Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Gorum & Remaining Team Move Back to High Camp

June 8, 2019

Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

Saturday, June 8, 2019 - 7:39 PM PT Guess who’s back? We are. We’re back at High Camp. A place I never really thought I would find myself twice over the course of one Denali trip. The Precision Strike Summit Team (PSST) made quick work of the move back up here. We are a well oiled machine by now. Other teams yell various commands when passing anchors on the fixed lines: “stop!” “go!” “climbing!” “what?” “did you say go?” “huh?!” We climb in silence now, like panthers, sure of each others actions without having to verbalize them. We made it to 17,000' Camp and moved right back in to our old tent platforms, so that made things efficient. We’re currently all chilling out in the tents, rehydrating, and waiting for dinner. The views are great, but we’ve already spent four days looking at them, so nobody is terribly preoccupied at this point. Here’s hoping tomorrow is another calm, clear day. RMI Guide JM Gorum

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Get all Gear to 11,200’ Camp

June 8, 2019

Posted by: Mike King, Avery Parrinello, Dominic Cifelli

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Saturday, June 8, 2019 - 3:42 PM PT We had our first active rest day today. The weather forecast called for a calm night with increasing clouds and possible precipitation through the day. The air was still when I woke at 5 am to check the weather. After a salmon and cream cheese bagel breakfast we set off down hill with our sleds strapped to our backpacks. The goal was to carry all of our cache from 9300’ to 11,200’. The Team did exceptionally well and we managed to beat the heat of the morning for all but the last hour. The afternoon clouds are coming into camp and creating a greenhouse effect where the UV comes through the clouds and reflects off the snow then gets bounced back by the clouds making for a hot day in camp. People have their sleeping bags clipped on the outside of the tent for a more ideal napping environment. So long as the weather continues this pattern we will wake early and carry food and fuel around Windy Corner in preparation for our camp move to 14,200’ in Genet Basin. Even though we have been moving lots of weight up the glacier for four days, the Team is happy and enjoying the beautiful scenery here on Denali. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

It sounds like an amazing experience. Please tell Allan Oliver and all the team that we’re following this. Huge adventure and bagels, cream cheese and salmon for breakfast! You all deserve a great climb and descent. We’re cheering for you.

Posted by: Stephanie and John Smith on 6/10/2019 at 3:15 pm

Great job everyone!! Keep kicking ass!! Hope you all are enjoying to the fullest

Posted by: Meagan Jones on 6/9/2019 at 12:14 pm

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Denali Expedition: Gorum and Team Create a Game Plan

June 8, 2019

Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

At high camp, I had a dream about eating cheesy hash browns and eggs. This morning, that dream became a reality. We ate breakfast burritos, lunch burritos, and dinner burritos. We lived a life of luxury that was not possible at 17,000 feet. We also came up with a plan for the coming days.Tomorrow, half the group will walk out towards base camp and a flight towards Talkeetna. The rest of us will stay here at 14 just in case we have a summit window within the next few days. The forecast is calling for light winds this weekend, which has us hopeful. Regardless of what happens, we will certainly be eating more burritos. RMI Guide JM Gorum and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Love to muh sunshine:)

Posted by: Jennifer Adams on 6/8/2019 at 10:01 pm

Food sounds tasty! I’m glad I won’t be in the tent with anyone who loaded on the beans. Lol! Glad some of you are able to stay and try. Here’s to great weather. Nice photo of excellent ice cutting shelter. Go, go, go! But, step safe

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/8/2019 at 5:10 pm

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Denali Expedition: Young and Team Retrieve Cache at Windy Corner

June 8, 2019

Posted by: Robby Young, Nick Scott, Joe Hoch

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 7, 2019 10:18 PM PT Greetings all! A beautiful sunny day, finally! We woke to sun and were only interrupted by some quick snow showers during the dinner hour. We were able to fully complete our move to 14k Camp this morning by heading back down and retrieving our cache at Windy Corner at 13.200’. We were up and at em early and were back at Camp a little after noon, in time to nap and rest, and finish up our day with some fixed line practice. Tomorrow, we’ll rest! It’s an important rest day as we continue our acclimatization process in preparation for our future travels to upper reaches of this grandiose mountain. We’ve got big plans for big meals, big naps, and possibly a trip to take in the views at the ‘Edge of the World’. We’ll report back and tell you all about it tomorrow! Til then, good night! Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Pebble Beach

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Steve, It’s great to follow along. I wish you guys the best and stay safe. See you when you get back my friend. .

Posted by: Al on 6/10/2019 at 10:50 am

Stevie

We hope you make it to the top of the mountain. We hope you will have enough food and get lots of rest. We hope you make it down the mountain safe. We miss you a lot and we love you!

Love Grace and Lucy

Posted by: Grace and Lucy on 6/9/2019 at 7:30 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 8th Teams Reach the Top of the Cleaver

June 8, 2019

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,800'

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Hannah Smith reached the top of Disappointment Cleaver before winter like conditions and a snow loaded trail forced them to turn. Mike reported that the team is on the descent just reaching Ingraham Flats en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wow, what an experience!

Posted by: Deb Scholey on 6/9/2019 at 4:39 pm

Hard to predict weather. But, y’all have good sense and used it. Congratulations on your accomplishment! You did far more than I could have. Step safe

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/8/2019 at 11:04 pm

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 11,200’ Camp

June 7, 2019

Posted by: Mike King, Avery Parrinello, Dominic Cifelli

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Friday, June 7, 2019 - 7:17 PM PT We woke up to a calm and clear morning. The air was significantly warmer at the 4:30 am wake up call. A perfect day to get camp packed up and moved to 11,200’. The Team has seen all but the last three hours during our cache day. Leaving the snowshoes on our sleds we climbed up the Kahiltna glacier in crampons and made excellent time. Our goal was to beat any afternoon thunderstorms that had been rolling over Kahiltna Pass the last few afternoons. We pulled into camp shortly after 1 pm feeling the altitude and heavy pack/sled combo. I can hear some snoring from some as they nap in the heat of their tents. Others are reading and organizing their gear. Everyone in this group is doing well with the heavy loads and rapid swings in weather. Tomorrow we will get an early start so we can retrieve our cache at 9,300’ and then the remainder of the day will be our first “active rest” day. Light clouds are moving into camp but we still have great views of Kahiltna Dome and the West Buttress of Denali, the namesake of our climbing route. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Gorum and Team Move Back to 14,000’

June 7, 2019

Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 6, 2019 11:56 PM PT We woke up this morning and looked uphill at the summit again. We watched as winds increased up high. We watched a few teams leave camp and turn around before Denali pass. We looked at our dwindling food. We looked at our rapidly filling poop cans. When we added it all up, we decided that it was time to leave high camp. Four nights at 17,000 feet can seem like an icy eternity, but the team actually managed it quite well. There was nothing in the forecast that made us want to stay any longer, so we left. We’re back at 14 camp now, which seems like a beach resort in comparison. Some folks have decided they have had their fill, and some want to sit it out for a few more days, potentially trying again. Tomorrow we will flesh out our options and make a plan. For now, we are excited for the best nights sleep we’ve had in a while. We’re excited to eat something other than freeze dried food. We’re excited to be able to wear fewer than three jackets to bed. RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wise choice given the conditions you described. For those who want to try again, I hope you make it. Stay warm, and step safe. What a beautiful photo!

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/7/2019 at 9:24 pm

Whatever choice you make, you’ve accomplished so much Brittni (and everyone else!). Diligently checking the blog daily; sunny Colorado is rooting for you!

Posted by: Kate Holmes on 6/7/2019 at 7:13 pm

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Denali Expedition: Young & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 7, 2019

Posted by: Robby Young, Nick Scott, Joe Hoch

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 6, 2019 10:06 PM PT Greetings from 14,000’! For the first time all trip, the weather was better than forecasted! We took full advantage early this morning, walking into the clouds for only a brief time before we were basking in the sun above 12,000’. It was a smooth move day up here to 14 Camp. We arrived early afternoon with plenty of time to completely set up camp, take naps, and then indulge in a veggie curry dinner. It was great to see our RMI friends JM and company as well as a plethora of other guides from other walks of life. It’s truly a city of friends up here at 14 Camp and our team is ecstatic to be here, especially given the squirrelly weather we’ve had over the last week. We’re all in the sleeping bags now, as it gets cold quickly up here; but we’re amped and ready to go back and pick up our windy corner cache tomorrow morning and be reunited with all of delicious lunch food and larger huge variety of meals. We’ll keep you posted on our progress. Robby, Nick, Joe and Team ‘Clean Plate Club’

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So glad weather improved! Good luck all! Step safe

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/7/2019 at 9:18 pm

Baldock…. go get it! DAs Office following you guys up!

Posted by: Marja on 6/7/2019 at 4:20 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reaches 12,500’

June 7, 2019

Posted by: Eric Frank, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,500'

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Bryan Mazaika reached the Camp Comfort head-wall at 12,500' and were turned due to weather. Eric reported fresh snow on the route and 15 - 30 mph winds. The team is en route back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great climb and fantastic views.
Brian, Ross and Abby were real professional guides on the mountain.

Next time I’ll definitely make sure I have more gas in my tank.
I may have tapped out if we didn’t turn around due to weather, not sure, but each time the slope leveled out I seemed to get a second wind.

Trip was everything expected and then some.

Again, thanks to our guides for a safe trip.

P.S. I still owe Wesley and Vicky a beer for borrowing the carabiner.

Vicky, if you have the pic you took of me and my son Wes, I’d love to receive that via email, along with other great shots you may have, like the sunrise in the clouds.

Great climbing with you all.

Fred
(the old guy)

Posted by: Fred Whiting on 6/11/2019 at 11:00 am

Safe travels on the way down! Great job guys!

Posted by: Christina Rydbeck on 6/7/2019 at 11:25 am

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Supplies at 9,300

June 6, 2019

Posted by: Mike King, Avery Parrinello, Dominic Cifelli

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Thursday, June 6, 2019 - 5:04 PM PT There was a light breeze that rattled the tents last night. The first few nights away from a comfortable bed can be an adjustment. The Team woke to a cold and mostly clear morning. We pumped the brakes a bit to let the air warm up and see what the clouds were doing North of us in the interior. After breakfast the clouds lifted and we launched to take advantage of the clear skies before forecasted thunderstorms and snow arrived. Our route to the cache at 9,300’ takes us up Ski Hill (it’s got the grade of a ski hill) and along the flanks of Kahiltna Dome. The pack loads are heavy but the Team handled it with mostly smiles while taking the time to enjoy the scenic down glacier vistas. We have to cache our food and fuel in the snow so ravens do not dig it up, this typically requires a 1 meter deep hole. We are back in a white out at 7800’ Camp hanging in tents enjoying the solar and having some lunch. Tomorrow we hope to get clear skies and a cold/early start to beat the weather into 11,200’ Camp. Thanks for following along. Everyone is healthy and happy. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Following the blog. Have an amazing time and stay safe, enjoy the adventure
Love marie

Posted by: Marie Pope on 6/7/2019 at 1:55 pm

We’re following you and your team. What an amazing adventure! The photos are gorgeous. Stay safe and have a fantastic time!

Posted by: Stephanie Smith on 6/7/2019 at 4:38 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Gorum & Remaining Team Move Back to High Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Get all Gear to 11,200’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Gorum and Team Create a Game Plan

Denali Expedition: Young and Team Retrieve Cache at Windy Corner

Mt. Rainier: June 8th Teams Reach the Top of the Cleaver

Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 11,200’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Gorum and Team Move Back to 14,000’

Denali Expedition: Young & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reaches 12,500’

Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Supplies at 9,300

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