Entries from Expedition Dispatches
We slept in this morning... to the decadent hour of 7:00 AM. The idea was to let the majority of porter traffic get out ahead of us so as to reduce traffic jams on the route up the "
Great Barranco Wall". It was easy to go for the slow start in such a beautiful place. The morning light show as the sun found its way into our deep valley and the surface of the cloud sea below us was magical. We left camp at 9:30 and promptly found the traffic jam we’d hoped to avoid. The route begins with a system of rock ledges and small but steep scrambles so there are a number of natural "choke points". Generally we try to let porters have the right of way since they are balancing heavy loads on their heads and moving much faster than we will go. But it is high season and there were hundreds of porters and climbers tackling the wall at once. We waited on a few of the more spacious ledges and eventually made it to the more open middle sections of the wall (where the climbing is really just steady uphill hiking). It was a thrill to top out the wall and have the big views of Kibo and the hanging ice fields and glaciers above us. Then the hiking became routine and beautiful as we traversed under the mountain’s south side and came to the steep-sided Karanga Valley. It didn’t take us very long to go down one side and up the other to get to Karanga Camp at 2:00 PM. This camp is on a broad and open slope with unobstructed views of both the mountain above and the world around us. Mt. Meru, our 15,000 ft volcanic neighbor is prominent out to the West. Our afternoon followed a now familiar pattern, meals and naps interspersed. Coming out of the dining tent after dinner, we were all mesmerized by the stars above and the lights of Tanzania below.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
After a soggy morning of pushing through wet brush in the forest we emerged into the open slopes of Boston Basin. Our team setup camp in a beautiful location at about 5,600' in
Boston Basin. Grand views of the Boston Basin peaks and Johannesburg Mountain made for a beautiful sunset under mostly clear skies. A cloud layer has the valley socked in, but it is an overall perfect night higher up. Tomorrow we will be doing some training for the climb the following day. The team is in good spirits and generally happy to be surrounded by the rugged landscapes of the North Cascades.
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier
The
Four Day Climb August 6 -9 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by
RMI Guides Robby Young and Alan Davis. Robby reported a beautiful day with no winds and a great route. The team enjoyed some time on the summit before descending from the crater rim en route to Camp Muir. The teams will continue their descent to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Morning at 12,600 ft was cold and frosty... and beautiful from Shira Camp. Partway through our breakfast, the sun found its way over Kilimanjaro and warmed us right up. Conditions were perfect for walking when we set out at 8:20 AM. Our route took us directly in toward Kibo -Kilimanjaro’s towering central peak. The terrain was easier than the rocky narrow track we were on yesterday. This was gently rising, wide open juniper and sagebrush. Within a few hours we were breaking altitude records as we passed 14 and then 15,000 ft. At 15,200 ft we’d reached our goal, the Lava Tower. Clouds had come over, making us notice the cool air, but the weather wasn’t unpleasant, by any means. We sat for a good half hour, enjoying a fine lunch spread presented on a Maasai picnic blanket by our camp staff. Then we shifted gears and walked downhill for a couple thousand feet into the garden-like Barranco Valley full of Sceneccios and Lobelias. We pulled into camp at 3:20, making for seven hours and our biggest day yet. Then it was time to snack and rest and gaze up at tomorrow’s challenge... the Great Barranco Wall.
After dinner, our staff surprised Mike Winiarski with a perfectly prepared and presented birthday cake. The guys sang in English and Swahili as we all laughed and clapped along. Mike admitted that it was a birthday he wouldn’t soon forget.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
It was a perfect morning to move up to Camp 1! Bright, sunny skies greeted us as we crawled out of the tents, so we'r spent some time organizing what we would take up high and what we would leave. It's easy to think about a few days in camp 1 and start filling our backpacks with luxury items, but everything that comes up must go down. We cooked up a "very American breakfast" of fresh eggs, Tillamook cheddar, loaded into tortillas, and grabbed our packs to start the journey back up the tall that we familiarized ourselves with yesterday. Somehow, having seen it once, each stretch felt easier than yesterday, we walked a bit lighter, and before we knew it, we were pulling into camp.
The pattern from the last several afternoons changed today, and though clouds built at times, they dispersed and we stayed warm and most importantly, dry. We're looking at a bit of a training day tomorrow, but mostly a day to rest and acclimate after a few big days and a big jump in altitude.
RMI Guides Pete and Mike, and Team "all we've learned is the Russian word for hose"
RMI Guide Andy Bond and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached to summit of Mt. Rainier today. After two days of Technical Training, the team ascended the Kautz Route learning technical skills they moved up to their high camp on the mountain. Today the team put the skills to work and successfully climbed the challenging Kautz Ice Chute en route to the Summit. The team has started their descent and will spend another night on the mountain before returning to Rainier Basecamp.
Congratulations team!
The
Four Day Climb August 5 - 8 reached the summit around 5:30 AM today.
RMI Guides Mike King and JT Schmitt reported a cloud cap near the summit and moderate sustained winds. The teams are returning to Camp Muir and will continue their descent to Paradise later today.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
We awoke the first time this morning to the entrancing beats of Zivert, from songs of an intrepid hiker's boombox, at 4:30 am. A bit confused and groggy we fell asleep again, waking to bright sunshine at a much more reasonable hour, all wondering if we had imagined the 4:30 episode. After a breakfast spread and fresh artisan drip coffee seemed better than Starbucks by Abby, we packed up our packs with loads of food and climbing gear that we won't need until above Camp 1 and headed uphill to make our first steps towards the summit, get dinner off our weight up to the next camp, and accomplish some acclimatization as well.
Our sunshine lasted for about an hour and a half of walking, and by late morning, clouds had built above us and much of the mountain. It was cooler, and the occasional snowflake sifted down as we continued our upward progress. After just under five hours, we walked into
Camp 1, on the terminal moraine of the glacier. We made a quick cache, then turned and headed down, hoping to drop underneath the clouds. We managed to just around Mushroom Rocks, some unique formations that have been sculpted by wind, rain, snow, and time to resemble giant rock mushrooms. After pausing for photos and snacks, it was all ahead to base camp, impressed to have the weight off our backs and be able to move. We rounded out the evening with naps and a hearty pasta dinner. Our plan tomorrow, assuming the weather cooperates, is to move up to the huts at Camp 1.
Best,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team
On The Map
We were treated to another clear morning -above Machame Camp at least- there was a sea of clouds below, but that didn’t bother anybody. We enjoyed a 7:15 breakfast and by 8 AM we were ready for walking. John, the lead guide on our local staff, formally introduced us to the fifty man team of porters, cooks, tent builders, waiters and guides helping to get us up
Kilimanjaro. The team sent us off with a song as everybody clapped and danced along.
The trail started out immediately more steep and rugged than yesterday’s route. We gained altitude quickly in a forest of giant heather. Ultimately we reached a ridge crest and followed it for several hours, still steadily gaining height. The final hour involved a traverse out to the left where the hike became a mild scramble requiring good hand and footholds on the rock. We reached a high point at around 12,900 ft as we turned a corner onto the Shira Plateau and then it was an easy downhill stroll into camp at 12,600 ft. We reached
Shira Camp near 1:00 in the afternoon and so had most of the afternoon for resting, eating and drinking. As with yesterday, things clouded up by midday and this time we had brief rain showers in the afternoon, which just made it a little easier to nap inside the tents. The clouds melted away by evening and we were treated to a fine sunset and great views of 15,000 ft Mt. Meru off on the western horizon.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
After two days spent on the mountain the Five Day Climb reached to summit of Mt. Rainier early today. RMI Guide Jess Matthews called in as the team was on the descent. The team has had great weather while on the mountain, and everyone has climbed strong. They will return to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations team!
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Thanks again for for the experience! Not all the way to the top for me, but still an unbelievable view and great challenge. You guys are professional, empathetic, and caring of your clients, and one couldn’t ask for anything more. I’ll be back for the challenge, and we’ll get it done.
Thanks,
Tony.
Posted by: Anthony Brune on 8/12/2019 at 5:53 pm
Have you guys made it back to Paradise? It’s almost 9pm.
Posted by: Paige Cline on 8/9/2019 at 7:37 pm
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