Entries from Expedition Dispatches
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Hey everyone. Hope all is well...
A quiet Sunday morning graced Mexico City as our team headed out towards La Malinche.
As we furthered ourselves from the capitol's carbon footprint, we stopped at a great vista of both Popo and Ixta, our first climbing objective.
We reached the resort of Malintzi and headed out for our first acclimatizing hike. We walked through pine forests and then up a broad slope to a ridge. Here we enjoyed the views of the surrounding valley.
A wonderful Mexican dinner awaits our group now...Tomorrow we head to Ixta. Everyone is excited for our first climb!
Dave Hahn reporting from Today was our planned rest day. All is well and all are feeling good. We enjoyed a calm night with a huge moon that kept Jake Norton out snapping pictures until quite late. There were a few minor headaches reported and some of the normal insomnia that comes with a first night at real altitude, but for the most part our team was bright-eyed and ready for action today. That action consisted of a relaxed breakfast and then a few sessions of organizing gear and supplies for going higher. The event of the morning was Seth Waterfall's arrival with the last of our cargo. Production people dove into cases full of new gadgets and guides sorted a few more bags of upper-mountain gear and all were happy to see Seth who'd come in at an accelerated pace to catch up with us.
Basecamp is a fairly elaborate village of tents with a few semi-permanent structures thrown in for park and medical personnel. There are about five outfitters here with independent "kitchens" and communications set-ups along with dining tents and latrines for their customers and staff. We set up the RMI tents within a stone's throw of our own outfitter -Grajales Expeditions, and they've been taking great care of us. Peter, Ed and Chad worked today to help our climbers choose what to carry higher while Melissa made contact with the park rangers and finalized the permitting process.
We became aware of an intense and sad story which had played out high on Aconcagua during the days of our trek in. A team of five had apparently been caught out in the open near the summit and had needed to endure several days of extremly bad weather before a rescue party could reach them. From what we are hearing, the rescue effort was massive, with perhaps fifty people trying to get to the stranded team from both sides of the mountain. Ultimately, there were three survivors and tragically, two deaths. Our entire team was saddened and sobered by this news, but our guide team was particularly saddened to learn that we'd lost a friend and colleague in the accident. Federico Campanini guided his own programs internationally, but on Mount Rainier he'd become one of RMI's hardest working and most dependable guides over the past three summers. We have each spent the past days and nights thinking of his skill, strength and competence as a guide... but also of his unfailing good humor and friendly nature. He will be missed. Our best wishes go to his family.
Our plan for tomorrow is to carry loads to 16,000 ft and to then return for a final night at basecamp before moving up. We'll hope the weather improves some as today finished with a fair bit of cloud and and some light snow on Basecamp. All for now, we'll let you know how things go tomorrow... new heights and new sights.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Our climbing team has assembled under a full moon in Mexico City. Some bags are on the relaxed program and will eventually find their way to our possession. Our rooms are situated with grand views of the Zocalo in the Centro Historico of the capital city. Across the way, the Presidential palace. To the left, the Cathedral Metropolitan. In the middle, a 100ft faux Christmas tree and an ice skating rink the size of two hockey rinks. After a meeting in the hotel lobby, we headed down Ave 5 de Mayo, up Motolina, and further down Ave. Tacuba to the famed Cafe Tacuba. As we ate, traditional Mexican musicians serenaded us with folk songs on their string ensemble.
With full bellies we will hit the sack as we prepare to head out of this beautiful, historic, 25 million strong capital to La Malinche for a great acclimatization hike. We'll check in tomorrow!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
We had a little weather last night with snow a few thousand feet above us. It was a pleasant suprise this morning as we woke up to clear and beautiful skies. This is my eighth trip on Aconcagua and we had the fastest trek that I have ever experienced. This was quite impressive since we were taking the time to take video and photos on the way to Trek Camp Two. This evening everyone is doing very well as we have finished dinner and are settled in for the night. We are heading to the Basecamp tomorrow, which is located at 13,800 ft. Good night from all of us.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Greetings from the Relincho Valley, Camp One on the trail into Aconcagua. This is the January Rainier Mountaineering Inc. expedition attempting to climb the "False Polish Glacier". We converged on this mountain by way of Santiago and Buenos Aeries, with the whole team meeting for the first time in Mendoza. Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs and Melissa Arnot guide the clients on our team along with me -Dave Hahn, I'm guiding... but I am the rookie on this climb having never been to Aconcagua before and am wide-eyed and excited to see a new place. So to are our four climbers: Clark Vautier, Tim Sohn, Kelley Maybo and Andrew Turner. Additionally we have a camera team and still photography team attempting to capture quality footage and images for RMI. The videographers are Gerry Moffet and Kent Harvey, along with Thom Pollard. Jake Norton is shooting digital stills and Rachel Rosengarten is overseeing the collection of both video and stills. Seth Waterfall and Chad Peele are guiding the production team. Poor Seth is still back in Mendoza as of tonight, waiting for slow luggage to fly in on a fast plane. He'll catch up with us in no time flat when the gear arrives.
Last night we stayed in Penitentes... a small settlement built around a ski area high in the Andes, perhaps 12 miles from the Argentine border with Chile. We were at 9000 ft above sea level, but passed the night in relative comfort with steak dinners and comfy beds. Fernando Grajales Expeditions of Mendoza is our capable outfitter, and this morning they organized our loads onto 20 mule backs and got us to our trailhead for a journey into the Vacas Valley. We started walking at around 10:40 AM under blue skies and bright sunshine. The mules carry up to 60 kilos each... we carried slightly less for what will be a three-day trek into basecamp. The Vacas River was churning along in a series of rapids next to the trail and we gained altitude slowly on easy terrain. The terrain is stark and bare, with towering cliffs and scree slopes limiting the views. At first we had a few trees along the path, but before long, we were down to small shrubs, grass and the odd flower patch. Most wore shorts and T-shirts for the first few hours, but as afternoon came on the sky filled with clouds and we endured brief showers from time to time. We did pass over a couple of old and dirty snowbanks that had obviously become the final remnants of great avalanche debris piles that were deposited during the last Austral Winter. Peter -a veteran of 7 previous Aconcagua expeditions- views such evidence of a heavy winter positively, pointing out that our climb to the summit will be easier if there is more snow and less dirt and rock up high. Our camp tonight at Las Lenas is situated at 9400 ft. The gang put down a big pot of Chad's famous spiral pasta with red sauce and chicken chucked in for dinner. The clouds are now clearing, the sun is down and the light is fading. We can see new snow left by the afternoon showers on the high rock slopes above us. We'll call it a day for now... the first of potentially 18 on the mountain.
A climb to the top of Mount Rainier led be RMI Expeditions in 2008
Posted by: Seth Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Back to Talkeetna! We started the day at 14,000 with an early wake up. The weather was looking like it wanted to get worse, so we hurriedly packed up camp and began our decent to the air strip. After picking up our cached gear at the 11,000’ Camp and making great time on the lower Kahiltna, we arrived at the air strip only to be greeted by four teams of climbers waiting to fly off. The weather had been ‘iffy’ all day and none of the air services had landed yet.
Soon after we arrived we got word that Jay Hudson was going to fly in and see if the visibility was good enough to land. An hour later we could hear his planes coming to get us. It felt like special treatment being the last to arrive that day and the first to leave but that’s why we fly with Jay!
Forty five minutes later we landed back in Talkeetna. After a brief unpacking job we all disbanded to our respective hotels for the first showers in twenty days. Then we all met for a celebration dinner on the deck at the West Rib Pub. Tomorrow we’ll be going our separate ways back to our families and loved ones.
Great trip guys!
On The Map
Start the descent. Today we woke up to our old friend the wind. We realized that we were lucky with the weather the day before. The wind had picked up again and for a while we thought that we would be stuck at 17,000 for the day. At three o’clock we decided to make a break for it and packed up camp. Four hours later we pulled into 14,000’ Camp. It felt good to be lower on the mountain and after a solid dinner we all passed out.
On The Map
SUMMIT DAY!!! And how sweet it was! Let’s start from the beginning of the day. 12:00a.m. Lucia has been snoring for a few hours. I’m wide-awake listening to the wind blow the tent around and stressing about summiting. I guess that’s the difference between someone on their first climb here and someone on their 11th.
4:00 a.m. The wind still blows, I still stress... Lucia snores.
5:00 a.m. Still windy. I resign myself to the fate of not climbing Denali. I’m OK with it, it was fun, I learned a ton, and everyone had a good time. Sometimes the mountain just won’t let you climb. It’s OK. Lucia is still sound asleep.
6:45 a.m. I hear rustling coming from Lucia’s side of the tent. I’m wondering what he’s up to, as the night before when I had suggested that we start the stoves at seven he said, “it’s too cold then, we’ll start them at 8.” Then I notice the wind, actually the lack of wind is what I notice. Lucia pokes his head out the vestibule and pulls it back in quickly. “Dude, it’s really nice outside. Let’s go!” So we get up and put our boots on.
Lucia starts the stoves. We fill our water bottles and have instant grits and hot drinks for breakfast. After packing our last minute things we’re off. It’s just after nine o’clock.
It takes us two about 2 hours to climb to Denali Pass. There are a few other groups out today. The nice weather has brought everyone out. We take a break with two of them just below Zebra Rocks.
We then ascend the ridge to the ‘football field’. The weather is still holding, but it’s noticeably colder here above 19,000 feet. There are a few clouds wisping over the summit and we anticipate high winds on the summit ridge. We climb Pig Hill to the summit ridge and are rewarded with a spectacular view down to the Kahiltna. We then proceed along the steep ridge to the summit. It’s 5:30 in the evening and we’re standing on the roof of North America on a calm, clear day.
After a few rounds of congratulating and picture taking (Andy brought three different banners to get photos with) we enjoy the last few moments of ‘top time’ and descend to the football field. Then, we descended to Denali Pass in very warm conditions. As the sun dropped low in the sky we climbed down back to camp.
At camp we were greeted by the second RMI trip of the season led by Mike Walter and Tyler Jones. It was doubly great to see those guys as they had 3 pots of water waiting for us.
All in all it was an eleven-hour summit day. We were very happy to crawl into our tents and get some well-deserved shut-eye.
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You all have enormous courage.
I’m glad you made up there, and come down safely.
Posted by: Nikki on 10/19/2020 at 9:33 pm
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