Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Yesterday, ALL TEAM MEMBERS AND GUIDES reached the summit of Cayambe around 6am EST. For those of us living in or around Seattle, we felt accomplished having completed such a hard activity before we would normally even be awake. Most climbers were back to the refugio by about 8am, a very speedy descent. Route conditions were ideal on Cayambe, when you would step out of the trail it was just a light dusting of snow on top of a supportable crust, meaning there was very little plunging, and the crampons would bite into the hard surface during the cold night. Although the route is in great shape, this is always a challenging mountain. At 18,500’ the route ascends a steep headwall for about 300 vertical feet before passing through crevassed terrain. Additionally, sleeping above 15,000’ for two nights and then going to nearly 19,000’ on day seven of an expedition is a quick jump in altitude and everyone seemed to handle it well. Now we turn our sights towards Antisana.
On our way to Antisana we are staying in two different haciendas. Last night we were at the rustic Guachala, which was built in the early 1500s. It has it’s charm and is steeped in local history; we also enjoyed a quiet dinner and breakfast under the watchful eye of the two house dogs, always hoping for a scrap. This morning we packed up and got ourselves closer to Antisana. We are using the beautiful yard at Casa Ilayaku to learn skills for our next climb (tent setup and running belays) as well as more expedition skills for future endeavors. Tomorrow we will go to Antisana basecamp via 4x4 vehicles and spend the night in tents before taking our shot at the summit.
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier
We awoke to another beautiful and clear morning, perfect for our active rest day. After enjoying some street tacos and meeting with our local guide we hopped back in the van to travel to Paso de Cortez. From here our team left the van to walk to La Joya- our camp for the night. Along the trail we soaked in the sun and surrounding nature. It was relaxing compared to our long climb yesterday! Tonight, we trade the comforts of hotels for tents as we prepare for our ascent to High Camp tomorrow.
Posted by: Ben Luedtke, Hannah Smith, Daniel May
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,200'
Hola amigos!
This morning we bid farewell to our fellow RMI team as they headed back down the Relinchos Valley, one day closer to civilization. We on the other hand shouldered our heavy packs and began our move to Camp 1 at 16,000ft. Blue skies and a light breeze accompanied the team up toward camp. We arrived in good style, feeling and looking good, happy to be making our way to the upper mountain. The night ended with our very own high altitude rendition of Pad Thai. The sun dipped below the ridgeline, the wind picked up, and we all took the cue and retreated to our warm sleeping bags. An early night's rest will do wonders for our carry to camp 2 (Guanacos 3) tomorrow!
Cheers!
RMI Guides Hannah, Ben, Dan and the team
Hey Hannah! Best wishes for Strength and perfect weather for your climb!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/17/2023 at 8:15 am
How excited you must all be!
Posted by: Peter Darasz on 1/17/2023 at 5:25 am
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 18,997'
100% summit success on Cayambe!
The team is now looking forward to a day of rest and relaxation before heading towards Antisana.
Photos and a more interesting blog forthcoming
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier
That is SO Awesome Dustin!! Congratulations to you and your team!!!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/17/2023 at 8:12 am
Ahh!!! That’s amazing! Congratulations, everyone! <3 So appreciative of the blog updates :)
Posted by: Hannah on 1/16/2023 at 8:40 pm
The team had an early start to the day, leaving Mexico City and driving to our acclimatization hike.
We began our ascent at 10,000 feet, weaving our way through the forest until we were greeted with a view of the snowy North face of La Malinche. Despite the snow up high, it was a beautiful and warm day to stretch our legs.
Our team had a successful summit of La Malinche (14,640 feet) that was made perfect by views of Ixta, Orizaba and even an erupting Popo.
Spirits are high as we prepare for Ixta in the coming days!
-RMI Guide Abby Westling and Team
Looks amazing
Posted by: Nancy Elser on 1/16/2023 at 9:08 am
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Ben Luedtke, Daniel May
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
Good evening readers,
After a high effort day of carrying to Camp One, the team enjoyed our last rest day at Basecamp. cups of coffee were enjoyed as the sun warmed up camp. Today was a leisure day. Time was spent watching TV shows, reading books, chatting with teammates, and showers. We also sorted gear for the move to Camp One. We don't want to be too heavy when we head back downhill, so luxury items like sweatpants, jeans, sweatshirts, need to stay behind.
A highlight of the day was welcoming the other RMI team back to Basecamp. We got useful information about the route and conditions and now feel ready to have our go at the upper mountain. Tomorrow, we say bye to the wonderful basecamp staff that have been taking good care of us and move to Camp One.
We are ready and excited to progress up this mountain.
Adios,
RMI Guides Hannah, Ben, Dan, and Team
We love seeing your photos and updates. As you approach 22,000+ ft, all of us in Ann Arbor (861 ft at our house) are cheering for you and wishing the team our best. Have fun!
Posted by: Janice Lieberman on 1/16/2023 at 11:26 am
Posted by: Mike King, Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
We had a windy and cold morning to break camp down and descend to Basecamp. The team rallied and now we are enjoying some snacks, drinks and packing for mules. Tomorrow we’ll walk to Pampa las Lenas for an asado and night under the stars if the weather cooperates. The end of a great expedition to Aconcagua.
This is our last dispatch, thanks for following along.
RMI Guides Mike King, Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney & Team
Posted by: Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Welcome to our Mexico's Volcanoes blog, where we will keep our friends, family and pets up to date on our travels and climbs.
The team arrived in Mexico City today!
It was a sunny and warm day to explore the city and all it offers. Friendly locals, good food and lots of history. The team stretched their legs after traveling with walks around the city and Chapultepec Park, which provided shade and quiet.
Tonight we prepare and rest for our acclimitization hike tomorrow where our adventure really begins!
RMI Guide Abby Westling and Team
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Ben Luedtke, Daniel May
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,400'
We woke to another brisk morning. The sun slowly creeps down the mountain. Once it hits the dome tent, everything/everyone warms up.
Today we made progress up the mountain. We sorted our gear to carry all the group food, fuel, kitchen items, our mountain snacks, and upper mountain equipment. Without doing carries, our packs would be far too heavy. Carries also help with acclimatization. With our heavy packs ready and the sun shining, we made our way to 16,400'. The team did great maneuvering through the moon scape like terrain. A final steep hill brought us into Camp One. We unloaded our packs and pile everything against a rock. We will be reunited with this gear on Monday when we leave the comforts of basecamp. After hanging at Camp One for 30 minutes letting our bodies exist at this altitude, we made quick work getting back to Basecamp where we were greeted with pizza and treats.
One final day resting at basecamp tomorrow and getting ready for our move up to Camp One tomorrow. RMI's First Aconcagua team comes down from 19k camp after a successful summit yesterday. It will be nice to see familiar faces and hear about their trip. The sun has disappeared so it’s time for the sleeping bag and tent.
Goodnight all,
RMI Guides Hannah, Ben, Dan, and team
Say hello to Rob French and his brother as well. Cheers. I really enjoy the updates.
Posted by: Terry Reilly on 1/17/2023 at 10:16 am
Sounds incredible - cheering you all on from London!❤️
Posted by: Kiki French on 1/15/2023 at 10:21 am
Posted by: Mike King, Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 22,841'
Saturday, January 14, 2023 1:07 PM PT
We awoke early in the morning to chilly temps and moderate winds. Our summit bid had begun! It took several hours of slogging uphill before the sun finally blessed us with its presence. The rest of the climb was warm and the summit itself was windless!
The descent was smooth and exhausting. Everyone is back in camp safe and sound. Tomorrow we begin to descend into thicker air.
RMI Guides Mike King, Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney and Team
Saturday, January 14, 2023 9:30 AM PT
The Team stood on the summit of Aconcagua at 22,841' today! All is well, and we will share more details of our climb when we get back to camp!
RMI Guide Mike King
Good Job A! We’re so happy for you and Mike and the whole crew! I new you could do it! Love You! Uncle.
Posted by: Kim Peltier on 1/15/2023 at 9:11 am
Way to go team! Feeling proud and nostalgic as we watch this blog from Vermont. #LLLL. Hope you felt those vibes all the way to the top.
With love and admiration - the Wilhelms
Posted by: T and B from Vermont on 1/15/2023 at 6:40 am
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Hey Dustin and Team! This is all Great to hear. Keep looking up! All the best to you!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/18/2023 at 3:20 am
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