some of the thoughts that were mentioned by Dave and Linden from the summit: - Bill and Sara hope to see you on top, another time ,and thought of you two the whole climb up today. - RMI Guide Melissa Arnot and Dave Morton over on top of Makalu today (we hope), looking forward to seeing you here on Everest in a few days. - Thanks and couldn't have done it without our local staff: Lam Babu, Tsering, Dawa, Kaji, Yubarji, Kumar, Raju, Gurung, Jeta, Gelzen, our guys in Kathmandu, Kili Sherpa, and Sagar - Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. back in Ashford, Washington. You let us run a top notch program. - First Ascent - the gear to get you there - All the friends and family back home - Linden: Wishing his Mom "Happy birthday", and spoiled old me getting my wishes from the top, for I think about the fifth time, since it being my birthday today as well. - All the other teams on the hill for such a great season and fabulous cooperation. - All you for following our blog. - And Mount Everest, for being so kind to our team. The team should be back to the South Col in a few hours. Weather still perfect, all systems in the green, guys are still having a great time. RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations!  And Happy Birthday (although I am a day late)!  I was glad to read your thoughts about seeing Sara and Bill at the top, another time, but Bill did ask his family and friends to talk him out of it next time!  I did notice that Sara did not make that same request!  I believe they were both with you in spirit.  Thank you for sharing this amazing journey with us.  Well done.
Maggie, friend of Sara’s Mom

Posted by: Maggie Tully on 5/21/2011 at 10:13 am

Congratulations on behalf of the millions who are with you all the way but never could do it themselves!!
So uplifting for all of us! Thank you, thank you.
Wolf

Posted by: Wolf Schmidt on 5/21/2011 at 7:58 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Summit!

6:55 a.m. Nepalese Time ON THE SUMMIT! Perfect conditions with some other teams around. Everybody in great shape. Congratulations to RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Linden Mallory!!! RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

The 2nd Mallory on top of Everest! Great job.

Posted by: b lee on 5/21/2011 at 12:56 pm

Very cool… On the top of the mountain!!!! Good effort by all… Thanks Tuck for all the info…. You see a good story teller! Malamo pono

Posted by: Susie on 5/21/2011 at 1:14 am


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Garhart Expedition Enjoy a Rest/Weather Day

This is Solveig checking in from Camp 4 @ 14,200'. Today our team is enjoying a rest day, which nicely corresponds with a weather day. The wind has been blowing strongly and we have received nearly a foot of new snow in camp since last night. This afternoon we saw a few sun breaks but still the wind continues! We are keeping busy with ipods, books, and sport eating (not because you need to, but because it's fun!). Yesterday the team constructed a cook shelter surrounded by high wind walls of snow blocks. We have been enjoying eating meals and taking a break from the confines of our tents in our plush livingroom/kitchen! The forecast looks like continued winds and snow through the weekend, so most likely more resting is in our future. Maybe tomorrow we will constuct a tunnel to Mike (Walter) and the other RMI team's camp! Hello to all our friends and family back home, and we'll check in again tomorrow! RMI Guide Solveig Garhart

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hi to Sergey and th team from Shapoval family! Sounds like you guys are having fun - way to go. I wish I could join in :)

Posted by: Marina on 5/21/2011 at 6:19 am

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