Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Andy Bond, Ellison Boord, George Hedreen, Bryan Mazaika, Keeley Rideout, Michael Murray
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Our Five Day Climb May 28 - 1 June, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Bryan Mazaika. Andy reported a beautiful climb this morning without any winds. The route is very direct and the teams training over the last few days set them up well for the climb.
The photo was taken by Andy on their ascent at around 13,300'. The teams will return to Camp Muir and repack then continue their descent to Paradise.
They will conclude their program this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
Tuesday, May 31, 2022 - 10:08 pm PT
We woke up to a beautiful morning at 14,000' Camp and decided to move to 17,000'! The team did well and the forecast looks good for tomorrow. Stay tuned to see what we get up to tomorrow!
RMI Guides JT, Jackson, Matias and the RMI team
Exciting news! Thanks as always for the updates - sending lots of high-altitude best wishes!
Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 6/1/2022 at 8:38 am
Fantastico! Hola from Spain and best of luck on the summit push!
Posted by: Caleb on 6/1/2022 at 8:14 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Mike King, Dominic Cifelli
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 19,348'
Tuesday, May 31, 2022 - 6:39 pm PT
This day won’t be forgotten soon by our team. It was longer than most, to begin with. We were drinking coffee at 10:30 PM and loading the buses at 11. The rough road took us plenty high, but then we were out and trudging uphill by headlight for hours. It was cold and a little breezy, but we were looking at stars… and Jupiter and Neptune. We stopped in a hut long enough to put on helmets and harnesses and then marched up to the snow, where we donned crampons and ropes. The walking got easier on the snow, except it was all getting to the kind of heights that are just plain hard to climb and breathe in. We transitioned onto a glacier, still in pitch darkness. By daybreak the team had reached above 18,000 ft. All of the magnificent volcanoes of Ecuador were lined up for our viewing pleasure. There were plenty of clouds at different levels but it was evident that we were going to get lucky. Things steepened for the final 800 ft to make the team dig down deep for energy. But by 8:40 the gang was on the summit of Cotopaxi at 19,347 ft. 13 of our 18 climbers made the top, along with 6 of our excellent Ecuadorian guiding staff. The team was back at the lodge by midday and packing for departure. By 2 PM we were in our buses and headed for the jets. Now -at 6:30 PM- we’re high over Cuba, pointed toward Miami and a celebration on the water. A big day indeed, much of our team shattered personal altitude records and found inner strength they hadn’t imagined.
Best Regards
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 20,310'
Summit Day Recap - Monday, May 30, 2022
Things were clear and calm this morning and it looked the perfect day to go for the summit. We fired stoves early, ate breakfast as the sun rose on camp, and packed our bags. We left for the Autobahn, a long ascending traverse from 17,000' Camp to Denali pass at 18,000'. To get there, we walked back into the morning shade which kept things chilly, but overall really pleasant. From Denali Pass, we climbed past Zebra rocks, still warm and pleasant and in the sun now. As we rounded the Arch Deacons Tower, the wind caught us. Probably 15-20 mph, but biting. We covered our faces and continued on. We were able to get a bit of respite from it on the Football Field, and up Pig Hill. The summit ridge had plumes streaming over it and it was touch and go whether we would be able to traverse the last piece of terrain. We tried and the initial piece was windy, but we were able to move through it and as we crossed over the ridge we got some protection. We summitted at 5:15pm, tagged the top and took a couple hasty photos, before heading back down.
Tomorrow we will pack camp and start moving towards the air strip. We'll stop to sleep for a few hours at 11,000' or the base of Ski Hill and then be in Base camp to hopefully catch rides back to civilization the following morning.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
Congrats to all !!
Carl, maybe Aconcagua next?
Posted by: Ron Jackson on 6/2/2022 at 3:30 pm
Congratulations to Matt and the rest of the team!
Posted by: Tucker M on 6/1/2022 at 7:00 am
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Monday, May 30, 2022 - 10:43 pm PT
Today we rested again at 14,000' Camp. The team has been soaking up the rest, eating lots of food and drinking plenty of fluids. Thanks for following along and we will keep you posted on what we end up doing tomorrow!
Thanks,
RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.
Hi JT Schmitt I am your Great Aunt who lives on a farm by Cresco Iowa. Your Granddad Joe is my brother. I am so happy to beable to keep in touch with you way up in the air. I will stay where it is nice and warm. The farming is going good for the farmers around here. Crops all in and growing. I hope to see you in august this year. Hope is works out. Just want to say Hello from Iowa. auntie Joyce PS Be safe you and the rest of the climbers
Posted by: joyce mrachek on 5/31/2022 at 5:28 pm
Rest well. Exciting days ahead!
Posted by: Amy Houston on 5/31/2022 at 8:08 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Mike King, Dominic Cifelli
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 12,300'
Today was nice and easy… a chance to sip coffee and stare at the big volcano out the window. It changed every few minutes, with clouds and light increasing, decreasing and doing just what clouds and light always do.
We took it easy to enhance our acclimatization and to prepare for tonight’s climb. There was a small and easy training and gear session out in the grass. But that was balanced by naps and meals.
We’re ready! Awake in just a few hours for our Alpine start.
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 30, 2022 - 2:40 pm PT
Happy Memorial Day. After a few early mornings, we finally got to "sleep in". Waking up as the sun hit our tents, we were all drinking coffee and making breakfast burritos by 8:30 am. With clear skies above, and the cloud deck sitting right below 11 Camp we loaded up our empty packs and sleds to head downhill into the cloud to grab our cache. After a few short minutes downhill, we filled our packs and sleds back up with the gear and food we had left. The short uphill went by quickly compared to the last few days, and it felt good to shake out the legs before spending the rest of the day resting.
Tomorrow we begin this whole process again, with hopes to cache somewhere above Windy Corner. Until then we will be resting, napping and snacking at camp.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team
Can you post the itinerary of the proposed climb? Love to envision where you all are, on the glacier. Be safe.
Posted by: Emigh Litch on 5/31/2022 at 1:06 pm
Posted by: Grayson Swingle, Charlie Harrison, Mira Schoeberlein, Dustin Wittmier, Tatum Whatford, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,400'
The Five Day Climb May 26 - 30 led by RMI Guides Grayson Swingle and Dustin Wittmier were turned around by avalanche danger this morning near 11,400'. The team safely returned to Camp Muir they reported blue skies above and a cloud deck below around 7,000'. The teams left from Camp Muir just after 9 am on their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Mike King, Dominic Cifelli
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 18,818'
Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 6:33 pm PT
Today we climbed Iliniza Norte to it’s quite pointy summit at 18,818 ft. The entire group made the top in a mere two and a half hours from the hut. We began at 6:30 AM in partly cloudy conditions. It was a little cold and windy at first, on icy and slippery rock and dirt, but things improved. We got amazing views of Cotopaxi and Iliniza Sur, but the rugged rock scrambling required to get up Iliniza Norte kept us well focused on the task at hand. We hit the top at 9 AM and spent 30 minutes before beginning a careful descent. The team moved well, with excellent help from our local guide staff, and we were at the base of the mountain by midday.
We enjoyed a celebratory steak lunch at a restaurant on the way to Cotopaxi National Park and then made our way uphill and into the park to the Tambopoxi Lodge. Clouds cleared from the mountain at sunset and we had amazing views of our big objective of the next few days.
Best Regards,
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 10:27 pm PT
Unlike two days ago, when we woke up there wasn't a hint of wind in sight. We had word from Mike Walter's team that the weather at 17,000' was perfect to, so we launched out of 14,000' Camp in high spirits. It was one of the most pleasant days I can remember on the West Buttress. Temps were comfortable, no wind, and the views unparalleled. It's also some of the most fun climbing. We were at camp by early afternoon, set up tents, fired an early dinner, and congratulated Mike's team as they came back from the summit. Things look really good for us tomorrow, so fingers crossed, we'll make our push in the morning.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
C’mon team! Can’t wait to read the post about the summit! Wishing you good weather and strength. Molta força!
Posted by: Anna P on 5/31/2022 at 5:43 am
Congratulations on getting to 17k! I’m so excited for your hopeful push tomorrow. We’re all pulling for you, sending you positive thoughts and intentions. Keep reaching towards your goals, be safe, be amazing!
Posted by: Patrick Schmitz on 5/30/2022 at 8:19 pm
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Congratulations guys!! you did it! Looking forward to our climb on July 5th!! I hope the weather will allow us to reach the top as well.
Rich
Posted by: richard philippides on 6/12/2022 at 11:15 pm
It was one of great experience to hike Mt. Rainier. Thanks a lot to RMI for providing all the support.
Special thanks to all guides Bryan, Andy, Michael, Keely, George and Ellison, with you guys we will not have great experience. Thanks for providing all the training and taking care all of us (like family member). Looking forward to have more expeditions with you guys.
Also thanks to all expedition members, learned lot from you guys.
Posted by: Umesh Patel on 6/3/2022 at 2:23 pm
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