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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Rainier: August 7th Summit!

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Steve Gately reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Steve reported clear skies and a light breeze. They are on the descent and will be back to Camp Muir in a few short hours. Congratulations Team!
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I check these blog updates almost daily! I know RMI and Rainier have a lot of climbs throughout the season but it would be interesting for sure to write maybe a bit more of the Rainier climbs. Maybe a great story from a guide or climber that was told. A crazy food that was brought up on the mountain. Ask the guides who are working the climb to share a bit more. It could be Steves 10th Rainier summit or another important summit for another guide on the team. Food for thought from a lover of climbing blogs. Thank you

Posted by: Darren Chromey on 8/7/2019 at 11:24 am


Mt. Baker: Smith & Team Go 100% to the Top via the Easton Glacier!

Hannah Smith called in by SAT Phone this morning to let us know that the entire team had reached the summit of Mt. Baker via the Easton Glacier route. She reported excellent warm weather and a great route. The team has begun their descent and will return to town today for showers and a fresh meal. Congratulations to today's climbers!
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CONGRATULATIONS
MT. BAKER TEAM !!

Very proud of you Peter Gaeta !!

Posted by: Doreen Kaplan on 8/6/2019 at 1:39 pm

Congratulations, I am in awe of your bravery and hard work!

Posted by: Judy Costigan on 8/6/2019 at 1:08 pm


Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team at Their First Camp

From first light this morning at the Arumeru River Lodge, Kilimanjaro could be seen towering in the distance, free of the normal cloud cover. The purists in the group maintained that the air was still "a little hazy" but the rest of us were simply thankful for the view and the chance to start our climb without rain in the air and mud on the trail. We’d finished breakfast and the “duffel shuffle” by 8 AM and so we loaded up on our bus for the 90 minute ride to the park entrance. The team stayed alert for the ride, alternating between staring at the rapidly growing mountain on the horizon and watching the Tanzanians beginning their day in the towns and villages along the highway. The bus began to climb as we drove up through banana and coffee plantations at the base of the big volcano. At the 6,000 ft Machame Gate to the park, we hopped out and got ready for walking. We were on the trail in perfect conditions at 10:40 AM. Freddy -one of our most experienced local guides- led the way and set the pace. We followed, marveling at the thick and lush forest. Eventually, in the early afternoon, cumulus clouds formed just above us and took away the sunlight that had been sneaking down through the foliage. The air got quite humid and although we were climbing steadily and getting into cooler air, we each did a fair bit of sweating. We took rest breaks each hour or so and in about five hours time we rolled into Machame Camp at nearly 10,000 ft. The team was a little amazed at how much work had been done by our support staff in building camp and making things comfortable and easy for our arrival. We enjoyed afternoon tea and ultimately Chef Tosha’s excellent dinner in the dining tent. The clouds cleared away and we came out to find a display of stars and moon and Milky Way that far exceeded the home view many of our team have access to. Day one went just fine in every way. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Move into Basecamp

We made it to the mountain! We got up this morning, had a last cafe breakfast in town, and loaded the YAZ vans for the trip to Elbrus-Northside Basecamp. The YAZ is the itinerant vehicle in rural Russia, and Mike Uchal's next car. Styled like a Volkswagen van, but diesel, four-wheel drive, with nothing but the basics inside, they are built to bounce, bump, splash, and grind their way over terrain, generally at what feels like a fair amount of speed. That's exactly what we did this morning. Our drivers Igor and Yuri deftly maneuvered us over the rough four-wheel drive track that leads to base camp. Upon our arrival, we quickly erected our small city of tents, went for a walk to stretch our legs, dodged into the tents to hide from a passing rain shower, and covered up a delicious dinner of chili. Tomorrow, we'll move a load of things up to the camp on the moraine at 12,000'. We'll be in touch afterwards! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons Summit!

After a week of training learning alpine mountaineering techniques preparing for future expeditions like Denali and Aconcagua, the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. The team had an early alpine start from Camp Schurman and worked their way up the Emmons glacier and are now standing on the summit of Mt. Rainier! They will spend some time on top enjoying the clear skies and views before starting the descent back to camp. Congratulations to today's Team!
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The link in my previous comment did not come through. It was a story about 2 women who did the Rainier Infinity Loop: Climb from Paradise to the summit, descend the Emmons Route to White River, run half the Wonderland Trail back to Paradise, summit and descend to White River again, and run the other half of the Wonderland Trail—a total of 130 miles and 40,000 vertical feet. They were hoping to beat the record of 59.4 hours but had to turn back on at Camp Muir on their second climb due to the storm on Saturday. They went back to Paradise, had a nap, and then headed back up, ultimately finishing the loop in just over 4 days, not a record but still amazing. It sounds like they descended the Emmons Route the second time on Monday, not Sunday as I said in my previous comment.

Posted by: Bruce Burger on 8/6/2019 at 10:09 pm

Congratulations to Chuck, Jaquelin, and everyone else!

Did you happen to see these women descending the Emmons route on Sunday? https://www-1.thenewstribune.com/news/local/article233548707.html

Posted by: Bruce Burger on 8/6/2019 at 9:50 pm


Mt. Rainier: August 6th - Summit!

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Casey Grom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reported beautiful clear skies, but breezy. They have started their descent and are working their way back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's team!
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Congratulations to our teammate, Hugh Gallagher, for making his Mt. Rainier summit this morning.  This was Hugh’s third summit bid on Rainier and first time to the top. In 2017, Hugh and a non-guided group made it to 12k ft before turning around due to low food/water supplies and leaving too late in the morning.  Earlier this summer on July 18 with RMI, our whole Tideworks Mountaineers team, and Climb For Clean Air (American Lung Association) team, we endured extreme weather on the Muir Snowfield which left us soaking wet making a summit a safety issue for hypothermia.  The conditions up top had also worsened with 45 mph winds and freezing temperatures.  Our lead guide Win Whittaker with 187 summits on Rainier stated “this is as bad as it gets” and called it without making it past Camp Muir 10,188’.  So we headed back to Paradise 5,400’ without getting the “icing on the cake” (what Win referred to as the summit).  Hugh was determined to make the summit this summer. And we’re so happy for him that he did.  Go HUGH!!!

Hugh is now the second Tideworks Mountaineer to summit Mt. Rainier with fellow teammate Mark Pengelly summiting yesterday morning with a different RMI team.  Tideworks Mountaineer, Steve Albert, will summit Aug. 23 making this is a very exciting summer for our team.

Congratulations to the entire team this morning!!!

Posted by: Tideworks Mountaineers on 8/6/2019 at 8:31 am


Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Ready to Launch

Our departure this morning was earlier than anyone wanted, but gave us plenty of time at the Moscow International Airport to sort out our numerous duffels, get everything checked, and have a quick breakfast and coffee before we boarded. The flight to Kislovodsk was uneventful (as they all should be), and soon we were blazing down the road in a minibus towards our hotel. While the team did some food shopping and relaxed, the guides made a trip to our outfitters to grab some stored gear. We got the special treatment, returning in a Russian jeep! We've had dinner, checked through our gear, and are ready for bed and a departure for the mountain tomorrow morning. Best, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team
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Good luck and we look forward to following the climb.  One question on the Russian truck, it appears to be held together by tape?

Posted by: wendy kolosar on 8/6/2019 at 9:27 am

Godspeed Pete and friends.
PS: Aconcagua + Rainier book in composition..
Fun reliving dat. To find a publisher now,,,,

Posted by: Waltero Glover on 8/6/2019 at 8:01 am


Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Packed and Ready

Today we woke to African birds singing in the trees and dik diks and monkeys roaming the garden-like grounds of our hotel. We got down to the business of preparing for tomorrow’s departure. But it was a leisurely business, to be sure. A morning meeting gave us the chance to get to know one another and to understand how we’ll tackle a 19,340 ft mountain together. A round of gear checks followed and the team then got into packing, sorting and organizing. We checked the weight of our bags after lunch and a bit of free time followed. Kilimanjaro broke through the clouds in early afternoon and many of the team climbed the observation tower on the hotel grounds to get a view. Some walked into the nearby village of Usa River to stretch their legs and some napped away the jet lag. We gathered for a fine dinner together and laughed through a few shared stories and misadventures. We’ve got the morning planned out -departure at eight, Kilimanjaro awaits. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Mt. Shuksan: Walter & Team Summit Via the Fisher Chimneys Route

RMI Guide Mike Walter and his team are on the summit of Mt. Shuksan. They climbed the Fisher Chimneys and then the southeast ridge to the summit. The team will descend back to their high camp to stay for the night. Congratulations to the team!
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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Summit Climb Reaches the Summit!

Our Five-Day Mt. Rainier Climb reached the summit this morning. RMI Guide Alan Davis called in from the crater rim and reported clear skies and a beautiful day of climbing. The team will descend back to Paradise this afternoon.
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Congratulations to the entire team! I’m so glad the weather cooperated and you had a beautiful day of climbing. Steve, we can’t wait to hear about the entire adventure when you get back!

-H, A & K

Posted by: Heidi on 8/5/2019 at 11:52 am

Congratulations to our teammate, Mark Pengelly, for making his Mt. Rainier summit this morning.  This was Mark’s second summit bid this summer since our July 18th summit bid was cut short due to extreme weather.  Mark is the first Tideworks Mountaineers to summit Mt. Rainier.  We have Hugh Gallagher summiting tomorrow morning and Steve Albert summiting Aug. 23.  This is an exciting summer for our team.

Congratulations to the entire team this morning!!!

Posted by: Tideworks Mountaineers on 8/5/2019 at 11:33 am

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